Rolf

Rockytime. The blade chart is in PDF format. In case you did not know that, If you are viewing it on a PC you can enlarge the viewing area by holding down the control key (ctrl) and then pressing the + key.

Here is another chart that includes the other brands. Spirals are not as easy to use as you may think. How they perform is also affected by the saw they are on. Like Scrollsaw703 said, don't drive yourself nuts with blade selection this early in your scrolling hobby. Experience and practice will help that selection process as you go along. We all end up with some favorites that we are comfortable with. For me I use an Olson 2 or 2/0 reverse (28 TPI) teeth per inch for detailed stuff up to 1/2 inch thick. A Olson mach 3 13 TPI for most of my 3/4 stuff. Occasionally I will go bigger depending on the type of wood. I have been trying the Pegas Modified geometry blades. They are good blades and cut a bit faster. The Teeth per inch number determines how aggressive they cut. SS_BLADE_CHART_2-22-2013.pdf

Congratulations on your new saw. The Hegner will give you many years of joy. It will take a bit of getting used to as does any new saw. We look forward to some pictures of the saw and your work.

Bill is spot on with his explanation. I will repeat a bit here. Here is a copy of the most comprehensive blade chart that I have come across. Unfortunately the "universal blade numbers" such as 2/0 r or just a simple blade number #3 is not the same for all manufacturers. You really need to look at the number of teeth per inch (TPI) when making a comparison. An example a 2/0 R pegas blade with 13 TPI or a 2/0 R blade with 28 TPI will cut very differently in speed and control ability. SS_BLADE_CHART_2-22-2013.pdf

I actually used a #1R Pegas modified geometry(13.7 TPI) ) for cutting the parts on my last intarsia piece. 3/4 Poplar, walnut, cherry. maple, wenge. It is a thin blade and performed extremely well. I normally use the Olson Mach 3 for this. The Pegas is .004" thinner, insignificant but every bit helps when eliminating gaps. Especially when doing segmentation pieces. I did try the 2/0 R (15 TPI) for cutting my very detailed ornament stacks. They were a bit too aggressive and I went back to my old standby Olson 2/0 R (28 TPI) much slower but much easier to control. I will play more in the off season. It all comes down to what you are comfortable with.

I think someone else had an issue with a batch of Pegas that had a notch where they were breaking. Probably from the same run. The notch was where they were supposed to be cut to length. I agree with you Kevin I have used mostly Olson for the last 13 years and occasionally get a batch that breaks faster than normal. That is one of the many reasons I like my Hawk I pre-load a bunch of clamps with the current blade in use so that I have minimal interruption when in production mode.

Like Scott and Melanie said no reverse teeth.

Fisch 2481 The new saw sure is sweet looking and will still look like that 20 years from now. Although it may have some dust on it by then. The Hegner's I have used only had two issues that I did not like. One was the dust blower blew the dust right up your snoot. That has finally been addressed. The other is that it does not top feed, and with the current clamps to make it a top feeder would require some changes.

Good luck with your new saw! I would say that the majority of our club members are using Hegner saws. One member for probably greater than 60 years. They are tough bullet proof saws, but like any tool will require routine maintenance. When I upgraded from my Delta SS350 I bought the Hawk G4 (in 2005) after trying both a Hegner and a Hawk at one of our club shows. It was a very difficult decision as they are both exceptional saws. The deciding factor for me was that the G4 was new to the market and had top feed capability. The Hegner is and has been very well supported for a very long time. I look forward to seeing some pictures of it with sawdust.

A bit off topic, but I drag my 100 lb+ Hawk out of my basement once a year for our clubs woodworking show. I have decided this year that it is getting too heavy and difficult for me to do that, besides the fact of the risk of damaging my saw. I have decided to buy another smaller saw. I am looking at the King 16" , it would give me a different capability with the tilting head not table. Anyone have one? If so what do you think? And no I will never give up my Hawk.

This a link to main site. On the bottom right side of the page is the link to the electronics. It may seem pricey but you get the coil, electronics and the battery pack. treat the coil with care, the wires are thin. Also polarity of the power source is critical. Someone had bought two circuits and could get neither of of the two clocks he built to run. I had him send me the electronics and it seems he had a "friend" rewire the battery pack connection and he reversed the polarity. Both now run perfectly. After I am done with my fair season I am going to look at the TRI and Daisy design, I have had feedback saying that the TRI pin spacing is too small.? https://carveshop.com/

Melanie Thanks for all of your help!! Phil (Hineps) this is the link to where I sourced the electronics. Dick Bipes recommends using d cells so I designed a new base to accommodate the bigger batteries.

The good thing is that people are using the library.!

