OCtoolguy

Thanks to you all. I don't know why I turned up the speed on mine but I did just to see how fast fast was. It seems that it starts to vibrate pretty bad at just over half throttle. Then it gets VERY bad. I don't think that the stand has anything to do with it. I have taken the saw off the stand and put carpet between the two. I'm building a very good heavy stand that will have three legs of 4 x 4 construction and will have an adjustable table that I can get the tilt I want. It will be heavy because the wood is too heavy for me to carry all at once. And it is dry wood. I'm going to check out all the bearings just because I want to. I'm not expecting to find any bad ones but it will make me feel better to know that they are all in good shape, As for running the saw at high speed,the only reason I turned it up was because of an article that I read about running the saw at a fast enough speed to help it cut thicker wood easily. At this point, I am only cutting BB plywood that is 5/16" so I don't need to run it very fast. I was just concerned at how much it vibrated when I did. I figured that if any of you more learned folks who have saws like mine have encountered this problem, you would be ready to help me fix mine. Thanks again to you all, Ray

Thanks Scrappile, I was thinking that too. The saw is on a factory stand at this time but I'm in process of building a nice heavy wood stand. It seems like the saw is just trying to shake itself apart when run at anything over about half speed. I had never tried to run it that fast before I added the wooden knob covers. They can't possibly have added that much weight. I'll fiddle around with them some more. Ray

A question for those users of a DW 788. I never cranked up my saw to high speed until yesterday and when I did, I found that it vibrates quite a bit. I am afraid I might have built a vibration into my machine. I cut a couple of "knobs" out of cherry and glued them over the factory knobs. Of course, they are not balanced but I never gave it any thought when I put them on. Can any of you who have ONLY the factory knobs on you machines give me some idea of how smooth your saw is at full speed. If I have to I will take the additions off. It did make it a lot easier to tighten them when changing blades though. I will have a tough time getting them off if that's the problem. Can super glue be softened? Ray

Thanks for the suggestions but those printers are looooong gone. But the rubber rollers actually deteriorated. No rubber left. They fell apart. Typical HP crap. I'll never have another HP printer. They are in the ink business. Ray

Thanks. I'll start looking around. R

Thanks Fishman, can you give me a model number? R

Just a quick question to those of you using laser printers. I had at one time two HP ll 's and on both machines the feed rollers went bad. Have you folks found a laser printer that doesn't have that problem? The printers worked great until they stopped feeding the paper. Anybody have any advice on which brand/model to buy? Ray

How long have you owned the saw? Did you buy it new from Sears? If so, return it. That's what I do when I buy something that doesn't work the way I think it should. I bought my wife a new laptop last week. I spent two days getting everything set up on it but there was something wrong in the keyboard and it would just just for no reason. I thought my wife was crazy but then it did it for me. Back it went. Life is too short to spend it being frustrated. I bought my Dewalt 788 used on Craigslist for $250. And it came with stand and light. There are deals out there if you are patient. Good luck. Ray

Thanks Larry. That is exactly what I was trying to find out. I like all your dimensions. I am a bit taller than you so it would probably work out well for me. This has been a most helpful post. Thanks again for your time and posting of pics. Now, I go to the shop and start building. Ray

tvman, we've already concluded that. I'm trying to get some idea of the size of the folks and at what height their table is at. I REALIZE that's it's a personal preference. I just want some ideas. Thanks for your input though. Ray

Thanks Jim. I'm trying to imagine how working at chest height would be. In my mind's eye, I see you resting your chin on the table. I know that is not the case but it just came into my mind. I'll have to see what that would come out to. I think my table will be about the same. Thanks again, Ray p.s. Jim, do you have your saw tilted toward you? I have mine tilted right now by putting a 2 x 4 under the legs at what I call the rear of the saw. That tilts the table down just a bit and seems to make it easier to work/see what I'm doing. The stand I'm building calls for an adjustable platform that will allow as much or little tilt as might be desired.

