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SCROLLSAW703

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  1. SCROLLSAW703
    the same exact thing just happened to mine, km. the bottom bearing in the pitman arm went out. Severe vibration showed up. So, i took the top bolt out, used a small crescent on the counter weight, took the allen wrench & got the bottom bolt out. if you're under the saw, facing the table, pull the allen wrench towards you to loosen the bottom bolt. no need to turn it upside down. you'll create more issues for yourself. when I got mine apart, sure thing. the bottom bearing seal was out & slingin' grease. I called Bushton & they sent me a new pitman arm with bearings installed. I still had some warranty left. my saw just is a year old. If i had to buy it, it ain't but $10. I've spent enough time around equipment to know if those bearings aren't pressed in right, you'll wreck a seal in the bearing......again. what's it's worth?
  2. SCROLLSAW703
    I've got casters on all four legs of my BM 26. I don't any more vibration than if it were sitting flat on its feet. My shop floor is wood, so no matter what, w/o ballst, I get a little vibration. It will pass the nickel test, so I just leave it be. As far as moving it, I put the casters on it for just that purpose. My shop is small, so I have to be able to move it around. I have all my heavy tools on casters. After two major back surgeries, my lifting abilities are pretty well gone. So, I have to make it easier to move some of my less "stationary" tools.
  3. SCROLLSAW703
    I shut the shop down friday evening, & been in the house w/the wife. I'll get cranked up again tomorrow. I don't have anything going on the saw at the moment. Been working on a quilt ladder for a customer. The rungs are all turned on the lathe. The runners are barn wood. I done glue ups for the rungs out of barn wood, as well. Still have some lathe work to do, then drill all the holes in the runners. It don't sound like much, but has been a labor intensive project. Hope to finish it by mid week so i can get the shop cleaned up, & start on Christmas ornaments.
  4. SCROLLSAW703
    good job, Iggy! good read, & good info!
  5. SCROLLSAW703
    well, thank you for the info old hudson. And as you'd expect, yes, the better part of the dust is under the saw deck bcause of the down stroke cutting, but that really wasn't what I was tryin' to get at, but rolf answered the question I was tryin' to get across. With a fan that close to the saw, it'd be like bustin' a hole in sack of chicken feathers, & holdin' it in the wind. You're going to have chicken feathers from hell to breakfast. Which is pretty much what I picture happening w/a fan that close to the saw. You'll have dust blown all over the shop. Now me bein' just a simple minded country boy, & as fate would have it, limited experience at the saw, it would appear to me that coming up with something like rolf described by attempting to attach a duct of some sort to the back of the fan & using the suction of the fan as the dust removal from the saw. I foresee something like that working far better than a fan blowing across the saw. And your shop is the same sq. footage as mine. I guess I should've worded my first post differently. Thanks Rolf. Ya answered my question. Old Hudson, thanks for your time & explanation. Now I've got an idea to work with. Enjoy your evening.
  6. SCROLLSAW703

    hello Mr. Ray. my name is Brad (scrollsaw703). We've given you a lot of advice to absorb about blades. All blades are 5" in length, & mostly plain end. Every blade will work in every saw on the market. There are several things most newbies get tangled up when it comes to blades. 

    I don't want ya to think I'm tryin' to tell ya what to do or anything like that, but were I you, I would spend some time doin' some research on blades before ya jump in to deep. A couple of the guys gave ya a link to get a blade reference page. Print it off & study it. Mark the ones ya figure you'll use the most, or are interested in, & ask questions here, or call wooden teddy bear & ask them about those blades. We're always here to help you, glad you jumped in & asked questions. Welcome to the forum, & like I said, just a couple thoughts for ya. If I can be of any help to ya, don't hesitate to pm me anytime. It'll go to my phone. enjoy your day my friend, Brad.

