Rolf

Erv made a good point ,I have always felt that the aggressive front back blade motion on some saws greatly impacts the spiral control when cutting sideways.

Last off topic comment. Any changes to the three clocks that I built in that book are posted on Scrollsawer.com.

I have a HUGE plywood etc distributor about 30 minutes away. I just bought 3 sheets of Thin FIN (manufactured in Finland 1.5mm (~1/16) ) for $44 a sheet 50 x 50 inches. I use this for all of my ornaments. The 3mm (1/8) cost me $15 for a 5ft x 5ft sheet. When I build something that requires 1/4 or greater it is usually smaller quantities so I order those from Sloans. Don I Love the Nativity! I will have to make that for my Christmas inventory. I have built three clocks all of them are in the book that you have posted. Which edition do you have? There were some changes and adjustments after the first printing. Seeing a wooden clock run for the first time is very satisfying moment.! Enjoy and please post pictures of your progress.

I haven't had much time to play with my new current meter, but I did a quick test yesterday. I plugged my Jet Vortex Dust Collector 1.5HP w/Canister Filter DC-1100VX-CK into the splitter. Clamped on the meter. I have 4 inch PVC ducts longest run about 40 feet with multiple elbows. Some quick numbers. All intakes closed 5.2A, the closest open 8.2A, 32ft mark open 7A, two 4" gates open 8.8A my end of the run is a 2" opening at a router table @~ 50 feet 6.1A So with these results it proves to me what Sycamore was saying is correct! The more air that is available to move raises the current. Reduced air flow lowers the current. I will play with my Festool and Shop vac when I get a chance.

Sycamore, Thank you for the testing that you have done. Your use of a clamp on current meter and the line splitter intrigued me. So having always wanted a clamp on current meter you gave me the nudge I needed to buy one, and yes I also got the splitter. They will be a great trouble shooting toll for my shop.

Sycamore, Based on your images and the way you measured the current I am convinced that your data is correct. I wonder if the results would be the same if the out flow was restricted i.e. clogged filters. I really enjoy these technical discussions. Thanks I look forward to what results you get with a shop vac.

So you are saying that a free running motor with no restrictions draws more current than one under load. That is a tough nut for me to swallow. I may have to put an amp meter on my circuit.

Interesting chart, I would think that the current would go up as the motor strains to maintain it's designed flow rate. This could turn into another entirely different discussion. My thinking is if you restrict the flow on your shop vac you can here it working harder to to maintain its suction. If the motor slows down you don't get the same velocity or flow.

If you are using a shop vac you may need to put in a suction bleeder so that it doesn't overheat. Any of you using a shop vac have any input on that? Ray, Yes the swivel is an ordinary PVC union. I put a bit of silicon grease on the o-ring and then snugged it up just enough so it wings in and out easily. I put in the set screw to prevent the ring from loosening. It doesn't take much, just finger tight on the screw. Maybe for Christmas this year I will ask for a camera to make some short videos, any recommendations.?

Without getting too complicated, the vacuum will take the path of least resistance. The simplest thing would be to match the top and bottom with the same size orifice, restricting the larger opening. I put dust collection on my Hawk and I am using a very quiet Festool MIDI vac that cycles on and off with my saw. I did not like the idea of my large dust collection system cycling and or running all the time that I am cutting. Too much noise. Shop vacs are completely unacceptable as my shop is directly under our great room where my wife spends most of her time. I have posted my system images several times, so I am sorry for the repeat. I used Mag switches to hold it on my saw, easy to remove and no holes to drill. also it is not glued together for easy disassembly if I get something stuck in it. I also put in a inline trap to ketch those little pieces that I need when the get sucked up. I also added a swivel joint, since I swing the upper tube out of the way frequently when feeding the blade. The screw keeps the joint from loosening. My blower hose is no longer used! Note: the sawdust on the saw is from my chop saw in the back ground, Not the scroll saw. I have since moved the chop saw to a different location.

Congratulations! What is the serial number and age of the saw? The only good pizza is in NY! And that is how the fight started.

