Bill WIlson

Flying Dutchman does offer flat end blades, but not in their smallest sizes. I generally use the 2/0 spiral, sometimes a 3/0 and they aren't available in the flat end, so I end up untwisting them. I use 2 pair of pliers. I grip the end of the blade, about an inch or so from the end with one pair and use it to hold it like a vise. Then I use the other pair to untwist the blade. The important thing is to get both ends in approximately the same plane, when flattening/untwisting. Makes getting them in the clamps easier. I tried the hammer it flat method when I first started using spirals. I didn't have much luck with it. Many of the blades broke shortly after applying tension. I think I had a bad batch of blades, but I've developed my technique for straightening them with the pliers and it works for me, so I haven't gone back to hammering them.

I've never tried doing what you propose, but it is an intriguing idea. I would probably start with cutting the letter and filling that void first. Then cut the outside. I think it will yield better results, but there certainly is no harm in testing both methods to see which one works best in actual practice. I'll be interested to see results.

I've had 2 saws with factory stands, a DeWalt and an EX-21. Both have been very good. I think the key to OEM stands is that the legs are splayed. This adds stability without adding excess weight. If you do experience some vibration, most stands have a lower frame, tying the legs together. Add a piece of plywood on top and you have a shelf. Put some weight on that shelf and it will help dampen vibration.

I personally have no interest in CNC or laser machines for my woodworking. Sure they are cool and do some pretty neat stuff, but adding that arrow to my quiver, just doesn't appeal to me. I have nothing against it, per se, so I don't really have a dog in the fight. However, I do recall discussions that we had in the early days of our scroll saw club. It was the position of the founding members (most now either deceased or no longer able to be active in the club) that computer based machines, that could mimic scrollsawn work, were not to be part of the club's interests and activities. I think most of the resistance to this technology was rooted in the fact that laser made items were showing up at craft shows and competing directly with "hand made" scrollsawn items. Usually at a much lower price. The casual observer didn't necessarily know the difference as the laser cut vendors weren't necessarily advertising how their items were made. THey would tell you, if you asked, but it wasn't like they had a sign in front of their booth proclaiming such. Many of our club members thought this was dishonest and was unfair competition for the traditional scrollers, especially considering the fact that these items were mass produced and generally imported. Not exactly in keeping with the spirit of the small town craft show ethos. Since then, the technology has advanced and become much more affordable and accessible to the adventuresome hobbiest. I think this has changed the dynamic a bit and helped computer based machines be more accepted in the crafting community. Like I said, no dog in the fight. Just wanted to offer that perspective.

I get my BB ply from a local lumberyard that deals in hardwoods, plywood and millwork. Never had that problem, but I feel your pain.

I use this type of CA glue. It's more expensive, but the cap seems to do a good job of preventing the tip from clogging. I've never had an issue with that. Never had a bottle dry out on me either.

Nicely done!

Fortunately my drill press has a good chuck and will hold even the smallest of numbered drills. I also have a Dremel with the chuck that Rolf linked that works very well. I have a pin vise somewhere, but I never liked it and haven't used it in years.

I generally make stuff that appeals to me, even if it ends up being given to someone else. I don't make things to sell, so most of what I make is of a pattern, style and material of my own choosing and on my own schedule. Thus they become "fun cuts" sort of by default. Building an inventory of items to sell them does not appeal to me at all. I admire those who are disciplined enough to do that. A good example of what I consider a "fun cut" is Christmas ornaments. I make dozens of them every year and have been doing it for many years. It's become part of my annual holiday tradition. Even though I am making large quantities of the same ornament, I choose the pattern and material that appeals to me. I listen to Christmas music non-stop, while in the shop. The whole effort serves to put me in the spirit of the season. Giving them away and seeing the reactions of the recipients is the pay off. While I'm glad when I'm all done with them each year, I always look forward to doing it again next year.

Niqua is the manufacturer of the blades. They are marketed under the Flying Dutchman name in the US.

Seal Coat can be used as a top coat. It is simply shellac with the natural wax removed. This allows it to be used underneath other finishing products, such as polyurethane, which don't bind well to most coatings.

It's all a matter of context and perception. Straight lines, clean corners and sharp points are definitely critical in many types of fretwork. Also, the thicker the material being cut, the more noticeable the cut is, so proper blade selection for the application is important. Portrait patterns are typically cut from thin material, so those details don't catch the eye nearly as much. I've often said that spirals are the perfect blade for certain types of projects, but by no means are they suitable for everything, IMHO. Knowing their strengths and weaknesses and where to apply them simply makes them another tool in the toolbox.

Very nicely done! Although, I would have thought that when you turned the piece over, the horses would be going uphill?

That looks well done to me. I don't think you have anything to fear from spirals. Generally speaking, the good thing about patterns that lend themselves well to spiral blades, is that the lines are typically unstructured and almost abstract, in and of themselves. If you wander off the pattern line a bit, you will never notice in the finished piece, unless you happen to over cut and lose a section.

Sounds to me like the RPM's are pretty high for a sanding mop. Can you use it on a drill press and slow the speed down some? Try different speeds to see what gives you the best combination of sanding effectiveness and control.

How many RPM's does the Guinever run at?

It seems to me that flattening warped stock is a bit larger job than what most of these kinds of sanders were designed for. Traditionally a jointer is used to flatten warped or twisted boards. It can also be done with a planer, but these tools are designed to remove a lot more material than belt sanders are, making them more effective at the task. A sander would work, but be prepared to make a lot of passes to get the board flat.

Though I don't have one, I've always thought that would be the perfect application for a sanding mop

You ain't kiddin'. I'm surprised that passed muster with the CPSC.

Beautiful! I love those classic, fretwork clocks.

Just have to be careful that the spring clamps don't generate enough pressure to close the kerf too much and pinch the blade, creating more friction and heat.

You might like the Polar blades a little better than the UR for compound cutting. Lots of variables in how many blades it takes to cut a piece. One is the hardness of the material being cut. Another is the blade being used. Add in technique, blade speed, feed rate and there are any number of reasons why one could break a lot of blades. Ultimately, if you are having success with what you are doing, then no real reason to change anything. Practice will yield consistent and improved results.

Overcutting is a symptom of over aggressiveness. This could be the saw, the blade or the operator, or any combination of the 3. What kind of saw do you have? Excalibur style saws can be adjusted to be more or less aggressive in the cutting stroke. For delicate stuff like this, I use the smallest blade that is practical. I also avoid using a fresh, sharp blade for these cuts. Being a little dull gives you more control. Use caution when drilling entry holes, because if they are too close to the line and there is blowout on the back, it will weaken the bridge to the point that giving it the stink eye will cause it to break. Cutting thicker stock offers more resistance to the blade and helps provide a little more control. Also, slowing down both glade speed and feed rate helps. Finding the right blend of all of these factors is the key to successfully cutting delicate fretwork.

I bought my EX-21 from Seyco and got it in February of 2016. I think it was shortly thereafter that the Taiwan made saws were suddenly no longer available. It took a while before Chinese made saws started showing up. If she's had it 5 years, I suspect it wasn't a Chinese made saw.

Any way to loosen up the fit a little? If the parts are so tight now, any finish is going to interfere. If all surfaces aren't sealed, then you introduce the potential for expansion/contraction with humidity changes.