NLAlston

I have heard about the Hegner scroll saws, but had never seen one, before. Just now, I took a look at one and (OMG) - that thing looks AWESOME. Not a saw for the 'shallow pockets' , but - and most certainly - one to be worked towards. I am so happy for you, and am left salivating .

Agreed .

Hi there. Check this out:

Do you think it possible that Walmart has gotten wind of how many scrollers have found great favor in that product?

Thanks for responding. Yes, I am sure that the cost for associated items, regarding Steve's setup, might prove to be issues for some, but I happened to have two foot switches, already, as well as the required voltage wall wart. Like you, I'd prefer to have the device mounted directly on my saw, and will work towards achieving that aim - once I have zeroed in on the right laser. You gave me something to think about when you mentioned using a toggle switch, instead of a foot switch. I think I'd like THAT idea much better. About bottom-feeding, I'd have to say that it is a feeding manner that I AM comfortable with - WHEN project sizes permit. However (and as had already been mentioned, in my initial post), I like doing larger sized portraits. In fact, I want to do some three-foot length portraits. Angling up these portraits, for bottom feeding the blade through, would not fall within an easy action. And that is the reason why I am so interested in setting up with the laser light aid. I'll post back, with how I make out. Nathan

Thanks Jerry. I'll certainly give that a shot.

Oh, I am so sorry. I have the DeWalt 788.

Congrats from me, too. Got mine for this past Father's Day, and I absolutely LOVE it. I've no doubt that you, TOO, will quickly develop a love relationship with YOUR saw.

Steve Good is one heck of an instructor, with a bunch of highly informative scroll saw YouTube videos. Just recently I watched his 'Scroll Saw Problem Solved' video, which really drew me in. This past summer, I really got my 'scroll sawing' feet wet by cutting out wooden portraits. I, typically, like to cut the 14"x11" and 16"x12" sizes, and had been bottom feeding. Those sizes (for me) do not lend themselves well, for bottom feeding, and I tried the top feeding approach. That, however, resulted in blade bendings, and breakages - as I could never seem to line up the feeding hole, of my wood piece, with the blade hole in my saw's table. Enter in Steve Good's very excellent idea for combating that. The other day, I ordered two of those cross style laser beam devices (the same that Steve used), and they arrived today. I took them, directly, to my shop, and set about marrying one of them to a 5v wall wart that I had laying around, here. I plugged the wart in, and the device came to life - but with a problem. It was NOT the cross beam style, that I had ordered, but the single line version. Steve mentioned that these lasers could be obtained in the cross beam, dot, and line versions. The first two, mentioned, would fit the bill, nicely. But the last one (to me) wouldn't have nearly the visual directness of the former two. I've written this for two reasons. One, is for the benefit of others, who may be interested in top feeding, and who may NOT have seen Steve Good's video which addresses how to conquer that top feeding issue. The second reason is to ask a question regarding such laser devices. I didn't know this, when I ordered mine, but Amazon had a no return policy on these items. They'll refund my money (which wasn't much, to begin with), and I could re-order. But, I might run into the same situation again. The situation is that I have a fair number of portraits to get done, before Christmas, so time is important. Does anyone know of anywhere else that I might be able to see about getting what I need, from? Advanced thanks.

Yes, this is an awesome community, indeed. Welcome, here.

I have ALWAYS removed my adhesive papers/tapes from my projects immediately after completing the cuts.

That ain't bad, at all. I bought mine (including light & stand) from Grizzly, also, back in June. I paid a bit more ($499.99 + shipping), but I still came out better than if I had dealt with a local outlet - which was selling just the base unit for $500+tax. I love my 788, even though it's presently giving me a hurdle, or two. But I'm sure that those issues can be easily rectified. I only wished that I hadn't confused the Dewalt with its Delta cousin. I had thought that the Dewalt was the one which came with the 5yr warranty. Oh well .

Well, I am now back in business. It seems that tapping the side of the switch housing with a hammer, and block of wood, did the trick. I had forgot to mention that I had lost that 'Click' , when toggling the switch off and on. But that sound, and feel is back, now, and everything seems to be fine. Before usage, though, I AM going to cover that switch, and marry my saw to the foot-switch that I have. I thank everyone who tried to help me.

Yes, PLEASE enlighten me. Last night, I put the power switch in the 'On" position, and blew dust out of it with the only forced-air device that I had - which is a battery operated leaf blower. But, that effort changed nothing. So, it MUST be a malfunctioned switch. I am a little confused, though. I haven't been on my scroll saw nearly as much as most of you, and have only owned it for just a couple of months. One would think that this kind of thing should NOT have happened so SOON. However, once this situation has been surmounted, I will be SURE to heed the advice, given here, by all. I look forward to your instruction. And, advanced thanks.

Forgot the quote.

I, also, just did a bit of researching to see if any others had suffered the same dilemma. Some others had, and mentioned that their situations had been cleared by either replacing a bad fuse, or by blowing out the power switch area, taping it up and using a foot switch. I've already found that the former was not the problem, and will try the latter, tomorrow. I have a Foredom carver, which came with a foot switch, and I'm in hopes that this - along with blowing the dust out - will do the trick. I'll post back.

It's only a few months that I have had my Dewalt 788, and it was bought brand spanking new. About 45 minutes ago I ventured into my shop, to do a portrait cutout, and my saw wouldn't turn on. I insured that power to the outlet was still good, and tried a few more times. No go - it just wouldn't turn on. Then, I remembered that this saw had a fuse, and I just knew that the matter would involve a blown fuse. So I removed the fuse, examined it, and was disheartened to find that it didn't seem to be the fuse. There was no black ring, anywhere on its glass body - nor anything which would suggest a fault. Now, I don't know if a fuse could be bad without giving visual indication of such a condition. I'll pick some up, tomorrow, as it would be wise to keep some on hand. But I have a feeling that there is something, else, going on with my saw. Wow, what a BUMMER.

