OCtoolguy
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Everything posted by OCtoolguy
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Edward, I'm sort of confused by your statement regarding the leveling of the "tables" on your bandsaw. There should only be one table and a pin that goes into a hole on the side of the single table that puts both sides in alignment. Can you be more explicit on what it is you are having trouble with? I'M SORRY ABOUT WHAT I JUST WROTE, I WENT BACK AND LOOKED AT THE PICTURE OF YOUR BANDSAW. I've never seen one with two table before. I take it the one on the right is a fixed table so the leveling must be done with the primary table. Or, as an after thought, you might try to just remove the one on the left until you can get familiar with the saw. Also, as a suggestion, you might check around your area to see if any of the schools have a shop class. If you can find a high school or jr. college near you that offers a wood shop class, you can probably get some help there. Please keep asking questions here though as it keeps the rest of us thinking and that exercises the "grey matter" that tends to stagnate. Ray
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Dan, unless you have something way inside of your saw that has either come loose or broken or ???? It's a simple matter of removing the tension knob with an allen wrench and checking out the bushing that is in the tension lever housing. It's a bearing sleeve that travels within an eccentric groove and pulls on the tension rod. Has your saw always been this way? If so, it's a simple matter of "unscrewing" the rod a turn or two to give you move travel. It's really a simple mechanism. Oh, and when you have it apart, be sure to lubricate the parts with some grease, preferably synthetic grease. The main screw that holds the lever on has some blue "Lok-Tite" on it and makes removal a bit hard but not to worry. I have had mine off many times and I still haven't re-glued it yet. Ray
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No, I'm not sure what model they are but they have a dial and a digital read out on the front of the saw right under the table. I'm not sure what the slowest speed is/was but it's not all the much slower that the slowest speed on my 788. I was cutting today and I am very new so I use it on the slowest setting. It's plenty slow for me but I am still having trouble making the sharp turns and corners that are in the pattern I'm cutting. I realize it will all come to me with practice. My problem is, I am and always have been a perfectionist and it makes me mad to not do things well. I'm making a wall plaque that will be a gift if I can finish it without too many obvious errors. So far, so good. I'm working with 5/16" BB plywood. I haven't ruined it yet. Thanks. Ray
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If you have ever done any marquetry, it would be pretty tough to stack cut or even sandwich the veneer. Each piece is a piece of the picture and I can't imagine doing it that way. Ray
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My thinking exactly. I worry about depriving the motor of the amperage it needs to do it's job. But supposedly this person has figured out a way. Evidently, some of the Delta machines prior to the one that is a copy of the Dewalt had a system that would allow for slower speeds. When we both took the class on marquetry at Ken Cowell's home, he has some of the older Deltas that he has picked up along the way and we got the opportunity to use them. I'll have to wait and see but I thought I'd throw it out here. So many people here smarter than me. Ray
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Just curious about something. My neighbor and I both have the 788 saw. Hers is a type 2 and mine is a type 1. She wants to bring the speed down on hers below what the controller will allow. She has been in contact with someone who says he knows how to slow the saw down. My question, has anybody here on the SSV ever found a way to do that but without endangering the life of the motor/controller board? We are both doing some marquetry using very thin veneer and it would be nice to go very slow at times. If there is a safe way to alter the saws, I'd certainly be interested in knowing how. I figure it must have something to do with changing parts on the control board. I'm no electronics expert so I'll have to leave that to those who are. Ray
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My neighbor uses some 1/64" BB that she buys from Anderson Plywood in Anaheim, Ca. Here's the URL if interested. It's owned by a veteran and he has a WWII museum there too. http://www.aitwood.com/ Ray
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I want to take this time to thank you all for accepting me into the forum. I am especially thankful that Travis created this wonderful place for all of us to share. Have a wonderful and Happy Thanksgiving day. Ray
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Thanks a whole bunch Scott. I just installed it, got frustrated over having to establish an account. I managed to do that only to capture a pic and when I wanted to edit it, it took me to Snagit which I already had. But, now I have another learning curve to use it. Darn, will I never learn it all? Ray
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I see that is by TechSmith. I wonder if it's like Snagit.
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Believe me, if I could pry my wife loose from here, we'd be back there in a heartbeat. She says, if it gets cold, I ain't goin'. And if it gets hot, I ain't goin'. If only the rest of the country had the weather that we have here. I love it back there and it's on the top of my list of better places to live. Ray
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Are you anywhere near Dandridge, Tn? We have very close friends who retired from So. Cal. to Dandridge and they have a small farm now. We visited them a couple of years back and I would love to live where they are. Ray
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Well, I'm a newbie here and have not a lot of experience but I tried some of the Pegas blades in the MG #1-#3-#5 and so far I am very happy. I will have to decide what sizes to order on the next go-around. I only ordered a dozen of each but the next time I'll order a gross mixed. I ordered mine from Bear up in Canada before I heard of DnD. Next time they will get my order. Ray
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I bought one of the originals back in 1985 at the Woodworking show in Colorado Springs. It was a two speed the required changing the belt to a different pulley groove. It came with 80 free blades of all configurations. I never used it and ended up selling it to a neighbor but I'll bet the serial number on it might have been around 3 also. Ray
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We need some more symbols to click on. Don't ya think? Nothing over on the right seems to adequately reflect what we might want to convey. R
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That's a good question. Maybe give them a call. R
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Thanks so much Charley. Those pics are worth a million words.
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Exactly but using a "fill" command. I know it's there but I just didn't find it yet.
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I messed around with Paint too. I figured out how to do what you did but I couldn't figure out how to fill the arrows with a color different for the outline of them. But, I only messed for about 5 minutes before the activities director made me leave.
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I just checked into one that had a 20XXX serial number and it was late 92.
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Thanks Guys, this is not something I need nor have room for but I thought the price was good enough and it's located near me so it got my interest. I will give the ad a couple of days and see if there is any interest. If it's still there a day or two from now, I'll through out an offer. Ray
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Thanks Kevin. This is exactly what I'm hoping to find out. The saw appears to be in decent condition considering it's age. Would you consider $150 to be a decent price if it's not too worn in the area you spoke of? I might even be able to dicker on that. What is the deal with the motor/conroller? What goes wrong with them?
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Thanks Charley, it all sounds so simple. I even bought a big thick book on how to work with Gimp but it is still a mystery to me. I would love to sit in a classroom and have it all explained. I tried many youtube videos but even they are not the best for me. I'm too old I guess. I did just mess around with Photoscape and also Paint. It can see how Paint works but I even have trouble using it. I can't ever seem to find the right tool or do what I intend to do. Oh well, too many things to learn and not enough life left. Ray
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I just found a used RBI Hawk saw by the serial number 20735. Can anybody give me an idea how old it is and what to look for on it. The price is something that I can afford for a second saw. Also, if any of you Hawk owners who have the knowledge could fill me in on what can be done to upgrade this saw it would be helpful. I did find out from Bushton/Nilus just now that it was made in late 1992 and has the variable speed motor. It has the lower blade clamp that has a thumb screw and from what I read it must be put into some sort of a slot in the base to change the blade. That sounds like a no sale but if there has been an upgrade to it then I'd like to know about it. I can pick this saw up pretty cheap and I'm very tempted but I don't want to buy something that will not be fun to use. Please, help me fill in the blanks. Ray
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I found it and installed it but there is going to be quite a learning curve involved. I was hoping for something that would just give me a bunch of things that I could just drag and drop onto a picture. NOT! Ray