As was said blades are cheap. Just do it and let us know.

Are you sure your square is accurate. I took one of mine to work years ago and checked it on a surface plate with against the machinist squares in our shop. and it was off. An easy way to check, out it on a board and with a very sharp pencil flip the square. and draw the line again. The lines should be perfectly on top of each other

Wood storage is the biggest problem I have in my shop. Doing Intarsia is the main culprit, as every little piece of it can be used. So in answer to your question yes I keep a supply on hand. I also do lots of projects for SSWWC and need to have wood available for a quick turn around.

Eugene This is good advice for any scroll saw and blade.

The video of the sander left me a bit un-impressed. with the dust collection. The dust catcher seems to be a real pain. As we all know sanding dust is one of the worst because it is so fine. Just a thought on the adversity of saving money. I always bought the best tool that I could afford. In my single youth I bought whatever I wanted as I was only responsible to myself. Now that I am retired I find that my wood working hobby is fully self supportive+. So I am slowly replacing all of the "affordable tools" in my shop. I try to take my projects to the max of my skill sets with a minimum of fuss and mess. I used a $5 ryoby RO yard sale for many years until my wife gave me a Festool for Christmas.( Yes their prices are insane) If you have never used one and get the chance DON'T touch it! With it connected to their vacuum there is no dust. and no vibration. I buy all of my sanding supplies from Klingspore. I don't have much locally other than HD or Lowes and I am not thrilled with their selection. So online for my supplies. That said, I don't ever want to question myself again on my tool choices, so I do my homework, gather my resources until I can get what I want. I have fair number of HF tools, tools that get occasional use like buffing out the boat, pneumatic angle grinders etc. They have treated me well.

Is the hole pattern in the sandpaper standard? How easy is it to connect a vacuum to it.

The advantage of that style of saw is you have an absolutely vertical stroke. The down side is that the blade tension is controlled by a spring in the head. so you get a variable blade tension through the stroke. Not sure how much of an impact that has, it would be nice to get some feedback on that from anyone that has one of these.

No matter how you build a stand, you still have to have the capability to compensate for a wonky floor. I agree with yo if the tool never gets moved rigid and tweaked to the floor is best. But if you move your tools it would be a royal pain to have to adjust the feet every time. Like Kevin said a simple little kick does it. The Hawk stand is really very rigid.

I have been a huge supporter of Hawk since I purchased my G4 26 back in 2005. Don't get me wrong I would not give up my Hawk. I think at this point if I were to buy a brand new saw I would buy the Pegas over all of the other brands using this arm design for the following reasons. 1. I like the tilting Arm, great for doing inlays. 2. Pegas has the best clamps on this type of saw. I have always disliked the clamps on the Dewalts, and all of the EX's. 3. You need no additional gimmicks to hold the upper arm up for top feeding. I am not discounting the Hawks they are still a great saw, but I am not sure what the owners focus is. It takes too long to get one,and they seem to be under staffed.

Rockytime, I have the wheel set that was sold by Hawk. There are only two at the back with a handle mounted to the front of the saw. to move it you lift the front of the saw and the wheels touch the floor. when you set it back down it sits on the rubber based feet. My floor is not very level so whenever I move the saw I give a gentle kick to what ever leg I need to for the saw to sit solidly on the floor. I clip a trash bag to the handle for my cutoffs. I incorporated that design into a roll around cabinet I built for my Jet spindle sander. You can see the white cabinet with the caster in the last photo. You do not want the legs fixed solidly to each other as that will eliminate the adjust-ability to shift them especially as you move your saw all the time. Notice that I have a diamond plate pattern on my floor covering. It works great!

NOW that is a cool project!

Where do you get the billiard balls.? Also the bases you made really do a lot to make them pop.

Jt I really like the billiard ball clocks.

Spendy? Forstner bits are a must have item in a wood working shop JMO. What size bit are you talking about? A 3" carbide bit is $50 on Amazon, a MLCS brand brand $21.(I have been pleased with their products) Any bigger than that I would use alternative methods, i.e. scroll saw, or router if I don't want to go all the way through.