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I am mostly a turner, but I scroll small items, mostly Christmas ornaments and carving blanks a few times a year. My used $10 yard sale pinned blade Craftsman until it gave up the ghost last year. but it gave great service for my use and I even cut out some large whales out of 2x8 lumber that are 30 inches long. I have another yard sale scroll saw, a Skill that takes pinned or pinless. Easy to put pinned blades on, .Incredibly ridiculous to get my fumble fingers in there to attach the bottom of the blade. And they break so easy. I also have an old RBI that I finally tried using. it only takes pinless and I can't get a blade to last longer then about 15 seconds. I don't think it is from too much pressure of the stock against the blade, but so difficult to get the pinless blades into the holders straight, so they end up being installed with a slight curve before I am even turning the saw on. I can use a pinned blade for hours with out breaking. What am I doing wrong?

i am on supplemental o2 for six months now.. But I ran a line to supply filtered air from outsie the shop before I needed the O2. The air was supplied by an old c-pap machine to my respirator. I ran a line across the ceiling to the center of the shop ceiling and put a retractible coil 02 hose to that fitting, and 10 feet reaches to the walls. but noy quite to the floors along the edges. I have an oxygen fitting on my shop respirator (The kind with the two cartridges.) and the input is connected to the back strap of the respirator. It is not ideal, but works. I had been carrying the saw out onto the porch in nice weather and wearing an N95 while keeping the breeze to my side to blow the dust sway. I have also since, hooked up a dust collector and an air filtration system as well. Might be a little redundant, but keeps most of the dust off my clothes. .

Around here, there is a differentiation between a "vendor show" and a "makers' market" Vendor's shows may be open to makers, but not vice versa. Makers markets are strictly for items made by the seller. Farmer's markets and flea markets around here have become just extensions of Chinese junk stores. An interesting alternative outlet has popped up in an old warehouse near here. The maker rents a set of shelves and keeps it stocked. There are dozens of other makers who have also rented shelves and do the same. The owner of the shop provides security and a cashier. the computerized cashier system prints daily, weekly and monthly accountings for the maker's and funds are paid out accordingly. I was impressed with the variety and quality of the items for sale. There were a few scrolled items, turned items, carvings, hand made soaps, pottery, sculptures, metal work,etc. The place is open TFSS and holiday Mondays and it is a couple blocks off a major US highway, in the center of a cluster of large antique centers. The shop had a pretty good crowd.

And I still miss my laser printer

I like that one so very much. Thanks

I think I got fouled up with that lower retaining spring. mine is steel, not plastic as shown on the parts diagram and it takes quite a bit of effort to push the thing in. Like about 15 pounds of pressure. I got three small items cut and broke the blade. I did find a used Skil scroll saw for $10 that takes pinned blades. I mounted a blade in that and cut the rest of my pieces with out a problem. The cut was not as nice as the Hawk, but it was far easier to mount a blade. I will keep trying the hawk. I think maybe the pinless blades I have are just too fine for what I do.

the full size version: unpainted (the first I made) and a full size vintage bobber that I turned.

When I cut the small dowels to uniform length, I am making little antique fishing line ornaments I use bamboo BBQ skewers for the cross pieces, braided cotton string for the line and I turn the little bobbers. Basically I turn a oblong bead and glue a dowel through it. I have a temporary foot switch hooked up to a corded variable speed drill to chuck up and paint the bobbers. the fishing line frames are first given a coat of wipe on poly and then dipped in paint. The 4 inch pieces of 7/16 dowel are to make full size versions of the same. For those, I use 1/4 dowels as the cross pieces.

the 214 was not even mentioned in the video posted above, which I believe was from 1992. From second hand information, I found on line, it seems the 214 was made in the 1980's and discontinued about 1989. I got it for $30.00 and had to replace the cord. I don't need anything fancy. The sawing I do is very simplistic and never has had inside holes to be cut out. mostly just silhouette shapes from thin bass wood or spruce. One thing I use a scroll saw for is to cut precision lengths of small dowels. I clamp a board to the table as a makeshift fence and then cut 1/4 inch dowels into 2.25 inch lengths. or 4 inch lengths of 7/16 inch dowels. A scroll saw doesn't splinter the dowels and they come out very uniform in length. I am building several (9) music boxes as holiday gifts and only need to cut a few simple component parts. The cases themselves are turned from solid pieces of wood, as are the figures on top the cases. (Last year I made one with a Christmas tree, a wheel of cheese under the tree and two mice snuggling together, it plays "Have Yourself a Merry Little Christmas". The sound board was a round cut from very thin 2mm plywood and the mouse ears were tiny little dowels cut and sanded at an angle and glued into the head to look like upright ears.)

