OCtoolguy

Thanks guys, I figured out the problem. She brought her blades over to my place and put one in my saw and had no problem with it. No breaky. But that still didn't explain why the Olsen blades didn't break in her saw. So, I went to her shop and took a look at what she was dealing with. It turns out, and she didn't tell me this until I got there, she told me that her blades also would bend when she would tighten them. I took one look and determined that her saw had never been correctly adjusted when it came out of the factory and she had no idea of that. The anvil screw was recessed about two turns back into the blade holder so when she would tighten the blade it would bend and then break. So, after adjusting the anvil and centering both top and bottom blade holders, all is good. But, it tells me that the Flying Dutchman blades are much harder than the Olsen blades. That's why they cut so good and last so long. Problem solved. So, now she will call them tomorrow and tell them what she found so they can rest easy about the rest of that batch. Thanks again folks, R

Ok, follow up. I just talked to my friend and she tells me it's always the top of the blade, the blade is a #1 28 tpi and it's only the Flying Dutchman blades that do it. So, I am going to try one in my saw to verify. I'll get back to you asap. R

Thanks for your reply Hotshot. She is what I would call a very good beginner. She started out with a cheapo saw and then bought a DW 788 like mine. I don't think she has used the saw long enough to have created a problem so if there is a problem it would have to have been with the saw from day one. I will have to check to know which end is giving her problems but I would think that it's either the bottom one or both. She is primarily cutting 1/8" birch plywood and making Christmas ornaments. She is dabbling in some small intarsia projects too. Nothing large or thick. The problem seemed to manifest itself with the purchase of the Flying Dutchman blades and I'm not certain of the blade size. They might have been smaller than the #5 that I posted. I took a guess on that. It's very possible that they are more in the */0 sizes. I'll have to find out. She is supposed to be bringing some of them over to check how they do in my saw. If ever there is going to be a clamp problem from wear, it would be in my very old type 1 saw that I purchased used. I have not had a problem with mine in any way once I took it all apart and lubed all the brgs. R

Hello all, I've been away for a while but am glad to be back. A close friend who is a gifted scroll sawer is having a problem with Flying Dutchman blades. She bought a bunch of them from The Wooden Teddy Bear. The blades are number 5 if I'm not mistaken and when she inserts the blade into the clamp the end snaps off. The saw is brand new (less than a year) and so she asked me if I ever have this problem. I said no and that she should call those folks and let them know. I think it's a bad batch of blades with bad heat treating. She bought some Olsen blades at Wood craft store and doesn't have the problem with them. Anyway, the people at Wooden Teddy Bear told her it's her saw and that the problem is the clamp screw. If that was the case, wouldn't she have the same problem with the Olsen blades? Anyway, I told her I would check with you folks because I swear I had read of someone else here that had the same problem. Feedback anybody? Please? Ray

I bought a used type 1 for $250. It had the stand (tubular) and light. I threw both away and built a great stand out of 4 x 4 stock and bought a Harbor Freight illuminated magnifier. I clamped the magnifier to my workbench that sits next to my saw so there is absolutely no vibration. I got the stand plans from the Scrollsaw Workshop site. So, for under $300 dollars I have a great saw. I also followed the video that shows how to replace/lube all the bearings and I feel that my saw is better than a brand new one. But, with that said, I'd buy the saw just to have it around. If one is good two has to be better. Ray

Last year I took a class from a guy who has been out at our local county fair. He peaked my interest so I had to get a saw and learn how to do this. After taking his class, he told all of us that a very good book was The Art of Marquetry (Schiffer Book for Woodworkers) Vandall Stevens, Craig So, I bought one from Amazon. It is the greatest book on the subject and must have been the guide for the class that I took. It's spot on to what I was taught. I have done a few small art projects since. Not hard at all once you learn all the little secrets. Ray

I have had Win 7 for over 5 years and know it pretty well. Can any of you folks who have done the upgrade to 10 give us any idea of what is changed? And how it is better than 7? I know I'd appreciate it. I have been holding off upgrading until there is feedback from the masses on how well it works. Hope to hear good news. Ray