    1. OCtoolguy

      OCtoolguy

      Thank you for your kindness. I am doing just as you suggest at this point. Prior to my joining the forum, I purchased a sample pack from Flying Dutchman, a gross of 2/0 blades from OttoFrei because of the class I took, and also a couple of sizes of Olsen blades from Woodcraft. After reading all the glowing accounts of the Pegas blades, I ordered a couple of sizes of their modified geometry blades. I don't have a lot of cash tied up in any of them and it will give me a pretty large spectrum to get familiar with. If I can ever get past all the "honey-do's" that my wife wants done, I'll be out in my shop practicing with them. I printed off a bunch of practice patterns to play around with. There is a scroll saw class at the local Woodcraft store that costs $50 and I have been thinking of enrolling in it. Not sure yet. I think I have the basics down but just need to practice. Thanks again for your help. I truly appreciate it.

       

      Ray

       

    2. SCROLLSAW703

      SCROLLSAW703

      you're more than welcome, Mr. Ray. It's good to hear your are trying different sizes & different brands. I tried some of the pegasus blades a long time ago & truthfully, I wasn't all that impressed. But I've used Olson & Flying Dutchman since I first started over 25 years ago. I keep about 20 different sizes & types of blades in inventory. Very seldom will I do a project that requires just one size blade. I usually wind up using 2, sometimes 3 different sizes or types of blades. 

      I do quite a few Native American patterns, animal patterns, dream catchers, feathers, etc. And like I said, I cut my feathers for my dream catchers, & they are 3/16" thick, & very fragile. I use a #2/0 or #0 blade to cut them. 

      I don't know how long you've been scrollin' Ray, but, depending on your comfort & skill level, taking the class sure wouldn't do you any harm. And, ya might even learn a few things to pass on to help someone here. Only you will know the answer to that. 

      I'm self taught, & don't think for a minute if I had the chance to jump at it in the beginning, I sure would've taken a class or two.

      So far it sounds like you've got a plan, & are taking our advice to heart. Most don't. Just keep on keepin' on, & ask questions before it's to late, not afterward.

      Good luck, & keep in touch Ray.  Brad.

       

    3. OCtoolguy

      OCtoolguy

      Thanks Brad. It's nice to have a bit of "one on one" chat time. And you can call me Ray. I'm not a formal person. But, I will say that even at my advanced age I still say "sir" and "mam". 

       

      Ray

       

