OCtoolguy

Joe, it's pretty expensive to just buy all the necessary bearings and sleeves. I was going to do that too but I'm glad I didn't. Take your saw apart first and inspect the bearings/sleeves. I'll bet you won't find too many bad ones if any at all. I found none. But, I think the most important thing I did was get some good synthetic grease into all the bearings and anyplace that it might be beneficial. Also, tightening all the bearings and making sure that the main con rod bearing is tight is important. Unless your saw has seen a lot of use and never been serviced, I'll bet you won't find much wrong that can't be fixed by just going through it and doing what I suggested. If you were to decide to buy all the pieces you mentioned, you'd be looking at around $200. Now, if you have a fat wallet, well, go for it. Ray

I'm a computer junkie. I have a desktop and two laptops on my desk and another pc in my shop. You are right about learning the program though. It will be easier if I open up two or three computers all at the same time. I'll give that a try tomorrow. It's supposed to rain so it would be a great day to learn the program. Ray

I played around with it and got it to move the letters apart. Is that what you are trying to do? You want to change the spacing between the letters? There are boxes there that you have to change the settings. I'm also now watching the tutorials that Travis has put up on Inkscape. I think that is going to be the way to go. Lot's to learn but it's just a bit of fiddling. Give it a try. Ray

Thanks Paul. I knew I could count on you.

Hi, I just opened Inkscape and it seems that there will be a tremendous learning curve involved. Can you offer any advice to a new user? I can see that it is a very involved program with a ton of options. What do you suggest? Ray

I just googled and found this. This is for Open Office. If you need kerning only for selected parts of your text, follow these steps: Highlight the passages of your text for which kerning needs to be enabled. Select Format > Character. Select the Position tab. In the "Spacing" section, check the check box Pair kerning. For Word, do the same except go to the Format/Font/character Spacing............

Well, for all of you who have been following along with my vibration/noise problem, let me tell you this. I AM A VERY HAPPY CAMPER RIGHT NOW. I managed to take care of the knocking sound and after fixing the main drive bearing problem by center punching around the bearing hole on both sides, that bearing no longer floats around. I took the bearing seals off and packed the bearing full of synthetic grease. On reassembling everything, I made sure that I tightened all the screws a bit more this time around. I can now run the saw at any speed I choose and it doesn't shake anymore or knock. I did also find that the 3 feet of my saw stand are pounding on the wood floor of my shop. They are 4 x 4 and the whole stand is pretty heavy but I'm going to put carpet under them so muffle the pounding sound coming from them. All in all, a very productive day. Tomorrow, I am going to do some cutting. I need a ton of practice. I just have to find something to make that is more than just practice lines and circles. Oh happy me. Thanks to all of you who have helped me fix this thing. Now, I don't have to think about buying another saw. Ray

I looked at that 30" saw and it seems like you'd have to have the arms of a orangatang to use it. I'll be patient and wait for a good used EX21 to come around. Or a Hegner. Or whatever the next Cadillac of saws might be. I know I have to save a ton of water bottles and cans to get one. Ray

I see you and Runa and I are neighbors. Only a couple of hours apart.

I was just wondering if it's a knock off of the Excalibur.

Can you tell us what blade you are using and what you are trying to cut with it? If you are cutting something very thin with a very coarse blade that might cause it too.

I love what you have done Runa and if it were me, I'd be putting them out there for sale. This is the right time of year to do it too. I see that Amazon is going to be opening something similar to Etsy too. Should be interesting. P.S. I see we are neighbors. Not far apart. Ray

I was reading some postings on Facebook and came across this. Interesting. http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-trade-series-ex-21-scroll-saw-101772

Thanks for clearing that up. I have watched this series until my eyes fell out. I keep referring back to them too. Very good stuff. I even went so far as to download them and keep them in a video file. I use Windows Movie Maker to "stitch" them all together into a movie. Thanks again though.

Thanks again Kevin. I am going to do just that tomorrow.

Which Kevin are you referring to? I see we have two here. Also, if you can point me in the direction on youtube, I'd be very appreciative.

I mounted mine to my workbench which is separate from my saw. No vibration at all. Works great.

Item number 60643. Call your store and verify stock. Here is a pic.

Thanks Kevin. I was thinking of that too. I'll give that a try. I just hope that it will all "tighten" up the bearing too as it seems that maybe the aluminum has stretched and allowed the bearing to float in the hole. That could set up some vibration so tightening it up by swedging the hole a bit may keep it from moving around. Thanks for all your help. It's nice to have someone who has been through it to suggest stuff. Ray

That would a long drive for me Randy. I could buy a new saw for less. Ha! R

Thanks. I have read that website many times and I have also done the turning of that rod both in and out. I was trying to get the tension on the arm increased and also to take care of the knock sound. After doing some real research this afternoon, I found that the two pieces that we contacting each other were the two that I mentioned above. Tomorrow, I'm going to remove some metal and give them the clearance they need. I did also find that the sealed bearing is not tight within the end of the drive rod. It moves in and out. I pushed it back in all the way and within a few seconds of running, it had walked it's way back out almost to the point of failure. Like I said, I'm going to try to tighten it up with a paper shim and press it back in to see if that fixes it. I did find the ereplacementparts part mentioned for the $30+ dollars. It is actually cheaper from DeWalt but by the time I add the shipping cost on, the two places are about the same. I guess I'll have to order a new one if my "fix" doesn't work out. I think it comes with new bearings on both ends so that's a plus. Little by little, I'm finding all the problems that need fixing. I sure hope I end up with a good usable saw when it is all done. I'm also going to bid on a used Hegner on eBay that may become my "second" saw. Ray

I just got my latest sale catalog today and they are on sale for $39.99. If you don't have a store near you they will ship one from their warehouse. Ray There is an LED replacement bulb that fits this light.

Can you tell me if that sealed bearing on the large end of the connecting rod is a pressed in bearing or is it just sort of floating in the rod? I just found that bearing to be "floating" in the connecting rod. I thought it was supposed to be a press fit. I'm going to do some more research but I thought I'd ask you seeing as how you have replaced both pieces. If it supposed to be a press fit, I'm going to try to shim the bearing with some paper and try pressing it back into the connecting rod. I also found some of the "racket" on the upper are out where the arm tension rod goes through the arm. It is hammering on one of the blade arms. I don't know how to explain it but in the diagram it is part number 10 and rod number 24 hitting together. I'm going to file the arm down a bit and give it more clearance. I have also filed down the under side of part number 80 to give it some clearance. I am going to get all the vibration and noise out of this saw yet. I would be curious to know if that bearing is supposed to float in the connecting rod though. Thanks for your help. Ray

I just found out that Woodcraft stores sells them and they are priced pretty well unless you want them by the gross. Ray

Go to Harbor Freight if there is one near you. They have a very nice lighted magnifier with articulating arm for $40 or less. I love mine. I hope this helps. Also, I was having the same trouble as you with these tiny blades and instead of trying to hold them in my fingers and guide the blade into the holder, I use a pencil magnet to hold the blade in it's correct position and insert it into the holder. It works really well. Ray