By the way, my scroll saw is the Dewalt 788, and the blade tensioning position had been set at the 3.5 setting.

I also wonder if my issue has more to do with tensioning, as opposed to anything else. At the Pegas website I ran across some info which put the #7 Spiral blade as a worthy candidate for 3/4" (and even somewhat greater) thicknesses of plywood stock. But, it just may be that there are two elements - tensioning, and speed - which may need addressing. Trial and error episodes, I guess, just may be of the order.

Yesterday, I applied myself to scroll cutting more of the 'Christ with thorns' portrait patterns'. I had done two, before, with one of my sisters getting one. She liked it so much that she wanted two more, as gifts to her two children. I'm not a seasoned scroll sawer, and (largely because of the number of internal cuts) I thought it would be nice to batch cut the portraits. So, I secured three pieces of 16"x12"x 1/4" plywood together, and began with the project (the third one was supposed to be a gift for someone else). I encountered two problems. The first one could be remedied by the use of a 'sacrificial' bottom board, for what is resulted from the cutting characteristics of the blade, on that bottom piece. Had I used one, on this project, the stock thickness would have been raised another 1/4" - giving me a 1" total to push through the blade. Now, the blade I was using is the Olsen #4 Spiral blade, and I had never broken a blade before - not until this project. I actually broke 4-5 blades and, for those that hadn't suffered breakage, they (more than a few times) kept slipping out of the lower blade holder. I had read, somewhere, that it wasn't good to really torque down on the blade holders, so I had always just gave them good tightening. But, I wonder if (just maybe) I was using the wrong size blade for the thickness of that project. I've bought all of my blades locally (Rockler), and they have only stocked the Olson #4 Spiral blades (as far as I've known). I've been hearing great things about the Pegas blades, and think that I am going to make them my supplier. But I would really appreciate it if someone could enlighten me as to what number Spiral blade I would need for cutting thicker stock (3/4" & 1"). As always, your input would be greatly appreciated.

I am VERY INTERESTED in learning how to make my own portrait patterns, for cutting out of plywood sheets. I have scoured the internet for some type of clear, instructional guide, for doing so, but have not been successful, as yet. I just watched a guy on Youtube, though (I didn't link his video, because of not being sure it would be permitted), who was doing a great job of 'painting' in his cutouts of a portrait pattern, and wish that I could gain a handle on his operation. His software was Corel Draw. I don't have that particular software program, but I do own Photoshop Elements 7, as well as Photoshop CS5. Though I've had them for a good while, I haven't integrated myself with them nearly as much as one might think. But, that's about to change, now. I am reasonably sure that what I have could do the same thing, as his software did for him, but he wasn't speaking on his actions - compounded by the fact that he was moving at a rapid pace. I found him by searching Youtube for 'Scroll saw portrait Patterns" (I THINK thats what I typed in). ANY direction, that I could be given - to do as I desire to, would be MOST appreciated. She Thinks It's Big Enough! | Family Feud FamilyFeud Recommended for you 28:37 Dangerous Idiots Extreme Heavy Equipment Excavator Fastest Driver Operator & Fails Skill NQT Worldwide Recommended for you 7:44 Scrollsaw Portrait for a Friend Sterling Davis 16K views 10:02 The Best Of Eagle Attacks 2018 - Most Amazing Moments Of Wild Animal Fights! Wild Discovery Animals Wild Animals Recommended for you 17:36 Hyenas Destroy lioness ❖ Male Lion Comes To Revenge O- K- A tube Recommended for you 10:03 7 Most POWERFUL and Dangerous PISTOLS of ALL TIME MAD LAB Recommended for you 17:02 TOP 3 Ways to Make $100 PER DAY as a Broke Individual Mike Vestil Recommended for you 6:48 Creating Scroll Saw patterns with Corel Draw (Portraits) sdgood 237K views 8:52 Amazing!! Animal Saves Another Animal | Animal Heroes 2016 HD ANIMALBIOLOGIE Recommended for you 12:36 Making a Simple Scroll Saw Box with an Inlayed Top jahellen 6.7K views 8:51 Scroll saw portrait pattern in Paint Shop Pro sdgood 51K views 10:39 Top 10 Incredible Street Performers Videos [AMAZING] Viral Maniacs Recommended for you 17:00 Designing a Name Plate with Inkscape Scroll Saw Goodies 8.9K views Live: Super strength Lion huting Animal ,National Geographic Animals, Animal Documentary BBC 2018.. Channel DMG 9.1K watching LIVE NOW 6:02 What size scroll saw should I buy? sdgood 1.2K views New LIVE: Top 5 Primitive Technology Fishing Big Fish and Cooking Emma's Fishing 21K watching LIVE NOW 4:37 Tree of Life / Scroll Saw Art Sterling Davis 412K views SHOW MORE How to convert an image to a scroll saw pattern Anthony Owens

This is the very first one that I did, just recently. I used a #5 Skip Tooth blade on this, cut out of a 16"x12" piece of 1/4" underlay. Loved it so much, that I can't wait to do many more.

To the respondees, I thank you so much for your input. Yes, I have found that Spiral blades do not give that 'finessed' cut of flat blades, but (and again) they do reduce the swiveling of some wood pieces that I'd be cutting into. As suggested, I am going to go out and invest in some smaller numbered blades - and invest in a bunch (since 'smaller' is more than likely to translate into easier breakage). Thanks.

Accidental double post. Sorry.