Norm Fengstad

I never nip the notch off blades work fine on my Seyco

Good ideas thanks for sharing

Hi Peter I have cut this several times using construction grade spruce, birch and I think maple. The hardwoods are stronger of course and seem to take a better finish, My go to blades are # 3 or #5 Niqua or pegas. There are many reasons for blade breakage, with practice you will find the best blades and techniques that work best for you

I like to use the Pegas Modified blade lasts longer less burn marks

I use the Seyco scroller drill works excellent

nice pattern and great cut. The whiskers and hair wow

have never used a blade guard and have on ocaission run a finger into a moving blade with no problems, except once I received a minor skin tear when using a larger blade #12. My grandaughter did receive a bruise from the blade tightener knob. A guard would not have prevented that as the tightener knob is outside of any protection the guard would have offered.

great idea

Cedar is a demon to me The dust effects respiratory things and gives me blisters on my nose and cheeks. A toxicoligest person told me the eyes, ears and pores on ones skin are all an entry point for toxics

I just use a brush to paint on wood spirits and wait a while sometimes it works real good other times sanding the pattern offis the way I do things

Someone said having a organized shop is a sign of a sick mind but I wish my mind will become as sick as yours Barb.

Garnet Hall at Sawbird.com has patterns that can be mailed out

me too

Cedar is a great wood but I sparingly use it as the toxic dust and fumes cause rash and blisters on my face. I wear dust mask however the toxic resins can enter ones body through eyes and even skin so a toxicologist told me

two at a time