Thanks Len. It sounds like your work table is about as high as mine is now. I'm trying to get it lower so I can sit lower. Right now I have a shop stool that is a swivel seat and it's too small to sit on comfortably. Like you, I know what I want. I also have a foot switch that must play into the equation. I can deal with that once I have the saw at the height I want. It's a shame you don't have the choices we have here in the States. I am hooked up to Verizon FIOS and it's very fast. Posting pics is quite easy. I just save the pic to my desktop and when it asks me where the pic is located I tell it and away it goes. Maybe we can have a bit of a class on how it's done one of these times. If you want to chat via email, let me know. Thanks again, Ray

I started this thread and then got away from it. Now, I'm getting ready to build a stand for my saw. It will put the table height at 34.5". I am 6'1" tall. I am going to buy a cheap office chair from Staples that will give me the adjustment I need. Can any of you folks out there give me any feedback on your size and working height of your saw table? I have it sitting on the factory stand now and I have a shop stool. Both are too high to sit at comfortably. Thanks for any input you all may have to offer. I know it's a matter of personal preference but I'm just trying to get some idea of whether I'm on the right track. Ray

I barely have room for the one saw I have. My shop is only 9 x 13 and I have a full sized bandsaw, an 8 foot work bench, a stack tool box, a portable Dewalt table saw, a drill press, belt sander, bench grinder so you see, no room for anymore toys.

Go here and read the DW788 tune up section. It will tell you how to fix that knocking sound. http://www.scrollsaws.com/ Ray

Nutrisystem and keep on scrolling.

I guess I won't mention where I live or how I'm dressed right now. Ray

I sent an email to Mike questioning him about whether or not he had sold his business. About 2 hours later, he called me to say yes, that the deal had just closed and he couldn't say anything to me about it last week because it was still up in the air. He says, nothing will change and his phone number will still be the same and so on. He told me to tell you all that we should all start buying from the new owners because they have a tremendous inventory of blades. So, that should clear everything up. Ray.

I got a phone call from Mike last week. He didn't mention anything about selling or retiring. He did tell me to call him anytime with any questions I might have. I can't imagine him saying that if he was going out of business. I got just the opposite impression. Ray

Thanks again to all of you for your input. I was reading in a prior thread about using Glad Cling Wrap on the wood prior to spraying on the adhesive. That sounds great too but I think that the more stuff you try the more confusing and time consuming it becomes. I learned a valuable lesson on my first project and that is NOT to spray the wood. From now on, I will spray the pattern. DUH!! It seems like the blue tape idea would be good except for that's another expense. I'm trying to find the best, cheapest way. I'm going to try the GWC because my wife has some in the drawer and I don't have to go buy it. I must say, this forum is a wealth of knowledge. Thanks again to everybody. Ray

You folks are the best. I thought maybe I was in trouble. I have mineral spirits on hand and will clean it up tomorrow. Thanks so much you guys. Ray

Will this hurt the wood as far as taking a stain? I don't want to paint it. Ray

I am VERY new to this so bear with me. I sprayed my wood with 3M77. After doing that, I found out that I was supposed to spray the pattern. Well, I used a heat gun to get the pattern off but that left me with a layer of stickem on the finished piece. I have tried sanding but that doesn't work so well. What can I use to clean off the glue? I have mineral spirits but I didn't want to chance it without checking here first. I'd hate to screw up my first major project. Thanks to all, Ray

I got a call from Mike yesterday and there was definitely an email screw up somewhere along the line. Anyway, he is a very nice guy and I look forward to doing business with him in the future. If the FD blades prove to be what you all are saying they are, I'm going to be very happy. Thanks to all, Ray

Thanks LarryEA but I'm not the phone type of guy. That's why I use email. I suppose I could have called Mike's but everybody was saying how great his service was and how quickly he responded to email so I was sort of disappointed to not get a timely reply. But, I will say, I put in my order for a variety pack of blades and within a few minutes, I got an email thanking me for my order and telling me it would go out in today' mail. So, I'm wondering now if my original email somehow got lost. I used his email link and it opened up in Thunderbird. That's where I composed my email. That's not always the best thing. I never use Thunderbird so it may have gotten screwed up somehow. Oh well.............................. all is ok now. But thanks for the suggestion. I'll check them out. Ray