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EarltheScroller

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Posts posted by EarltheScroller

  1. Just to think about: in years of creating pine needle baskets and in conjunction with many other basketeers, we have found that good ol' paraffin is just as good as bee's wax. So if you can't find the real thing, try mixing paraffin with oil and you will get just as nice of finish. And if you really want to think out of the box, heat up the paraffin in a double boiler, mix a little oil with it, smear it on your work, then put the thing in the oven at a very low temperature--below 200-- and let the mix soak into the wood until dissolved. Take it out, buff it up and you will have a masterpiece. No kidding. It really works.

  2. Yes, on many saws it is easy to over tighten them. Also, you find with scroll sawing that blades don't last long. Unlike your table saw, if you are doing a lot of intricate cutting you will need to put in new blades every few hours or more often. If I'm working a couple hours a day, I will put in a new blade every day. Once you get the hang of it, you will find that you are following the line fairly easily, then pretty soon it will be difficult. Time for a new blade. They are an expendable item so keep a lot on hand.

  3. I also have a Type 1 that I bought new approx. 15-20 years ago. It has been a great saw but it does get to shaking pretty bad above 5 or 6.  I've tried the lubing, etc and nothing helps. But on the positive side I just haven't seen a need to use it above 5. It cuts plenty fast and certainly aggressive enough so I just stopped worrying about it. It's probably been that way for the last 10 years. I'm a top feeder (I think that's right...I keep the bottom of the blade attached all the time and loosen the top arm for all those inside cuts) and I find that to get really tight tension on the blade I have to push the top arm down till it quits moving, then attach the blade. If I just attach the blade where ever the arm stops it won't get tight. Don't know if that makes sense. 

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