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Have used this idea for decades; works well. and even just a quick rub with a candle stub. the use spreads it around. The wax paper can be used for painting underlayment also-- if you don't rip it nothing soalks through. I will use a scrap of it to hol;d a bop of glue when making small things and using toothpicks as glue wands.etc. Just wad up and discard when finished glueing. I use some craft type paints for projects and will use old plastic container lids for a piant blob --these also work very well for color mixing---and just throw when finished.

Hi, This link and a little digging will get you there http://www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Parts?TLSID=1592&Ref=382158 That is where I found parts when I needed them. Service was good. I think they have everything except the advice and they might even have taht. Good Luck. That is a good saw-- althought the factory light is worthless. Mkae a wooden plate that fits on the stand-- use one of the desk type lamps and by experimenting you can adapt it for your needs. I can send pictures of how I did mine. if you want

I blew one of those fuses also! I have no idea how I did it. That was about 2-1/2 years ago. I have used it a lot harder since and never blown another one. I do keep a few in the same box; that I keep my blades in. Happy New Year and A VERY MERRY CHRISTMAS to all of the sawdusters!

ANSWER TO BLADES 5" pin end-- get them anywhere. My best blade supplier that I have found since that saw was new; is ----- http://www.pozsgaide.../index.htm----- I did BUY IT NEW! Answer for Marge-- I bought it new; so I must be older than the saw also! Frank is a sawer himself and a great guy, I actually live about 2 miles from him. Found him accidentally, discovered I actually knew him as the Guy from ACE! The Ace I shop at all the time.

Broke out the old Craftsman! This saw is a 1952 accordimg to Sears many years ago. I wanted to get parts and they told me, it was too old-- a 52 model! So I made the part I needed; it has been running on home-made parts for at least 45 years. I bought it new in late 1953 after the REA finally came to the hinterllands of the lost world! WESTERN North DAKOTA The reason I brought it back out is safety! My 8 year old granddaughter has an interest. This is the safest power saw I have ever seen. I have put my fingers against the running blade many times. It runs an electromagnet against a spring steel plate, not a motor. The strokes are around 1/8 inch-- so skin easily moves that far! The pictures were takne about 1/2 hour ago. I was pleased to see it STILL WORKS! The R in the one pictture wass cut a little while ago, just before photo-time! Dose anyone have an older one that does>

Is this the Delta saw that is a clone of the DeWalt 788? My 788 is about 2-1/2 years old and I have used it to cut name plates out of hickory! (flooring scraps) The only porblem has been the blades grips have to be super tight to work in that hard of wood. (I have actually made a "grip" from a piece of hardwood-- then stripped the wingnuts out of the aluminum blade carrier.. I then actually found bolts and am using them instead of the wing-nut things. They seem to hold better and are actually easier to set than the small wing nuts were. The hold-down foot is also poorly designed. The rest of the saw seems to be a great design. I have a few decades and a large pile of sawdust for experience. If you are NOT intending to cut 9/16 (HICKORY/IRON??) it should be a great saw for you. If you are NOT cutting superhard wood like the hickory; you probably will never have the same problem anyway!

I found this link in English about it! Decades ago; I remember something of the similar idea being around. I can see it used for only certain applications. I do think it is meant as a supplementary tool, not a main one.

Hi ALL & A.K. My 788 managed to strip the threads in the lower blade thumb screw. I drilled a hole to fit the insert in a grade 5 small bolt; rethreaded the piece of aluminum and ordered a new part. This is over a year ago now and I still have not put in the new part! The 7/16 head and a wrench work much better than arthritic hands anyway. I am not totally impressed with the saw. I have spent more on saw repair on the DeWalt 788 in 3 years for repair than I did total on my previous 2 Dremels.( One was the 3-1/2 inch blade prssed model -- I had paid $25 for it used and ran it almost 20 years, not bad. The other was sold when I moved and I had used it about 5 years with "NO ISSUES AT ALL!) I have used the DeWalt harder than those though! I did not cut hickory with them. -- Admittedly I have been cutting a bunch of name plates from hickory flooring scraps and it cuts hard! So My jury is still OUT on how good/bad the DW will be long run! As I do NOT DO extremely fine work I still prefer pin-end blades! I have been thinking of making a conversion on my saw. The next time I get the same aluminum failure(They should have used a decent steel ) I am going to try it. I will probably order the new $20 piece anyway. I also had one fuse blow and still have not figured that one out! It was on light work; I have used it much harder on other stuff and had no issues!

