kmmcrafts

I agree with Larry on this.. but as he said, a "good" vacuum with hepa filter is going to be quite pricey. I wonder though, I have one of these inline exhaust booster fans hooked up to my laser machine to remove smoke better. It is very quiet and moves quite a lot of air. They have a charcoal canister filter so you don't have to vent it to the outside, though I do not have one I just vent out a window for now.. But I wonder if hooking something like this to a scroll saw would work for that fine dust? This that I have I just use a flexible like dryer vent.. a person could put the suction hose right new the scroll saw at table height.. I'm pretty sure it'd move enough air but I don't know how it'd do with actually filtering the air since I do not have the filter part of this set up..however even just to have it suck the dust and aim it down to the box fan with filter on that.. Might be something to experiment with. https://www.ebay.com/itm/193530603124?hash=item2d0f52a674:g:fTsAAOSwQOxgwy4X&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8DEnLX%2FBM6MyF6%2BqfB0lhIGVxGYPVNy294O4ZkYjEjEpDJqadX9fE7BJ9Bth0llWY1CwHt8TkENGCBvd7Xh36Ff85lwxj6Vh0WKH%2BsD7hv%2BTDeYyjAl%2Bt87in72KQulphPDTF62W7Azjvzq%2BSRmfnBhqOK8lug8nr7SpzE57I1mHvIIDRsjt9u6waQCbFMQ3xvyZb8ynzyICURFprLvOnstkX9Lbuu9w1GqP6wf7P6C%2Bzz2tewdYI1EJDAs%2BAmW8FhUvNW6j6GRt1z0ipYmNOVvzizYCOO3uxbUhTM%2BWXzFcvMo%2BMn6cCUUKMNfMWQ3usw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM5qv1vrJi https://www.ebay.com/itm/193530603124?hash=item2d0f52a674:g:fTsAAOSwQOxgwy4X&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA8DEnLX%2FBM6MyF6%2BqfB0lhIGVxGYPVNy294O4ZkYjEjEpDJqadX9fE7BJ9Bth0llWY1CwHt8TkENGCBvd7Xh36Ff85lwxj6Vh0WKH%2BsD7hv%2BTDeYyjAl%2Bt87in72KQulphPDTF62W7Azjvzq%2BSRmfnBhqOK8lug8nr7SpzE57I1mHvIIDRsjt9u6waQCbFMQ3xvyZb8ynzyICURFprLvOnstkX9Lbuu9w1GqP6wf7P6C%2Bzz2tewdYI1EJDAs%2BAmW8FhUvNW6j6GRt1z0ipYmNOVvzizYCOO3uxbUhTM%2BWXzFcvMo%2BMn6cCUUKMNfMWQ3usw%3D%3D|tkp%3ABFBM5qv1vrJi

I haven't tried it but I think you can remove the screws that hold the metal plate on where the hose connects to and turn it so it comes out the other side and screw it back on.. I think that was on the EX 21 like that? I know the DeWalt was as I did change it on that.. mostly by accident when i had it apart and didn't pay close attention to it when I put it back on, LOL..

My box fan with a furnace filter does way better than my ceiling mounted air filtration system.. putting it on the floor about 2 - 3 foot from the saw on the side that the air puffer blows the dust towards seems to pull a lot of the dust "down" toward the ground instead of sucking it up to the ceiling and hopefully getting into the filtration system. I also do have the Seyco scroll saw dust collector..it seems to work pretty decent. but the box fan is quieter than any of them and also moves more air.

So I did something a little different. I engraved lines on the backer so I could do two different colors. Not 100% sure I like it or not. My wife said I need to dry brush some brown into the green area and dry brush the blue like I did on the Michigan one in the photos above post where it’s not plain blue but has streaks of darker blue and white in it. I might give that a try later. Thoughts on this one?

Well, they all make the details of the cutting pop.. I've never been one to put colors behind a animal that wasn't more realistic.. those bright colors would be neat behind a car / motorcycle cutting.. This looks like it's cut from walnut and so once finished the wood probably going to darken up a lot.. As they are right now I like the blue.. however I think that gold color once the walnut has it's finish on it might look pretty neat.