Yes, I know. I've been very busy trying to get everything done that needed doing. We are getting ready to hit the road for a couple of months and I had a lot to do to make everything here "automatic" while we are gone. I'll get busy soon. Sorry. Ray

They are doing the same thing that they are in the process of doing at Woodcarving Illustrated. Evidently their sites were both hacked or had become very insecure. But, in the process of changing software to something more secure, they have run into problems with the integration of the new and old. The webmaster of the old software had written code into it that was not recognizable by the new software and they have had a devil of a time getting all the old stuff working with the new program. I have been in contact a few times with the crew that is trying hard to make it all work. In time, it will all be back up and running. In the meantime, I'm afraid that many of the old posters have become frustrated at not being able to use the new site and have fled. I sure hope they come back. I used to hang out at the carving site a lot and have learned a ton. Just like I'm doing now at this site. Ray

These saws are very easily repaired. There is a great video on how to do it and Rick's scrollsaw has a lot of info. Take your time and like someone suggested, take pictures as you go. It is well worth the effort. I had a terrible noise and vibration. I took it apart the first time and found a loose nut. While inside I took a look around and fixed or headed off a couple of things that might have gone out before they did. I wish you lived near me, I'd love to help you out. If you decide to give it a try, we are all here for you and will help as you move along. Ray

I know it's probably silly of me to suggest this but if you are using a furnace of any kind in there, please make sure you have it vented properly. Carbon monoxide is deadly and very silent. Ray

Not sure where you are located but in Anaheim, Ca. there is a great company by the name of Anderson Plywood. They have plywood down to 1/64" thickness. Three plys I think. Not cheap but the quality is great. Ray

Well, I feel much better now knowing that at my novice stage, I'm not the only screwup. I always have to do a job more than once to be able to get it right. No matter how many times I measure something, I still make measuring mistakes. When asked what I'm making in my shop, I usually say "oh I buy expensive hardwood and make cheap sawdust". Ray

We all need a wake up call once in a while. After reading all of your experiences, and getting over the heebie jeebies, I will be much more aware, observant and vigilant in the future. Thanks to all of you and I'm sorry for your pain. Ray

Mine is quiet up that far too but at 8 it starts to vibrate a bit. I found that part of it is in my table and the mounting of the saw. I am going to insulate under my table with some pipe foam rubber insulation. Once that is done, it won't vibrate any more. Ray

Ducky, did your wife make you get rid of your table saw? I hope not. Everybody needs at least one good saw. Ray

Mine did the same thing. I was all set to do a total rebuild like the video but instead I just took the cover off one side and found the main shaft nut had come loose. Once tightened the knocking went away. I'm still going to do the rebuild. Ray

Only two kinds of wood workers. Them that have lost a finger in a saw and those that are going to. Now, you have joined the first group. So far, I've been lucky. That's why I don't use guards on any of my tools. It forces me to pay attention. Ray

I'm not sure this will work as I have not tried it myself. But if you are running Windows 7 at the bottom of the screen there is a little "snip-it" tool that you can capture only a portion of the picture you want and save it. Then do your resizing of only that part on your print/scanner. I can't see why it wouldn't work. Ray

I was going to suggest that maybe it was a part of the Shopsmith family but you folks have made me think otherwise. It just looks like an attachment for a Shopsmith. Ray

Thanks Dick, I wasn't even aware that there was a number 12 blade. So far, I haven't seen them for sale anywhere. But, then again, I wasn't looking for them. Ray

Thanks DGman, I don't have one of the FD Polar in that size. But I do have some Olson blades in 7 and 9. I'll give them a try. Ray

Thanks to all of you. I may have been trying to cut too fast. It just seemed like it was working hard. I was using a FD blade too. I'll try a 7 or 9 and see how it goes. Ray

If you were going to do a carving cutout in 2 inch basswood, what blade would you use? I have done one already and it seemed like the #5 skip tooth blade struggled to cut it. It did make it through the whole thing but I was wondering if I should have used a #7 or #9. Anybody out there to guide this newbie? Ray

I made one that is similar for my band saw. But this would allow me to make a circle bigger that the 14" that my band saw allows. Thanks. Ray