Decades back(when I was a teacher) a 12 year old girl (yes, one of my students) showed me how to make letter paatterns. Cut a bunch of cardboard (or if you are very dainty-- just paper ) rectangles or squares. Picture in your mind the letter that you are going to do! If for example you are doing a capital A or H; just fold in 1/2 vertically. Cut half-- unfold! Here is your letter. I have used this trick for 45+ years and still Thank Margaret D everytime I do it! Practise-you will suprise yourself on how easy it is! A lot easier then my poor typing. Try it; let me know-- you can throw the bad ones away and start over! Professional photographers take about 40+ pictures for every one they actually use! WASTE SOME PAPER! You are better than you think! If you can read you can do letters like this. Just mentally SEE THEM!

I don't know how they do the light. If it does not do what you want; my trick may help. I made a wooden (hickory) piece that fits in the stand-- sticks out both side about 2 inches-- drilled with holes to fit my lamp peg.. I then cut the head off a bolt, stuck it in the bottom of an old=spring arm desk lamp and welded it in. I have about 1-1/2 " of bolt straight down. I can adjust (move) it to either side or farther back when cutting larger pieces. I did the same thing with the one for my drill press. When things get hard to see; I can actually swing both of them to eliminate shadows. If you want pictures; just PM me and I will take and email some to you.

Hello A.K. AND all, A long time does not necessarily mean good, however maens big PILE of sawdust! I know it was 1953 because I bought the saw when we first had electricity on the farm. I had used coping saws before that. My brothers would play ball AND BECAUSE I am still so great at any sprots; I would go make sawdust/ woodshavings. I was about 8 and could sharpen a draw-knife. Farm boys in western ND had to learn to do a lot of things early. When awake and not working we had to make our own enetertasinment also. You still have not told me how it works. Seriously no motor-- NOTHING turns! -- It started life as a 11" saw In the early 70's my uncle cut it apart and lenghtened oit to about an 18" for me. It is a "Craftman"-- I will dig it out/ set it up and post a picture or two if someone wants to see them.

HI ED, I am Ralph From Aloha, OR --(Beaverton) I have run scrollsaw for 55+years and learn new things all the time I will happily share ideas/patterns etc. Here is a link http://aeontoys.weebly.com/ to my website. My email address is there and advice on it and new ideas for me are really appreciated. My blade supplier is http://www.pozsgaidesigns.com/ He is good/ fair/ and does know a bunch about scrollsawing! Here is a picture of a light modification I did to get better light placement than the original by far. That is on my drillperss and I use the other one like it on the scrollsaw to both aim for some of the hard to see things!

Hi Everyone, I have been using a scrollsaw since 1953--- maybe someday I will actually learn how! I also actually still have that 1952 model year saw; and it still works! It does not have an electric motor; but it does cut very well in 1/4 inch or under material. Yet it is electric. Can you tell me how it works? I do know, as I have repaired it many times in the couple of days I have owned it. I do make many things and will share patterns/ ideas happily. I also still use a trick that was in the book of that first saw. I use candle wax on my blades and on my table. I now live in North Oregon and specialize in wooden toys. Rocking horses of several sizes, name trains & stand-up names seem to be among my favorites also. I modify my equipment to fit my needs. I also do the same to any patterns. The great majority of what I make is from my own patterns. Aeon Toys is a website that I have- here is the link. http://aeontoys.weebly.com/index.html I will happily answer any questions or help you if I can.