kmmcrafts

Guess you just taught me something new.. I didn't know the Pegas was marked? I may need to look closer at them? or maybe putting my glasses on.. Gotta say though.. the first two years on my scroll sawing.. I didn't even know there was a right side up on blades... In fact.. when it got dull on one end.. I just flipped ends and sawed with the other end until it got dull.. You might find it funny.. but if a blade is really dull and I'm almost done with my project.. I sometimes will still put in the opposite end just to finish the last bit.. LOL.. doesn't matter to me.. as long as it's sharp and cuts..

Me Too... Two Dodge Cummins trucks and two gas trucks two mini vans.. all Dodge.. Oh forgot.. we have a Jeep too. and a Chevy blazer.. Yeah too many cars.. but there is 5 drivers in my family too.. I use to be a Ford guy until the last one I owned had transmission issues and come to find out.. they don't put any filter in it and they expect to have to replace them at about 100,000 miles. LOL.. only way to service it is to pull it out of the car and split the case on the bench to get to the filter.. Kinda like repairing a DeWalt scroll saw... you gotta take it all apart before you can see whats wrong with it,, Throw away stuff you know..

Has nothing to do with whether it can cut it or not.. my Hawks cut 3/4" + flawlessly.. but the cutting speed or aggression is like watching paint dry compared to cutting with the short parallel link arms that the dewalt Ex style saws have.. and one gets used to that cutting style of chomping through the wood at a slightly faster rate.. then going to a saw like the Hawk with the longer arms.. It gives you that slow down feeling.. that most hobbyist do not feel because they don't have a care in the world about time / money etc and the profits.. The slow down feeling is that same feeling of driving on the expressway at 70 for 6 hours. then come into a town where you have to drive 30-40.. you feel like you're barely moving.. It also is the difference in the thickness you are used to cutting.. If you always cut thick hard wood.. try using the same blades and saw speed to cut 1/8".. you're not used to it and are like whoa.. slow down a bit or vise versa... cut thin wood and then go to thick wood it's like.. dang this is taking forever.. Like you said.. you can either drive a Chevy or Push a Ford..

I totally understand the thinking on buying DeWalts.. rather than the high end saws... I've only cut a handful of puzzles... Cut some on my Dewalt some on my Hawks.. then some on my Excalibur.. I have my Excalibur blade aggressiveness set up to be not at the minimum but pretty darn close to it.. If I were cutting primarily puzzles.. you couldn't give me a Hawk to do it.. Sorry Hawk guys including myself.. but the Hawk isn't made for doing that kind of production.. Precision YES.. The short parallel link armed saws are some aggressive cutters.. cutting thick wood..and trying to do it to make money and be competitive with other sellers price ranges etc.. I wouldn't own a Hawk or Hegner for this type of work.. Just not a fast enough cutting saw... Quality built saws.. just wouldn't be my choice for this type of work.. Yes they could do this for years.. compared to the lower end saws... but I'd rather replace a saw and knock out more puzzles than use the same saw for 20 years and only do 3/4 of the amount of production a year.. when talking that kind of money and whatnot over a years time.. that new Dewalt every year just make $$ sense to me... Most do not understand this because they don't do production cutting even though they may do a lot of cutting... you're not pushing the limits to get stuff made and to put that $$ in your pocket.. I have experience in all the mentioned saws other than the Hegner.. and I don't think it's long arm design is going to be a aggressive cutting saw like the DeWalt.. The Excalibur in my mind is nothing more than a glorified DeWalt.. made the same way same open bearing design.. really not much different other than the saw head tilts rather than the table.. useless for puzzles... the only other advantage is being able to turn the motor to change the cutting aggressiveness.. don't see the value in one for the extra $$ just for cutting puzzles..

Also agree with Ray.. all of my saws other than my DeWalt was bought from facebook marketplace and or craigslist... most expensive saw was the still new boxed Hawk 226VS Ultra.. paid $400 for that.. $360 for my new still boxed Excalibur EX21 and $100 for my Hawk 220VS.. so for less than a new Hawk.. I bought three saw all higher end saws.. That said.. If you really want new.. ( I love to buy new now and then and understand how the feel of being able to return the saw no questions asked too) I wouldn't be scared to buy the Delta.. In fact when I started my hunt for a back-up saw.. I was seriously looking at the Delta.. until I found that first $100 Hawk. then the second popped up even though I wasn't really looking.. couldn't pass it up.. being new in the box.. then the EX showed up.. now I don't need any new / used saws for quite a long time I don't think.. The Delta saw I feel is a good saw..and I do think the parts are pretty much the same as DeWalt.. I'd buy the Delta in a heartbeat if I was looking for new and on a budget.. even though I don't like the NEW delta company as they do seem to discontinue parts and do things I don't think is really right.. seems to be the way most companies these days are..

