SCROLLSAW703

Howdy folks, Thank you for the advice and help! JT, I greatly appreciate your thoughts and input, Sir. My thinking was right along your input. Mr. Kevin, you voiced concerns directly crossed my mind as well. Two things I feel like I have in my favor is the walnut and white oak is extremely dry and has been in my shop for some time. I am not as concerned about cupping Kevin, as I am cutting to deep of a bevel and not being able to get the right fit. I do have have a drum sander. Not a monster sander, but it's a 10'' sander. Big enough for my meager little shop, and does what I purchased it for. It's a Jet sander. I purchased it from a friend of mine here locally who bought it new, and he builds custom furniture. He had big ideas for the sander, but didn't use it like he thought he would, so he sold it to me for a good price.Now I have NO IDEA where to look on Amazon for the sandin' rolls, paper, or whatever it's called for it. he told me his bride always got it off Amazon pretty cheap, but never told me where to look for it.:( Luckily, he had a few different grits with it when I bought the sander. It has served me well. I sometimes use it more than my planer for some things. Mr. Jim, Thank you for your input, sir. My intentions are to cut to the right, using 1/2'' thick wood. There are some perty intricate figures to cut out in the bull's face, but then I'll have cut the outside angle when I cut him out of the piece of white oak. Then I'll Have to set the pattern up to cut the pattern out of the walnut with approximately the same angle of cut to accept the bull head. Am I thinking along the right lines, Mr. Jim? I'd appreciate your thoughts and input, Sir. Yours as well, Mr. JT. Thanks again, fellas for the help. I'll look in after bit to see what you've come up with. Sawdust703(Brad)

Howdy folks, I am beginning a project for a ranch here locally that is going to end up having a Hereford Bull Head cut from white oak, along with their brand cut in white oak, and then the both of them inlaid in walnut.That's my plan, anyway. Allowin' of course that my ol' health will let me accomplish this feat. I have done quite a bit of inlay work, but have never cut anything at an angle for the inlay. I have always cut things tight enough I had to press them in place, then use fine sawdust to fill in any small gaps. This one is goin' to be in a 20" x 20" plaque. I have started drillin' entry holes in the designs in the bull's head. I haven't even started on the brand yet. Health limitations and community involvement have slowed me down. Both the white oak and walnut is planed to 1/2'' thick, sanded to finish sand grade, and ready to cut. I reckon my questions are, seein's how I've never worked inlays with angles, how much of an angle do I need to cut at to get the bull's head and the brand to set back in the walnut at face level? Say 3* or 4*? Or is that to steep? And at a right hand angle, I am guessing. I am makin' this plaque for this Ranch for their 100th year in the cattle business. Across the top, I plan on cuttin' the name of their Ranch in Western Lettering about 3/4'' tall in a partial circle shape, kinda like the sign at the driveway of the ranch. But I'd like the bull's head and brand to set face level of the plaque when I get them cut. This is one of two parts of scrollin' I ain't the best at. Compound cuttin' is the other one. I gotta perfect the bevel cuttin' first. Any assistance would be appreciated. Thank you in advance. Sawdust703(Brad)

Howdy Mr. Kevin, Sorry to hear about your car project, my friend. Looks like it may have turned out for the best as it were anyway, huh? Somebody was trying to tell ya that ya had the wrong pkg'ing, brother, & you just didn't hear the voice.;) Awesome to see your ornament sales are off to a fantastic start for you, My friend! I was talkin' to a friend of mine on the East Coast last night about a craft show he is preparing for the first week of December. He asked me to do some scroll saw ornaments, some tea lights, and a couple crosses for him for his booth. He is going to have quite a bit of his lathe work involved in it. I hope it does well for him! This is the first craft show he has ever done. Enjoy your day, Mr. Kevin! Sawdust703(Brad)

Howdy Mr. Ray, That's great to hear, Sir! I have never been much of a video type of feller, but if you have located a source you like, & will help you, Sir, AWESOME!! That's how ya learn, my friend! Now ya got me anxious to see what you're goin' to create

Excellent work! The magnet is a weak spot in the 220 VS, & is known for breakage. From the sounds of it, Your saw has had some backyard mechanic work done to it as it is, & presented more issues to be dealt with. Fine job of diggin' in & figurin' out the issue! Keep crankin' out the sawdust! Sawdust703(Brad)

