RangerJay

I hope this isn't cheating - my pictures aren't exactly what you asked for ..... I've made this clock 3 times - one with straight blades - 2 with spiral blades - I will leave it up to others to guess which is which (hope the dates don't show up in the properties of the pictures .....) - but I am guessing that it will be difficult if not impossible to tell - both clocks include tons of fretwork, some sweeping curves, some straight lines - all of which were done by either the straight or spiral blade that was used throughout the particular project. In the straight blade project I should tell you that my 16" saw was not quite sufficient to use the straight blade throughout so this particular project actually became my first introduction to the spiral blade so I could finish it ..... I will be happy to show a few more detailed pictures of the finished spiral blade project - and the results you can get with a spiral blade. Thanks! Jay

I started with a 16" Craftsman - and after a couple years moved up to a 16" EX - been scrolling now I think for about 6 years - never once have I felt the need for a larger saw. Having said that ...... If you have the space and the money there is no reason to not go for a bigger saw. In my case - my shop is too small for the tools I already have and the multitude of other purposes the shop (garage) must meet - and I still have more stuff on my want list. Right from the get-go I've made a 16" saw work. This did mean getting comfortable with spiral blades - not hard (some would disagree) - but once done they quickly became my preferred go-to blades for pretty much all projects. I have never looked back. Jay

You've both had a very long grind - hopefully it is not going to be too much longer - I'm sure your therapist is playing it safe - when I was recovering from my knee replacements (both done over a year and a half) I found it difficult to stand for long periods in the shop - but with a bit of planning I was easily able to rotate tasks between standing, sitting and moving around which turned out pretty beneficial all around. Maybe you can try to work with your therapist to get some kind of modified time out in the shop that works to your benefit and addresses her concerns? Jay

Yes - a good time for "practice" - another possibility might be to simply slice it off on the band saw and reglue it? Jay

I am notoriously cheap ...... ( or just plain lazy) ...... ..... often meaning that I am a person who goes to obsessive lengths to avoid having to do something over ...... It would be great to have a picture of what you are dealing with - in absence of a picture I wonder if you can get away with simply cutting out the offending piece and remaking it??? - or finding a way to incorporate some "artistic licence" and make it look like it is actually an improvement on the original design?? Jay

Well ..... at various times in my life I have been called "Blue Jay", "Jayce", "Jacob", "Jason", "Jasonian", "Leather", "Ranger" or "Ranger Jay" ..... but more recently ..... now that I am grey haired, walk with a bit of a gimp - and from time to time use a cane - I am very regularly called "Sir" or "Mr. Leather" ...... and finally ...... if the batteries need to be changed in my hearing aids my wife gets my attention by shouting "HEY!!" ..... Guess the upshot is ..... you can call me pretty much whatever you darn well please ..... Jay

In defense of Elmer's I think the secret is to spray both surfaces and then stick without any time delay - have to admit that this is now the glue I use all the time - first bought it because my patterns were lifting with another product - (don't remember what that was) - tried Elmer's and have never had trouble since. I cover my wood stock with green painters tape first - spray glue on both the taped wood and the pattern - immediately stick - then cover all with box tape. Jay

Welcome back to making sawdust with the scroll saw!! Burnout has an insidious way of creeping into pretty much any activity that you perceive as always needing to be done now ..... even into retirement ..... ..... always thought there was no such thing as retirement ..... only a changing of gears ..... but ..... I got to learn the hard way that if you really want to honour your own retirement years you need to be the one with your hand on the gearshift. For me that meant understanding that there is a bit of a distinction between "working at the saw" and "playing at the saw" - took me a while to figure that out - but once the meaning of the term "hobby" hit home then my life at the scrollsaw became pretty enjoyable - on a daily basis that meant the minute it feels like work is the end of another day ..... ..... in my own practical terms this has become going out to the Shed about noon(ish) every day and coming in at exactly 4 - then toasting the retired life with my wife and a daily Martini ..... The other important point? - work only with a project list that is not time oriented - and for those who would like to pressure you with deadlines? - well - you'll need to tell them that "your project" ...... unfortunately ..... is not likely to get looked at for about a year and a half ...... I'll call you when I can get at it ..... Jay

