SCROLLSAW703

Mr. Les, did reality hit ya before or after ya fell off yer stool at the saw?:-D

Hello Mr. Les. Tea lights are a small candle about the diameter of a 50 cent piece, and about a 1/2'' deep, usually in a small tin. Some aren't. They can be had at hobby lobby, walmart, a candle shop, any place in the mall that sells candles. Especially around the holidays. We ordered our battery operated tea lights out of one of Mary Anns' hobby magazines. We got like 30 or so for $10. I still have some in the shop. I feel a lot safer with them in our tea light projects than a live candle. I always give folks the option of the battery type light, or them purchasing their own candle, and explain to them why we chose the battery type lights. Most folks understand our reasoning behind it, others are stuck on the traditional candle. And I explain the hazards of wood and fire to them, and also, in the past, I have had a couple customers even try to make me replace their project because it caught on fire using a candle. I relieved myself of those responsibilities when they bought the project with the choice of the battery type lite or without one.

True enough, Mr. Ray! WD - 40 isn't worth the the can it's put in. PB Blaster is a good product. Well worth the money. But if you're using the wheel on your grinder, like Mr. Ray, I would highly recommend investing in a brass wheel. Especially for thread clean up, anything aluminum or brass, things like this. A steel wire brush has a tendency to dig into softer metals during the cleaning process. A brass wheel is a softer metal wheel, and less apt to want dig in to softer threads and softer metals during cleaning. The diesel fuel will help to dissolve the rust and corrosion on your bolts, and inside the nuts. There are other cleaners you could use, but diesel fuel is my go to because of its "aroma";), & and its rust dissolving qualities. An old truck driver takes in the diesel aroma every chance he gets!:):) Every one has their own recipe. Just figure out what works best for you, and go with it.

I wouldn't use a real candle. I started out using real candles in our Christmas tea lights, & for to worryin to much about folks lack of respect for fire to wood. So I ordered some battery operated tea lights. Just as much light, alot less worry, and they upped the sale of the tea lights!

Hello Him. If you've got the bolts & nuts out & apart, soak them in some diesel fuel awhile, then use your wire brush on the threads. The wire brush won't bother the threads any, try not to use extreme force into your wire brush. When you put them back together, use just a touch of anti seize on the threads and it will help protect them from rust, too. No need to goober it all over, you'll just have a trap for sawdust, and a mess every time you touch it. It just takes a little dab, and the nut & threads will take care of the rest.

It's just a noise. It happens. And it'll happen again. I assure you. Don't let it excite you. Learn to relax & listen to your saw. Let the sound of it calm ya, but be aware of what's happening. Keep your tension adjusted proper, change blades before they break, not after.;) And somethin' else to practice, don't put your hands on power equipment when you're tired, upset, or in a bad way. It's a sure recipe for disaster. The scroll saw is the safest tool in the shop, next to your hankerchif. But it has teeth in one end of it, so be cautious. Time & experience will ease your fears. My other advice'd be to pitch the plywood in the trash and either use wood or Baltic birch ply. Wood especially if you're cuttin' sharp corners & pointy edges. It doesn't have voids in it, & won't break out.;) Keep makin' sawdust! God bless!

Hello J, Regardless of whether it is a flat blade or "regular" spiral you're using, they do require more tension than a flat blade. Like Roberta mentioned also, they do stretch in use. Especially if you are doing quite a bit of side to side work with them. When I set the tension on a new blade, I always set it just tight enough to get a good "pluck" on it. Then I run the saw for a minute or so on half speed. This "stretches the blade, and takes the "new" out of it. Then I adjust my tension on the spiral blade to a good, snug tension. Not enough tension it pulls out of the blade older, but good and tight. You should hear a high pitched "ping" when you strum the blade. You are ready to make some sawdust! Remember to let the blade do the cuttin' and you just guide and feed your project. Adjust your speed to the point where you can keep up, the is doin' a good job of cuttin', and you're not forcing the project into the blade. When you start that, check your tension or replace the blade. Hope this helps. God Bless.

Hello Edward. Where you have used pine, it famous for twisting & curling, etc. My personal suggestion would be to use an oil base clear coat such as Helmsman or The like. I have excellent luck with Helmsman. I use their exterior clear coat on most of my large projects. I don't use anything but hardwoods in my projects, but, my smaller projects I use Watco clear coat either in the rattLe can, or I air spray it on. Same with the Helmsman. They told their product was not made for an air sprayer. I didn't have to thin it, I used it right on out the can & shot my projects. I always use 2 coats to insure coverage, and it gives a much better look.