Howdy Mr. Ray, So you're a wantin' to be a wood machinist, are ya?:) Awesome Idea!! I kinda been kickin' around the notion to create one of those Grandfather clocks what has all wood gears in it, and is about 5' or 6' tall, kinda fancy like.;). I have cut a lot of different sized gears out of different materials. Your cuts have to be pretty precise, Mr. Ray, or your gears won't come together quite right. There were several neat patterns in back issues of the Scroll saw magazine. Man, and don't make my thinker box go to work tryin' to remember which ones, neither.;) You could go their website and do a search for them, I reckon. And like Mr. Les, go to Amazon and start to huntin' for a book on them. Might I ask, fine Sir, have ya been to your local library just to have a look see at what they might have available, or have access to? It might be worth a shot before ya buy a book ya may not care for or end up usin', my friend.;) I'll do that here with our meager little community library. And, sometimes, I'll even locate a couple on Amazon and then take myself down to the library and see if they have access to those books, and if they do, I'll check them out and study them a little before I purchase them. Happy huntin', youngster!:) Keep crankin' out the Sawdust!! Sawdust703(Brad)

Howdy Miss Brenda, I sincerely hope this finds still in thought about spiral blades, Ma'am. We all have our own thoughts, views, uses, and preferences when it comes to spiral blades. Some use nothing but spirals for their projects and claim excellent success. Others of us that don't have a full time use for them can't say the same, as Kevin and a couple others mentioned. Personally, I keep several sizes in inventory from a #2/0 up to a #5 spiral. I use them for various things in a number of different projects. Most of my projects are highly detailed, and I am not always able to get "just the right look" I'm after with a flat blade, so I'll use a spiral to shape around the inside of sharp corners, real tight spots, or openin' up a section where I need to get a place started but don't really have quite the right position for a flat blade. Like the inside of ears, or feathers, eyes, fingertips, leaf veins, etc. I honestly don't have an opinion on the flat blade spirals. For a beginnin' hand at the saw with spirals, I would have to concur with the other folks here, though. The flat blades would sure be a might easier to fit into your blade clamps, and get used to til ya figure out how to "drive" the spiral blade. I would also have to go along with what has already been mentioned about watching the blade close, and make sure it has good tension against it. Not over tension, but good and snug. It'll drive better, and last longer for ya. And the spiral is very famous for following the grain of the wood, or if ya locate a soft spot in your line of cut, the spiral can wreck a project pdq! I use Flying Dutchman and Olson blades myself, Ma'am, on account of I've used them for years, and know how they cut and feel. You have been given a wheelbarrow full of advice, and it's all facts. Get yourself a sample pack of the different sizes, or try a dozen or two of a couple different breeds. You just have to figure out what blade(s) work best for you, your machine, the species of wood you're cutting, and the type of project you're tyin' into. Avoid plywood at all cost if possible. Especially just startin' out. Get some miles under your belt with spirals first, then start learnin' the hard lessons, Ma'am. Best of luck to you, Ma'am. Keep crankin' out the sawdust!:) sawdust703(Brad)

Ray, I was going to mention the same as JT just did. Those have been changed out a long time ago. You might get lucky and get in touch with Delta themselves and figure out something to get yourself a quick release kit for your saw. Just tell them the details, and give the representative the serial number of the saw. Ya never know, sometimes they may offer ya deal ya can't refuse, Sir. It's worth the phone call, in my estimation. I sure would, anyway! It's your saw. I have a Delta bench top jointer that my Bride bought for a Father's day gift several years ago, and it has gave excellent service, Ray. It has nothing but hardwood over it, and I have never even moved the blades! It still has the original blades in the original positions, and still doing a fine job! (sawdust703) Brad

Mr. Bill, Thank you Sir. I was concerned I may have overstepped my bounds.:( You may be on to somethin' there with the different colors, Mr. Bill. I've cut a lot of cherry myself, and have always bought rough cut from the same place. The cherry comes out of Missouri and is cut at 1'' x 12" - 18" wide x 14' long. It is always good and dry, but I have noticed when I get into some of the darker colored part of the cherry, blades dull faster, and cutting slows down considerably. The lighter, pinkish colored parts I have cut seem to be easily cut, and I don't have any burning issues or blade trouble. Most of my projects are highly intricate, and have several small cuts in them, so you would expect some burning in that scenario. I would be interested to know what the difference in sap level is in the darker cherry wood as to the lighter color, Mr.Bill.

