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EarltheScroller

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  1. EarltheScroller
    This is what I do if I have to. Most of the time I use a 1/16" in my drill press and just open it up in a tear drop shape as has been mentioned. But if I have too I will resort to my Dremel with a small collet.
  2. EarltheScroller
    I read about them and got the order form. Still haven't decided to spring for them because of the $$. But they do look like a great mod and I'll probably go ahead and get them after I stew about it for awhile. I am getting tired of using pliers on the lower knob of my Dewalt because I just can't turn it tight enough with my fingers anymore.
  3. EarltheScroller
    Just take a damp cloth and thoroughly clean the glue off the wood before it dries. You will still need to do some light sanding to smooth the wood but it shouldn't show after finishing. I will even take a screwdriver and wipe the damp cloth right up next the the joint to get all the glue off the wood. No need for special glue...any good wood glue.
  4. EarltheScroller
    Apart from saw issues one bit of advice that helped tremendously in cutting straight lines was to make sure you are sitting directly in front of the saw. If you are a little to the side it is difficult to keep you eye lining up the wood and the blade. And, yes, all blades will drift slightly so you have to learn to aim the wood slightly on an angle. Also use the biggest numbered blade you can. #1 & #3, for example take a lot of experience to cut in straight lines.
  5. EarltheScroller
    Maybe I finally found the magic button.
  6. EarltheScroller
    I'll try again.
  7. EarltheScroller
    Haven't posted pictures because I use a Chromebook and it is a hassle so trying to figure out an easy way. This is a lousy photo as I just took it at night with a flash. But it demonstrates a couple things that were in threads lately. First, I tried the polymer clay. Cut it in 1/8" oak with #3 reverse blade and did the small circles with #3 spiral. Backed it with another 1/8" piece of plywood and filled it with clay and baked it. I also make pine needle baskets and that is what you see in the rest of the piece. It will go on sale next weekend in a couple art/craft shows. Woops...no photo so will try again.
  8. EarltheScroller
    I may well be in the minority but I find the UR blades much harder to control than the regular Reverse blades, especially in thin stock. I just can't figure out where the UR is better. I don't use them anymore. I'm certainly open to correction here. You will also have better luck in thin wood (I cut it all the time) by slowing the speed way down.
  9. EarltheScroller
    Those look really nice. I don't know anything about the Porter Cable saw but first thing that comes to mind is there is not enough tension on the blade. When you insert the blade and apply the tension does the blade produce a really high ping when plucked? If it produces a low noise or "thud" type, you have to get the blade much tighter. If it is very tight, then the next thing would be bearings if it is an older saw....so the arms are simply moving back and forth. Another is forcing the work into the blade, especially when turning, instead of letting the saw cut at it's own speed. But great work!
  10. EarltheScroller
    For $200 I'd grab it. Of course you can always dicker and offer $150 and see what he has to say...
  11. EarltheScroller
    Dremel has bits that go much smaller and a device that turns the Dremel into a sort of stationary drill. I've use it but usually just do as Kevin does and make do with 1/16".
  12. EarltheScroller
    Just finished a very delicate hummingbird piece yesterday. I was spraying lacquer on it when I dropped it and it shattered into six or seven pieces! You are right...take it easy and slow down.
  13. EarltheScroller
    Nice job! I like it.
  14. EarltheScroller
    Wow, wow, wow! Very impressive and a great job of it.
  15. EarltheScroller
    Tucson, AZ
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