jscottj

I made a pull out drawer that is under the workbench top. The drawer has some hardware cloth with 1/2 x 1/2 inch mesh stapled on the open top of the drawer. All overspray goes into the bottom of the drawer. just pull out to spray and close it when done.  It was made from scrap wood. No slides just a couple of boards shaped like an "L" the the drawer rests and slides on. Not good looking but it has been there for years

My go to for Dremel supplies is widgetsupply.com. 

Great looking work by everyone. Here is what I have been working on. The last one is in process, but should be finished in the next few days. Bruce Worthington and Homer Bishop patterns.

All of the ways described work well.  I have used all of them over the years. I tried the contact shelf paper with the pattern attached with spray glue on top of that and found it to be by far the easiest to remove.  I can remove it all in one piece even on detailed portraits. I have used all the methods described, but now do the shelf paper almost exclusively  unless I am stack cutting some project where a wrap of tape holds it together in the stack also. I am using shelf paper from the dollar store at this time, but not sure it holds quite as well as name brand, but it has not failed yet. I can just tell it doesn't have the same adhesion. Been doing intarsia and smaller scrolling with it. I don't think I would trust it on a detailed portrait like I have done with name brand.

Thanks for the kind comments. As for the question by Sycamore 67, I don't think I do much different from most. I use a flex drum sander on a variable speed grinder as the main sander. I also use a Dremel tool with a flex shaft and 1/2 and 1/4 inch sanding drums and an old corded drill with a flex shaft that I found on Amazon with a small flex drum sander or small mop sander from Seyco. The little flex drum on the flex shaft seems to help with detailing or blending in the Dremel work.  

Haven't posted for quite a while. Been around though and have seen the great work you all have been making. I've gotten back into the shop and gotten a few seasonal projects done.  Bruce Worthington and Garnet Hall patterns

I have a couple small magnets on my flexible light by my saw and place my used blades there for future use. Close and handy

I  have made 2 large mops from Klingspor Gold paper using a homemade jig to hold a stack of sheets while cutting the "fingers" using my bandsaw. Steve Good's post from a few years ago was pretty much what I did. With the cost of the paper and the fact that it ruined the bandsaw blade, and the time it took, the savings were fairly minimal in my mind. I might do it again when I have a used blade that would need replaced afterward. Or use a cheap Bosch blade from Lowes ($10 for a 96 inch) that fits my saw. I have a 180 and 220 grit mops

Sheila Landry has some youtube videos where she uses antiquing and staining medium you can buy with the craft paints. It works wonders with the paint  also as compared to thinning with water.

I like the light to shadow ratio as it is. I wouldn't change a thing. Looks awesome.

You might check Meisel Hardware as they have a couple of horse drawn wagon patterns that are 3D . Don't know if they will fit your needs or not, but they may help you come up with a solution.

http://www.meiselwoodhobby.com/Products/ViewProduct.aspx?id=11793

http://www.meiselwoodhobby.com/Products/ViewCategory.aspx?id=2872

http://www.meiselwoodhobby.com/Products/ViewProduct.aspx?id=44565

I only have experience with the flex drum sanders.  I have it mounted on a variable speed grinder as compared to the motors you are looking at. Use them primarily. I also use the small flex sanders from Seyco on a flex shaft run from an old drill in a homemade drill stand. The small flex drums work great on small parts  along with a dremel with a flex shaft too. I use all 3 types of sanders on every project. If you pick the Seyco unit, all I can say is I have never regretted choosing that type of sander

I have resawn some of my scraps using pushsticks on my bandsaw to make refrigerator magnets, Christmas ornaments, or other types of smalls for box lids etc.

I use anything from a craft stick, popsicle stick, paint stir stick, or even scraps of plywood with some double sided tape to hold the piece (or multiple pieces) and the length keeps my fingers clear. Holds well and doesn't affect movement around my flex drum. Works great with a dremel too. I have a jig made of scrap plywood shaped like a capital I that I can clamp onto my work surface that raises a workpiece on a sanding shim/stick (also clamped in place) that is helpful when using a dremel or flex shaft attachment for shaping or flap sanding.