We almost always go out shopping.. They've made the deals too easy for them to have the real crazy crowds.. because use to be black Friday was one day.. now you have pre-black Friday small business Saturday and cyber Monday.. then there is just the plain ol internet shopping.. deals can be found with a little digging most any time of the year.. My wife wanted to get one of thse robot vacuums.. she waited in line in the cold to get one only to have them sold out before she got into the store where they was.. she was bummed about it.. They was at the Kohls store.. when we got home and later in the night mentioned how disappointed that she couldn't get one.. I got on Kohls website at 11:30pm and they had the same deal online as the stupid door buster deal.. why go out in the crowds when the same deals are online.. Yes there are deals you can't get online.. but mostly stupid little things like phone chargers and cables and just little things.. most can be found on ebay with free shipping anytime of the year, LOL. The crowds are getting to be less and less appealing to us now that the kids are bigger and don't really want little toys.. that seems to be the biggest deals.. the electronic deals.. they are online too..

I've notice that temperature and humidity swings plays a role in how easy the stuff comes off.. I've had projects that the shelf liner was on for several months..peeled right off.. same shelf liner roll on another project around the same time frame just cooler temps came off harder than heck.. had to use the heat gun on it as the sun wasn't out and was rainy.. these couple of projects I applied the liner to the same day same roll.. and both had sat dang near a year.. I just did the cutting a couple weeks ago.. on both.. I don't know what it could be if it wasn't something with the rain or temps..or both.. because they both was applied to BB ply too.. nothing was different other than the temp / rain.. when I went to peel it off

I hope everyone has a wonderful family and fun filled Thanksgiving..

That's great!! Not surprising to me though as I've seen the wonderful work you do.. Congrats..

Not real sure that can be done , I think you’ll have to upload it to a video hosting site. I use YouTube and upload them there. You have the option to hide the video from public viewing and only place a link to sites that you want to share it with.

Thanks for all the replies and suggestions. My original thought was to do cherry for the main wood and do a walnut stripe and maybe even a bubinga stripe just kinda opposite of the coaster. But then I didn’t know what to do for the dowel. Maybe have to do the triangle idea.

I’m thinking you meant where did I get the pattern? If so then it’s from the scrollsawcafe site.. If you really meant why then I have to say that I’m not that good yet to just grab a blank ,start cutting, and come out with something this good. Some day I hope to get to that level, thinking that’s probably not in this life though since I’ve been cutting for 12 years and even the the stuff I’ve done multiple times still need a pattern

You just need to cut really fast so you don’t have time to lose your focus.

I made these coasters and have sort of just finished up with the coats of poly on them.. I intend to make a coaster holder.. kinda just thinking another square larger than the coasters are and using wood dowel rod sort of in the corners for the sides... BUT.. I have no idea what woods to use.. and not sure about the dowel rod wood types.. I think I have some 1/4" red oak and maple.. might actually be poplar now that i think about it.. anyway.. not too sure what other types of wood I can get dowel rod in.. and not sure what type of wood to use for the bottom of the holder.. I feel like doing the holder the same way as the coasters might make someone think there was another coaster there.. and.. so If I was to do it out of another type of wood.. what would I use and what dowel rod type of wood to use that wont really clash with what I have here... I did sort of think I could use a non- wood rod such as brass or another steel rod.. might look good with a solid Walnut base? Anyway, I'm looking for some ideas and thought I'd ask you all what your opinion is.. what would you do? whatever it is.. I made 10 coasters and thought I'd make two holders to split them up... BTW.. the wood used here is Walnut and the thin strip is Cherry.. the other is an exotic wood that I don't recall what it was.. wanna say it's bubinga ? Not sure that is spelled right...