Just a heads up the exploded view on page 61 of the latest printing of the book. The parts labeling is shifted to the right by about 1/8. I have made Fox Chapel aware of this. Also any changes or correction for the clocks that I was involved with are posted on Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts forum. https://forum.scrollsawer.com/forum/magazine-and-members/publisher-feedback Or feel free to contact me with any questions. For the record I did not use a CNC or Laser for any of the clocks. They were all cut on my scroll saw. Rabid Alien the Vietnam book looks to be a very interesting read.

Thanks, I love making them but ticking drives me nuts, so I don't have any of them running.

I have built three clocks on request by the SSWWC staff. They were all very enjoyable to build. Two were designed by Brian Law the third by Alfred Mifsue. The first was a pendulum and weights driven clock, I still sell a metal hardware kit for that one. The second was a spring driven clock called the flying pendulum clock. It is absolutely fascinating to watch and a bit more challenging to build. The third one is electro-mechanical. It has a magnet and electronics to drive the pendulum. All three are in this book.https://www.walmart.com/ip/Making-Wooden-Gear-Clocks-6-Cool-Contraptions-That-Really-Keep-Time/48926984?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227076878279&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=189507900125&wl4=aud-566049426705:pla-293026869742&wl5=9004525&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=48926984&wl13=&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiA8rnfBRB3EiwAhrhBGrf-p35nNjxI3iqilTiAnAV3UNTAy_w-mkDpTbfqYv18sNuUj88L8RoCjmsQAvD_BwE

I have too many repeat customers to pull that off.

All that spring does is raise the arm when you snap a blade or release the front clamp. It has nothing to do with blade tension.

I had a few of those items. Then someone came to our table explaining that they saw it at someones house and did I have more. You never know. I have thought about a discount section on my table.

Thanks for that link JT. You can find the thin ply at Michaels or AC moor. Depending on where you live. I have a plywood supplier near where I buy 50 x 50 inch sheets of 1.5mm. A small acorn nut sounds perfect. Since you have a lathe you can open up the threaded section easily.

I always thought about having a laptop on our table with a video of me scrolling, but then they would see just how easy it really is.

The only thing I would use the laser for is engraving small details that can not be cut with a scroll saw.

Melanie's explanation is great, I guess I was typing as she was posting. I have added a bit more to that. In a nut shell, a typical way is you get a pattern that is in a .DXF format (it is a universal drawing file data transfer format like .JPG is for pictures) Most of the patterns we buy are just a drawing, that drawing has no coordinate or dimensional information. As an example a wooden gear clock pattern published in a SSWWC magazine. the pattern is printed in a 1:1 scale but has no real information. The original was designed in a CAD program like Autocad using specific points, arcs and circles with precise coordinates for start and end points (X,Y coordinates) that is the information needed by the CNC machine. The Autocad design software or any like it allow you to save this data and transfer it in the . The DXF file has all of the dimensional information that will be imported into the drawing program of choice being used to run the the CNC router or laser. Easel being one of the free programs, it comes with the Xcarve machine. If you want 3D routing it gets more complicated and you usually have purchase a higher end program. The drawing program like Easel allows you to put in information like cutter diameter, material thickness, start points etc. It then converts it to the machine language that will control your router. Typically G-code https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/G-code this tells the router where to go, raise/lower turn on the router or laser etc. There is software especially in the laser cutter world that automatically converts an image into a file that the laser can use. You see these Kiosks at the malls that take a photo and etch it into wood fro you. As a scroll saw user you are converting the images in your head and moving the material in the proper directions to follow the lines. Bottom line is, you need to be computer savvy and a bit of a mechanical junkie.

What are you selling? Any pictures?

I grew up around tools, my dad was a machinist. I did some hand fretwork as a kid. but my first use of a scroll saw was making some gingerbread for the gable in the shed that I built. I used an inherited Craftsman saw, and it made me realize how much fun scrolling is and it also the Saw taught me that If I wanted to continue the hobby it was not going to be with this saw. It took minutes to go from one hole to the next and only seconds to do the cut. My wife then bought me a Delta SS350 significantly better saw. and I did the small eagle. Lessons learned, don't use crap wood. I then started stack cutting small ornaments. like the one attached.(4") A year after the Delta I bought a Hawk G4 26. I now do a fair amount of work with SSWWC magazine as a test cutter and other challenging projects. I did a presentation at one of the Fox Chapel open house events on "Advanced Scrolling" . My first comment was that there is no such thing. Once you master the basics. Jerry1939 really said it perfectly "To you nice people that hesitate to start what looks like a challenging/difficult piece, just remember it is always 1 hole & cut at a time. It doesn't make any difference if it takes 7 months (as this did), or you start 1 or more projects per day. The amount of sawdust is the same either way." As soon as you tell your self " Oh I can't do that". In reality you don't know that until you try. It is only wood.