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Jim Finn

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Everything posted by Jim Finn

  1. I have put the quick clamp on the bottom, also, and it seemed to work. I do not do fretwork, I do inlay. For inlay, feeding is not what I need to do so often , so I went back to bottom feeding.
  2. I bought small fans meant to be used in an office for individual comfort. It just blows the dust away on all my three scroll saws, my drill press, and my, in table, router. Different strokes.
  3. Lots of sanding! Many years ago I made a full sized wooden football. LOTS of sanding.
  4. This is a small cedar box with the Mustang logo inlayed into the hinged lid. Inlayed using my scroll saw with the "double bevel inlay" method. I have done other car logos like this but have no photos of them.
  5. In the past, I have cut the bottom 1/2" of the dull blade off. This works well if your saw will accommodate the shortened blade.
  6. it is an obsolete tool , I think but serves me well. I also have one like this https://www.autotoolworld.com/Dremel-220-01-WorkstationRotary-Tool-Attachment_p_165875.html?.html?msclkid=30b3b49aec8f12d09bc5d401dd63babf&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=Google Shopping&utm_term=4585238368591926&utm_content=All Products but it is fixed at 90 degrees so I built a sloping base to the angle I need.
  7. As you know, I also do a LOT of inlays. To make my starter holes I use a small "Radial" drill press with a small (Black and Decker) rotary tool with a 1/16" bit. (Smaller bits flex too much to suit me.) Takes up very little space on my bench. I do have a drill press from Grizzly that I use a lot in making toys. I chose it (it is no longer offered at Grizzly) because it has 12 speeds and some are very slow. Slow enough to spin my 6" hole saw slow enough. That is why I choose it. Mine is a bench top drill press but I wished I had purchased a floor model. I realized that the taller unit uses the same amount of floor space, in my small shop, as mine does. I have had this one since 2010 and only had one issue. I had to replace the switch and Grizzly had one at a reasonable cost. I have tried to use bits smaller than 1/16" in it but they snapped off quickly. I still do not do fretwork.
  8. I have made and sold a few of these and the one of the gal batting I gave to a childhood friend for his granddaughter. All made on scroll saw using double bevel inlay, on cedar box lids.
  9. WHEN I do inlay, for the light wood, I use Hard maple (Preferred) soft maple or Basswood. ((linden?) Holly is the whitest I am told. Aspin would also work well. Poplar not so much. I inlay into Eastern red cedar, and oak does not contrast well with it , in my opinion.
  10. Yes angle about 2 degrees using 3/8" thick wood. This is a cedar box 10"x8"x2" deep. No backer board needed.
  11. I did the mice the same way I did the first one, the horse. It is called "double bevel inlay" (Or marquetry) It requires an inlay for each color is all. Six separate inlays. One against/over the other. Like this one with only three colors.
  12. This is what I have been working on this week. Using lathe and scroll saw. about 7" long tanker. I have made 20 of each so far
  13. I actually started making toys, and still do, but my main interest is Double bevel inlay. The horse is my first (which I sold) the second is my favorite (which I gave away).
  14. Our club is invited to make toys for Lubbock Christian University each year for their Christmas event for children. Also, I make an item they use as a door prize. This year a cedar box with their theme, this year, which is "Charley brown Christmas". Image on the 10"x7" box is inlaid using the "double bevel inlay" method using my scroll saw. Reindeer are 3D cuts on scroll saw.
  15. Thanks.... I have not made bandsaw boxes in years. I will make more when I accumulate more suitable wood scraps. Sales were so bad this year that all I have been making are pine toys to give away. A relaxing activity though.
  16. Thanks. They sold quickly.
  17. I have glued together many scraps into blocks and made band saw boxes with them,
  18. I scroll for hours at a time, so I am seated in an office chair. I lowered my saw table to the same height as the chair seat. Saw table level, not raised in the back. Works for me.
  19. I "escaped " Racine in 1979 and never looked back. I am also 78.
  20. I have found that Red Oak bends well. I have bent 1/8" red oak after soaking in water for 3-4 days and bending into place around a form.
  21. Because of the VERY slow sales year I have been making a lot of toys that our club gives to various charitable organizations. This is the latest. 7" long made of 3/4" pine board. It floats upright and cannot be tipped over.
  22. I went to the link you posted and you are on the right track. I am a retired Sheetmetal worker and have installed MILES of metal duct but being as cheap as I am, I made my own wyes. Had I known what little they cost I would have bought the ones you choose in your link. Finding 26 gauge 6" snap lock pipe may be a challenge. I used a brush on sealer instead of tape. Not pretty though. I ran my 6" duct along the wall , on the floor. This eliminates a lot of duct going up to the ceiling and back down to the equipment and to the dust collector. For flexible sections I used the cheap aluminum foil and wire duct. Still holding up well.
  23. I used 6" metal pipe for my system, Not spiral, snap lock.
  24. I do not do any fretwork but I do stack cut toy parts. I fasten the layers together using hot glue. Works well for me.
  25. I had a $150 Senco pin nailer that worked well for a few years but then needed constant repairs. I finally trashed it and now use a $25 harbor freight pin nailer and it is working well. I use 5/8" pins mostly but also have 1" and 3/4 " pins.
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