Howdy Mr. Ray, No Sir, there is a difference between the two. It's actually shellac, Mr. Ray. My apologies for the confusion. I buy it in quart size cans here. The brand name I use is Bull's Eye. It's in a yellow can. You can buy it in different shades, and tints, or tint it your own self. You can even buy the shellac flakes and make your own, too. That's to much trouble for this ol' cowboy, though. It's just as easy to get it already made. I keep it around in the rattle can, too, for touch ups and such, but I don't know if you Californians can buy it that way. You kinda have to be careful with the shellac because it makes a sticky mess. Make sure whatever you're spraying around is covered. But just spray in light fast strokes over your project, and you will see the shine where you've sprayed. Like I said, I usually use two coats just to make sure everything is covered. Now there is a secret to shellac, Mr. Ray. Each coat has to "meld" together in order for it to look right. Some folks use it for their final finish, but I use it as a sealer and extra protection for the wood. So spray on light coats of it, and you'll be ok. Don't try to get it all on in one coat, because you'll have a hell of a mess if you do. As far as the clear coat, you can get it in quart cans, rattle cans, whatever too. I've been usin' Watco for years, so that's just a preference. I like the Minwax gloss clear coat, too. It has a real perty glow to it! I use gloss clear coat myself. Some fellers use semi gloss, which ain't quite as shiny as the gloss clear coat. But I use the gloss clear coat as my final finish because like I said earlier, I want my projects to have an "attention getter" look to them so when folks display them in their homes, they have something that folks will notice and want to talk about with them.;) I get a lot of feedback from my customers about how their projects get lots of compliments and folks are really fascinated with the the detail and finish work. That's what makes this hobby worth the time and effort, Mr. Ray. To hear compliments like that, and have folks braggin' about your work.;) You know you have accomplished somethin', my friend, and their ain't nothin' like a satisfied customer!:) Call me anytime Mr. Ray! Sawdust703(Brad)

Howdy Miss Irene, Yes Ma'am, you would be ok to use natural oils for that. There is another oil on the market, too. I use it myself when I make beer mugs, drinking cups, and bowls on the lathe. I'll have to go to the shop and and look at the label and I will send you a pm with the name of it. It works really well. I usually put on about three coats of it, and then after it has had a chance to get good and soaked in, then I buff it out, and use Thompson's wax on the outer part of the bowl, cup, beer mug, whatever it is. I have used clear coat too, Ma'am. Once it is dry and cured it is supposed to be ok for human consumption. And I have lacquered and clear coated the outside of different things that were bein' used for human consumption, and not had any trouble. Sawdust703(Brad)

Howdy folks, I must be the short bull in the pen, on account of I'm still usin' blue painters tape. I do as much of my final sanding as possible before I even begin to consider placement of the pattern. It may sound bassackwards, but, especially with my feathers, little butterflies and crosses, once they are cut, they are to fragile to do much sandin' on. It's enough of a job to get the pattern off without breakin' the project to pieces, much less to go to sandin' on it. Sometimes, on those little pieces, I'll soak the tape with paint thinner from a spray bottle, then let it set awhile so the thinner can dissolve the glue on the tape, then the tape comes right off w/out destroyin' the project. As for them shippin' labels, or the transfer pages, I ain't never used any of them. I been readin' about you fellers usin' them. Where are ya gettin' them? Compared to the blue painter's tape, is it more cost efficient? Around here, I am payin' anywhere from $6 - $8.50 a roll for the 2'' blue tape. How is it to clean off your projects? Does it take an act of congress to get it cleaned off, or is it an easier clean up than than the painter's tape?? Enlighten me some, folks. If ya wouldn't mind. Sawdust703(Brad)

