Jim Finn
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Everything posted by Jim Finn
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Very nice! I need to try this.
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As others have said...Foot switch is the answer and the cheapest for you. (Harbor freight)
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I have had this problem with small drums that are used in a Dremel type tool. I now stretch the sanding sleeve a bit by rotating a needle nosed pliers inside the new sanding sleeve. It then fits on the mandrel easier.
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Ok I think I misunderstood. You were saying a quick release blade and meant a quick blade release, I bet.
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Thanks to this forum - Some Beginning - Non Intarsia Beginner Projects
Jim Finn replied to meflick's topic in Bragging Rights
Meflick; You might like to try doing some "double bevel inlay" work. I do it a lot and it sells well. All you need for that are basic scroll saw skills and you seem to already have them. -
I bought a new Dremel and plunge base.
Jim Finn replied to hawkeye10's topic in General Scroll Sawing
".....the 4000 model and at it's slowest speed which is 5000 RPM it seems under powered...." This is the reason my Dremel tool stays in the drawer. I use a Black and Decker rotary tool. It is three speed (not variable) and I use it on the slowest speed to drill my entry holes using a 1/16" bit. This tool does not loose power at lower speeds as much as the Dremel does. I bought my Black and Decker rotary tool at Walmart for $28 eight years ago. A great tool.
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OK ....what is a "quick release blade"? Does Olsen sell them? I have had some "inadvertent release" blades but I doubt that is what you mean.
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Have you tried putting Hegners quick clamp on the bottom instead of the top? Or both places? I have, and still do not like to top feed because I have to bend down to see what is happening under the saw table to get the blade in the clamp. I bottom feed and to get the Hegner harm to lift higher I have removed the rubber bumpers at the back of the saw arms. I watched a Steve Good video the other day and was surprised to hear him say that most people bottom feed.
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I use wipe on poly on my boxes and on smaller thinner items I just dip them in thinned poly and allow to drip dry with just a little wiping on the bottoms. 2-3 coats usually does it. (I like to use naphtha to thin poly) Some times I apply a thin coat of spray poly over all this.
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Most of my wall hung items are thicker than 1/8" but on occasion I have added a small strip of wood to make it thicker where needed. I make my own metal hangers, bent using a pair of pliers and 1/4" screws to attach them through punched holes.
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My plan is to make a band saw box using a 6"-8" log 8" long with the bark still on it.. Not a slice of a log. This is why I am thinking of covering the whole log with poly. The Pecan tree has aready been cut so I have no control over that.
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Bois'darc (French for "Wood of the bow") is a very hard wood. Pronounced "Bow-dark" here in west Texas. I have used it a lot as a yellow inlay. I have access to, "bark on," pecan and plan to make a band saw box using it. I had planned on using lots of poly over the whole thing to try to keep the bark in place. Will this not work?
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Another approach to making frames is to cut the last cut, (the only one that is a problem) using your scroll saw. I saw a video once from Japan, I think, where the guy cut all four corners with a scroll saw and did not go for a straight line. He ended up with wavy miter joints. I have not tried this (I do not make frames) but it may be worth a try. What he did was, overlap all four corners, hot glue them together, and make the wavy cut using a scroll saw.
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No backing. Poly. I dip them and lay on rack. Two coats usually does it. I sometimes put another light spray on coat from a rattle can. I see rolls of cork at my hardwood supplier but have not priced it yet. May put a cork backer on some and see how that works.
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Saturday, a lady that had bought a set of coasters came back and bought fifteen more sets. ($75) She is from Colorado and wants to give them to friends and relatives in Colorado to remind them of her visit here. I have made "no seller" items but at a higher price point. Here is an example of vases that I could not sell for $40. Gave away three of them finally. I thought sure they would sell but not to be.
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Some shape other than your state may work. I don't know....hearts? Stars? chrtistmas trees? church shape? Paw print? etc.......... States that do have distinctive shapes that may work for this are: Florida, Wisconsin, Illinois, Kentucky, Minnesota, Idaho, and even Oklahoma.
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I do inlaid images in cedar and, when finished, I have the cut outs that are not used. I have been selling them very cheaply, and giving them away for years. Last month a customer suggested I use the cutouts of Texas as coasters so I tried it. Sold out in a heart beat. I have since made and sold over 250 of them. I sell them four for $5. A great price point at the farmers market. Some of them are 3/8" thick and others are less than 1/4". Thickness seems to not matter to the buyers. I am now making some of scrap 1/4" plywood. I ran out of my whole scrap horde of various other woods, making them. I stack cut them and dip them in Poly a few coats and then a spray finish of poly. Attached is a photo of some I made of a mystery wood I had. It may be cherry.
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Jamminjack: I have offered these bellows at about seventy five sales for $25 and only sold three. $40 is a reasonable price for me but alas few will pay that. (in fact only one in 10 years)
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I use both. I find Olson blades outlast FD blades for the work I do.
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Over the past 30+ years I have made over fifty fireplace bellows. This is how I got started in woodworking. At first I carved images into the bellows front and then moved to using tooled leather images and finally a few years ago I started doing inlay on them. I do not make many any more because there is not much of a market for them, These are decorative and functional fireplace bellows made of cedar, in this case, with maple inlay..It measures 15" end to end. The brass nozzle is made using a 30-30 shell. I turn the whole bellows in a lathe to form the handle and the nozzle ends. I purchase the leather used in this at Tandy. This bellows was made to order.
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I changed the pattern a bit and made a few more.
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In my efforts to make new and different toys for our local children's hospitals I made this. I plan to make a lot of these. I made it from 2"x6" pine construction board. The body of this reindeer is 3/4" thick and the legs are 3/8" thick. 7 1/2" tall
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A sled/jig for a table saw will also work well to cut 45° miters.
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This system works well. I have used it for, one of a kind, boxes. I make box frames similar to this 20-30 at a time and I have made a jig/frame to hold the four sides upright. I apply glue as is shown in the photos, but then just set the four sides together and "clamp" this assembly with four rubber bands. No tape.
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I use mdf to make AK 47's toys. I do not cut it often. My workshop benches are topped with it also.