I don't cut any fancy fret work. Mostly just cutting outside edges of pieces. Plus I never used up the six dozen blades that came with the old Craftsman. Got along fine with a pinned blade saw for 8 yrs. I'll give this a try. I have two packs of assorted pin less blades to try.

Nother half hour of fiddling with it and another ruined saw blade, and finally got one on and was able to cut my intended project. smoother and nicer cut, less vibration than my old now dead craftsman, but geesh what a battle to get a blade on. I'll give it a chance, but I might want to see if I can convert it to pinned blades, just for ease of use.

I just spent 45 minutes and three blades trying to get one into my "new to me" saw. This system was invented by a cruel person. The manual says to mount the blade in the lower blade holder and then put it in the notch of the lower arm and pull the blade up through the slot in the arm. How is that possible without bending the blade? I tried putting the blade through the slot first but then can't put the blade holder in the lower arm notch. There is not enough clearance between the lower arm and the blade holder clip to slip it in the front of the lower arm. There has got to be something simple the manual is keeping a secret Is there a way to just use pinned blades? I wanted to do a 5 minute job and now have over an hour, no work done and two badly bent blades. Thanks .

Don't get me wrong, I know it is crap compared to new ones. It is like saying the final goodbye to a dog. A $20 yard saw purchase that came with about 300 blades. It was my go to when the band saw is just too big. When I broke or bent a saw blade, the pinned blades were so darn easy to change. I've cut out a few hundred whales and sharks for decorations. I cut hundreds of small dowels to length by adding a make shift fence. It is now bouncing all around the table, from vibration. Sometimes when I turn it on, nothing happens until I tap the top of the blade holder. . Last week I cut out a half dozen whales out of water buffalo horn for a jewelry project I have in mind. I have an RBI over in the corner. I have to get the newer blade holders for it. The old blade holders are a PIA. I also have another yard sale scroll saw, a Skill brand. It runs nice, but again, the pinless blade holders are a PIA. I almost wish there was a way to use the pinned blades. If there is, I haven't figured it out. For my purposes, they make more sense. Maybe I just didn't look it over well enough. So after 10 years the old girl has now been in intensive care for a bit. This morning, even tapping on the top wouldn't get it going. I carried her out to put her in the trash and couldn't do it. There she sits on the porch step next to the trash can.

thanks. I am going to try the full size router table with a 1/8 round over. I already have 30 cut out. I'll sand them smooth first where I had some issues with the scroll saw. then round over and some light final sanding. Rub them down with 2 coats of wipe on poly and then paint and stripe. I may be sharing a booth with another crafter at a Beach Resort Christmas market in late November. Need to build up some inventory.

Last year I made a few small surf board ornaments. very simple flat surf boards out of lath. I sanded the edges round and painted them up. Sanding was a long process. I use a router table to round over edges on big stuff. Is there a little router table like for a dremel? My ornaments are only 3.5 inches long. A full size router would likely suck in the wood and take some finger tips when working something that small.

The older I get the more I dislike people and the more I like dogs. I have known 20 or more dogs in my life. A few years back I realized each has it's own personality and each has a different way of communicating. If the water bowl is empty, the smallest dog grabs it and brings it to me where ever I am. They know the difference between front door and back door. They know which is the truck and which is the car. We had three small dogs and ended up taking in 3 from a deceased relative. So for a few years we had six bowls for food lined up. When the oldest dog passed away 2 years ago, the others would not touch his bowl. Now the remaining two from the relative are getting to be seniors. The oldest just turned 19, he has the best personality of any dog I have ever been around. He comes to me and turns tight little circles when he needs to go out. The German Shepherd watches out for him. like a big brother watching out for a little brother. The Shepherd knows by which set of keys I pick up in the morning whether he will be spending the day with me or whether I will be going to the office. If I pick up the truck keys he runs to the door and then the truck. In many ways they are smarter than some of the humans I have to deal with.

Old red oak barn wood, base and cat tail turned, the rest cut on the scroll saw, some edges rounded with a router, burned with a propane torch and scrubbed with a wire brush, then assembled.