Howdy Mr. Ray, You could use your danish oil finish, too, if ya have a mind to, but I would try it on some scrap pieces first because it may not be the look you want. The secret to finish work Mr. Ray, is decidin' how you want your project to look in the end. Every stain, tung oil, danish oil, clear coat, semi clear coat, will make it look altogether different, so keep that in mind when you're gettin' a mindset on finishes. Personally, and like I said, this is just my thinkin', Mr. Ray, so don't take it as gospel. When I'm done with a project, and have the final sandin' done, all the dust blown off it, and it's sittin' there in all it's glory, I want my projects to be "attention getters." A good share of my projects get sanded to 400 grit just for that reason. The actual surface of the wood is smooth as a baby's butt! The next question I'll bet you're goin' to ask is "how do ya get the finish to stick to it?";) Well Sir, Nearly all of my projects, large or small, even my feathers, get shot with my air sprayer, and are sittin' or layin' flat on my project table on stickers. I shoot clear lacquer over the projects, allow it to set an hour or so, then hit it again with another round. Depending on the project(s), usually two coats does the trick. The lacquer seals the wood, and where I've shot it with my air sprayer , there are no brush marks, runs, or anything else to sand out. In about three hours or so, when the lacquer has dried enough to touch without leavin' fingerprints in it, I flip the projects over, or around, whichever, and shoot that side the very same way. A lot of times, once my feathers are dry enough to handle, I'll run a small piece of copper wire thru them and hang them on hooks I have in the ceiling of the shop. Then just let them cure out over night, and the next morning, everything is ready to be shot with clear coat. I'll set everything up just like I did for the lacquer, and get the first coat of clear coat shot. Let it dry and cure out, then lightly sand the surfaces of everything with 220 grit sandpaper before the final coat of clear coat is shot. This cleans up any rough spots, ridges, or little runs, and also gives the final coat something to grip to. Then I hit it with the final coat of clear coat, let everything dry about a day and a half, wipe it all down with a clean lint free rag sprayed with just a little bit of furniture polish, and the project then sets and finishes drying and curing. I don't stain anything unless the customer requests it. That's part of the reason I don't use anything but hardwoods in my projects. I have learned over the years that all that stainin' and prep work takes time and money, and most folks aren't willing to pay the shop rates to do the work. So I went to using hardwoods, lacquer and clear coat. I haven't had any complaints in the last 20 years about it, it works, and it's faster than all the stainin'. There ya have it, Mr. Ray. Sawdust703(Brad)

Howdy Miss Irene, I'm in tall agreement with these gentlemen about givin' anybody advice about the operation of any power tool. We can explain to you HOW it works, and what its purpose is, but as far as givin' advice on how to operate it, or what to do with that tool, unless I were right there with you, Ma'am, that part is out of my league! I won't even attempt it! Now your scroll saw, that's a different story. But not other power tools. There are numerous videos on UTube available to look at on the safe operation of all sorts of different power tools, but I ain't a video sort of feller, neither. As far as the finish for your bowl is concerned, the first thing I'd ask is what's your plans for the bowl? Is it going to be used for human consumption? Or just sit on a shelf and have some sort of decoration in it? Brad

Howdy Mr. Ray, You're very welcome, my friend!:) You've done a fantastic job, Sir! I encourage you to keep tyin' into more difficult projects as you move along, Sir. That's how ya learn this hobby. And remember Sir, we are always here if you get yourself in a tight, or have questions about a project, blades, etc. And you can always call or email me anytime if I can be of help to you, as well, my friend. Don't hesitate!!;) I would also encourage you, if you haven't already, to go to Utube and look up a couple videos on blade sizes. You will be surprised at what information you can learn from just that itself. Your project looks great to me Mr. Ray. I would caution you when it comes time for finish work, though. Food for thought, Mr. Ray. Maple and Walnut have a tendency to not take finish as well as other hardwoods. I don't know what you have in mind for the final finish, but were it me, I believe I would just hit it with a couple coats of clear lacquer, then shoot it with two, maybe three coats of Watco clear coat and leave it be for three or four days to cure out. My experience with aromatic cedar has been if I sand it smooth before I even attempt to start working with it, I have much better luck with separation, and it's easier to handle as well. A lot of times, if aromatic cedar has been sitting for awhile, it kinda gets sticky, like pine does. I have even went so far as to fill a spray bottle with turpentine and sprayed it on the cedar, then wiped it down. That cleans off the sticky mess on the surface of the cedar, and then I could work with it. Best of luck to, Boss. Keep in touch! Sawdust703(Brad)