Well - I got the Ridgid a week ago - set it up - but didn't have a real use for it till today ..... .... verdict? .... this is a really neat power tool!!! ..... definitely fits the category of "Why didn't I get this years ago!!" My 1 hour experience on this machine: - one review by a contractor had suggested it was underpowered - I very much disagree - more than enough power - not even a hint that it had any challenge with what I put it through today - was working on 1 inch cherry - straight lines and curves. - many other reviews suggested the screw for holding down the spindles and belt mechanism would tighten itself through use to the point of making it very difficult to remove - no sense of that today - in fact quite the reverse - it seemed to loosen itself through use - maybe I was being a little too cautious because of the reviews? - but I quickly changed gears and got aggressive about tightening it down - no issues. - didn't like the washers on the spindles - changed spindles 3 times - (just because I could) - ended up looking for the washer on the floor 3 times ..... not sure that is a problem with the design or the operator ...... - so far this tool feels like a big wood tool - not a small wood tool - I did end up heading back to the 1" belt sander for a couple sections that needed a little more finesse ...... recognize that I will very definitely need to replace my 1" belt sander when it gives up the ghost ...... likely soon ..... not a story I will tell my wife ..... till after its done ..... - upshot?? - I like it ..... .... a LOT. Jay

Through this forum I've gotten advice on what equipment to buy (or not to buy), on how to do stuff, on how to finish stuff, on what wood works (or not), on how to fix stuff, on how to make a pattern, on getting a pattern, on how to sell, on how not to sell - and the list goes on - and on - and on - and on - and then - as an added bonus I get to see daily examples of great projects done by others that are an incredible inspiration to everyone. ...... thinking that those who belong and contribute to this forum are deserving of for some kind of degree ...... is there such a thing as a Scroll Saw PhD?? - I can think of several who are deserving!! And yes - thanks to all!! Jay

I've use a method similar to the link that Scrappile has provided the link for a number of times with wood from 1/4" and up to about 5/8". My only real caution is to be careful with how much moisture you apply - I've kinda found that patience is a necessary virtue - if you apply too much moisture your wood can warp the other way very, very quickly I've taken to ringing a dish cloth or something similar out as dry as you possibly can - spread it out on the cupped side of your piece - watch it closely for a couple hours - then remove it once the wood starts to move - wait 24 hours then do it again if you have to - stick with a repeating cycle that is slow and steady until the wood is level. I don't actually clamp my pieces but do place them cupped side down on a flat surface and weight them down with my toolbox. Once the piece seems to have flattened and stabilized I then clamp it to keep it flat (usually with a sister piece that is warped the other way) - and leave them clamped until they are ready to be scrolled - then once scrolled get a finish on it quickly to seal the wood. Warped wood that is thicker than what you would put under the scrollsaw I run over the jointer and through the planer to true it up. (Should also add that if I am working on a larger project that is going to take a while (as in days or weeks) and I think that there is some risk the wood will warp during the cutting time then I also lay it on a flat surface between cutting sessions, with my toolbox on it to keep it flat). Jay

I joined that forum quite a while back but have never really been an active participant - will dust off my password and have another look at it. Thanks! Jay

Well - bit the bullet and ordered a Ridgid Belt/Oscillating Spindle Sander from Home Depot - should be here in a few days. Had to do a bit of rejigging in the shop - this unit won't fit where I have the 1" belt sander - so that also means I still have an option to replace the 1" belt sander if I have to ..... I really appreciate all the thoughts and advice from everyone on this - would never have even been aware of the Ridgid sander if it weren't for this forum and the participation of "those who know". Thanks, Jay

That Ridgid Belt/Oscillating Spindle Sander looks really interesting - pretty neat - I'd never seen anything like that before - started reading reviews and will take a look at You Tube videos today while I'm in the shop.

Thanks everyone - looks like - so far anyway - there is some pretty clear writing on the wall ...... Dan: I wish I did have the option to have both - but I've pretty much crowded my shop out of any choices that could add even one other small piece of machinery ..... Jay

My 1" belt sander is on its last legs. It doesn't owe me any money. It has been one of my "go to" sanders for a lot of my work for many years. But .... Have always wanted an oscillating spindle sander. Have never actually used one - but think it can do the same work and more. So. Am thinking of replacing the 1" belt sander with the oscillating spindle sander - I do not have room in my shop for both. Is this a reasonable swap? The one thing (I think) the spindle sander will NOT do is sharpen metal blades - lawn mower blades, kitchen knives, carving knives, chisels - all of which I do and do well with the 1" belt machine. Far as I know this is the only real downside. What I like about the spindle sander is that it will sand tight curves where the belt leaves me looking for other equipment (dremel, drill press) - despite what I said about metal sharpening I do a lot more wood sanding than metal. Advice??? Thanks, Jay

Apparently New Zealand takes the word "Premium" to an entirely different level .....

