OCtoolguy

In most cases, computers don't actually crash. And generally the hard drives are not damaged. Unless yours was truly a hard drive crash, you should be able to access all your files from it. Can you give any details? What I have found, and this is probably the case in about 75% of computers "crashing" is that they become very dirty because folks never open them and clean them. The dirt will cause them to overheat and then they will not reboot. Is yours a laptop or desktop?

Doing that double bevel inlay is fun and interesting. Looks great Kevin.

Well, I went to Home Depot today and they had the Diable 10-50 for $36.97. With my 10% veterans discount, well, you get the idea. Anyway, it sure seems like a very well made blade. Thanks to all for your help and I gained a ton of knowledge on this subject. Since there is a very similar topic going on with Kevin and his miter saw, between the two, I am now "almost" an expert. Ha!

What do they generally charge to do something like that?

I've captured that video on my computer and I've watched it more than once. I still can't get my scans to work that way. I've spent way too many hours trying to get Inkscape to work for me. I'm truly frustrated and until I can get someone knowledgeable to actually show me in the same room , I'm sort of giving up. I have other things to do. Maybe someday I'll figure it out.

Yes Sir! Will do as you suggest.

I'm going to get one of each and cover all my bases. I know about as much as you Les. But, I don't know squat about building a clock/watch.

That's almost what I have in the saw. Ha!

Since I have one of those "cheap jobsite" saws, I may just go the 7 1/4" route for most of my cuts. It sure makes a lot of sense and it would have to be much easier on my saw. I sure do wish I had room for even a small belt drive saw. I may have to do some more figuring.

Les, I now have a laser printer and would love to know how to take a scanned pattern and change it to red/gray. Have you actually seen how they do it? I'd sure love to know.

Ya know, even if you had to pay a couple hundred to have it shipped, that's a great price. I will say this though, knowing what I now know about Hegner saws, I'd really have to be able to try it out. Run it, start it, cut with it. They are a different breed from what most folks are used to.

I'm in the same boat Ralph. I have the same two saws as you. I just sold my Hegner over the weekend. I just wasn't happy with it. I do love my EX and my Dewalt though.

I did you one better Dan. I got the same saw, a 12 spd drill press and a 14" bandsaw all delivered to my house for $2100. It helped that I was in the tool business though. No sales tax.

Very interesting. And it makes sense too. Thanks for bringing this up to all of us who may not have known it was possible. I'm going shopping right now for a smaller blade.

Remember the old dot matrix printers with the fan fold paper? Not that much different if you think about it. Just need to create the feed mechanism for the inkjet/laser printer. By the way, I love my new laser printer. It is so much better than the inkjet and the ink never dries up.

Go get it. The simple fact that moving the entire motor/blade mechanism leaves do much chance for variance is enough to warrant the belt drive saw. I'd have one in a heartbeat if I had the space for it. And, if the motor goes bad, you replace it and not the whole saw. The price is certainly not an issue so go get it. Another thing that is cool about that saw Kevin is you can make an extension table for one side of it and install a router under it. Then use the t/s fence with the router. Really works out great. I'd love to be able to do that with my Dewalt but (sigh) not doable.

I just rec'd. my set of Pegas yesterday but I haven't had a chance to install them. From all the feedback I've read here and other places, it seems like a no-brainer. I'll let you know as soon as I give them a try. I'm hoping for the "less vibration" throughout the RPM range.

I would never have given that any thought. I'll bet it would be like tripling the horsepower of the saw too.

On a 10" saw?

I just found this out on the net. It comes from someone within the Freud company. An explanation of there different levels of blades. Very good to know. Here is a responce provided by a Freud tech guy a number of years ago.QUOTEAll Freud blades come from the same machines in the same manufacturing plant. We make our own micrograin carbide in numerous formulations that represent various degrees of hardness. The carbide is selected depending on the intended application (the hardest is used for laminates the softest for ripping) as are the tooth angles and tooth quantity. The steel for the blade plates is all the same grade. The brazing is all the same. The key differences between the 3 main lines of Freud blades are: The LU/LM Industrial blades have the thickest tips for the most resharpenings and are generally full kerf. We also offer the most selection of specialty blades in this line. These have the most appeal to professionals who need to get a lot of sharpenings out of a blade and to artisans who need specialty blades for their projects. The TK and Diablo lines are very similar. Both are thin kerf blades and the tip thickness is the same. The key difference is in the way we market these blades. The Diablo line has blades intended for purposes like framing, siding, decking and general home improvement and is packaged and promoted in ways that appeal to contractors and DIYers. The TK line has blades for similar purposes (as well as laminate blades) but is sold with different or no coating and different packaging and POP material to appeal more to woodworkers.Do professional woodworkers shop for blades at Home Depot? Probably some do and they can get excellent performance from a Diablo blade for a lot of their uses but with a shorter overall life (and lower cost) due to the tip thickness. Same with the TK blades at Lowe's.Why not compare a TK or Diablo blade to Forrest? Consider this analogy: Toyota cars and Lexus cars share a lot of the same components and are made by the same company. Would you compare a Camry with a BMW?We make a fourth line of blades (F400 Premier series) that is very similar to the WWII and is priced similarly. The difference between ours and Forrest's is that ours is made by computer controlled, super modern equipment and theirs is made by hand. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages but I leave the final verdict to the consumer.Charles M Freud, Inc.

That's what I'm looking at on Amazon. $36.

It was about 20 years ago that I bought my Forrest blades. I will say, when I would cut oak it could be edge glued with no other finishing. Perfect cuts. At that time, it was a war between Freud and Forrest. Now, I just want GOOD and CHEAP.

Very nice job. I never gave any thought to the springs. I just went and picked up all the stuff I need to make one like yours. Except the springs.

In my other life, I had a Delta Unisaw. BIG difference but I can't have anything like that anymore. For one thing, I only have 110 a.c. 100 amp.

I am going to be making a votive candle holder that was in a pattern book that I have. It requires me to cut 8 of the same piece using compound cutting. I'm fairly new to this so I have been practicing on some cheap wood before trying it on the more expensive red cedar. I'm getting better but doing the tall side is a bit harder when having to hold the piece tight to the table and I have been rapped a few times in the knuckles by the saw arm. So, I'm going to make a jig. But I will also try the mini clamps too. Thanks for your help.