Excellent advice from everyone here, Miss Irene. With your fear of that table saw, please don't try to use it without some instruction first. They are an awesome tool in the woodshop, I'd be lost without mine, but they ain't called widowmakers for nothin', Ma'am. When I cut bowls or vases on the scroll saw, I run the rings through my drum sander to flatten them and level them out before gluing them together. Then, once the glue has cured and dried for a couple of days, I set it up on my lathe and cut around the outside with a flat chisel to shape the bowl or vase, and sand and finish it on the lathe. It makes the process much faster and easier to handle the bowl. If your shop is not equipped with a lathe, Ma'am, providing there isn't a lot shaping to do, you can also use a dremel and an 80 grit round sander to clean up the overhangs and what have ya, then use your palm sander with 220 grit for the final sanding of the outside. You can also use the Dremel to clean up the inside as well. Your final sanding, if you aren't equipped with attachments for a drill or drill press, can be done either by hand with sand paper, or with a sanding sponge. The sponge will conform to the inside shape of the bowl better, and do a good job of finish sanding for you. You don't mind me askin', Ma'am, seein' how you have maple and walnut in your bowl, what finish do you have in mind for the bowl? Best of luck to you, Ma'am. Sawdust703(Brad)

Howdy Mr. Ray, A W E S O M E work, my friend! I am very anxious to see the finished product, Sir! And all this time you been barkin' at us about you bein' a beginner! I sure hope yer britches don't catch fire for tellin' that story again! You're gonna make a fine scroll sawyer when you grow up, Mr. Ray! before ya know it, you'll be better'n JT, Rocky, Kevin, and me. Well, maybe almost. Some mighty fine scroll work ya done there, My friend! Keep up the good work!!! Brad.

Howdy Mr. Wilson, I am agreement with your theory, Sir. The option of harvesting cherry off someone's property, which would be AWESOME, I have no doubt, but I purchase my hardwoods from one of two small lumber yards here. One is in Nebraska, and the hardwood is brought in from the mill in Missouri. The other is here in Kansas, about an hour and a half drive from home. I am good friends with the manager and he has excellent quality lumber. Even pine! He carries several species of hardwoods, along with many exotics, and at a great price! Cherry is one of those species of woods I have found that takes patience, and depending on what you're cutting with it, a soft hand on the blade speed, and an even more cautious hand when it comes to feed rate. I have cut lots of cherry over the years, made some furniture, drawers, tables, signs, dreamcatchers, crosses, and feathers with it. And I have never had any trouble burning at the scroll saw, the table saw and RAS, that's a little different story. I had a couple fellers lookin' over some of my cherry, walnut, and bloodwood feathers at a craft show a few years back, and one of them kept lookin' at the cherry feathers, and finally asked "are these laser cut? How do you keep from burning the edges when you cut all that detail into the feather at that thickness? I answered his first question with "no, they are not laser cut." They are cut on a scroll saw with a #0 or #1 polar blade. Which meant nothing to him, but point being, I went on to explain to him that blade speed and size has a great deal to do with burning when it comes to cherry. The faster the blade is cutting, the more apt it is to burn the wood, and dull the blade. Once the blade is dull, serious burning will begin. If that piece of cherry is puttin' out smoke while you're runnin' a scroll saw blade agin' it, on of three things are happening. 1)Your blade is shot! 2) Your blade speed is runnin' entirely to fast for the type of wood your are cutting. #3) You are using the wrong type of blade for the business at hand. A critical point when cutting hardwoods is blade tension. I have found that, especially with cherry and walnut, blade tension needs to be high. This helps the blade to run straighter, cut smoother, and reduces heat. I also use a small amount of thompsons wax on my blades before I begin cutting cherry. It helps to keep the blade from burning, and increases the agility of the blade in tighter turns. A lot of what I cut are small & detailed, and take patience to cut. Those of you that cut fretwork can relate. I also don't use anything but polar blades when I cut cherry or walnut. I get a cleaner, smoother more finished cut, and less sawmarks to sand out. When I cut the feathers for a dreamcatcher, and they are bloodwood, cherry, or walnut, I use a #0 or #1 polar blade for the job. I have tried numerous types of blades for this. It is to tedious for a skip tooth, with that being my blade of choice. I have tried reverse blades, spiral blades, etc., and none of them give the quality of cut like the flying dutchman polar blade. I can't say as I have ever tried the packing tape method. I use blue painters tape under my patterns as I stick my patterns to the painters tape. I don't have any trouble doing things that way. My feather patterns are to thin and fragile to go stickin' them up with layers of tape, and then gettin' all the tape removed and still have a feather in one piece is not as easy as it may sound. Thank you for your time, and Mr. Wilson, I apologise if you feel like I hijacked your thread, Sir. That was not the intention. Just my point of view, and my experience, Sir. Hopefully it will help someone out in the future. Keep crankin' out the sawdust!:) Sawdut703(Brad.)

