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jscottj

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  1. jscottj
    I made a pull out drawer that is under the workbench top. The drawer has some hardware cloth with 1/2 x 1/2 inch mesh stapled on the open top of the drawer. All overspray goes into the bottom of the drawer. just pull out to spray and close it when done. It was made from scrap wood. No slides just a couple of boards shaped like an "L" the the drawer rests and slides on. Not good looking but it has been there for years
  2. jscottj
    My go to for Dremel supplies is widgetsupply.com.
  3. jscottj
    Great looking work by everyone. Here is what I have been working on. The last one is in process, but should be finished in the next few days. Bruce Worthington and Homer Bishop patterns.
  4. jscottj
    All of the ways described work well. I have used all of them over the years. I tried the contact shelf paper with the pattern attached with spray glue on top of that and found it to be by far the easiest to remove. I can remove it all in one piece even on detailed portraits. I have used all the methods described, but now do the shelf paper almost exclusively unless I am stack cutting some project where a wrap of tape holds it together in the stack also. I am using shelf paper from the dollar store at this time, but not sure it holds quite as well as name brand, but it has not failed yet. I can just tell it doesn't have the same adhesion. Been doing intarsia and smaller scrolling with it. I don't think I would trust it on a detailed portrait like I have done with name brand.
  5. jscottj
    Here's a couple of Halloween projects I've done.
  6. jscottj
    I have a couple small magnets on my flexible light by my saw and place my used blades there for future use. Close and handy
  7. jscottj
    I have made 2 large mops from Klingspor Gold paper using a homemade jig to hold a stack of sheets while cutting the "fingers" using my bandsaw. Steve Good's post from a few years ago was pretty much what I did. With the cost of the paper and the fact that it ruined the bandsaw blade, and the time it took, the savings were fairly minimal in my mind. I might do it again when I have a used blade that would need replaced afterward. Or use a cheap Bosch blade from Lowes ($10 for a 96 inch) that fits my saw. I have a 180 and 220 grit mops
  8. jscottj
    Sheila Landry has some youtube videos where she uses antiquing and staining medium you can buy with the craft paints. It works wonders with the paint also as compared to thinning with water.
  9. jscottj
    I like the light to shadow ratio as it is. I wouldn't change a thing. Looks awesome.
  10. jscottj
    You might check Meisel Hardware as they have a couple of horse drawn wagon patterns that are 3D . Don't know if they will fit your needs or not, but they may help you come up with a solution. http://www.meiselwoodhobby.com/Products/ViewProduct.aspx?id=11793 http://www.meiselwoodhobby.com/Products/ViewCategory.aspx?id=2872 http://www.meiselwoodhobby.com/Products/ViewProduct.aspx?id=44565
  11. jscottj
    I only have experience with the flex drum sanders. I have it mounted on a variable speed grinder as compared to the motors you are looking at. Use them primarily. I also use the small flex sanders from Seyco on a flex shaft run from an old drill in a homemade drill stand. The small flex drums work great on small parts along with a dremel with a flex shaft too. I use all 3 types of sanders on every project. If you pick the Seyco unit, all I can say is I have never regretted choosing that type of sander
  12. jscottj
    I use anything from a craft stick, popsicle stick, paint stir stick, or even scraps of plywood with some double sided tape to hold the piece (or multiple pieces) and the length keeps my fingers clear. Holds well and doesn't affect movement around my flex drum. Works great with a dremel too. I have a jig made of scrap plywood shaped like a capital I that I can clamp onto my work surface that raises a workpiece on a sanding shim/stick (also clamped in place) that is helpful when using a dremel or flex shaft attachment for shaping or flap sanding. Scott
  13. jscottj
    Check out the Eclipse P100 mask that Sheila Landry has posted about. I think I am going to order 1 for myself. Peachtree and Woodcraft both have them. I watched a YouTube video on them also. They are supposed to work well with glasses.
  14. jscottj
    I quickly checked Meisel Hardware, but did not see it there. They have several wine holder plans there also. Possibly Winfield Collections
  15. jscottj
    I get my paper in a roll and the arbors also for the motor from Klingspor. I use rolls that are 2 inches wide and cut the strips into 6 inches long strips. Check out the link below from Steve Good as he explains it excellently. I am working on some smaller ones(similar to the mini flutter wheels Seyco sells) that use a nut and bolt as the arbor to chuck on a drill to power it. I am ordering a flex shaft for the drill to be able to use it like the flex shaft on my dremel. I have used the big mops on scrolled items with great results, but not on the delicate portrait type projects. Using spacers between some of the layers in the mops softens the aggressiveness some too. http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2008/12/make-your-own-sanding-mop-on-cheap.html http://www.woodworkingshop.com/category.aspx?id=22&f5=CLOTH&f1=2%22+X+10
  16. jscottj
    There is a backer that is stained walnut, so it blends in with the sofa seat it was sitting on when my wife took the picture. oops.
  17. jscottj
    I don't have a Sand-flee unit, but I do use 2 mops of 180 and 220 grits that are homemade using pieces from Klingspor and an old dual shaft motor. I followed directions from Steve Good and find it incredibly useful especially on my intarsia. You're going to use them alot.
  18. jscottj
    Made this to commemorate our 30th anniversary. Sue Mey pattern
  19. jscottj
    The 1/2 " cpvc works great. I use a short piece of hot melt glue stick slid into the pipe and a dab of the glue to seal the bottom and a cap for the top. Easy to make a wooden holder to hold them also. I've had one of them in use for over 20 years in my shop.
  20. jscottj
    I purchased one of the BabyBot glue bottles by FastCap and it makes applying glue in small amounts a lot easier. The larger GluBot bottle is great for larger glue ups also. I have been using Titebond with the thicker formula for moldings and such as it doesn't run, has some tack and grab, but dries clear so a little squeeze out doesn't show much.
  21. jscottj
    Probably 26 to 28 years. I replaced my Craftsman starter saw (variable speed plain blades) last summer with an Ex 16. Had to rebuild it a couple of times as parts stayed available until recently.
  22. jscottj
    I'm thinking that they came from the Rick Longabaugh book "Holiday Ornaments for the Scroll Saw". But may also be by Tom Zeig who has a couple of Christmas scroll saw pattern books. I borrowed them from my library in the past. Scott
  23. jscottj
    Incredible! Love that kind of work. When I try to do that intricate cutting I break part of it and ruin it. My 25 year old Craftsman just won't run smooth enough. I have tried spirals in it.....the cuts are ragged looking as it doesn't stroke without some side to side vibration. The breaking is from that vibration I assume. I envy those who can cut so well.
  24. jscottj
    I have in the past. Quality is ok. One good face and one with patches in it like alot of places. They had scroller packs of 12 x 12 pcs at that time also. I bought the sheets nd broke them down myself.
  25. jscottj
    On SWWC facebook page they have a pic of the contents page to see more. Debating if there are enough patterns that suit my fancy. The style of many of the ornaments aren't interesting me too much. I looked at the Holiday issue on the newstand also and passed too.
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