Now that I live with Tinnitus, hearing loss and wear hearing aids - yes - I wear hearing protection. Now that I cough whenever I breath in the least amount of sawdust - yes - I wear a dust mask. Now that my eyesight just ain't what it was - yes - I wear prescription safety glasses in the shop. Now that my bones have become stiff and creaky - yes - I keep the shop clean and organized, think through my next moves before I take them and don't take short cuts. Now that I'm able to enjoy the fruits of retirement - yes - I have a TV in the shop, bluetooth in my hearing aids - only thing I'm missing is a beer fridge ..... Jay

Funny ..... (not) ...... .... the youthful version of myself never wore hearing protection nor dust masks nor pretty much any other kind of safety protection (with the possible exception of safety glasses - but only under duress) ..... ...... the mature version of myself wears it all ...... Jay

Got to admit that I've never been a big fan of mitred frames - but after seeing some of the pictures posted above I might have to rethink that - some really great looking work here. Having said that here area some frames that I've kinda gravitated to in my effort to avoid mitred frames. .

One strength of the traditional type of sanding mop is that it's individualized pieces of sandpaper do a good job of getting into the inside of fretwork to remove the hard edge - not sure this product would do that but it sure looks intriguing and I'd look forward to your review once you've tried it. The other thing I'd wonder about is longevity - the material in this product looks very similar to that found in abrasive buffs that can also be purchased off of Amazon ( https://www.amazon.ca/Yasumai-Abrasive-Polishing-Buffing-Tools-2-35mm/dp/B0722Y69NJ/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1519332337&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=abrasive+buffs&psc=1 ). I do use these buffs on fretwork and like them for that purpose - but I treat them as disposable - they really don't last a long time. The sanding mop - on the other hand - is amazingly long lived - I don't think I'd be exaggerating if I said I get close to a year out of a refill before having to change it - by the way - $72.95 seems way too high - I believe there is an initial add-on charge for the mandrel but even so this seems too much. If you do decide to get this product please keep us posted on how it works. Thanks, Jay

Most of my work tends to be one-of-a-kind projects which I think makes it easier to take the time for a great finish - in fact I kinda enjoy it. Finishing includes a custom frame or base (if needed), sanding (lots), an application of tung oil (brushed and wiped), multiple coats of polyurethane (Minwax only) and finally a coat of paste wax that is applied with 0000 steel wool then polished or buffed. On occasion - if I want a portion of the piece to be buffed to a veryhigh gloss I will also polishing compound before waxing. Jay

The only things you haven't mentioned that I use on a reasonably regular basis are below - I've added an asterisk to the ones I use a real lot. - magnifying lens for the saw (*) - 1" belt sander (*) - sanding mop (*) - abrasive buffs for the dremel tool - carving burrs for the dremel tool - various sized drum sanders for both the dremel tool and the drill press - assortment of router bits for the dremel tool and trim router - trim router - range of carving tools - cordless drill (*) - range of wood clamps - planer - jointer - mitre saw (*) Think that is about it .... Jay

Elm has a particularly unique grain that is easily identifiable - the wood can be a bit tough and stringy (if you have to split Elm firewood by hand you don't like it) - but it is great for furniture and I like to use it for frames - it works well for use anywhere you want to show off a heavier grain. Here are a couple clocks I made of Elm quite a few years ago - to this day, of all the clocks I've made, they remain my favourite - mainly because of the wood. Jay

Guess I'm old enough to have learned way too many times that it is sinfully easy to overdo pre-planning - and find yourself way out of sync with you ultimately find yourself doing. My motto now?? - "One thing at a time" - and that one thing is usually a collaborative effort between my own wishes, my wifes wishes, the wood I've got, the wood I need to buy, the time I've got, the season of the year - and - of course - my astrological forecast (which usually brings me back to my own wishes ....) - the point being - and all humour aside - too much pre-planning and Murphy's Law go hand-in-hand ..... Jay