Bill WIlson

Sweet! I have that book. That very box has been on my "to do" list for some time. Nice work!

Just about any wood is OK for scrolling. You have to weigh all the factors; type of pattern, ease of cutting, appearance, cost, availability, etc and determine what suits you and the project. Like Dan said, pine is OK for when you are first learning & practicing, but has its limitations if you want to get into more detailed fretwork. It just doesn't have the cross grain strength of hard wood or plywood. As you already discovered with the project you posted, it's deflating to put a lot of effort into a piece, only to have a fragile piece break off. CA glue is your friend, by the way. Some woods are better suited for certain types of projects. Plywood (most generally prefer Baltic Birch) is ideal for some things, but I wouldn't use it for everything. I love cutting walnut and cherry hardwood. It's readily available around here, but I wouldn't use either of them for a portrait type cutting. I think the wood should compliment the final result. There are compromises that can be readily made along the way, but ultimately, you want the project to look good. What type of wood you use can have almost as much to do with that as how well it is cut.

I'm curious about all the rust you've encountered. That certainly wouldn't seem to be normal. I presume you aren't cutting outside, so either the previous owner had it in very humid conditions, or perhaps it even goes back further. Stuff that sits around shipping ports for a long time can tend to develop rust in places that you might not notice until you open it up.

Very impressive. Nice work!

I'll say this much Brenda, you don't shy away from a challenge! Well done!

That's all I've ever done. I never use or cut an original paper copy of a pattern. I thought that was some kind of law or something.

I've been using FD New Spirals, mostly the 2/0.

I gotta say that I'm a little surprised and even disappointed that so many scrollers have given up on spirals or maybe never gave them a try. I admit, my first experience with them was about as disastrous as I could imagine and I almost gave up on them for good as well. However, after trying a different brand/batch/type, I've had much better luck with them. I realize they aren't for everyone or everything and they do take some getting used to, but don't be too hasty to write them off.

It is possible to overcome the throat depth limitations of a Dremel, mounted in a drill press base. It's a little clumsy, and I wouldn't recommend it as a standard drilling procedure, but it will work to get those few holes in the middle of some patterns that are beyond the reach using the standard configuration. I take mine, loosen the post clamp and spin the Dremel 180 degrees to the rear of the base. Now I can set the base on top of the wood needing drilled, instead of putting the wood on top of the base. I can drill anywhere without being limited by the post. However, as I said, it's a little awkward. you have to hold down on the base, with one hand, while using the other hand to lower the drill, or else the stand will tip forward. I have a floor stand drill press. The distance between the bit and the post is almost 8". The distance on my Dremel drill press is about 4". This covers about 90 percent of the holes I need to drill for scrolling. For those few that I can't reach with either, in the conventional configuration, I use the technique above and it works fine. I've thought about getting the plunge router base and I think it would be easier, but I've made out OK without one.

I've made this point number of times, regarding spirals. They are well suited for some projects. I personally don't believe that one with straight lines or smooth curves is one of them. I can see the temptation to use a spiral for veining, but if you aren't used to them, I would suggest first cutting the line with a straight blade first, then following with a spiral to open it up. The point about cutting sideways is a good one. Even though a spiral is designed to cut 360 degrees, that doesn't mean it cuts equally well in all directions. The saw and the wood both have something to do with that, as well. When using spirals and wanting to maintain maximum control, especially over a long line, I always cut in the traditional direction, pushing the wood straight into the blade, from the front. Spirals do their best work on portraits, where there are many short, irregular lines. If I'm cutting a portrait and there are any long, smooth lines, I'll substitute a flat blade to cut those. That gives me the best results. IMHO the '57 Fairlane pattern is not well suited for spiral blades. I know guys who use a spiral for everything, even traditional fretwork, so it can be done. However, my personal opinion is that spirals and straight blades aren't intended to be used interchangeably.

I've been using Loctite 100 General Performance Spray Adhesive. It's about the cheapest I could find around here and it works fine, for me. I get it at Lowes. As for pin end blades, don't be surprised if you don't get too many answers. Most scrollers don't use pin end blades. Plain end blades are almost universally preferred and come in a lot more variety of sizes and tooth configurations. If you must use a pin end and the fret is small, use the smallest drill that will allow the pin end to pass through. If space is no issue, use whatever size is handy.

Well done Brenda. Now that you see what spirals are capable of and what you are capable of, you may find that you end up using them more than you might think.

You aren't out of order at all. I think most of us sign our work, in some form or fashion. To me, it isn't pretentiousness, it's practical. It can help future generations know who made a piece. Most of my stuff is given as gifts to friends and family. That's the first thing most of them look for is to make sure I signed it. Your signature is beautifully done. Mine is simply my initials and the year the piece was made. I typically use a fine point sharpie, occasionally a paint pen or something similar.

Oooookaaay, I totally misread that question. Like some others have mentioned, I use pyramid shaped standoffs a lot when finishing. I made a couple dozen of them out of 1 1/2" square pine, with the ends cut to a point, on the miter saw. If I dip something in oil, I usually wipe as much of the excess off as possible, then use my compressor to gently blow out the nooks & crannies.

Not John, but here's my $.02. I use regular old, worn out t-shirts. They've been washed so many times, there is no lint left. As for hanging oily rags, you can hang them any way you like, just make sure they are spread out and air can get to them. I usually take mine outside and spread them over the edge of the fire ring or a bucket. You do not want to ball them up and stuff them in a garbage can or pile them up in a corner. Balling them up allows heat to build and other debris in a garbage can gives them additional fuel to burn, if they ignite. This also applies to rags used to apply oil based stains. Most oil based stains use Linseed oil as the binder for the pigments. These can also be a fire hazard.

Good stuff John. I find that I do most of those things, but usually without thinking about it. I think that being self taught, one will eventually discover a lot of these tips and tricks just by trial & error (maybe more error than trial ). I doubt I could have explained any of them as clearly and concisely as you did.

Yes, likely someone picked it up in one place and put it back in the wrong one.

No. In order to do it correctly, you're supposed to have 3 drill presses.

About the only time I worry about trying to match the drill bit to the blade is when making veining cuts. The closer the entry hole is to the size of the blade, the less obvious it is. Otherwise, I let the size of the fret dictate the size of the drill. I typically use 3 different sizes; 1/16" for most frets where there is plenty of room, a little bitty one (#56, I think) for most small frets and an itsy, bitsy, teenie one (#72, I think) for anything that is too small for the other 2 sizes.

Mess? What mess? Heck my shop doesn't look that neat on it's best day.

I pretty much follow the same rule of thumb as Kevin. However, another variable to consider is the pattern and which blade is being used. If I'm cutting something very detailed and delicate, I want to use the smallest blade practical. That may limit how thick I can make the stack. In such an example, I may limit myself to 1/2" or 5/8" thick. If the pattern is simpler and I can use a larger blade, then I may go up to 1", but that's pretty rare for me.

Bob used to be on the staff at Fox Chapel Publishing and moderated the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts forum. He recently took a position as National Sales Manager for Grobet USA. He's very in tune with the scrolling community and it's no surprise to me that he came through for you.

Those are really cool. Nice work. Are they small enough they could be adapted as a Christmas ornament?

Never heard of that, but agree, that if you are curious, there is no harm in trying it. My gut tells me that if you aren't having luck with spirals, you won't have luck with this method either, but who knows? Worth a shot. If nothing else, I'd be interested in hearing the results.

Hey, the stuff grows on trees around here.