Well Mr. Travis, I ain't no designer, But I'd sure be happy to cut some ornaments to donate, Sir. Sawdust703(Brad)

Mr. Les, You're very welcome, my friend. I hope this finds You and Miss Faye doing well, Sir. and I also hope you enjoyed my post, Sir. I admit, it was a bit long, and this probably ain't the place or the time for that sort of conversation, but, it kinda goes a long with my dreamcatchers, feathers, and other creations I make, Sir. Brad.

Howdy folks, You are exactly right, Mr. Les. And shortly thereafter, there were several smaller, weaker tribes completely wiped out. The main reason for the extermination of the American Indian was nothing more than political greed itself. The white man had already set foot in the Indian Territories and was trapping, mapping, surveying, and looking over the lay of the land. They didn't anticipate the retaliation they would meet in attempting to take over what is now the United States. There were many different tribes throughout the different parts of the country. In the West their were the Arapaho, Cheyenne, The Sioux, the Brule' Sioux, the Northern Sioux, the Southern Sioux, The Black Feet, Caddo, Cree, Crow, Dakota, Hidatsu, Iowa, Kansa, Kiowa, Kiowa - Apache, Kitsai, Lakota, Mandan, Metis, Missouri, Nakota, Omaha, Osage, Otoe, Pawnee, Ponca, Sarsi, Sutai, Tonkawa, and the Wichita. In the South there were the Apache, Navajo, Pueblo, Hopi, Yuman, Zuni, Tohono O'odham, and the Mojave. In the Southeast, there were tribes such as the Acolapissa, Asis, Alinamu, Apalachee, Biloxi, Cherokee, Chesapeake, Chickasaw, Choctaw, Creek, Powhatan, Seminole, Tuscarora, just to name a few. In the Plains, there were tribes like the Comanche, Arapahoe, Blackfoot, Cheyenne, Cree, Crow, Dakota Sioux, Iowa, Lakota Sioux, Missouri, Osage, and some of the worst, the Pawnee. Some of these tribes were warlike tribes, some weren't. Every tribe had their own territory, and everyone knew the boundaries, as well as knew the consequences if they were caught outside of those boundaries. Every tribe had their own laws to abide by, their own way of life, and their own harmony amongst their tribe. When the white eyes set foot onto these territories, and discovered the vast amount of wildlife, furs to be trapped, and the discovery of gold in various parts of California and Nevada, New Mexico, and Silver in Arizona, more and more white people began to move out onto the frontier from both the east and west. Unbeknownst to the Indian, they were slowly losing control of the lands they had control of for centuries. War after war took place. The Government sent several regiments of troops in all directions to annihilate every tribe that interfered with expansion in anyway. Those were their direct orders from the President. Look it up! As time went on, forts were built, more white settlements were coming into the Indian territory all the time. Then the railroad, then the buffalo hunters, on and on. The tribes that weren't being destroyed by soldiers, were dying from starvation and whiteman diseases that they had no way to fight. Then came the uprising of Crazy horse, Sitting Bull, Geronimo, and many others. Then the Massacre at Wounded Knee. There were over 3,000 Sioux killed in that Massacre including Standing Bear, Thunderheart, Little Wolf, all great Chiefs of the Sioux tribe. After this, the treaties that had been broken, land taken away, herds of buffalo killed, then came the Battle of Little BigHorn. Every Northern tribe gathered. Tribes from the south gathered for the battle.Northeastern tribes came together with other tribes to converge into a massive "army of warriors" that Custer and his scouts had no idea was even building until they found the encampment of American Indians along the Bozeman river. When Custer begin to put his military plan in action, his calculations were to flank the encampment from four sides with troops and annihilate the entire encampment. Men, women, and children. Custer's orders to his men were to leave to NO survivors! What Custer hadn't anticipated were all the scouts the tribal leaders had in place around the outside of the encampment. Custer's troops were spotted and reported to the tribal leaders, and plans were put in place to stop the aggression at all cost. Which was easily done because Custer and his commanding officers were brought to their knees by surprise attacks from all directions by the scouts that had informed the Tribal Leaders of Custer's locations, and warriors were placed in waiting until Custer and his command walked into the warriors. Several of Custer's troops were wiped out in these surprise attacks, and the encampment was protected. This information is not written anywhere in anything to do with the Battle of the Little BigHorn. Extensive reading about Custer himself, and other American Indian battles brought this information to light for me. Later in the week, the actual Battle of The Big Horn finally took place on the hillside of what is now known as the burial grounds of the Battle of the Little Bighorn. What Whiteman's history does not tell us is facts and truth. All the studies, wonderin' around up there lookin' for bullets, arrows, bodies, measurements, all that jazz, still doesn't point back to the original point of the Battle in the first place. And nowhere in all the reading & studying I have done over the years, does it proclaim the actual cause for the Battle because our Government, to this day, is not willing to admit to the fact that their own greed was the cause of the Battle. The reasons for breaking their own treaties, the reasoning for creating starvation for all these tribes that were here long before we were. Not to sound prejudice, on account of I am Part Cherokee, and proud of it, but the fact of the matter comes back to TRUTH, and it is written in our own History. You have to do a lot of indepth reading about the Bighorn, the American Indian, and begin reading the proclamations and treaties that were put in place at that time. Your understanding of what took place will become more clear. What's more, if you continue to follow those proclamations, you will find some of them are are still on the books today in Washington. And then ya stand and scratch your head and wonder why we have such a screwed up system? Not only in History, but in politics as well, and if you go back to the era of the Battle of the Little Bighorn and understanding of what you're reading to find it. The truth of the matter is nothing more than GREED! That's all I have to say about that. My apologies for the rant, but when it comes to History, that is where my knowledge prevails. I hope you all enjoy the "rant" and got to know a little more about the "real me" a little better, and why I create the projects I do. Thank you for taking time out of your busy day to read my post. I sincerely appreciate your time. Brad.