Ray.. you just click the mouse over the area to be filled... It'll fill the whole area though unless there are boarder lines.. This is why we use it to see if a pattern has any floaters.. just click the pattern.. if there is an area that has a floater.. that area will not be filled.. because it has the boarder around it.. I'm thinking this is discussed in the pattern videos that Travis has put up... but that is a lot of videos to watch to catch the right one with this info in it.. I don't do enough pattern stuff yet to really know what I'm doing.. I've done patterns for several years... but not often enough to remember what I'm doing.. I'm slowly getting it on some things.. I just don't seem to do enough repetitive times to remember everything.. then many times I'm too busy to try so i ask here for a pattern... personally not my thing but yet I want to learn if that makes any sense.. much rather buy a pattern LOL..

I believe many of these car patterns are designed for a minimum of a size of 11 x 14.. I might even consider bigger than that.. the larger the pattern / cutting the larger those delicate pieces will be.. I did the duster one a few years ago and originally printed a sheet of paper size... no way to cut it that small... at least not back then.. I might could attempt it now that I have much more experience with delicate stuff.. LOL

This has been my thinking too... Not sure how it is these days.. but back in the day when my brother was looking to heat a garage where he was going to be doing automotive repairs.. the insurance companies refused to insure any type of wood heat source... he was quite bummed because he had already purchased the woodburner etc.. Wondering what you think about a pellet stove rather than a wood burner? I have one I heat my house with.. I like wood heat.. but don't like the mess that comes with it.. The pellet stove I have is fully sealed and the only part that gets hot enough to maybe burn you is the glass window and door assembly.. not so hot you can't touch it.. but hot enough you don't want you hand on it for very long though.. Has safety devices that if it gets too hot will shut down the auger motor.. I been contemplating buying a new one for my house and putting the one we been using for the last 20 years in the shop.. Not something I'd be running while not working... also contemplated if I block off a small section of the shop to work in the heated area.. a small electric shop heater.. Anyone have thoughts on either of those heaters.. No need for A/C for me and up here in the North the heat pumps aren't all that effective.. My son is a volunteer firefighter.. started at the age of 14 as a cadet for out local department..

My friend chose to use this design rather than the one that was made in my pattern request.. I'm still going to cut the one made for me in the request.. in fact it's already on the wood and drilled.. just need to get off my lazy butt and go cut it.. Not for a few days though with all the holiday things I've got going on and the errands I've gotta do today.. will be a little busy.. Oh took the picture of it setting on my drink coasters I made.. they are finally done.. dipped in the 50/50 BLO MS.. and then top coated with water based poly.. Made 10 of them... now need to make the holding tray for them..

Yes inkscape also has it.. but I've never seen anywhere that has a "wood look color"... When I do a custom order for a customer I do the wood looking bucket fill to show them a simulation of what it'd look like... as there are many folks that get confused with the black and white drawing and they cannot visualize what it is going to be.. so this is very helpful to me as a seller to email a simulation photo... normal colors work as well but I think the wood colors give a better simulation..

@octoolguy. I do this in gimp as it has some pre-loaded "wood colors" as to how I do it.. LOL that's a good one that I probably can't explain to well since I don't really know how I do it, LOL.. I just know there is a bucket fill too and then you click something that said pattern fill ( I think ) then it brings up the colors to choose from.. then click the area to be filled... I do this so automatically that I'm not exactly sure how I do it, LOL.. anyway.. I learn to do this when doing portrait patterns.. you fill there area and if you have any floaters.. they stay white so it helps you find those bad areas.. or.. it colors in areas that shouldn't be colored .. Not sure that made any sense but I tried.. I don't use these tool enough to know what I'm talking about..

Also most use black backers but it doesn't always need to be black.. here is a couple I've done in other than black colors..

I did a bucket fill with a light colored wood. This is how it should look when you're done... Cut out the black areas.. then put a backer board of your choice of colors..

Yep, It was Jerry.. I was one that didn't have any of that (wax paper? ) and used a trash bag.. as it was double the purpose.. I spread glue on one of my plastic trash bags and then do the process.. I figure I'm going to through out the trash bag anyway.. so.. why use an added thing to the landfill, LOL either way you do it.. it works great and is much faster when you have a lot of backers to glue up..

This is why I feel putting up walls and insulating the crap out of a small area is a smart idea.. because I'm not wasting $$ to heat / cool a whole building year round... It adds up quick to heat a whole shop.. and my shop could easily be condensed down to about a 12 x 20 or less area.. rather than heating a 24 x 32 lower level and a 14 x 32 upper level, LOL That's a lot of wasted energy to keep all that warm / cool.

Thank you, I had a wonderful day.. was a nice sunny Cold day and I was able to work packing orders in the house where it was warm... LOL first sunny day we've had in a while so that was nice..