oldhudson

Jake and Elwood will live forever thanks to you. Thanks for the pattern. As an aside I was working in downtown Chicago on one of the Saturdays when that movie was been made. Our shipping dock was on the lower level of Wacker Drive. I watched some of the stuff live.

It came out great!

Nice work, I'm impressed.

Great job, love the pattern.

I use and really like gel stains and I use regular oil base stains, the stuff that has no body (like Minwax). HOWEVER I don't have experience using either for fretwork. I would think the gel stains would not work well with fret work because they are so thick and conventional stains should work well because they flow well. Generally I 'control' the color by wiping the stain off with a clean rag after some amount of time. So if I want a little color I wipe on a stain and wipe it off immediatly. If I want the color deeper I'll leave it on for few minutes before wiping it off. That would be tough to do with fretwork. I always seal wood with shellac before staining. (3 oz. of unwaxed shellac flakes to 12 oz. of denatured alchohol). It's very thin. Goes on easy. Dries in a couple hours. I think for BB ply I'd use more than one coat because of the edges. I always do a very light sanding between coats and before any stain or topcoat. I have use another product called McClosky's Sanding Sealer. It was fine. My general practice with finishing is to make test pieces. I'm working on a vanity and have tried about 8 different stains/topcoat finishing combinations to get the color/finish I was happy with. It takes lots of time but after selecting or creating a plan, purchasing wood, milling, carefully cutting and/or joining - I'm not about to hurry the finishing. Here's a test piece.

Maybe I've misunderstood, but if your local store doesn't carry it any longer, won't they tell you who their supplier was so you can contract them directly?

Nope I've never fallen asleep at in the shop. I guess I don't work hard enough. The only story I can tell similar is that I lived in Chicago for many years and rode the subway to my job, I worked in the "loop". Fell asleep one morning and woke up way out on the south side. Too funny.

I've cut plexiglass with a table saw and Fein multitool but never a scroll saw. I anxious to hear what others have experienced with this.

Great use of your material!

That looks just super and would be a handy item. Is that your pattern? and are you sharing it?

I have used a Wen random orbit buffing tool on my cars for years and it's been fine. I suppose this is a single speed unit and it's generally better to have speed control but anything that can reduce sanding time is of value. So as long as you can get replacement belts and disks, at fair pricing - I'd think it's a keeper.

Excellent execution! You've certainly captured the SW vibe.

Hi Team. So I thought I'd post how this clock project is coming along. I ended up cutting all the pieces from BB ply. The bottom or "C" is 1/2" and the two parts of the "A" are both 1/4". The numbers are 1/8". All parts cut with scroll saw. I painted everything this weekend, inside ugh, but with temps in the teens in the garage and not much hope that it will get to +50° F before the end of March I decided I wanted to move on. Here's my spray booth. This scrap ply is resting on a lazy Susan, so it's easy as pie to spin it while I spray. Here are the spearate pieces. And kinda what it will look like assembled. So I'm waiting for FedEx to bring the movement and hands. I have to scroll out a recess of the bottom piece to hold the movement. I'll use wood glue to fix the main pieces together and epoxy to add the numbers. I'll give the whole thing a couple coats of lacquer. Thanks for looking comments/critiques welcome.

I sent the seller an email yesterday asking that question, does it have variable speed. It's a NO so I'm leaving it in his shop. Thanks to all who provided insight.

In my local CL there are 3 RBI Hawk scroll saws for sales in the $350 range. I wondered if those who have knowledge of this brand could comment and the quality of the saw and if the price is fair. I use my Delta affixed to my work bench. It sort of appears that the Hawk requires a stand, is that correct? Thanks for reading.

I sign my first name with a Sharpie (a fatty on a large piece and a fine point on a smaller one) and I drill out a shallow 3/4 hole and epoxy a penny from the current year in place. If there's not enough material to drill out a spot for the penny I'll add the year with the Sharpie. Neat thread it's interesting to see how folks approach this subject. I did a mail box post for myself 15 years ago and while my name has long since weathered away you can still see my penny (at least when the snows not covering it).

Nice work, you can be proud of those and I'm sure your wife will treasure them forever.

Absolutely. IMHO woodworking is a lot more fun if each project is full of new challenges. I like making lamps. Here are a few examples. You can do the same sort of thing with the corner units. Just change the style to fullfill the specific need or to match the style of the room, utilize the stock on hand or to get experience with a new skill. Each of these lamps has it's own 'story'. I like fly fishing and saw a picture of a lamp like this in some high end magazine and made one. The carriage light was simply the need to replace existing lamps on our garage and I couldn't find anything that wasn't made in China so I made my own. If you look closely you can see I scrolled a flower out of copper on the front panel. The dovetail lamp I made was one of my first projects I got to use a dovetail template I'd purchased at Sears. The mission style lamp was a chance to make a lamp as well as the shade. So when your friends ask you to make a corner unit say that's fine but you want design control. So have fun and amaze you friends.

Kevin you must have a lot more get-up-and-go than I do. Congrats on some fine work.

Nice job with the scroll work! What kind of movement is in the clock and who'd you get it from?

Looks great! How's that laminated flooring to cut?

I've been following them on YouTube. Go there and search on "scroll saw goodies inkscape lessons", they should be there for you to enjoy.

Zero clearance inserts are used quite often with table saws but I've not seen or heard of folks using them for scrolling. I'm not familar with saws other than my Delta so maybe that's why it never comes up. Changing blades on the Delta requires a funky "allen" or hex wrench. You need to really see the lower clamp to install a new blade so the opening requires a insert plate. Here's what mine looks like. To minimize tear-out on stock I've made a couple of ZCI's. One from a masonite material and one from cedar. see pics. I wondered if others were using them or if they don't see a need or if their saws have smaller table openings? Thanks for reading and have a good day.

Very nicely done, I'm inspired.

I think it came out great, thanks for sharing.