Jim Blume

I do most of my portrait cuts on Baltic Birch 1/8" in a 2 or 3 stack. If I am going to be cutting only a single, I use 1/4" instead of the 1/8". I find it easier to control that way. Single 1/8" is difficult for me to control. I don't use shelf paper or tape but simply use a repositioning spray (Locktite 100 or Elmers) to affix the patterns and then mostly use Flying Dutchman # 1 Ultra reverse blades. That style blade is 2 teeth down, one up in repetition throughout the blade. I do get some slight fuzzies on the back side but don't seem to get tear outs. Every 20 cuts or so, I do turn the project over and sand the back with a mouse to get rid of the fuzzies so the project will slide easier on the table. My wife likes the FD Polar blades which are really fine teeth and easy to control but has no reverse teeth and leave lots of fuzzies, but again no tear outs. She also sands the back side with a Mouse every dozen cuts or so. I have tried all the newer methods and techniques but keep going back to what many refer to as old school. I often say in jest, I do it all wrong according to some of the experts. Old school straight blades and what I had learned many years ago from folks like Patrick Spielman and Dirk Bolman have worked for me for so long, this old dog will keep on using his old tricks. I often get asked "What is the best way to do this or that? My answer will always be the same. No. My way may not be the best way. It is one way and it is the best way for me. I suggest to all folks who want to develop "their own personal best way", is to try all the different methods, techniques and products available and determine what is the best way for you. And yes, even old dogs can learn new tricks for if not, I would still be tracing patterns with carbon paper onto my work piece.

I was getting concerned that since I had not done any serious cutting I had lost interest. For 4 months this pattern was on my saw and I could only cut a few cuts at a time before I got bored with it for some reason. Yesterday I knocked out half and then did over 300 cuts in it today. Might just have been the enjoyment of the summer season that got me off my game. I had previously never cut many bear patterns, but never a polar bear. Now I can no longer say that. My thanks to Papa Dynamite for the use of this awesome pattern.

Personally, although I had built a lightbox, when my wife bought me a light pad from Amazon with led lights in it, I gave away my home made box. But here is a video of a light box using LED light strips that looks to be a solution fort you building a 3 X 4' light box. https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=led+light+table&&view=detail&mid=C57D8046C2C84407F6D8C57D8046C2C84407F6D8&&FORM=VDRVRV

When I was in the business of doing full time craft shows, it always seemed as though I was behind getting things ready for Christmas shows. It might not be too early to get started. I'll be watchin' Santa. Oh, and here is a pattern you might want to try.

You noted you were struggling, and I can certainly understand that. Some images are quite difficult to work with due to contrast and such not being easily picked out. Maybe if you take this and work from there you can come up with a viable pattern. It's a matter of erasing here and there to insure that you have bridges and leaving enough detail to be recognizable when cut. I'm wanting to see you succeed in designing a pattern on your own.

Although it wasn't mentioned, Woodrush typically takes patterns that I design at 11 X 14" and cuts them at 8 1/2 X 11". (The dude's Insane) Not sure what size he did this one, but regardless, he did an awesome job on it, especially after being off the saw for a number of months. Blessings to you Pard.

In another thread, folks were discussing the hardness of various woods. I have this chart saved to my computer and if I remember to look at it, it helps me determoine which blades to use, and also if I really want to use that wood at all. Hope this chart helps. https://woodandshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/janka-wood-hardness-wood-and-shop.pdf

Here is a good reference you might wish to copy and refer to as time goes on. https://woodandshop.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/10/janka-wood-hardness-wood-and-shop.pdf

The last compound cut chess set I did, I used walnut and birch, both which cut nicely with great contrast. Not sure what the density of padauk is, but hard maple is a bit tough as well. I wish you the best as you continue with the project, and I am sure it will end up being an heirloom piece treasured forever.

When I cropped the pattern, it was primarily to give a pattern that was less intimidating and discuss something that you could do yourself with difficult patterns. I would like to think that most designers would not care if you did this to most patterns. | Now that I see it, I may cut it myself as it doesn't seem to lose any of the impact and you don't have that really long cut to worry about. It does add a few cuts to your total though, so if you are into counting cuts and keeping a log book, that may ber better for increasing your annual total.

