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OCtoolguy

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Everything posted by OCtoolguy

  1. The numbers that I quoted are the model number. I looked it up and it seems that it was made about 8 years ago and was rated as one of the best. This one from the pictures appears to be in new condition. The seller came back with a counter offer and I took it. I'll be picking it up on Sunday. Thanks for your help. Ray
  2. I just offered $150. I'm waiting now for his reply. Thanks for your reply. Is yours the same number? 9.55.13?
  3. Hey all, anybody give me some info regarding the value of a Fein shop vac. It's advertised near me for $180 and the pics of it look like it's in very good condition. Is it worth that much? Should I jump on it? I have been going to buy a shop vac and had planned on spending in the neighborhood of $100 but they are all so noisy I have held off. I hear this particular model is very quiet and has the power tool trigger to turn it off and on. What say all you experts? Ray
  4. Done and done. I have been making sure to do both. The blade is under tension and straight. My neighbor has a new DW788. I'm going to check her machine out and see if I can spot anything. Ray
  5. Thanks Joe, that's what I have done so far. I put it all back to where it was and it is working "OK" but I'm not satisfied with just "ok". What I have managed to do is build in a vibration above number 4-5 on the speed dial. I have opened the saw up before and made sure everything inside is tight so the only thing I could do from here is the bearing replacement. The saw is usable but just not right. I'll mess with it some more but at this point, I'm going to start shopping. I would like to get to scrolling instead of fixing. Maybe I'm chasing a problem is this just inherent in these saws. I do want to thank you for your help though. Much appreciated. Ray
  6. I just tried the table leveling thing. I'm not sure how you would raise rear of the table as it is in a fixed position but I did take it loose from the bracket and started shimming it with washers to get the table 90 degrees to the blade. It take a 1/2" of washers to accomplish that. So, that's not gonna happen. I'm going to keep messing with it until something fixes the problem but so far, all I've done is make it worse. Bummer. Ray
  7. J.T. what does it mean when at the top of the arc and at the bottom of the arc, the blade is against the square but in the middle of the arc it is approx. 1/16" of an inch forward of the square when the square is behind the blade? It truly is swinging in an arc. Ray
  8. I just finished doing the grinding of the holes and I move the whole think forward about a 1/16" but if anything it got worse. I also tried doing the washers under the front of the table too. I tried one washer, then two and then three. No improvement. Can you tell me how much you moved the lower assembly forward? I ground the holes out a good amount and can still go a bit more but it seems that it's getting worse. I'm going to try moving it back a bit but it seems like nothing is really making much difference. The blade is moving about 1/16" in the center of the stroke and then on both ends it moves rearword that same 1/16". I don't know if I will ever get the arc out of it. Ray
  9. How does a person know if a shop vac is rated for constant use? I have been trying to get that question answered but so far have not been able to. Does a person have to spend a ton of cash to get one that is rated for constant use or are there low to mid priced units available? Ray
  10. Certainly makes sense to me. Especially since you already have made the investment. Ray
  11. Good luck Edward. My wife and I love car shows. Ray
  12. Thanks Charley, you took some time to write all that. I appreciate it. Ray
  13. Only if you don't have a scroll saw. !!! If I had to use a razor knife, I never would have gotten interested in it. The guy I saw first doing it was using a home made scroll saw that he worked with one foot and he could regulate the speed down to one cut at a time. It had a throat length of about 5 feet. That's what first drew my attention to him. He then took the time to explain the whole process and now, here I am. Ray
  14. Thanks everybody for your patience and suggestions. I have not had a chance yet to try either of the fixes yet but as soon as I know something one way or another, I'll let you all know. Ray
  15. I just did a quick search on youtube and found this video. It gives a very good explanation of what to do to fix the problem I described. Tomorrow, I will give it a try and I'll give feedback as soon as I have some. Ray
  16. You mentioned a video. Where did you find a video? I'd be interested in seeing it. I read the article on Rick's site but I saw no video. Maybe I missed something. I 'll go back and check it out. Thanks for the shimming idea. Ray
  17. Thanks John but maybe I'm not explaining myself clearly. The movement I'm trying to describe is a blade movement that moves from the rear to the front in almost a "chewing" motion that makes the wood jump up and down a bit. Not bad but enough to be bothersome. With the saw turned off and the blade all the way either up or down, moving it through the entire cycle you can see that the blade is moving front to rear and back again. I did read on Rick's site about how to fix it but before jumping in and cutting and grinding out screw holes I wanted to throw it out to "the experts" here. I'm going to try to video the movement with my phone and attach the video here. That may prove to be another can of worms though. Ray
  18. I hope I'm not going to ask a question here that has been discussed ad nauseum but after reading something on Rick's Scrollsaw site, I got to wondering about my saw so I checked it out. I measured the amount of blade movement throughout the entire up/down range and it seems to be in excess of 1/16". I was wondering if those of you using a DW788 have experienced this and if so what did you do to cure it? The explanation of how to fix it is a bit murky on Rick's site so I thought I'd ask here. My saw is an old type 1 that I bought used. I have no idea how much it had been used prior to me getting it but I don't think it had many miles on it. If this has been discussed before, maybe you can steer me in the direction of that duscussion. Thanks, Ray
  19. My advice is to call them and have them ship you a return carton. I have had to do that in the past when I had either discarded the box or had to destroy it to get it open. They'll do it I'm sure. They'll want to know what's wrong with your saw too, I'm sure. Ray
  20. Wheels!
  21. I am considering purchasing a Dust Deputy but I will still need a decent shop vac. Without breaking the bank, what would you folks suggest for a vacuum. I was leaning toward a Home Depot unit or maybe a Rigid but I will wait for some input from you all. I'm sort of thinking of a small one in the 5 gallon size for just my scroll saw. I have limited space. I can't afford one of the high end vacuums. Ray
  22. Oh what I wouldn't give for that much room. After having a 3 car garage at one time, I'm now in a 9 x 13 shop. Ray
  23. Have you thought about possibly making a table topper out of plexiglass or hard board and attaching it with two sided tape? I made a topper for my DeWalt saw out of 1/4" hardboard and it works great. I see many folks have made toppers out of formica or something similar. You must have some other problem though that is causing such roughness. I have no experience with that saw so I can't add anything there. Sorry. Ray
  24. Bingo. There is a club in Orange Co. Thanks for the link. Ray
  25. I gave it a try but nothing came up. I did find a listing for the Orange County Woodworkers Association though. I sent an inquiry to them. I know there has to be one but they sure don't advertise it. Oh well...................... Ray
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