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Bill WIlson

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Everything posted by Bill WIlson

  1. Bill WIlson
    There are plans out there for shop built, flip top tool stands. They are made to be used by 2 bench top style tools. Put it on a mobile base and you have a lot of utility that takes up very little floor space. Here's an example. Again, I understand floor space is at a premium, but with some consolidation and portability in mind, there are possibilities. Just food for thought!
  2. Bill WIlson
    Benchtops have a pretty small footprint. I'd be lost without my planer. I had it before I got in to scrolling, but I don't think I would ever have pursued scrolling much if I didn't have a planer.
  3. Bill WIlson
    That's what I first thought. I looked at that picture several times and it seems for all the world like the motor is sitting on a bracket, mounted to the back of the saw. I looked up a PDF of the manual and discovered that it was a belt driven saw, with the drive pulley on the back, left hand side of the saw, which is consistent with the picture. Just looked like an awful big motor for that saw.
  4. Bill WIlson
    I'm slowly coming to the conclusion that bread is pure dietary evil. Unfortunately, I love bread. So far no problems with glucose, but definitely need to drop some weight. Considered giving up bread, but I have a feeling that will be a non-starter for me.
  5. Bill WIlson
    Wow, is that thing belt driven, from that motor hanging off the back? That must be a golden oldie!
  6. Bill WIlson
    Danish oil can be referred to as an "in the wood" finish. It doesn't build a film on top of the surface of the wood in the way that polyurethane or lacquer or even shellac does. It is intended to give more of a hand rubbed, low luster finish to the wood. It does contain some polyurethane, so it does have a slight film component to it, making it different than a true oil finish, like linseed or tung oil. For anyone interested and perhaps finding it difficult to get Danish oil where they live, you can readily make your own by simply mixing equal portions of BLO, polyurethane (or varnish) and mineral spirits. You can adjust the proportions to suit your needs and tastes. More poly/varnish gives more luster and slightly more of a protective coating. More oil gives more of the low sheen, hand rubbed look. More mineral spirits makes the mix thinner, easier to apply.
  7. Bill WIlson
    If you want to stay more in the range of natural earth tone colors, you could go with shellac. Shellac (the flake variety) comes in a multitude of tones that start with an almost clear, very faint amber tint all the way up to a very deep reddish brown. The shellac could then be both colorant and finish. You could also mix alcohol based dyes with the shellac to expand the pallet of colors available, even more.
  8. Bill WIlson
    Now that's brilliant!
  9. Bill WIlson
    Just a general word of caution. Shellac contains a natural wax. You can get shellac that has had the wax removed (de-waxed). It is recommended that you only apply poly over de-waxed shellac. Polyurethane is notorious for being difficult to adhere to. That is one reason they recommend that you scuff sand previous coats of poly before applying additional coats (if more than the specified # of hours have passed since the previous coat was applied). Anyway, shellac containing it's natural wax may prevent the polyurethane from bonding properly. Admittedly, I haven't read of too many real world examples where a finish failed because of this, but it is conventional wisdom and standard practice when it comes to finishing wood.
  10. Bill WIlson
    I've used 1/4" walnut, red oak and other open grained woods for fretwork. They hold up fine. I've gone down to 3/16" thick with no real problems. I've done thinner, but you have to be selective in the pattern if you use 1/8" hardwood. If I want something that thin, I typically go to BB ply. Like any other wood, narrow cross grain sections will be fragile, but I don't think walnut is inherently weaker than maple.
  11. Bill WIlson
    Shoulda seen the looks I got when I tried to explain what happened to the nurse at MedExpress.
  12. Bill WIlson
    Last time I tried that, I cut my lip.
  13. Bill WIlson
    I think the point here, Dutchscroller, is to not over think this. Everyone has their own individual comfort level when it comes to cutting speed (both blade speed and feed rate). It may vary, depending on the material, blade, saw and pattern, but you will quickly find yours. I tend to change my blade speed as conditions change, but some run at one speed all the time. I rarely run the saw wide open, but that may be the norm for others. It's all about control and comfort level and we all have different requirements in those areas.
  14. Bill WIlson
    Glad to hear you are on the mend. With the holidays, I'm sure the next 2 weeks will fly by.
  15. Bill WIlson
    My first scroll saw sat level, on a home made stand. I replaced it with a DeWalt, which I used tilted for many years. When I got my EX, I first made it level to see if, after all these years, it really made any difference. I ended up putting it back on a tilt. I think it's intended to be more ergonomic, but whether or not there is any tangible benefit, only you can determine.
  16. Bill WIlson
    I agree with Dan that the bigger safety question is the size of the puzzle pieces. Look for patterns for simple puzzles, with only 3 or 4 pieces, that are large enough not to pose a choking hazard. As for a finish, for that age of child, I would opt for no finish. Just use a hardwood, with a tight, close grain, such as maple, and leave them unfinished. Not that the finish is a hazard. Like Dan said, all wood finishes, sold in the USA, are non-toxic, once fully cured, so you don't really have to worry about it. It's just that there really isn't much benefit to be gained by putting a finish on a puzzle for a 1 to 3 year old child. If you want to use something, I suggest shellac.
  17. Bill WIlson
    I would fill out my profile, but when I entered the Witness Protection Program, they warned me about giving out too much personal information.
  18. Bill WIlson
    Sometimes the question of art vs craft comes up, relative to scrollsawing. I submit that Ms Kingdon is exhibit A for the artist side of that debate.
  19. Bill WIlson
    Makes quite a difference, doesn't it? I got my EX-21 from Seyco and it was already set up for a less aggressive cutting motion. I fiddled with it once when I was doing some compound cutting in hardwood and forgot to change it back. I didn't do much scrolling for a period of time. When I got back to it, I couldn't figure out why I was having so much trouble controlling the cut, in some thin stock. I thought I had lost my touch, then it occurred to me that I had adjusted it for max aggressiveness and I set it back and all is well.
  20. Bill WIlson
    Thanks for the review. I think Rolf was referring to your above comment when he mentioned the front to back motion. On this style saw, there is an adjustment that can be done to make it cut more or less aggressively. If it seems like the saw is cutting too fast, you may want to dial it back a little. There should be instructions for how to do this in the manual.
  21. Bill WIlson
    OK, I saw those, but the picture on the website shows the sleigh bodies made out of much thinner stock. I totally missed that yours were the same pattern, but with thicker stock. Thanks and again, very nicely done!
  22. Bill WIlson
    Very nice! I really like those sleighs. I went to Sheila's site, but couldn't find that pattern. Can you point me in the right direction? Thanks.
  23. Bill WIlson
    I've been following this thread with great interest. Lots of good info to be had here.
  24. Bill WIlson
    Toothpick, tweezers and Alene's Tacky Glue are working pretty well for me. It is time consuming though. I'm considering switching to CA glue to attach the figures in the manger, but will probably stick with the ATG. (pun not intended )
  25. Bill WIlson
    Looking good trackman! I'm in the middle of making about 112 of those right now. Are you going to install screw eyes in them, for hanging?
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