bubbaloo158

I forgot to mention that my wood guy does not do the actual saw-milling... He buys it kiln dried from a sawmill. Bobby

I too am lucky to have a fantastic sawmill wood supplier. The guy I get it from manufacters tongue-in-groove hardwood floors. He has only hard wood... Walnut, maple, oak and birch. All of his wood is kiln dried even before he gets it. Each board can be anywhere between 4 1/2" and 8 or 9 inches wide and most are at least 8 1/2 feet long. Thickness is anywhere between 1" to 1 /2". My jointer and planer make easy work of milling the boards down to the desired size. I've never learned what a "board foot" is and so I can't tell you what I pay for one. On my last visit I told him to give me $100 worth of oak and $100 worth of birch. I came home with a truck load. I did an approximate tally and if it were bought already milled from a big box store the price would be well over $1,000 bucks. It is more than worth the extra work and time it takes to mill it! I am truly blesses by the lumber gods! Bobby

Like Zen, I only drill 10 to 15 holes at a time into the planned pieces that I want to cut at that time. And so most of the time it really doesn't matter if I thread the "wrong" hole because that piece was meant to come out at this cutting session anyway. Doing so also assures that I won't be sitting at the saw until every last hole is cut, no matter how long it would take to do this. If a hole fills up with dust, an awl clears it out quickly. If a certain hole amongst others MUST be cut first, I might just touch it with the tip of a Sharpie. I thread my blade through the back of the the project, and not being sure of the terminology, I'm guessing that I am a bottom feeder. Works for me. Bobby

After I put up my post about my problem I went back down to the shop. Just for fun I had a look up in one of the cupboards to see if I could find the manual. I wasn't holding my breath over it because I am notorious for misplacing manuals. Who needs them right? Well lo and be hold, there it was!!! I couldn't believe my good fortune. I came to the page with some fuse info and knew that my problem was solved. I went up to the electronics store and got the new fuses, rushed back home to put them in. Success!!! Learning something new every day. Bobby

Howdy all... I was just doing some cutting on my 788. While threading a hole my foot accidently touched the pedal while the arm was up. It made a funny noise. I finished getting ready for the cut. I stepped on the pedal. Nothing. Keep in mind that I only TOUCHED the pedal - just a tap - nothing more. The first thing I checked was the pedal... I plugged in the light and it was working fine. I then noticed what looked like a reset button on or near the motor. I depressed this, held it for about 60 seconds, and still nothing. I do know that it isn't one of my house breakers because everything else I plugged into the same plug works. I am at a loss as to what happened. Surely I didn't burn the motor, did I??? I'm in panic mode here. Hoping some of the great wisdom that I get from here all the time will come through and get me up and running again. Bobby

I bought a magnafier lamp a couple of weeks ago and am now wondering how I ever did without it. I am still pretty new to scrolling and when I compare my work that I do with the magnafier to what I was doing before it, I can see that it has improved my cutting a LOT. No more am I intimidated by those tiny inside cuts. Everything looks huge under the magnafier. The light is a vast improvement over the light that came with my DW788 as well. Bobby

Larry... great idea about the magnet!!! Do you see why I love this place???!!! I just find it strange that the problem is there only with the Easy-Lift. People on another forum tell me that the blade must be slipping and that I should rough up the clamps. But I just don't understand why the clamps are ok without the Easy-Lift and not ok without it? Bobby

Hi all... While working on a project this afternoon I started noticing that the blade was beginning to feel loose on my DW788 when I would give it tension. It finally got to the point where it wouldn't tighten up at all, even at the maximum tension setting, and I mean not at all. I was baffled and really didn't know what to do. And so, acting on a whim, I disconnected the "Easy-lift" system. Lo and behold, the problem was solved although I don't know why. I've had the Easy-lift on my saw for quite a long time and never had any problems before today. I'm wondering why this would suddenly happen now? I have to say that with having the Easy-lift system removed from the saw, the blade really gets a lot tighter. I would have to adjust it to the max in order to have it tight enough to cut with the Easy-lift. Now, I can feel the resistance when I get up to around 4. 4 1/2 works fine and I really don't have to go over 5. My big thing right now is trying to remember that I'm back to using a block of wood again - which really isn't such a pain when I look at it realistically. That being said, I had to get off my seat quite a few times to pick up the block off the floor. But I do know that the block actually holds the arm higher and more solid than the Easy-lift. My gut feeling is that the block of wood will prevail from here on in. But I'm just interested in knowing if this has ever happened to anyone else who uses the Easy-lift attachment for the DW788 and how did you fix it? Bobby

No need or sense to ever look anywhere else for the best blades. Mike is the man!!! Bobby

Everything that has to do with the Beatles. Old, their later stuff and Paul McCartney's solo stuff.

Hi Travis... Hoping that my account won't be deleted when you make the move!!! Like medic 149, I have been away from scrolling for a few months and am just starting to get back into it. That being said, I have been pretty regularly on the site all through my sawing downtime, but without posting... just doing a lot of reading... and learning. Bobby

Mine too... although rarely... and I just do as Wolfmoon says. Just give the pedal a quick tap. Bobby

Spray the glue on the paper pattern. Wait for about 10 minutes before applying to the wood. Then use packing tape. Once the project is finished, use the heat gun... it practically slides off. A few rubs with a damp rag with mineral spirits and voila!!! It leaves the wood just as smooth as it was in the beginning. The whole removal time including rubbing off the glue is about 10 minutes. Bobby

Hi all... I'm a new 788 owner and am wondering where I should be looking for this nut that you speak of so that I can make the repair if need be in the future? Thanks --Bobby