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Everything posted by Jim Finn
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3d cut on scroll saw and a drilled out wheel for the halo. I used a beefed up ornament pattern to make this durable enough for a toy. 5" tall
- 50 replies
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- march 2018
- scroll saw challenge
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My eyes can seldom see the burrs on the blades so...
Jim Finn replied to new2woodwrk's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I have the blades with the dimple at the top and they cut well but a problem arises if I break one of them while doing inlay. Because my Hegner saw is a bottom feeder I find it impossible to get the dimpled blade up through the saw cut where the blade broke. Through the starting hole is no problem but getting it up through the sawcut is impossible. I need to hammer that dimple flat to make this work. Yes, I could top feed it, but that is awkward for me because I do not like to get on my kees to be able to see under the table to insert the bottom of the blade into the clamp there. In future I will not buy these blades. -
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I have three scroll saws. I bought a new Hegner polymax-3 and then a 1986 25" Hegner multimax-3 as back up (that I have never needed). I found an old Jet saw on craigslist that I paid $15 for. I use the Jet when I need to take a saw with me to a sale or a demonstration. I keep it stored under my bench. It is single speed but smooth running and light to transport. I do a LOT of inlay work. I have my Polymax saw tilted to the angle I need to do inlays and the Multimax is not tilted and use it to do all other cuts.
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Thank you all for the kind words. The whiskers are just saw cuts filled with my standard filler made of white glue and sanding dust. I no longer put that walnut spot around that one eye. Still looks good and one less inlay step. I am trying to mass produce these so in an effort to keep the cost and inlay time down I have eliminated it.
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" I use one Pattern and Just put the different wood under it for the next color." I do index the pattern on the background so that I can place it to the exact same spot again. I need to do this after inlaying the body of this puppy in order to redraw the interior inlays on it, like the eyes and mouth etc. I use a printed pattern and carbon paper for applying the image to the wood. Yes it can be tricky.
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Each color is just a separate inlay. In this case four.
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Ok Here is a photo of one of these done in cedar. I used ash instead of oak for the main body. Ash is lighter than the oak I had and gives more contrast to the cedar. I made three of these, so far.
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I like using Ash to inlay into cedar. Looks a lot better (to me) with cedar than oak does.
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RBI vs Hegner and are they worth the upgrade?
Jim Finn replied to Gonzo's topic in General Scroll Sawing
The main plus on Hegners is that it will last forever. I killed a new Dewalt in under two years. I worked it too hard. If I did fretwork I would consider a different saw than a Hegner but I do not do fretwork. -
Something New For The New Year - Scroll Saw Challenge
Jim Finn replied to Travis's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I have made "shaker boxes" myself but first I made "Tiner" (the plural of TIne, pronounced "tina") They are traditionally made of norwegian pine and painted . I made mine of oak and had it painted. Red Oak bends very well. Easier than pine does. I stopped making them years before I started doing inlay. Lots of work, came out fine, very hard to sell. First photo is painted and the other two are decoupage.- 22 replies
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- resolution
- january
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The color depends on what woods I find in my scrap bin, to use. I do not plan to use any more corian. These images are on pine boxes so the oak I used in the bodies contrasts well, but I am not fond of the combination of cedar and oak. I plan to make cedar boxes, in the future, along with the pine. I will experiment a bit. You will notice the puppy image is different that the first one I posted. I forgot to put in the one walnut spot over his eye. Still works well, though. I wanted to get the two colors that were in the oak that I used for the kitty body so the grain is running vertical, on this one, not my normal way of doing that.
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I like the puppy also. I made four of them and was showing them to the wife of another woodworker and she said " you need a kitten one also". So I made two kitten ones. I need to make more of each before my sales year starts in June 2018.
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Thanks everyone for the kind comments. I found the corian to cut slowly and fused together after the cut, Had to go around twice to get it loose. I do not care for the look of it. Too flat. Not sure I will ever use it again. Now I know.
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These boxes are made of pine and measure 8"x6"x3" outside dimensions. The grey in the kitten is corian. This was my first use of corian. Both images are inlaid into the hinged lid
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Something New For The New Year - Scroll Saw Challenge
Jim Finn replied to Travis's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Something new that I have not tried? let me think...... ah yes, fretwork.- 22 replies
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- resolution
- january
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I was able to pull one of the halos off so I switched to using epoxy on all the rest I have made.
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I was also concerned about the halo coming off. I apply it with just white glue. I tried to pull it off and could not. I suspect if this toy is dropped and lands on that halo it may break even though it is a hardwood wheel/halo.
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I have been making a lot of compound cut figures using a pattern from Diana Thompson's book. I altered the pattern a bit to make it more robust so it can be used as a toy. Originally designed as an ornament. The halo is a wooden toy wheel.3/4" drilled out a bit. Total height is 4 1/4" made from a two by four.
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This is how I approach this issue: First, I avoid block letters when doing inlay. Cursive is much more forgiving. I do a little block lettering when needed and I use the same method for cutting the inside of a D or an A or other letters like that. I just cut right through the letter to get to the inside, and cut the inside out keeping the letter to the right of my blade at all times. (I have my left side of my saw table tilted down and the wood to be inlaid on the underside) After cutting out the inside piece and removing it, I back the running saw blade out of the inside of the letter where I entered. Then continue on with the outside of the letter. When gluing the letter in place I insert the inlay from the back side and then turn the piece over and glue in the center part from the front. Works like a charm.
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I bought a 15" Jet saw that was made in 1988, I paid $15 for it and have used it a lot for three years now. Single speed induction motor. I do not do fretwork so I do not need quick change blade holders. I have upgraded the blade clamps with clamps from Hegner.
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I have the stockroom "V" sander, they call it. Much like the sand flea. I do not use it at all anymore. It is stuffed under my bench.
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Same pattern , different woods. One, Pine, maple, and bois d'arc and one cedar, basswood, and bois d'arc. Boxes measure 6"x8"x3" 3/8" thick wood.
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I have made and sold some of those crosses, that I made of mahogany. This pine is MUCH easier and quicker to cut. I just may make more to sell next summer. One guy bought me out two years ago (five of them). He said he was giving them to primary donors at his church. I also made some much larger ( 6" tall) using my bandsaw and making them in two pieces and glueing them together and adding a base.