Why waste your time? Even if you put on a surface coat first, it's just going to keep soaking up the stain coat after coat, until you eventually saturate the sawdust with enough stain until it won't take anymore. Remember, MDF is nothing more than pressed sawdust & glue. If your frame wasn't overly big, you might try dipping it, face down in your stain, and just let it set awhile. Then take it out, wipe it down good & let it air dry. That brings up another question of whether or not it would ever dry. I have my doubts, but if you hang it, & wipe it dry every so often, ya might have half a chance of it dryin'. My experience with it hasn't been good. And I live in Kansas where the air DRY!

your plastic air line is an easy fix. Bushton has the updated locline kite for about $15 or there abouts. Any issues you have with it, parts, etc. if we aren't able to answer your questions here, Nicki at Bushton can! Welcome to the Hawk family, Sir!

hello KM. yes, it was me. In the manual for the BM 226, it recommends powdered graphite for lube the wedge and for the tension release at the nose of the top arm. I bought mine at Napa. It's just a small tube of dry graphite. It just takes a snort, & you're set. don't try to force a whole boat load in the tension release because it'll just end up on your saw deck. It just takes a small snort, too.

First & foremost, imo, ditch the plywood! Get yourself some good 1/4" baltic birch ply. It will be easier on your blades, and less headaches for you, especially when it comes to your inside cuts. Next, put the spiral blades on the back burner for right now, & invest in some #1, #3, & #4 polar blades, ultra reverse, & skip tooth blades. If you have plans of going the route of stack cutting, and if your experience is limited to this point, I would use two pieces of baltic birch with a 1/4" backer. In this particular case, I would use #3 polar blades for the good percentage of the project, and #1 polar blades for your tight inside cuts. The reason I personally recommend polar blades is because they leave a clean cut, and are easy to maneuver around sharp corners & tight turns, & leave a look like no other. Make sure you drill entry holes through your stack and into your backer. Some forget that! The next thing I would be concerned with is your blade speed. The breed of your saw makes no difference. They are all designed to the same thing. Remember, you are cutting 1/4" baltic birch, which is a far better quality material than plywood. And the faster your blade speed, the faster you're going to destroy your project. So easy does it. I'd start out between 1/2 & 3/4 on your variable speed until you get used to the blade and how it handles. Then, if you feel comfortable, speed up a little. Last but not least, your blade slippage. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! That doesn't accomplish anything! Take your thumb screw out of the blade holder & look at the blade side. I'm willing to bet it's goin' to be smooth as a baby's butt! To fix that issue, get yourself a 4" x 4" piece of 100 grit sand paper, and take that thumb screw and rub it over your sandpaper. What this does is rough up the holding part of the thumb screw. I would touch up your top blade holder, too. This should solve part of your issue. Do not over tension! That could be part of why you're breaking blades. Your blade should have just a high "ting" sound when it's plenty tight. Stop there! But continue to check your tension until you change out the blade. You can go to woodenteddybear.com and order all sizes of flying Dutchman & Olson blades. My apologies for the length, but hope it helps you. Sawdust.

Oh hell JT, what difference does it make? If the gentlemen want covers for their saws, than so be it. I've got every one of my scroll saws covered, & my table saw, too. The reason being is because when I am in the shop & have finish work or stainin' to do, I do it by air sprayer. The covers prevent any over spray or carry over in the air from landing on the saw decks. And it keeps them cleaner & easier to look after. Each to their own JT. Oh hey, don't forget to turn the a/c down under your scroll saws. I'd hate to hear ya had to build a fire under them to get them to run! Enjoy the day, JT!☺

Congratulations Mr.J, and welcome to the Hawk family!

If you call Nikki at Bushton & ask her about it, they have a lady there in Bushton they use that has a sewing shop. She makes covers for all their saws. And yes, she has the patterns to create the cover, you just tell her what you'd like it made from. I don't have her number anymore, that's why I suggest you call Nikki.

Well J, not all of them will be in the field. Make no mistake, bushton industries is a small, but extremely busy operation in more than one way. Yes, they are Farmers, and have crops & ground to tend to, but there are also plenty of other folks in the office & their shops that are extremely knowledgeable in every piece of equipment they build. This saw you are goin' to look at, keep in mind Jt's words. These are $1200 saws brand new. And I agree with JT, shoot her an offer of $100 - $125 after you've given it the once over, & made sure everything is satisfactory. Keep the small things in the back of your mind that need fixin' because even at the small amount they cost, it is still cash you have to invest before the saw is usable. And yes, I agree with KM & JT, that wedge looks albeit new. Just needs a snort of graphite before ya put the torque to it.;) You'll do fine, J. You're gettin' a steal! If you don't leave with it, I'll call her & buy it myself, ask her to ship it to Kansas!:):) Invest in RED J! You won't regret it, my friend! God Bless!

