oldhudson
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Everything posted by oldhudson
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Here's my thoughts: 1. good prep is the key to a good finish, so keep sanding. 2. then get rid of all the dust - it's better to paint in another location - I generally work in the basement shop but paint in the garage. 3. as someone mentioned earlier - more light coats are better than a couple heavy coats 4. if i brush on paint I prefer acrylic paints - if I spray I use rattle cans 5. I use a 'turn table' just a lazy Susan with some scrap pw on the top. I can stay in one spot with the best light while I paint. 6. because I don't paint often, the nozzles often plug up (this sometimes happens with spray adhesives too) so I remove the nozzle after using and store in a small container of turp 7. I like to use a pistol grip (pictured) when spraying with a rattle can
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According to Wikipedia, white, Hungarian and Turkey oaks are native to Europe and Asia. White oak is native to the America’s as well. Red oak is found in the America’s. Canyon or bur or scrub oak in the SW US and Mexico. There is no listing for English oak, however at the website Wood Database, English oak is listed as one of several sub-groups of white oak. My guess, white oak. Lot’s of white oak in the right half of the US and Canada, but as Larry pointed out, with color differences of aging and the color differences between heart wood and sap wood – this sounds like a difficult task. Good luck.
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Cool indeed! Thx for the post.
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Pretty decent video, I wish I'd have thought about using only two locking castors and two of the cheap ones. Oh well, live and learn.
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I have a Delta 'lunch box' planer. I purchased it maybe 10-12 years ago. Never having used a different brand/model it's hard to judge. But this has never broken down. I'm mostly a hobby woodworker so it doesn't get heavy use. I used it extensively when I built my kitchen cabinets from rough cut cherry. It was great. I like the blade changing feature as opposed to sharpening a set of blades a couple times a year. Unfortunately it often leaves a slight scratch in planning and while I've taken it apart a couple times and replaced blades I've been unable to sort it out? Finally it's way to heavy for me to move any more so I mounted it on this cart which rolls into a corner of the shop when not in use. On the other side is my chop saw. The work surface flips 180°. See pics. I think a serious hobbyist who works with rough cut stock or is re-sawing for scroll work would benefit from a planer. I avoid HF.
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I really think you need to provide specific info before anyone can help. What problems are you having and what are your expectations. And of course pictures....
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Very nice work!!! But I'd have a Dickens of a time getting it to the coffee shop on Wednesday morning for my weekly game.
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I purchased an adjustable stool from Northern Tool & Equipment. Another scroller recommended it to me. Here's the link: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_seats+shop-seats-stools? I've had mine for a couple years and find it pretty darn good. Unfortunately, at the lowest setting, the floor to seat measurement is about 8" greater than the 24" you're looking for. But if you cut off the 4 legs just below the lower support ring, it should be right in the 'ballpark'. I'd think this would be a stocking item so you could see it before opening the wallet. (I wish I knew how to copy a picture from a website and post it?)
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As Roy used to say, Happy Trails! We look forward to your joining us again.
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Here's a link to the thread for the WGC I made last year. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/7800-wooden-gear-clock/?hl=%2Bwooden+%2Bgear+%2Bclock I think reading through it will answer your questions but feel to send me an email if you have more questions and I'll try to get back here regularly. Good luck they are great fun.
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I have both types. I use the 5" random orbit sander a lot more than the palm sander, but not for scroll work. The random orbit sander uses the velcro sanding sheets (really fast and easy to change grits) and is variable speed. It just covers a lot more territory than the palm sander can. I find the palm sander a bit safer when working on delicate projects. The dust collection holes on a random orbit sander can grab stock and mess you up.
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I thought your tips were great! I had a hemostat attached to my fishing vest but moved it to the shop after reading your post.
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I came across this web site by accident and thought it was pretty interesting. It might inspire someone in SSV? http://www.stencil-library.co.uk/artsandcrafts-motif-stencils/001633-ART0134-1/motifno6stencil.html
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Silicone products often create issues when finishing, I have no silicone in the shop. I treat all the metal surfaces on my equipment with Johnson's Paste Wax - 4x a year. Just my 2 cents.
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Nice work, you should tell us a bit about the project. Is the background bead board or are strips just paint or? Size?
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It is so satisfying to make a change in your shop or tools that helps make things easier, more accurate, more convenient or flexible. And if you can do it on the cheap you deserve praise. Well done Carl.
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You've certainly chosen a very challenging project. I'm looking forward to your posts under "Works in Progress". When I think of a project like this it reminds me of the old question and answer, "How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time." So I'm sure you'll progressing one cut at a time. Have fun!
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I think this deserves top marks. Interesting pattern (image within the image), nicely framed (is that your work?), and well photographed too.
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It's actually from Garrison Keillor's radio program A Prairie Home Companion, in it's 40th season. And there was a movie with that title based on the radio program. It is broadcast in the US on many public radio stations, usually late afternoons or early evenings on weekends.
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Lake Wobegon, Minnesota "where all the women are strong, all the men are good looking, and all the children are above average,"
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Welcome to the forum. Great people here. On my 'bucket list' has always been a desire to see the Formula 1 race at Spa-Francorchamps... in my mind I can see them going through Eau Rouge and up the Kemmel Straight.
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I've had one of these for years http://www.veritastools.com/Products/Page.aspx?p=66 and love it. I use it on the table saw and router I know they're spendy but I'll have it forever and be able to leave it to one of the kids. I see they have a lot more choices now. My set has 1/16, 1/8, 1/4, 1/2 and the big block gives me 1, 2 & 3 inches.
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I wouldn't think it would be too difficult to make an insert plate for the saw. I make them for mine so I can have zci for different set-ups. I make mine from hardwood. Of course it's easy because I had the factory insert to copy but still I think it would be fairly straight forward make one and it would greatly improve the safety of the saw and may assist in dust collection too. I know you're a busy guy but consider fabricating a proper insert. Just out of curiosity do you use the saw for both ripping and cross cutting or just ripping stock? Happy New Year Kevin!
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Very clever!!!
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I was going to mention a zero clearance insert too, but DW beat me to it. And while tape and different blades impact tear-out having a really good support where the cutting force is exerted does really help. (On a standard table saw a ZCI is indispensable.) These two pics are of my Delta with the standard insert and the hardboard insert I made. The one I'm using now is still a cheapo piece of hardboard. Instead of cutting to fit the insert I covered the whole surface with hardboard and taped to the regular table. I wax the top side to allow stock to slide easier on the hardboard.