Thank you Gentlemen. Honest History has long been forgotten in schools today. If you ask a middle school or high school student how they like their history class? Their usual response is "what history class?" What folks do not realize is, here in the real world, history does, for a fact, repeat itself. If Our own history isn't believable enough for your mind to comprehend, pull up a chair and read the Bible. Everything that took place in that Book front to back, is beginning to happen again. It's not a matter of belief, or luck, or politics. We as human beings cannot seem to find a happy medium in life and then greed sets in, then the next thing ya know, we have all out chaos. Think about it. History is the only true redemption we have to our past, and to our future. The more of it ya study, and the deeper into it you get, the more fascinating it becomes. But all that will never be taught in school again like it was when we were in school, men. There is to much other crap these schools are trying to teach that is of absolutely no value to anybody. Enough said about that. Most of my projects are based on my History knowledge, and love for the Native American Indian, and the American Cowboy. I have made everything from dreamcatchers to Native Americans on horses to buffalo heads to Native American Chief portraits to boots, tractors, combines, semis, animals, and figures. I enjoy cutting western history and Native American Pieces the most because in my part of the world, not many folks do scroll work at all. There are a few around that call themselves "wood workers" but everyone has their own idea of that. I don't claim to be any better than the next fella, but I have acquired enough experience, imo, over 25 years of self taught scrollin' and wood workin experience', I can cut a fairly straight line. I think. Two major things I have learned over the years is to be a perfectionist, and to take great pride in my work. I have always been a perfectionist, even when I was trucking. If the project don't suit me enough for sale or show, I'll do my best to fix it, and it becomes a gift for someone from us for their birthday, anniversary, etc. I'd like to think my pride shows in every project I cut. Even the finish work. I want a shine on the face of my projects that is an attention getter so folks will enjoy what they are looking at. Why put all the time and effort into it if you're not going to make an effort to draw attention to it? All my cuts are clean, precise, and as exact as possible. The design I started with is the end product. I ain't able to say much more than that, I don't reckon. I'm hopin it don't come across soundin' to conceited or "holier than thou," but that's just the way I am, folks. Thank you again for takin' time out of your day to look over my post. Look after yourselves! Brad.

