OCtoolguy

Now, why didn't I think of that?

Thanks Kevin. I had never heard of buying un-pigmented paint.

I know I have seen this subject commented on but it still remains a mystery to me. So, here goes......When you find a pattern in a book and can't just cut out the page, how do you go about getting the pattern onto paper to work with it? I have a great book but when I do a scan of the patterns I end up with something that I can't seem to work with in Inkscape or Gimp without a great deal of work in between. I also would love to be able to print the final patterns out in red. A few of you kind folks have tried to help me out with this but it still eludes me. Should I first do a copy of the pattern in the book and then scan it or am I wasting my time trying to get something that can be imported into whatever software program I am using. I have tried Inkscape, Gimp and Paint so far because they are free. I'm sure if I was to spend a bunch of money on something else, it may or may not work any better. Right now, I'm just very confused. I'd sure appreciate it if someone would go through all the steps of how you do it. The whole idea of figuring out what format to save the pattern in is another can of worms. JPG, PDF, SVG.....it is so confusing. I must be muddleheaded because I can usually figure this stuff out. HELP!!

My first suggestion would be spar varnish. I did a gate that way 40 years ago and it still looks good.

It's tough to imagine anybody doing anything that cheap. Maybe I should have held off on buying a laser printer. That was a LOT of stamps.

Thanks to you all. I will give the wetting a try. I have gone back and re-read Steve's explanation several times. So, now it's time to give it a try. Unfortunately, the only place I have that is flat and that long is my workbench so it will be unusable for a day or two. I have some projects that will keep me busy. I will be installing my new Pegas clamps. I look forward to using them.

Thanks Dan for that. Ha!. I forgot to check the dates. Oh well.....at least Diane got something out of it. I wonder what became of him.

I was also thinking that I could rip it into strips and flip and glue them back together. I know that it works with thicker wood. Not sure it would work with something this thin.

I just did a little bit of detective work and it appears to me that Grizzly is selling the same saw or one very much like it. Here ya go...... https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0537_m.pdf Good luck.

I read about this subject on Steve Good's blog and he said to tune in the next day to see how it worked out. Except that he never addressed it again. What brings this up is, a couple of months ago, I bought some wood for a project but didn't get to it fast enough. It is 1/4" poplar about 8 inches wide and 48" long. It has become cupped the full length of the board. So, according to Steve, I should be able to apply damp paper towels to the cupped side and turn it face down on my work bench with weight on top of it for about 24 hours. But, since he never did the follow up, I don't know if it worked or not. Have any of you ever tried to "uncup" warped wood? Did it work? I sure hope so. I hate to see good wood go bad. I'll be awaiting your knowledgeable answers.

Double entry. Sorry.

In most cases, computers don't actually crash. And generally the hard drives are not damaged. Unless yours was truly a hard drive crash, you should be able to access all your files from it. Can you give any details? What I have found, and this is probably the case in about 75% of computers "crashing" is that they become very dirty because folks never open them and clean them. The dirt will cause them to overheat and then they will not reboot. Is yours a laptop or desktop?

Doing that double bevel inlay is fun and interesting. Looks great Kevin.

Well, I went to Home Depot today and they had the Diable 10-50 for $36.97. With my 10% veterans discount, well, you get the idea. Anyway, it sure seems like a very well made blade. Thanks to all for your help and I gained a ton of knowledge on this subject. Since there is a very similar topic going on with Kevin and his miter saw, between the two, I am now "almost" an expert. Ha!

What do they generally charge to do something like that?

I've captured that video on my computer and I've watched it more than once. I still can't get my scans to work that way. I've spent way too many hours trying to get Inkscape to work for me. I'm truly frustrated and until I can get someone knowledgeable to actually show me in the same room , I'm sort of giving up. I have other things to do. Maybe someday I'll figure it out.

Yes Sir! Will do as you suggest.

I'm going to get one of each and cover all my bases. I know about as much as you Les. But, I don't know squat about building a clock/watch.

That's almost what I have in the saw. Ha!

Since I have one of those "cheap jobsite" saws, I may just go the 7 1/4" route for most of my cuts. It sure makes a lot of sense and it would have to be much easier on my saw. I sure do wish I had room for even a small belt drive saw. I may have to do some more figuring.

Les, I now have a laser printer and would love to know how to take a scanned pattern and change it to red/gray. Have you actually seen how they do it? I'd sure love to know.

Ya know, even if you had to pay a couple hundred to have it shipped, that's a great price. I will say this though, knowing what I now know about Hegner saws, I'd really have to be able to try it out. Run it, start it, cut with it. They are a different breed from what most folks are used to.

I'm in the same boat Ralph. I have the same two saws as you. I just sold my Hegner over the weekend. I just wasn't happy with it. I do love my EX and my Dewalt though.

I did you one better Dan. I got the same saw, a 12 spd drill press and a 14" bandsaw all delivered to my house for $2100. It helped that I was in the tool business though. No sales tax.

Very interesting. And it makes sense too. Thanks for bringing this up to all of us who may not have known it was possible. I'm going shopping right now for a smaller blade.