Wilson142
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Everything posted by Wilson142
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18 blades? That's a lot. lol So you gonna spill the beans or are you holding out for a cash offer? Too funny! Nice cut though!
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Maybe try some tape or a playing card to create a zero clearance fix. Is that 3-ply or 5-ply? If it's the dreaded underlayment stuff you have to take the bad with the good.
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were you using a zero clearance fix of some sort? I've given my self many scroll saw manicures over the years. lol
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My opinion on blades is much the same as it is on wine. The best one is the one that works best (or tastes best) for you.
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Looks like a nice setup. Nice pictures, nice description, but did you morph into Cockney towards the end? "After uing it for a whild I will be able to determine how well I like it. Te upper can always be returned to the bellows for blowing." Couldn't help myself.
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Must be something in the water. 11 is getting pretty old for a Dane. I have owned several of those wonderful animals. My favorite was a Blue Merle named "Blue" of course. My sister-in-law breeds danes. She gets her breeding stock from Europe and she has some really beautiful dogs. She offered me a great deal on a pet quality pup but I live in an age restricted community and they prefer yipping little ankle biters. I have a 110 lb golden lab rescue much to the ire of some of my neighbors. lol
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Never really thought of cat years but I found this. " At 14 cat years old, an indoor only cat would be 72 human years old, and an outdoor cat would be 120 years old. This rate of aging kicks in around the 3 year mark. Whether indoor or outdoor, a cat ages a lot the first 2 years. When a cat is nearly one year old, they are approximately 15 human years old." That makes your cat remarkable! Good looking cat.
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Welcome to the dark side. I also taught myself with spiral blades back in the late 80's. Now I'm trying to use flat blades more because so many are bad mouthing spirals and singing the praises of flat blades. I do like the cut of flat blades but I struggle with pivoting them at turns without cutting at the same time. I have to concentrate to stay on the pattern and not overshoot the line. I've decided to add a couple of wrinkles while learning. I am using magnification, although this is the 3rd time I've tried. Had a problem with distortion but have gotten used to it. I'm also top loading with the flats because who doesn't enjoy trying to set the bottom clamp by Braille? I'm really having a good time trying to retrain myself. LOL
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I have a fair amount of "laminate" flooring, think Pergo type that I will cut. It isn't real wood but looks pretty good for some things. Eats blades like crazy and I sure don't want to breath any of the dust. They are around 7" x 36".
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Some of the laminate flooring here is actually only a picture of wood adhered to some sort of plastic looking stuff. Not at all water friendly. If scratched can't be repaired only replaced.
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Weren't any nails, simply some rust stain where the nails had been. lol I guess the guy thought reclaimed meant cheaper. Takes all kinds.
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Nice cutting. Great pattern.
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The underlayment I have used is put down over 3/4" plywood and is intended to cover the gaps between sheets of flooring to create a smoother surface for ceramic tiles and sometimes vinyl flooring. I have some laminate flooring that was installed over a roll of substrate (hate laminate) personally. I have scrolled some of it though. lol (what the heck is that stuff??) Hard on blades in my experience.
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I'm impressed with the thinking out of the box with the barn board. Nice piece. I had to laugh, I was checking out reclaimed and weathered wood on Amazon and there was a review complaining that after this guy had cut out all the knots and rusty looking nail holes there wasn't enough wood for him to use for his project..
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Underlayment is typically 3 layers as opposed to 5 layers with most Baltic Birch. The veneer is thinner and the overall thickness is is less than BB. I haven't had a lifting problem using spirals, but removing the pattern has caused me problems. I find some of the problems can be avoided if the surface is sanded first before applying the pattern and using heat when removing it. That being my experience with it, I avoid using underlayment for intricate patterns. I have examples in my gallery of some projects cut with underlayment and they were all cut with spiral blades.
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Nice piece. BB is one of my favorite blues legends and Charles Dearing is truly a master of the spiral blade. Both great talents!
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I'm assuming the blade ends have been straightened. Can you feel the blade bending as you tighten the thumb screw?
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"So hummm, you' are sorta telling me it is probably my problem." LOL, no I'm telling you I didn't have that happen to me. I have know idea why it's happening to you. When I received my clamps, the set screws were turned all the way in, so I found a washer that was approximately half the thickness of the slot and turned the set in to the washer and locked it down. Just like octoolguy posted. I refrain from talking as if I'm any kind of expert and you'll not see me post many absolutes as if I were. I only offer my opinions based on my experiences. I am very much annoyed with self proclaimed "experts", I prefer to think everyone who scrolls for any length of time will develop the techniques that work best for them. l
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Received my clamps and got them installed after chasing out the threads on one of them. Slightly funky threads but got it sorted. After about 4 hrs cutting 1/4 BB with 3/0 FD New spiral blades, no hockey sticks on either end. They do seem to reduce vibration a bit and the lower clamp is a little easier to blind tighten when top feeding. I used a washer as a spacer to ensure the set screws protrude an equal amount and lubed the bearings well. Good luck.
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I feel your pain. I cut quite a bit from that 3 ply underlayment, but I try to stay away from patterns with those very fine lines. I like to sand the top surface with 220 grit before applying the pattern. I try to convince myself that sanding 1st keeps the adhesive from the contact paper from sinking too deep and pulling the veneer up on removal. I am often amazed when I look at the back side at how destroyed looking it is. The top layer on BB is much thicker. I noticed that Scoller Online advertises Fininsh plywood. Haven't a clue about that stuff.
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I would consider 2" x 48" x 96" Rigid styrofoam insulation. Would require minimal framing easily removable and can be repurposed for what it is intended for. At $21 or so per sheet is cost effective, light, cuts easily and may reflect light better than some options.
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I'm optimistic. I wonder if I should have bought the set with the tensioning lever, although the set without should be a tiny bit lighter. Mike
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My bearings seem a bit sloppy in the chuck heads, so I ordered a set. Actually they were $64.00 except I fat fingered the shipping selection and hit the UPS 3 day for an additional $11. oops! We'll see what happens. I hope they work, I have a gross of 2/0 Pegas and 3/0 FD. I also tried some #0 and #1 blades and may buy a gross of them also.
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Good info. I was contemplating the Pegas clamps for my Dewalt but maybe I'll wait. Pegas 2/0 and 3/0 are my go to blades also. I've been top loading lately and find I hockey stick my lower end more than when I bottom load.
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I'm getting ready to add a gallery and want to know if I can edit my pattern designer info etc. after uploading or do I need to do it 1st? I have the photos but need to research the pattern makers to give credit where credit is due.