I don't see the humor in the question, KM. I simply asked an informal question. The blade holders we have with the Hawks at the present will be suitable, I have no doubt. But if it takes a Chuck to wisely use Pegasas blades, count me out! I don't see the need to make modifications to my saw for blades I won't use. I'll just stay where I'm at & keep using Olson & Flying Dutchman. I know the blades, and won't have to buy modifications just to use their blades. Thank you for yout input, KM.

Yes, the bigger motors are more problematic, & do not run as fast as the new ones do. Nor do they run as cool as the new ones. That is part of the issue w/the old motors. And KM is correct, the wedge should have a dull point to it. If it to sharp of a point, you can file it down some. If it is rounded off, it's shot & will not hold tension. Please keep in mind this the critical part of Hawks tension system. It revolves around that wedge. As I mentioned before, and from experience, If that wedge is rounded off to the point where it will not hold tension, most likely the top arm will need machine work to correctly fit a new wedge. And only Bushton themselves can look after that for you. And yes, the spring mentioned is for nothing but to keep the top arm up when changing blades. It can be bought at your local hardware store. The manual should show the size of the spring. Also, another thing, check out the condition of air bellows & air line. If it's in sorry condition, Bushton has replacement locking & bellows. A 15 minute fix. Take all this into consideration when you're looking at the saw. If it needs repairs, point it out to the owner & make her an offer from there. Be fair with your offer, & most of All, be kind. God Bless & good luck!

That's the one, J. You're lookin' at the right picture.

Personally, were it me, I would ask her to send you a picture or two of the back end of the saw where the tension spring is. If it's what I think it is, two screws & five minutes will fix that issue. No doubt, like KM mentioned, the tension at the nose of the top arm needs adjusted. And that's a snap to adjust as well as long as the cam isn't shot. My next concern would be the shape of the tension wedge at the back of the saw. They are two completely different things. If that wedge is shot, it won't hold tension, either. My guess would be, by the looks of it, it uses the square blade holders, which are easier to use than the barrel type holders. I would be cautious of the the motor & control box. If it hasn't been looked after well, the control box fills with sawdust & can create a short out in the variable speed or on/off switch. The motor, if it's the older saw, may have a tendency to power down in thicker material, surge under pressure, or even flip the overload if it is in very bad shape. The conversion kit & replacement motor for it is about $300. I believe KM mentioned that. If that wedge at the back of the saw is to far gone, it will mean sending the top arm to Bushton for machine work or replacement, & replacing that wedge. It has to have constant lubrication. Were I you, I would look it over & get the serial number off it. Run it, try a few blades in it & If it will hold tension & cut that lumber storage stacked on it, SERIOUSLY move the variable speed around to see what the motor will do. LISTEN TO THE SAW CAREFULLY! Then I'd call Bushton & chat with them to get some idea of it's age & value. For the money, it's a steal for a 226. I gave $1200 for my BM 226 right from the plant. I picked it up. Call Bushton & talk to them about it. You'll be glad you did!

Have you seen them for our Hawk saws, KM? I've been followin' these threads, too, and am interested in them. I don't use pegasus blades, but am seriously thinkimg of going to them. Especially the modified geometry blades.

I sand all my blades before I start cutting. Especially if I'm doing fretwork and lettering. It sure makes a big difference in the looks of the end project! Thanks for passin' that on, Mr. Rocky!:)

good point, KM. The wider the blade, the bigger the foot print. Your bigger flat blade would work ok for your outside cuts, I would question maneuverability. But for your inside cuts, you're going to want to go with a #3 or thereabouts in order to get thru your tighter turns. Especially in the star & your other cuts. Something else to consider, if you sand the right side of your blade after you get the tension set, run your saw and hold a piece of 220 grit sand paper agin' the right side of the blade for a few seconds. Your blade will track straighter, & cut just a little cleaner.;) Keep makin' sawdust, my friend! There is nothing you aren't able to do on your Craftsman that we do with our high end saws, Sir. I started out on a Craftsman, & still have one as a back up saw! Keep pluggin' away at this. You'll be makin' your projects to sell before ya know it! God Bless!

I like your idea, Sir! I'm gettin' ready to start a fair sized project for a ranch here in the county. They want a plaque made for the celebration of their 100th year in the Herford cattle business. I may steal your idea for my 226!;)

I haven't had a chance to get to the shop yet. My apologies gentlemen. My bride is more in need of My attention right now with her knee. I'll go over tonight & get the specs & post them. Again, my apologies for not gettin the info on here.