I'm with Dan on this.. I use the same #3 blade to cut out the outline of a puzzle as I use to cut the actual pieces. I know some use a hand held jigsaw to rough out.... Me I like the little extra wood to hold onto when cutting puzzles out.. you get down to the last couple pieces and it doesn't leave much to hold onto. so when I cut puzzles I drill holes for the inside cuts and also one for the outline and then I just cut the pieces out of the larger block of wood. While I do not like cutting on a really large block / blank.. I don't mind something like a 8 x 10 ish size blank. Typically will lay out a large 6 foot board of puzzles to cut and will use the bandsaw or sometimes just a chop saw to cut the length down to manageable sizes like shown in the video of me cutting out a puzzle. https://www.facebook.com/KevsKrafts/videos/801478010278251

I agree with you on that.. I'm not sure some of the other colors would give the details of the ornament that pop.. yet be soft on the eyes to look at. I might have to just paint a few backers and see how other colors might look. I'm kind of thinking the blue is going to be the top choice though.

Yes they was engraved and cut on the laser... Though I might go through and edit the designs for scrolling.. I just wouldn't be able to do the engraved part.. I could edit the names of the states and would be able to cut that out easy enough.. just the engraving around the edge is a bit small to cut with the scroll saw.

Yes, I tried searching for a list of state colors.. I did find some states do have colors but many I guess do not or it's not listed.. I have designs for all states and even some provinces from other countries.. so I'll probably be doing at least all the states..

Do states have a “State Color” ? I’m not aware of one for Michigan and since Michigan has lakes surrounding it I painted this blue for the water sort of. I’ve been doing some other state ornaments and not sure about colors to paint them or just make them all blue like the Michigan one. So far everyone I’ve shown the painted vrs. Walnut backer they all like the painted better so I feel like I should be painting them all. Just not sure about the colors. What is your thoughts?

Never gave it much thought about the frequency changing with different sized blades.. I've always just read that it should give a hi C note.. But that note couldn't possibly be made with a big ol hacksaw type blade.. I've never used anything larger than a #7 and that's really rare for me to use that big of one.. also don't use much smaller than a #1 either. Anyway, this means whoever says it should have a C note.. is only partly right

Why? that's just dumb.. Sorry I just had to since you said someone would and I wanted to be the first I remember someone posting about using one some years ago and you guessed right.. many asked why and that's stupid or overkill etc etc.. Anyway, I think I've read many different times that a proper tensioned blade should be about a "C" note... whatever that is supposed to be.. Like you, I don't have the music talent or the ears for that either. My older brothers stole all of that from the younger of the siblings as two of my brothers play in bands and actually have some music published through a recording company.. Guess they are good at it.. I wouldn't know since they've stole all the ear talents from us younger siblings NOW, with that said.. couldn't one play some music from a scroll saw.. you have the ( what's it called? Reverb bar? ) tension lever to change the tune of a single string ( blade in this case ).. I would say someone would have a lot of talent if they could play a song using a scroll saw and blade tension lever only. LOL I might suggest this to my talented brothers,

Little late to the party here, was going to tell you if you need help getting it out of the box you could mail it to me, I'll get it out of the box for you. Congrats on the new saw, I hope you get many years of enjoyment from it and many completed projects.

Great saw!! They are awesome saws once you get the blade tensioning down.. That is probably the most complicated part of the Hawk and Hegners.. My first was a Hawk and I was ready to throw it into a trash can at one point, LOL But as Paul said, then something clicked and I haven't looked back.. I love my Hawks.. I Like the Hegner but my biggest issue with the Hegner is the small table, and yes you can fab a larger top but since I have two of the biggest Hawks with nice tables I just use those for the larger works and the Hegner gets used for smaller pieces. I didn't have any issues with blades breaking but most of my tensioning skills came from learning it on the Hawks. They are way more fussy with tension than the Excaliburs and like saws.. I like using my Excalibur too for certain projects.. guess I could get by with just a Hawk but it is nice to be reassured of how nice of a saw it is when I go to trying to cut on the Excalibur, LOL.. You forget how nice it is to have a spring loaded upper arm instead of having to "lift it up" etc.. Same thing when I went from DeWalt to Excalibur.. the DW has to have something to hold the arm up once raise... great saws too but just not the Cadillac saw like the Hawks and Hegners are..

