Jim Finn
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Everything posted by Jim Finn
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I just toss about three bushels of it a month. Trash truck takes it. I have tried composting it but the result does not help plants. It consumes nitrogen for many years, as it decomposes, I am told.
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Two tips: To use more of your blade teeth you can cut off the bottom 3/4" of a dulled blade reinstall, and you will then be using the unused teeth. Not sure all saws will accommodate the shorter blade but all mine will. I have an $8 hair dryer blowing the dust off of my work as I saw.
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I had bad experiances in using a shop vac to collect the dust while scrolling. It worked well to get rid of the dust but I killed three shop vacs before I gave up on the idea. One was a large , new Ridged. I think they are made to run for shorter periods of time than I used them while scrolling.
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Welcome! I like to mention to new scrollers that there are many different ways to use a scroll saw. Most folks do mainly fretwork. I do not. Some of the other projects done using a scroll saw include: Lettering, compound cutting, bowl and basket making, inlay, toy making, intarsia, segmentation, puzzles, and even making wooden flowers and vases. All are fun.
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After a bit of experience, I can now inlay one inch tall letters using my scroll saw. Would that fit? Before doing it that way, I printed out what I wanted and glued it to the wood and applied many, many layers of finish over it. (Decoupage)
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Give the seller a chance to correct your problems. I bought a new, top of the line, Hegner and it vibrated badly. ( About the most expensive saw out there). I talked to the seller, Advanced Machinery, and they sent me some replacement parts and that fixed the problem. I have had it six years now with no more problems.
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I recommend a ceiling mounted air cleaner:
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Hello and requesting help with "flexing" blade issue
Jim Finn replied to Iguanadon's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I had a similar problem years ago when I was making thick puzzles and found I needed to change blades often , slow way down on feed rate, slow down saw speed, make longer sweeping turns, and tension the blade as much as possible. -
I have used this item on my Hegners and on my Jet scroll saw with no problems.
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I use thicker MDF (3/4") making toys with my scroll saw. It is dusty, but after cutting and routing it requires no sanding like fir or pine does.
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I do a lot of inlay and some intarsia. (no fretwork). I have three saws. One is a 25" Hegner and it is tucked under my bench gathering dust. I have set up a 20" Hegner which I have tilted to do my inlay cutting and a 15" Jet which I use for all other dust making. The longer saws have little value for me, because I am cutting smaller pieces. The reach to the rear of the saw for tensioning on the 25" Hegner is a stretch and I am lazy. I guess it depends on what you plan to cut.
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My Type 2 DeWalt only lasted 20 months so you have had good luck with yours lasting as long as it has. I would just get another saw. I have hegners but an excaliber may suit you well .
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For a few cuts, I installed my streight blade, twisted it 90° and then tensioned it. With the blade at 90° I had unlimited throat....for that cut. Limited applications but it does work.
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I had a similar issue, years ago, with a DeWalt. In my case ,while cutting 3/4" wood I was pushing too hard and streching the blade. I learned to slow down my feed rate a lot.
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Also called "roll pin". You drive them out.
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I have the "Hobby Pro" version of this. I use it as a radial drill press to drill holes at 6° angle for doing linlay. Works great for me.
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I find doing cursive letter cutting a lot more forgiving than cutting block lettering so that is what I mostly use.
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I am doing inlay not fretwork. I use "Lucinda Handwriting " in word.
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One idea is, if you do not have a way to re-saw it, make a band saw box or two using it. Cut into rectangles and glue them together to form the thick blank required for them.
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Before I thought to use the rig I now use, I made a little ramp to hold the wood at the desired angle and just tried to drill straight down with a hand held drill. So, yes ,your idea should work also.
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I have a 1988 Jet saw 15" that looks a lot like that. The arm on mine is not covered but the motor looks similar. I paid $15 for it and use it almost every day. I put Hegner clamps on it though.
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I do not cut plywood at all and do not do fretwork but I have had good luck reducing chipping/tear-out in mahogany while carving the surface of it. I applied one or two coats of lacquer before carving and it works pretty good at avoiding splintering. I guess it strengthens the surface of the wood. This just may help on plywood also.
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Interesing. I just may show this video at our next meeting. Thanks for posting it.
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I have a black and decker rotary tool, like a Dremel, mounted in a Hobby pro drill press accessary. I have it tilted to 6° from ninety, for doing inlay work. A friend of mine is looking for a plunge router type accessary for his Dremel but one that will drill a hole at an angle other than 90°. Like 6° off of ninety. Does anyone know of one?
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Craft inc. Is where I get mine.
