OCtoolguy

Very nice job. Can you give us any idea of wood type? It might be nice to know for future projects. Thanks for posting.

The quality is the same. Outstanding product. I hated to spend that $100 but I'm glad I did.

You will be amazed at how different they are. So smooth. So easy to load a blade. And the tension is system is so much better and smoother. Buy a set. You won't be sad.

Or at least offering them as an option. A great selling point.

Absolutely. You get your best price when buying in gross quantities.

Thanks. I had forgotten all about that old song. I loved it at the time and still now that I recall it. And you are so right about sense of humor. Something that has been lost on the younger generations.

Thanks so much for your help. Yes, it does seem to split right along the coloration line. I have enough wood that I can finish out the needed amount of panels but I'm just thinking that for the next one, I want to be on the safe side. I'll do some reading on those two links you provided. Thanks again.

There was another one from down under. I can't remember the name but part of it was, "they tanned me hide when I died Clyde and that's it hangin' on the shed". I think it might have been "Tie me kangaroo down".

Thanks Dan. I did got to the Woodcraft website but they don't list any mahogany at all. I'll drop by the local store and see what they have. Where would a person find sapele? I've never heard of it until today.

Thanks John, I appreciate your help. I have been trying to read up on the subject and I did come across the "sapele" name. I always thought that mahogany was more or less red in color. The plans for my project call for "red cedar" and I ordered from Ocooche but they only had one listing for cedar so I went for it. When I got it I realized it had two distinct colors but I didn't know what was going to happen. I have cut 4 of the 8 panels so far but the last one split on me right along the line where the color changes. So, rather than go further, I thought I'd change wood. I have enough cedar to make a couple of extra panels but I'm sort of disappointed in how they are turning out at this point. I practiced on some junk pine and the turned out better with no splits. I'm sort of high centered right now but I'll figure something out.

I have been working on a project using what I thought was red cedar. It turns out to be NOT red cedar. It has a definite color change between red and white and along that line, it has a tendency to split. So, I'm changing over to mahogany to stay with the red color. But, there are so many different types of mahogany and other woods that proclaim to be mahogany, I am confused as to which one to buy. I just checked at Rockler and they have "mahogany" but don't say what kind or where it comes from. Can any of you smarter folks give me some insight before I go ordering or buying something that is wrong? I am attaching a picture of what I'm trying to make for the wife. The eight side panels are the pieces that will be mahogany. Compound cuts. Thanks for bearing with me. I thought I knew it all but find that I'm wrong. LOL!

About an hour from where I live Kevin. Up near the wood place that I found. I could hit them both in an hour or so.

That was one of the first things I put up when I got married 49 years ago. I don't like kids.

That's my biggest complaint about Bear Woods. I ordered blades from them and if I recall it took about 2 weeks to get to me. I hate waiting. I'm too old now and time is short. Like that proverbial "toilet paper" roll spinning faster and faster.

I just found these two charts and thought I'd throw them in here. I find these to compliment what you posted John.

. Trying to figure out how many balusters and the spacing between them was not an easy task until I found the formula online. I ended up having to make an extra 21 of them to have enough. I spaced them closer together to keep our cats from walking through them. Anyway, thanks John for your chart. I will print it and save it on my wall.

Thanks John, but it would have been much more meaningful if I didn't have to figure out what all those "mm" equate to. What size is 8 1/2" x 11"?

I realize you are way south of me but would you mind sharing the names of the places you use? If you want you can private message them to me.

The floor in my little shop is 3/4" plywood on top of 4 x 4's on top of concrete. I just bought a bunch of the foam floor padding that Harbor Freight sells and did the entire shop with it. What a difference in my scroll saws. No vibration at all. I built custom stands for both of them out of 2 x and 4 x construction and they were pretty good as to vibration but since putting them on the foam padding, it's like night and day. I strongly recommend it. Much better than carpet.

Thanks Kevin for your great explanation. I am going to be ordering some blades in the very near future. I forgot about Dnd. I was looking at Qtena and Bear. Qtena won't let you mix and match. Bear will but they are in Canada and it takes longer to get stuff from them. I will check out DnD and do a mix and match order. I made a couple of mistakes on blade orders in the past and I now have some blades that I may or may not use. But, live and learn. I'm pretty much going to stick with the Pegas blades but as mentioned above, I might give the FD Penguin blades a try. I'm not one to do a lot of cutting of the same thing all the time. I will be doing just about everything so I will have a chance to try most everything I have in my arsenal. Right now, puzzles don't call out to me as does intarsia. I like to make things that are functional so I will be more in the boxes, baskets and bowls area. I am not the most learned person when it comes to wood choice either. I will have to lean on others here for advice on what wood to use for different things. When it comes to finishing, that is another whole can of worms for me. So, onward and upward. Sorry to have taken this topic off course.

I would think that if you were to use the blue LokTite you would only have to do it once.

On the Dewalt you can take the bottom off the blower and turn it 180 degrees. Then the blower tube comes out the other side. I did it and it works just fine.

I have been following ALL the threads that talk about blades and I am seeing that the #5 seems to be the size of choice in most cases. I know when I took the marquetry class we were using 2/0 for the very thin veneer. But I see most everybody using either 1/8 BB or other thicknesses of hardwoods and it looks like most everybody is using #5. I have blades of all the major brands and in sizes ranging from 2/0 to 12. I have been experimenting with all sizes and configurations on this compound cutting project. So far, the best cutting comes from the Pegas #5 MGT. So, with that said, I guess I'll just order a gross of those and not have to go through all the confusion of which blade to use. Anybody who has input here would be greatly appreciated. Just wanting to hear all sides of the story. Which blade for which wood etc.

Think positive Les, you will go through a gross of blades long before your demise. Buy 2 gross.

Ok, I've gotta ask,.....what is a "live edge"?