Great saws.. I have a 1998 serial 109*** so I'm thinking this is early 2000's model. While these run around $1700 for the latest newest model this older version I wouldn't think is worth $700.. I got mine back in 2016 from a older person that bought it new in 1998 and was still in the sealed box.. ( unfortunately he had a medical condition after he had ordered it and just never was able to put it to use ) I got a heck of a deal for $400 as to my surprise when I opened up the boxes it turned out it had a magnifier light several ( 10+ ) blade holders and several pattern books blades etc.. I would have paid that $700 or maybe a little more for mine being brand new but too many used ones floating around in the $3 - 500 range.. Lots of folks on Facebook groups etc. would say this is a decent deal and it may be in certain locations but many reference the $1700 price of the new model, however the new model while it looks just like these older ones have been redesigned and are a much nicer saw.. Many think it's the same thing and it's not, I know because I bought a brand new one in 2018.. If I thought I could get $500 - 700 from mine I'd probably sell it.. I didn't use it much after I got the new one so it only has 100 hours on the hour meter. In my mind a good deal on this saw would be $300 or less.. If you was really wanting this particular older style and needing a saw maybe $500 at best.. That's just my opinion and the prices are typically a ( the most I'd pay ).. Really would depend on in person inspection etc..

I have many heros... way too many to post here, LOL This one is my top pick though so i'll just post the one.

Something else is kinda interesting with the hour meters is: I can cut two of the same projects coming from the same board using the same brand /make of blade on two separate saws and one saw it takes less time than the other.. Blade life from one saw to the other is also a difference. As James said it's just a neat little gadget to have to toy around with and it's not like it cost a lot of money to set up your own timer.. I don't really see a reason to post your cut times.. just go buy you a clock or hour meter and time your own stuff.. You can get some interesting useless data from it besides just saw maintenance.. Also showed me how long my dust collection vacuum runs / lasted before the first vacuum burned up, LOL.. We'll see if the next one last around the same amount of time, then I can know when to expect another one to fail. Kinda like having a odometer on your car, you have an idea of how long your tires last or other things.. check your gas mileage ( blade life LOL ). I am kinda a data geek I suppose, I wish everything came standard with hour meters on them.. just gives an idea of usage or how much wear something has..

Really just for curiosity sake.. If you're a business and wanting to keep track of time this isn't the the way to do it since actual cutting time vrs. overall time is really minimal.. Like I said, I can set at the saw for 40 hours a week but actual saw run time is likely around 10 -15 hours.. This is really dependant on the type of project at had too of course as fretwork takes more time changing to different holes than just cutting outlines or whatever.. I find that cutting the anilam puzzles actually puts on more hours on the saw than say cutting a portrait or trivet etc.. as there are a lot of just cutting the pieces inches to a puzzle without stopping to switch to the next hole doing fretwork. As I said I did it more for saw maintenance, and it's kind of neat to understand approximately how long a mid-range type saw will last before having issues.. My experience for DW and Excalibur type saws it's going to be around 300 ish hours.. Buy a Hawk or Hegner and I'm not sure the hour meter will last that long..

If I did that then this is how my shop walls would look.. many times I start on a project to "restock" a sold item and another order comes in for a sold out item so I have to make the sold out item to get it to the customer quickly.. I change all my sold out items to a "made to order" until I get around to restocking it.. so many times I get a project started and it might take me 3-4 weeks just to get back at it again.. many times I get a order for it before it's done restocked again even though I started it a few weeks prior, LOL..

This as far as I know has always been the case.. MWS has always been a little cheaper than WTB even though WTB bought out MWS and they are the same in one now.. they seem to operate as two separate entities. As for sales tax.. it is my understanding that sellers do not have to collect and report sales tax to only their own state "unless" they are selling a certain amount of $$ in said particular state. For instance I sell on etsy and etsy being a large business is required collect and report it on my behalf.. however my own website doesn't necessarily have to charge sales tax because I'm nowhere near the ( I think it's ) 10,000 per particular state in sales to have them make me collect and remit.. Etsy and those larger sites do a lot of business transactions in each state and they are the payment processor so they are required to.. I may be wrong on all this and someone may know more about this.. It's just what I remember being told when they started making sellers / marketplaces collect for states other than your own state. Just because it wasn't collected from the seller doesn't mean you're not supposed to report it yourself under the use tax I think is where that's at.. tax forms used to have a question line to report it similar to "if you purchased items out of state but had it delivered to your state" etc..people weren't reporting it and more and more online business going on the states were missing out and wanted their share, LOL..