An update a long time coming. I tried cutting shell several different ways, and my best luck was with a dremel and diamond bit, but still not great. I have been able to shape shell with a sanding disc. that hooks to the flex shaft on my old scroll saw. This is a refrigerator magnet made from yellow pine, turned on the lathe, burned with a propane torch and then scrubbed with a wire brush, and bits of broken sea sell collected at the beach. The shell was shaped with the sanding disc. I have since made some full size fish as wall decorations.

30 years later, and if I visit the kids, the ex rolls down the street to see if my current wife is along. She still stirs up crap whenever she can. When my parent's 70th anniversary came round, the ex intercepted the invitation to my son and showed up. in 2019, Current wife and I rented a large beach house and invited all the kids (hers, mine and ours), spouses and grandkids. She had the nerve to try to come along with my son's family. I have tried so hard to be civil. The manure will continue until death of one of us. I got along with my current wife's ex. Not as friends, we had little in common, but we could talk in a friendly manner and agree about things for my stepson. When he was dying of cancer, I drove my stepson, 100 miles twice a week so he could spend time with his father. two days before he died he thanked me and added that he was grateful that a man would still be watching out for his son after he is gone.

30 years ago, I was in a hardware store with my ex wife and 5 yr old son who was being a real brat at the time. The ex was not helping and refused to keep the boy from grabbing things. I was in line at the cash register and the clerk was ringing up my order. I was trying to pay attention to the clerk, while my son kept grabbing stuff and putting it up hoping I would pay for the items hew wanted. I scolded him, and pulled him behind me as I paid the cashier. Suddenly, I felt a horrible pain in my rear. The brat stabbed me with an ice pick. I was so shocked, I turned and slapped him so hard he was knocked down. I pulled the ice pick out and picked him up by the belt grabbed my bag and took him outside where he got another few wacks with my hand on his bottom. The ex stood there screaming at me for spanking the kid. My stupid ex wife wanted me to sue the hardware store for having the ice pick so low, he could grab it. It is a hardware store. I would expect a toy store to be different. Ornaments are not for little kids. They are to look at. I would keep them up high, limit handling and sales to only adults. perhaps even a warning like ages 10 and up. Keep out of reach of small children or similar. I sell dibbles and fids. Both of which have pointed ends. I do dull the ends slightly, but not enough to affect use.

I make slightly larger wheels, mostly because I can't get the sizes I need. For the smaller stuff, I have a 4 box of wooden supplies from a factory that mostly made furniture but sometimes made lamps and toys. I got a cases of 1.25 inch ash dowels that I use for various things. If I need wheels that size, I just cut a few slices off a dowel and drill them on the lathe. Shop clean up takes much longer than the 10 minutes to make 2 dozen wheels, When I make a component part for something, I try to make as many as I will need for the year and keep them in storage trays of parts for those items.

when my kids were very young, I would cut simple animal shapes and ornament shapes out of 2x 4's on my band saw and then re saw the shapes into three or 4 separate pieces. at that point I drilled holes for ornament hooks and turned the cut outs over to the kids to paint with their water colors. It was something we did every year. An ornament for each aunt, uncle, grandparent, teacher, etc and some for "our" rec room tree. My ex wouldn't allow anything on the family Christmas tree except her fancy European hand blown glass ornaments, so I bought a cheap artificial tree that we put up in the rec room for their ornaments. I still make a few dozen ornaments every year, give most away and put the rest on the family tree. Not even close to the fancy stuff I see here, but designed and made by me.

I use alot of their sand paper. I have no problems with the wet dry paper, but the red sanding paper, when it gets warm, leaves a red color on the wood.

I have turned both red elm and American elm. Both are about medium on the scale from hard to soft, but the red elm is softer. I got some red elm leveling slabs from a giant tree that stood at President Buchanan's house. The first saw mill that agreed to cut it for free for use by the parks dept, discovered the trunk was too large for their largest mill. It was just under 60 inches in diameter.

Those are very VERY nice. Your layering is quite striking. There is a German Art form of multi layered window decorations that use layering with some spaces between the layers for lights to create light and shadows. They are called Schwibbogen in German. Here in the US they are simply called Candle Arches. Some are extremely ornate. Others rather plain. https://www.erzgebirgepalace.com/Candle-Arches/All-Candle-Arches:::108_109.html