I'm sure you're right, but don't hesitate to try a technique on scrap just to see what happens. I recently routed a 3/4" round over on 3/4" maple veneer core plywood and it came out surprisingly well. It was on the base of entertainment unit so it wouldn't be seen but the customer wanted to be able to slide the unit across the carpeting of his living room.
Again, nice work!
Anything that minimizes and isolates vibrations and resonances in the equipment is a good thing. Well done. Nice picture too. What's the sunbeam item on top of the saw? Is that a heater or stereo speaker or?
As others have said already, when you have to increase the forward pressure moving the stock into the blade. Of course when they break it's a sure sign it's time to put in a new blade.
I agree with DW it's a pretty straight ahead project. I'm sure you can 'copy' this easily, as long as it's for personal use. You have the wine bottle to help with the scale. I don't know that I see it as a scroll saw project but with a band saw and router I think it looks easy enough. My first impression is cutting the bottom of the wine bottle may be the most difficult part. I think this looks pretty neat too maybe I'll add it to my "to do" list?
I thought their selection of wood was excellent and the fit/finish was first rate. Very nice work. I'm certain that pic doesn't represent their first hanging candle/wine bottle.
If you decide to tackle it you should put it under Works in Progress and we can follow along.
I've had good luck with these:
http://timberwolfblades.com/
I used to re-coil blades when I switched between sizes but IMHO that bending modifies the shape and causes quite a lot of vibration. Once I open now I leave them open.
Nice puzzle it really pops. I've had good luck with poplar, although I've only used it for a couple of scroll saw projects. But I'd offer a couple of suggestions. Before cutting and applying the pattern: 1. sand with 100 or 150 (whatever you normally start with); 2. clean off dust and wipe with a damp rag to raise the grain; 3. sand again; seal with a thin coat of blond shellac; 4. follow you normal steps for cutting a puzzle.
Whenever I can I try to finish first. When I made my kitchen cabinets I applied 3 coats of a finish to the 4' x 8' sheets of birch pw I was making the cases from and I stained and varnished the door parts before assembly. Just a suggestion.
Like the others who have commented - this is a most excellent piece!
I've seen small versions of this made of metal. Better keep close watch on it when you fire up the candles. I'm sure I speak for many when I say I'd love to see a 15 second video of it in action. Post it on You Tube and give us a link.
I found the corners most interesting, can you share a picture or two of how they go together?
Thanks for joining our little club.
Thanks Dick. Way cool! Brilliant! I'd really like to try something like that, this winter when we are snowed in?
Did anyone figure out what 'powers' it? Was there a spring somewhere or was it weight or??? I especially liked the modified universal joint.
IMHO - If this is a pattern you made then $50 is very reasonable, if another persons pattern they $50 is fair. That said, for a friend I think the price is on the steep side, but that's just me, and as my wife will tell you I'm often wrong.
I agree with Scott. This is difficult for most people. Even responding honestly to your post may p@#s some folks off.
Frankly it's pretty difficult to evaluate cut quality based on a picture, especially as the pic quality itself varies substantially. Although in some better pics you can see smoother cuts and others not so much.
As for design we may or may not know if the design is original or from another source. If original then our own bias can show up. Someone posts a cutting of the Last Supper, but I'm Jewish - it's okay. But someone posts a picture of a Star of David - well done. Someone posts a picture of a flower and I may or may not like it and I don't even know why!
Often there is info missing from a post that may impact a persons ability to comment. The materials and thickness for example. I think fine cutting in 1/2 maple is tougher than in 1/8 BB. Obviously the number of entry holes. Then there is complexity. Because this is a scroll saw forum most of the items with be 'portrait' items. I expect that. But sometimes folks go beyond that with boxes or clocks or inlays - all of which for me personally raises my interest. And let's not forget the environment people work in. Kevin does amazing work - outside under a tarp! And there is another member, who works in an unheated garage in Wisconsin. If I had to work outside I'd take up knitting.
I like the folks here and don't want to upset the apple cart so I have and will continue to comment on those I like for whatever reason and leave along those that for whatever reason(s) I don't like as well as some other work. Really sorry if I angered anyone.
Please keep your fingers safe today.