Since I was headed out the door earlier I'll finish my reply, LOL. I have quite a variety of blades I've gathered over the years.. I use for the most part Pegas blades.. there are certain projects that I use Flying Dutchman and or Olsen blades... I get my Pegas blades from Denny.. Do not care for Bearwood at all and try to not use them if I don't have too, but that's just a personal thing that I have my reasons why. FD blades I get from Mikesworkshop.. sure miss Mike as his customer service and experience would outdo any other seller to date past or present.. he would send free of charge a 2 blade sample of any blade he sold for you to try. Olsen blade I currently just buy packs at the box stores since my use is minimal now days, and the sellers I used to get them from are no longer there or the one is just very poor customer service so I stopped ordering from them. I also use Super Sharps from PSwood.. they are awesome blades for certain types of projects and are pricey blades so I limit my usage of them if possible. For a time I ordered my blades from Bushton MFG. because they sold Flying Dutchman, Olsen,, and Pegas and were cheaper than anyone else for a while but last time I needed blades they was out of stock on all the ones I needed.. Thinking maybe they was getting out of the business of blade sales possible as they was never out of stock and some of the styles / sizes was completely gone from the site.

Under the resources tab at the top you'll see "suppliers" There is a long list..

Yeah I kind of figured that but figured I'd reply about the vibration from a stand that isn't set properly to the floor it is setting on. Over the years I have bought many used saws and even parts saws from cheap Harbor Freight style brands all the way up to the most recent Hegner that was given to me just to tinker with and or to rebuild / restore just to give it another life and make someone a good saw when I sell it. I can't tell you how many saws I went to "look / test" and a quality saw would dang near vibrate across the floor.. My first Hawk they was asking $350 for but when I went to look at it they had the saw bolted to a big piece of warped plywood and was in a shed with a wood and also very warped floor.. The saw vibrated horrible, I didn't know whether to buy it or not since I never had any experience with one of them but I had seen how they was supposed to be top of the line. I talked to seller about how smooth it should be and I thought there was something wrong with it. Seller not knowing either as it was his father's who had past a few years prior. He ended up saying if I want it I could take it for $100.. Brought it home and removed that warped plywood planform they had it bolted to and set it up on my concrete floor it ran quite a lot smoother.. That saw there really taught me how important having the stands legs planted to the floor good is just as important as having the blade square to the table or any other tune-up for a saw. I know a lot of folks make wood stands but as much as wood breathes and moves I don't see how they can be vibration free at all speeds.. Get a real humid day and the wood expands a little.. I'm assuming the shear weight of the wood stand helps a lot with it all, I've never had a wood stand and I know a lot of folks use them that are happy with them so they must work. Same thing goes for stand that people put wheels on.. I don't see how they can keep them from vibrating. I've had a saw with wheels and tried my best to get the wheels planted to the shop floor good.. I never could get it to be nice and smooth running.

I think all saws have this issue, but that being said.. if you're on a 4 legged stand it's really hard to get all 4 legs planted onto the floor with exact even pressure so there is no rocking movement at all.. The smoothest saw I ever had was my DeWalt that had the 3 leg stand.. The Hegner is really smooth too with that 3 leg stand. I find with the 4 legged stands it's best to loosen the bolts to the stand and wiggle it around to get it settled into the permanent spot and then tighten the stand back up.. This helps a ton with those harmonic speeds to keep vibration and sound to a minimum. Last week I built a shelf inside the stand legs of my Hawk BM-26 and used some 1/8 thick aluminum angle cut to size and bolted into the already stamped holes in the stand. One of the Hawks I used to have that I bought used came with a shelf like I built. Those aluminum angle pieces I added stiffened up that stand a lot and it's running smoother than I've ever been able to get it. I'm surprised or maybe not, LOL that Hawk doesn't have some bracing on the lower part of the stands to stiffen it up, I mean the holes are there for it but the two new saws I've bought never came with any bracing. I always thought that first saw that had the shelf was a factory shelf option.. as i see similar on other saws on marketplace etc.. I don't see any shelf kit or anything from Hawk so maybe it was at one time.. either way, I'll be adding the shelf to the other Hawk soon to if nothing else it stiffens up the stand a lot. Every other saw stand I've seen / had has braces on the lower portion of the stand.. I never gave it much though I guess until I seen the difference in performance just by add that shelf brackets.

Okay, I re-read your post and that makes sense.. I thought you was saying to plug the clock and saw etc into the power switch and when done sawing shut off the strip but you're saying to power the strip to the foot switch. Took me a minute to understand that concept for some reason, LOL..