  7. SCROLLSAW703
    you won't be disappointed w/WTB. I buy all my blades from them, & most of my patterns. Excellent delivery time, & they double check their orders.
  8. SCROLLSAW703
    geez old hudson, your shop is nice & shiny!;) ya got any spare time, mine kinda needs shinin' up. how do ya get along with a fan that close to your saw? can you tell a difference in the dust around the blade area & blower? i have some sinus issues with walnut, & been tryin to figure out something to help with that when I'm workin' with it. I wear a mask with some woods, but don't cherish the thought of wearin' one all the time. I also realize breathin' the dust ain't good for my lungs. And i know how this may sound, but bein' an old truckdriver, I've breathed my share of grain dust over the years & it ain't good for nothin' but to create serious lung issues. Some of it is pretty nasty & heavy. Can even cause dust pnuemonia, & that is absolutely no fun!!! one more question, do you have some sort of a filter on your fan close to the saw? if so, what is it, Sir? thanks for your time.
  9. SCROLLSAW703
    take a couple blades & a scrap piece of wood to test drive it. Listen for any unusual noises, vibrations, etc. if it doesnt have any more use than on it, it should be same as new. Check the wedge & top arm assembly. That will tell the story. Otherwise, just make sure everything is in place. The adjustment rod is in ok shape. The table doesnt have any deep scratches, things like that. good luck! $350 is a good buy for a 220. If its in good shape.
  10. SCROLLSAW703
    Plywood wood will cut slower, depending on its thickness. Plywood is several layers of glue & thin wpod pressed together. Depending on what blade you're using, its not going to cut extremely fast, in my experience. I've been at this 25 years, & plywood is not the best to use for any project, unless it's 1/4". The plywood will dull your blade pretty fast bcause of the layers of glue. If you're cutting 1/2" or so, try a #4 or #5. Otherwise if it's 1/4", use a # 2. Try a polar blade. It'll cut better for you.
  11. SCROLLSAW703
    wow!! that's a new one! The first thought that came to mind is if the blade is installed correctly, but that has been mentioned. Then if your saw is bolted or clamped to your bench. And that has been mentioned. Not knowing anything about your saw, & you're sayin' you're cuttin' hardwood. No offense, but hardwood isn't the best to learn on, & expensive too. Your center piece has nothing to do with your saw "bucking." First of all, what blade(s) are you trying to use? Your bucking issue could be from to aggressive of a blade, & possibly being installed wrong. My advice would be to back up a little, spend some time with your operators manual. Learn about your machine before ya flip the power switch. Then get ya some pieces of pine, like from a pallet, or scrap pieces from hd, or such. They do have them, I've got them there myself. Then get yourself some #2, #3, & #4 blades. Draw ya some lines, curves, up & down lines, etc. on the pine pieces. Install a blade in your blade holders, teeth facing down. An easy way to tell if you've got the blade in correctly is to run your thumb up the blade. If you can feel the teeth with your thumb up the blade, it's installed correctly. Tension the blade til you get a high pitched "ping" when you lightly strum the blade. Flip the power switch & set your variable speed to about 2 or 3 to start. As your skills improve, so will your speed. Introduce your wood to the blade. LET THE BLADE DO THE WORK, & you just "steer" the wood like you would your car. Keep just enough pressure on the wood to keep it feedin' into the blade. Turn easy, small turns to follow your line. Just keep at it til you start getting the hang of it. It's really not rocket science, just a matter of concentration & willingness to learn. hope this helps. Don't hesitate to ask questions. That's how we learn. God bless, & make some sawdust.;)
  12. SCROLLSAW703
    KM, the 3/32" hex screw i was tellin' you about is on the underneath side of the top arm, in the cam release area. It's kinda hard to find the first time. If you've got a small mirror you can run along the bottom of the top arm & see it without standin' on your head, it's easier to find. Once ya find it, adjust it about a 1/4 of a turn, maybe a little more, just til your cam lock feels like it has a little resistance agin' it. Don't adjust it to much or it won't completely lock with a blade in the holders. Then squirt a puff of dry graphite in the hole just above that for lube of the cam.
  13. SCROLLSAW703
    If a 1/32" is all the "back & forth movement" you're gettin', & everything else is in line, no major noises to speak of, I'd have to say your movement is coming from the blade holders. Is it cuttin' ok? Following the line of your patterns ok? If it is, run it. You could try replacing the top & bottom blade holders. Just get one barrel holder & a new top blade holder & see if it changes anything, but I have my doubts. Are you gettin' any movement in your cam lock at the nose of the top arm? Or does yours have that? If it doesn't, that would rule that out. But if it does, there is an adjustment for the cam release, & lube it w/dry graphite in the top of the arm.
  14. SCROLLSAW703