Thanks all "for not telling the designer" I messed with his pattern. As a few folks mentioned, those loooong cuts can sometimes be more of a challenge than many many small cuts. The zero insert works well too, especially with fragile cuts. Dennis Knappen likes my Elder pattern, and I have to say that it is also one of my favorites, and has been cut many times for folks here in Wisconsin's native American community. Thanks all for your comments, and especially working together to help out others who may happen upon this thread.

Thanks for all the time you spent on this. I do the technique using Inkscape you are discussing all the time for folks. Some can't see unless a pattern is in red or with red outlines and a gray fill and they ask me to change things up for them. Always happy to help when I have time, but f you have a computer, it is actually fun to do it yourself. It really seemed hard until I figured out the "one potato, two" you described here. And that is really all it is, a step by step process, but man oh man was I intimidated when I first tried to learn this. I wish I had you around to explain this to me then.

I hear that sometimes, and can remember when I too was intimidated by a pattern. But then someone told me, "One hole at a time" and it changed my entire thought process. Besides that, things being fragile can pose a different set of concerns and there are a variety of techniques to help you there too. Taping waste pieces back inside fragile areas might be an option, cutting really long cuts out in sections rather than all at one time, and I'm sure others work as well. Point here is to not be intimidated or overcome. Like ole Dan George said in a movie, "Endeavor to Persevere". But if you still would like to make something less fragile, cropping a pattern might be an option for you. See what I did here, but don't tell the designer I messed with his pattern......

Perfect!!! You back on the saw especially.

Whoa! Awesome project. Thanks for sharing your work.

Well done for sure. I had not yet seen that pattern cut but you did it better than I could have imagined. As to the spirals, after 50 plus years of cutting with straight blades, I just can't seem master them and get the results I want. Maybe this is one of those cases where an old dog can't learn those new tricks. Besides that, the only exercise I get anymore is turning the board....LOL

Super job on that for sure. I did a whole series of similar patterns last year but this was one of my favorites. I think they are all in the files here somewhere. Thank you for showing us your work.

Awesome job. You even made my pattern look grand. Always rewarding to me to see what folks are able to do with these patterns. Thanks for showing us your work. Also, to save folks from having to hunt through the files for the pattern, here you go.

Enjoy the journey regardless of what you decide to do with it.

Folks ask me if I could make patterns fit pieces of wood they have available. Of course scaling or changing the size of the pattern is one option many folks use. But here are some other options to consider. Taking a portion of a pattern and cropping it so as to fit a narrow board, or even making it into a circle or oval using your own thought processes and individual creativity can multiply all the patterns you have collected into many more options. Or how about liking the Indian woman in this pattern and wanting it to stand alone? Just crop out everything you don't want. Use your imagination and enjoy the journey.

I used a Type 1 for 5 days a week and 25 years doing a full time craft business. All I ever did to it was grease the main bearing with Vasoline twice a year. I recently sold that saw after buying both a Pegas and a Seyco. The DW saw was slightly more aggressive but it is nothing you can't get used to. I sold mine for $300 with the stand and a foot switch and a small shop vac The Type 1 was made in Canada, and at the same time as Excalibur moved to Taiwan, so did Dewalt. The type 2 is also a good saw if it was made in Taiwan. Later the company was sold and when they began making them in China was when problems started. As to the age of the saw, of course the age is a consideration but so too is the amount of use it got. Tons of saws are out there that were only used slightly and then sat collecting dust. If this saw in question operates smoothly with no clicking noises, it is worth the money in my opinion.

Cut this a few years ago as a Father's Day gift, from a photo of my son and his kids, walking the beach and heading for the water. Fortunately found a pices of oak veneer that reminded me of the pattern water leaves on the beach as the tide ebbs and flows.

Remembering my first day in Basic Training with the promise to get my first clothing issue the following day. And then the Sergeant saying, let's see how many of you will walk the walk, so you can have the right to talk the talk. I made this pattern for all of those who have earned that right.

Happy to have done the entire project for your boss lady person. Glad she likes it.