Rolf

It would be worth visiting small local machine shops. To see if they could duplicate the part for you. They may ask for a drawing.

I don't like to see the back of the clock movements on my projects so for most of my inserts I use forstner bits and don't go all the way through, depending on wood thickness. For very large movements I use the scroll saw.

I just looked up the current price on the sander my wife bought me a while back. I could buy 13 of the HF sanders for that price. But I love it.

A good RO sander is a must for the shop. I connect mine to the vac and there is no dust getting in the air. I don't have the HF one but you can't beat the price. How is the vibration?

I did n ot buy into this tape vs no tape thing either, until I did this cherry clock hand where I ran out of tape part way. I did nothing else to this image.

The bearings if the failed would be standard easily available parts, as are the bladders. The bladders will in time start to leak, but again they are available on line. Ray Jump on that Sandrite, find a spot for it. I built this one from mostly free parts. But I had to buy the drums 6 x 9 and 2 x 9, I had the motor, the AC guys at work had the bearings and pulleys laying around. The shaft and stop collars were from MCmaster Carr and I had one of the machinists at work thread the ends, one side is a left hand thread the other normal my metal lathe is not big enough to do a 1" shaft.. So it is not a trivial project to build your own. I did buy a set of pneumatic drums that I ran on my wood lathe, nut I prefer dedicated tools so that they are ready to go when I need them.

That is a great find! I built my own because I could not find one. The pneumatic drums alone are worth almost $400. What brand is it? Sand-right?

I made this sign for out Curch pre-school in February of 2015. I routed out the wood around the letters,. I sealed it with spar varnish. It is still hanging outside and the only change is that the pine that I have used has darkened a bit.

Thanks Sawdust1 (aka Bob) for a nice review. We all cut different stuff, Most of my work has a lot of fine detail that I need to sneak up on so it doesn't end up looking like crap. So based on that I want a saw that has as vertical a stroke as possible. Precision is much more important to me than speed. For you speed demons it would be interesting to have a variety of saws side by side with the same blade and get a real idea of the cut time difference between them. Without doing that what you all think is fast may be very different than what I think is fast. Kevin you were typing at the same time, so your thoughts about the clamp movement are an interesting point. It is a major design difference to have a saw like my Hawk G4 26 with its long flexing arms and the short rigid EX style. I really need to spend some time on one of the Pegas saws. I wish someone in our club would buy one.

The Wood turners use inlace http://www.packardwoodworks.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=tools

Interesting discussion. I have never heard that expression, I did look it up, but it still does not ring a bell. Maybe because I am only 71

That will look fine after a few beers.

I found the pattern in "Miniature Wooden Clocks for the scroll saw" Pg 73 It is a Fox chapel book ISBN 1-56523-275-5 https://foxchapelpublishing.com/miniature-wooden-clocks-for-the-scroll-saw.html

For picture frames it is not only a precise angle you also need precisely matching lengths of the opposite sides.

If I ever reach a point in my life where I have to compromise the quality of the tools that I buy It will be time to pack it in. How much space are you saving going that small? Do you have another saw to do larger boards? That said, I agree about precision , I bought the Makita LS1016 dual slide compound cut saw when it first was release. It did not need as much space behind it, perfect for my shop. I was never 100% satisfied with it's miter accuracy, and yes I have spent a great deal of time tweaking it. It will do a 12" cross cut at 90 deg. I need this capacity as many of the boards I re-saw are at least that wide. But when it comes to precise miters I am not totally satisfied. I picked up one of these at a yard sale $20. It is a very scary tool but amazing precision for tweaking joints.

Kevin you have more willpower than I do. there is no way you could keep me away from two new machines. Regarding dust, it is very easy to add a pickup brush that connects to a vacuum for the CNC. Dust is a problem for all of us my biggest concern has always been fire and of course my lungs. That is why I invested in a centralized dust collection system. Especially when I started getting serious about Intarsia as that is almost all dust from the sanding. My desktop computer upstairs gets loaded with a lot more household dust than the laptop I have in my workshop. With the laser you need to vent the fumes outdoors. The industrial laser I used at work to cut silicon generated a lot of ozone that our safety folks said needed to be vented.

Good for you Kevin, I also look forward to your progress. I hope more people get over this animosity towards new tools and technology. CNC will not replace the scroll saw it will enhance what we do with it. Especially for you Kevin making signs etc, will certainly be a plus for your business. Melanie I looked at that other thread and saw some of what you have done with your machine. Obviously you have the enhanced software and are doing true 3D work. Kevin learning the software will suck up some time. You bought a great machine and the dedicated water cooled spindle was a great add on as I believe that the motor speed and on/off is controlled by the software.

I have mine mounted on the top of my Hawk absolutely no vibration. Teachlearn, If you worked in an electronics environment you may appreciate this I managed and worked in a semiconductor processing lab for 35 years along with a bunch of other hats. I did a lot of wire boding Manual and automated. Many hours looking through microscopes and every other form of magnification. Each of the squares is 63 mm x 63 mm (2.48in) The assembly took 9 years from concept to completion~1.5 miles of bonding wire .001 inch in diameter the longest being less than 1/4 inch. So magnification was my world. For the curious this was a detector was used in a High energy physics experiment called STAR It was nice having high power microscopes, especially Monday mornings when I removed my weekend splinters.

Long ago I used a head band magnifier, it killed my neck. I went to a ring lamp magnifier. Originally a salvaged fluorescent tube one but I did not like the light and was always worried that he arm on my Hawk would break the tube when a blade broke. I now have an Led magnifier, not absolutely sure which Diopter. I can wear my glasses and sit comfortably, no more crick in my neck. This may answere some questions Diopter Chart for picking a ring lamp magnifier. Diopter Power Magnification Focal length Viewing area 3 1.75X 75% 13” 5” circle 5 2.25X 125% 8” 5” circle Focal length is the distance from the bottom of the lens to your work.

Depending on the project, the actual saw run time is only a small portion of the total project time. Most of my time is wood prep, assembly and finishing. And in some situations pattern correction.

I had trouble reading the hour meter that I have on my saw on my saw. II have not had that meter on there since the beginning so in reality it is only a partial time. It only has 438 hours on it and I don't remember when I put the meter on it. So I think my initial 4k plus was wrong since I don't scroll all year long. Kevin I am sure you have far surpassed me on the hours. Just for fun I will try to figure out when I put the meter on it.

Sounds like a nice solution. The tiny drills I use for my fretwork like to spin at high speed I don't like running my drill press that fast and constantly changing the belt positions. So when I realized I was in this hobby for the long run I bought a small dedicated drill press from Micromark. The price for these have gone up significantly from when I bought mine. If I was in the market for a new drill press I would probably go nuts and buy this one. https://www.woodcraft.com/products/dvr-voyager-18-drill-press I love the technology and since I have a Nova DVR lathe am impressed with the how smooth and powerful the direct drive system is. Lucky for me my drill press is fine.

Nice neat shop!

If the vacuum is collapsing the bucket would it be better to introduce a leak in the system so as not to strain or overheat the vac when running for an extended period of time. ? There are some great ideas in this thread! especially for those of us that are space limited.

So How is the New Hawk Cutting?