    Sorry to hear about your Mrs., Rocky. Hope things are gettin' better. I know what ya mean about havin' somebody "smarter than I am" to help with things. I'm a self taught wood worker. Bein' in the trucking business all my life, I've had a lot fun the last 25 years learnin', but there's still things I have issues with & then frustration sets in. Then I have to start reading on the subject to get thru it. I've got a friend who's some years older than me, & been in construction for years. He helps me a lot with things I have issues with.
  15. SCROLLSAW703
    they look like they'd be hard to break. Looks like they'd work great in hardwood. Awesome cutting, Rolf. I just don't use spiral blades of any kind to be much of a hand with them. I keep several sizes on hand for various things, but would be great if I could find some of those, Rolf. I don't see any reason why they wouldn't work in our BM'S w/out any issues. Be a different blade to try & have around. Thanks for showin' us. I learned somethin' today.;)
  16. SCROLLSAW703
    well, first of all, to make ya feel better, there ain't a dumb question, boss, unless it didn't get asked. When I started 25 years ago, I read a book about scroll sawing, & it said throughout it to get several blades & try them in different projects. There are a thousand ways to answer to your question, Ray. A good rule of thumb is the thicker the material, the bigger the blade. The thinner the material, the smaller the blade. And, the smaller the blade, the more tension. The bigger the blade, the less tension. We all have our preferred blades to work with. My preference is Olson & FD. Most all of my projects are hardwood. I plane my lumber to 1/2" or there abouts for most projects, unless a different idea strikes me. I use #2, #3, & #4 skip tooth blades as a rule. I cut my own feathers for my dream catchers from 3/16" planed wood. I'll use a #0 or #1 skip tooth for those. Fretwork usually about the same. For lettering & detail in projects, I'll use #0 - #3 polar blades because they are a thinner dimension blade, leave a smooth, clean cut, & less fuzzies to deal with. If I'm cuttin' outside cuts, or minimal designs, I use a #5 skip tooth blade. You'll find your blade size has a lot to do with your cutting speed & projects, & wood species. You just have to find a blade that works best for you & the type of cutting you do.
  17. SCROLLSAW703
    you could probably go to their website & download a manual for your saw.
  18. SCROLLSAW703
    Thats kinda what I was tryin' to get at, km. How it's measured, & where? And Steven, I'm perfectly aware that ALL scroll saws have back & forth movement. I'm a Hawk owner myself. And owned a 220 until I wore it out. What shape is the wedge & back of the top arm in? you might be getting some movement there? If that wedge is worn, or the top arm is worn, you'll get some movement. If it's extremely worn, it'll have to be sent to bushton for repair, & a new wedge.
  19. SCROLLSAW703
    you shouldn't have any back & forth blade movement, other than what your blade holders allow. If your tension isn't adjusted right, you may get some movement. Have you got the barrel type blade holders?
  20. SCROLLSAW703
    So is it a type of spiral blade, or? What did you use them for?
  21. SCROLLSAW703
    I agree 100% Wayne! If the wood isn't acclimated to your shop, that makes a big difference in the way it cuts. As mentioned, moisture content should be around 5% - 7%.
  22. SCROLLSAW703
    try slowing your blade speed down a little bit. What breed of machine are you currently usin' to work with? that will help us out to help you. Also, what size blade & type are you currently using to cut your letters? With 1/2" oak, a #2, #3 or #4 blade will work perfect. But, take into consideration you're cutting hard wood. Try using a polar blade of one of those sizes & you'll end your tear out. If you're using an aggressive blade, that would explain your tear out.
  23. SCROLLSAW703
    I keep a spiral in a blade holder hangin' in the hanger of the Hawk just for getting a tight spot opened up for a flat blade to get started in, or for veining. Otherwise I very seldom use them. I keep different sizes on hand for different projects. Don't expect shiny results the first few times ya use them. They do take some practice. I've found the tighter the tension ya keep on them, the better they work. jmo.
  24. SCROLLSAW703
    one is for a lamp, the other is for a drip tank if you're cutting materials that need some sort of lube or cooling during cutting.
  25. SCROLLSAW703
    I've found with the BM it's pretty easy to over tension smaller blades. I run mine a little tighter than some because I'm a perfectionist, & have tall expectations of not only the blade, but the saw, too. I cut a lot of detailed projects, from Native American work to lettering. I'm yet to break a blade, or lose tension. My BM is a year old this month. Keeping the saw well tuned, clean, & everything in line is an important aspect of the Hawk. The longer you use it, & more projects you endure with it, the more you'll get to know it. The Hawk saws are unlike any saw you've ever used. Some things on it are more touchy than other parts. Read the manual til you can't stand to read it anymore, ease into it with hands on. They are more simple than you realize, but as complicated as you make it. You do have my curiosity up about something. You keep saying yours is a 26 Ultra. Mine is a 26. I looked on their website & didn't see a 26 ultra, unless I overlooked something. What's the difference?
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