oldhudson

I always snip off 1/8-3/16 from the Olson blades on my Delta. Figured there was enough difference in saws that this wasn't unusual?

Really nice. How many coats of shellac and what cut do you use? And thanks for putting in the size.

Eye-candy for a woodworker!

If I've understood you correctly, you want to make a gluing form. Cut a sheet of 3/4" mdf to create the base of your form. Then cut and screw additional pieces, cut at a right angle, to create the "dead end". Screwing the "dead end" to the base. Then cut and screw together the other portion of the form. Cover all the pices with packing tape so when everything is clamped the blank doesn't adhear to the form. Here's a Youtube video of what I'm talking about. The video is for 'bent' lamination but I think you'll see what I'm trying to explain. Hope this helps.

Very nice! Did you have plans or were you winging it?

I have a dedicated holder that I have on the bench when the scroll saw is in use and put away with the saw at other times. Additionally I keep my 'supply' of blades in their bags in a cigar box in a closet. Here's a pic of the dedicated holder. Steve at WWMM would be proud of this project made from pallet wood. A nice piece of oak that I slided off a skid. Drilled some holes and use a leather stamp set to label the size blades. I'm not sure if you can make those out? Brushed on BLO for a finish. The back row is for new blades and the front is for blades that have seen some use. This should be an interesting thread. Thanks for starting it.

Very handsome. What kind of hinges did you use?

IMHO the best site for router info is routerforums.com - good people over there. If i'm routing an irregular shape I make a template either from 1/4" Masonite or 1/2" mdf. Both are easy to work. I use the template to mark the stock and cut it close to the line with a scroll saw, jig saw or band saw, based on what you have in your shop. After it's rough cut, use double sided tape to affix the template to your stock. Chuck up a pattern bit (I like the spiral bits. They're spendy but don't tear up the wood as much as stright bits do. There is an excellent article on router bits for pattern routing in the current issue of Fine Woodworking #238) Set the height so the bearing on the pattern bit lines up with the template and route. If your cutting hardwood be very careful of the grain direction. It can throw the stock in a 'climbing' cut. And 1" thick is a lot of stock to remove. I hope this makes sense, I didn't have any pictures to post.

Great work! How'd you get that texture on the Adrian and Cesar signs?

Although I've made more than my share of mistakes, and been plenty scared, in the shop, I've never taken a ride to the ER. I hope telling stories here doesn't change the karma. I was routing a large circle for a lazy Susan (where'd that name come from? why not lazy Steve?) and my 1/4" bit broke and clipped my pants leg. I was setting up to do some horizontal boring with a long bit.(I was working on a lamp) and I must have not gotten the bit incorrectly so the chuck really didn't secure it and when I started the equipment the bit worked loose in a couple seconds swinging loose and damaging my equipment. Like most my scariest events are with the table saw. I have several kick back incidents but he worst was when I was new to woodworking. I was showing the equipment to a nephew who stood behind the saw.. The saw grabbed and threw the stock back nearly catching my nephew. I don't allow anyone in the shop now when I'm working. No one is to enter the shop if equipment is running. I use safety glasses all the time. I use feather boards and a variety of push sticks at the saw and I always use the blade guard or a splitter. I use a variety of pushblocks at the router table too. I am much more careful. I try to think through operations in my mind as I set up looking for potential problems. I encourage everyone to work carefully. I've never had any problems or scare with a scroll saw.

In Minnesota we say, "well if it's snowing at least it's not cold". Minus 10 this morning.

I thought I'd try to post some pics of my shop. Let's see how this goes. My shop is on the lower level of a split entry house. It's 12 x 14. And while that's pretty small I often use the garage for breaking down sheet goods and finishing, well at least between March and November, this time of year - not so much. I also have permission to use the family room for 'staging'. I should add a couple of notes. These photos are a couple years old and like most shops it is in a state of constant change. If I took pics today it would look somewhat different. And my router table sits on a shelf with an old B&D Workmate when not in use. I take both down and set the router table in the Workmate for table routing. And while this fine group is dedicated to scrolling, in the interest of full disclosure, I'm more of a generalist. I like to make things I haven't done before. Here's a few pics:

So what size is 'the den'? You certainly have a lot packed into a small space - congratulations! And is that a strip sander sitting to the right of the bench mortiser?

I wondered if anyone here has or has made a treadle powered scroll saw? I'm sure I heard somewhere that 'back in the day' some gentlemen did fretwork in their living rooms. Just curious.

Wow a tile floor in the garage?! Organized and clean I'm sure you're very proud of it.

Band saws are pretty nice tools to have. You won't be sorry you have it. Was it under the tree?

In every organization there's a few folks, behind the scenes, making things go smoothly and helping the rest of us have a good experience. So I raise my glass (actually a coffee cup) and salute the people who make SSV work. Thank you one and all!

There's a DeWalt 788 on CL in my area for $275. I'm going to go look at it. For those of you who have experience with them - is there anything in particular to watch out for? Thanks in advance for any input. http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/csw/tls/4218880805.html

Very nicely done plus quality time with a grandchild. Doesn't get much better.

You should post more detail. Where do you fish and what a you trying to catch? I go out a couple times a year but 'open hole' it. There's a little ice here on the smaller lakes but anything larger is all open water still. Winter is such a great time if you don't have to drive to work in the snow.

As someone with limited experience with scrolling I wondered if some of you could recommend a book to learn more about scrolling and making patterns. I was reading the recent thread about patterns and I don't even recognize some of the expressions. One project I know I'm interested in is making a puzzle from a family photo. If I haven't provided enough for you to suggest a book, I'll answer questions, Thanks for reading.

I've made more than my share of mistakes over the years, but never that one. I think I'd try soaking them in turp, or whatever the correct solvent is (the sooner the better), and then try to wipe off and use compressed air to blow them dry. You'll really have to let the solvent 'flash off' completely. I'm looking forward to how others would attack this goof. Good luck.

Nice piece. So that's pained copper? And how are the "rays" attached, with solder or? How large is this? Finally how will it be displayed?

I'm another with relatively little scroll saw time, but I prefer Olson brand over the Fly Dutchman.

I re-saw stock with a ShopSmith band saw. It's not too difficult. If you have flooring material that's 3/4 and you want to make it 1/2 it should not be a problem. I'd cut it about 9/16" and plane it to final dimenion. I use 1/2" resaw blade with 4 tpi. The brand I've been using is Timberwolf. Just like with scroll sawing the blade and tension are important. With the bandsaw you'll proablly get some 'drift' too so watch for that. Make test cuts without a fence to determine the drift. I use a STRIGHT piece of stock, make a line parallel to one edge and hand feed it into the blade staying on the line. Then adjust you fence to the angle needed. I'm sure you can find a U tube vid that explains this process.