Howdy folks, I sincerely appreciate all the compliments on my handy work. They mean a lot to me. I try to keep various colors of feathers cut and on hand because it seems like what few folks come in the shop "just love those feathers!" They want a string of feathers made, or some put on thongs and hung on some creation they've dreamed up for me to cut, or a dream catcher some folks ask for when a loved one passes on. I am always looking for new feather patterns. The patterns I do have are the ones that come with different patterns I have bought from Wooden Teddy Bear. I would like to find a couple Eagle feather patterns, a raven and owl feather pattern, and other traditional feather patterns. I don't have any sheets to get a picture of at the moment, justdraftn, but when I get one started, and some size to it, I will get a picture of it and send it to you. Then when I get a sheet planed out and sanded, and ready for patterns, I'll send ya a picture of that as well, if that would be ok. Meflick, good to hear from you, Ma'am. And thank you for your thoughts and prayers. I am on the mend, I reckon. Been down in the back the last three weeks, but I am startin' to heal from that, too, I reckon. I may try out my sea legs this evening and stray over to the shop for awhile. We'll have to see how things go. If you get a chance, I posted a few pictures in another post of the dream catcher I made in memory of our daughter. Skip over and have a look see at it and let me know your thoughts about it. I'd appreciate hearing what you think about it! Look after yourself! Brad.

That's a fact, Sir!

Howdy everyone! I sincerely hope this finds everyone in good health and spirits, & primed for the oncoming week end!:) Thank you again for all your comments and interest in my work. My interest in Native American culture goes back a long ways. I have studied the American Indian since I was a young feller, and have done many written reports about several tribes, their life styles, way of life, freedom, the harmony amongst the tribe as a whole. Their means of survival, how the elders made the decisions for the tribe. Not to mention the fact that several years ago, My Ma and her sister spent two years doing endless hours doing genealogical research on our family history as far back as the 1700's. On my Father's side there is a lot of cowboy history. Cattlemen, horsemen, ranchers, farmers, and of course, truck drivers. On my Ma's side, they found farmers, Cherokee Indians, some German blood lines, more farmers, steel workers and welders, and, wait for it, yep, more truck drivers. My great, great, great Grandfather was a Cherokee Indian Chief. Mom and my Aunt even located a picture of him, his wife and two sons. We have that photo in our family history records. Long story short, I have some Cherokee blood running through my veins, like it or not, I carry it with great pride. Our people endured a great amount of suffering, family loss, and severe mistreatment moving from their native lands of the Carolinas to the Reservation lands in Oklahoma territory. Treaties were broken, starvation was forced on our people, small pox infested blankets and clothing were given to the Cherokee and other Native Bands on the trail in order to kill the tribal folks. The tribal medicine men had never seen or heard of these diseases amongst their tribes, therefore they had no medicine strong enough to fight off the white man's diseases. The mortality rates were high among the numerous tribes on the trail, including women and children. By the time the bands reached the Oklahoma Territory, their numbers had fallen by nearly half, and the sickness was running rampant throughout the People. White Dr's were beginning to treat them as they could, and bury them faster. After 6 months of this, control of the situation began to come to light, organization started to come together among the People, and tribal grounds were beginning to be assigned to the different tribes. If you know anything at all about Native American History, The End Of The Trail has an important meaning in our History. The true meaning of it is the final arrival at the tribal lands in the Oklahoma Territory, and the sense of survival and freedom. The Cherokee Warrior on the Horse in the real picture is supposed to be pointed west to indicate the direction of travel they came to the tribal reservations from the east. If you see a pictorial view with the horse and warrior facing a different direction, the artist had no idea of the history he was painting, nor the true meaning of the art piece. I have an original piece hanging in my office that is over a 100 years old. I would be glad to post a picture of it if anyone is interested in havin' a look see at it. In the meantime, I have taken a couple of pictures of the dream catcher we have hangin' above our chairs that I made in memory of our middle daughter when she passed three years ago. The catcher itself is cut in cherry. The Dragonfly is maple, and glued to the catcher. Miss Bonnie was a Dragon fly nut!;) A little about the feathers. The feathers hanging right in the center, there are four in that bunch. One for each one of her children. They are cut from barn wood, poplar, cherry, oak, beetle kill pine, & walnut. The outer single feathers hanging around the bunch of four in the center represent Bonnies' grandchildren. Those feathers are cut from oak, cherry, and poplar. Mary Ann & I done the thongs and bead work ourselves. I done all the scroll saw work myself. There ya have it, I reckon. One of my catchers to look over and comment on, folks. Hopefully it's to your liking. We get a lot of compliments on it here in the house. One of the most common things folks say about it is they can't believe the feathers aren't real because they're so close in detail to a real feather. They cannot believe they are wood. What's your thoughts and opinions on the feathers? Have a look see and leave your thoughts. I am anxious to hear what ya think about it! Thank you for takin' time to have a look see. Brad.