Scott

Check out the Eclipse P100 mask that Sheila Landry has posted about. I think I am going to order 1 for myself. Peachtree and Woodcraft both have them. I watched a YouTube video on them also. They are supposed to work well with glasses.

I quickly checked Meisel Hardware, but did not see it there. They have several wine holder plans there also. Possibly Winfield Collections

I have my mops on an old electric motor with dual shafts that runs between 1400-1500 rpm 9 (can;t remember the exact speed) . I also have the Porter Cable variable speed grinder like Don has pictured in a previous post with sanders on it . They work very well

What kind of things are you finding hard to do? I have limited experience having done about a dozen intarsia projects, but I will try to help in anyway I can. I"m sure others here will too. I've found the folks here to be  a great resource.  I know it is on a different forum, but there are several pinned topics in the intarsia section at Scroll saw Woodworking and Craft's community forum. They cover several topics that you may find helpful.  Youtube has a few videos, but the Gwinnett Woodworkers Club has a couple of presentations on intarsia including one by Judy Gale Roberts speaking at a meeting. 

Nice job on the lion. You did great on the facial expression with your shaping.

Prayers for strength and support for you and your family.

Beautiful piece, one heck of a gift. I hope she puts that into a pre-nup agreement incase the they part ways.

All kidding aside The detail, fit and shaping are perfect. I assume you used the wonder wheel for the fur. I picked up a new one last year when Judy was at the Fox Chapel open house. It is harder than the original and holds its edge longer.

 

For those of you using a dremel an alternative is a small v groove carving tool, very sharp and watch grain direction. Monsterat the white looks like Aspen unless it is hard.

I don't own a wonder wheel yet. I used a cut off wheel for a dremel with a flex shaft on it using it to grind a groove sorta like the wonder wheel does. I have a couple of dremel carving bits, but find them hard to keep from drifting /pulling in the spring wood to summer wood changes in hardness. Practice may help with that though.

For me, money is tight enough that I don't throw much away at all. I have several small plastic containers and a couple of 3 drawer plastic organizers that hold my scrap. 1 drawer aspen/white wood, another cedar, another oak, etc. I try to save the exotic woods like redheart to very small pieces as the red makes great berries and such small detail items for Christmas items etc. I have a zero clearance table to allow working with small pieces. I even save pieces of 1/8 or 1/4 ply to use as spacers and sanding shims saving the bigger pieces for projects. I use the scrap first if possible, so i don't have an over abundance of it 

Wow I just started working on the same one two days ago!  

Looks good so far. The wood choices look good. How are you going to texture the mane? I don't have a wonder wheel like Judy uses. I used a cut off wheel  for a dremel with a flex shaft on it. Be sure to post the finished project.

Scott ,Those are the biggest king daddy sanding mops i ever seen .Man alive i'd like to try one.I make my own and don't find cloth sandpaper  that much to build a whooper like yours.I found a 1.5" dremil in the store once and never again.It shows up here once in a while ,very small.Another thing i found works good is a wheel with bristles on it .I don't know if it was used for polishing but it too works great as a sanding mop for the fuzzys.Its late so i'm only getting the mops i know they are.IMG_20160725_235853.jpgIMG_20160725_235858.jpgIMG_20160725_235917.jpgIMG_20160725_235908.jpg

I get my paper in a roll and the arbors also for the motor from Klingspor. I use rolls that are 2 inches wide and cut the strips into 6 inches long strips. Check out the link below from Steve Good as he explains it excellently. I am working on some smaller ones(similar to the mini flutter wheels Seyco sells) that use a nut and bolt as the arbor to chuck on a drill to power it. I am ordering a flex shaft for the drill to be able to use it like the flex shaft on my dremel. I have used the big mops on scrolled items with great results, but not on the delicate portrait type projects. Using spacers between some of the layers in the mops softens the aggressiveness some too.

http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/2008/12/make-your-own-sanding-mop-on-cheap.html

http://www.woodworkingshop.com/category.aspx?id=22&f5=CLOTH&f1=2%22+X+10