cowboyup3371

Finished project is here -

If you saw my other post, you know I wanted to give my congratulations for the person behind the Whitney Woodworking Farm Scene as that was a fantastic pattern and definitely very challenging to cut. As promised, here is the finished cookbook stand where that pattern is used. I used Curly Cherry with Walnut for the screw hole plugs and handmade knobs with General Finishes oil-based Gloss Arm-R-Seal. I designed the tilt feature based on some others I found but slightly modified since I could only connect them via the sides because of the pattern. This way she can either leave it on counter as a display when she's not cooking or tilt it back to work from. Bookstand Front by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Rear by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Side by Scott Baker, on Flickr And with her new cookbook I bought Bookstand With Book by Scott Baker, on Flickr Bookstand Side With Book by Scott Baker, on Flickr Can't wait to see her face on Christmas Day.

Thank you all. I finished the stand yesterday and was about to post pictures today when I noticed a problem on one side. So, back to the workshop I went to lay down additional coats and hope to be able to retake the pictures late tomorrow or Monday. I'll post them by Christmas

I'm not sure if whoever is responsible for the Whitley Woodworking patterns is still an active member but if so, you are a fantastic designer. I do not have any of the experience that most of you do but I do like to challenge myself and this pattern was tough to cut. I hope I don't make you roll your eyes too much but first, here's the pattern for those who aren't familiar with it: Country Barn by Scott Baker, on Flickr And now my interpretation cut into a 1/2" thick piece of Cherry. I say it this way as a couple of pieces broke my best attempts to not cut things too thin. IMG_5589 by Scott Baker, on Flickr I also couldn't get all of the really small cuts but that could also be the fact I'm using a #5 double skip reverse blade. This will become the main portion of a cookbook stand my eldest daughter asked me for as a Christmas gift. I should have it finished in the next few weeks. Has anyone cut this pattern so I can see how it should look next time?

Hello from Miamisburg (near Dayton)

It's been awhile but since I posted this thread I rebuilt the top end on my daughter's motorcycle, made a week long trip along the Blue Ridge Parkway and Cherohala Skyway, dealt with my mother-in-law's funeral, and assembled the four drawers. Now, I'm finally ready to start on this part but before I actually start cutting (already drilled my entry holes not shown here), I wanted to make sure how I can put it back together. Again, the plan is to cut this pattern as an inlay using white oak as the drawer face and walnut for the pattern. I have the scroll saw set to cut at a 3-degree angle using a #5 blade and my one practice cut was okay. However, I only made sure it would fit and didn't try to make it a permanent set up. So, how do I glue the inlay to the face? Is it okay to use the Titebond III white glue, hide glue, or something else? Do i just brush on a light coat to both sides or is there another better way? Drawer Face Woods by Scott Baker, on Flickr Drawer Face Scroll Work Preparation by Scott Baker, on Flickr This picture of the drawers was taken before I glued and sanded everything but they look pretty good so far Drawers Cut and pre-assembled by Scott Baker, on Flickr

Thank you all.

As I mentioned some time ago, SWMBO wants me to finally build a new entertainment center. After some thought about how I can make it as close to a German Schrank as possible, I found this pattern here on the site (even the pattern doesn't say whose it is so thank you to anonymous) that I want to have behind the drawer pulls. I intend to place the pulls just above the design but still need time to set that up before I start fully. One other note, the wife wants the entertainment center to look as similar as possible to our grandfather clock I bought in Germany 16 years ago. So I picked up a small piece of white oak to mimic the drawer face (will make some test stains with it) and set to some practicing. First attempt was made from oak plywood which taught me I needed to not cut it as tight as the image looks since I broke one end almost immediately. I started the second attempt last night and finished earlier this evening: Drawer Face Practice by Scott Baker, on Flickr These are still not perfect as I used some leftover walnut that wasn't big enough for the pattern to fit properly but was enough to practice the hardest parts. I like how it turned out and will stay with the 1/4" walnut but I need to be sure I take more time on it. I'm planning on cutting about 8 total if I follow my initial thoughts which probably means I should try to stack cut them but I'm a bit nervous because my last stack cut effort was pretty poor. Does anyone have any suggestions as to how I can do it and not mess up?

Gorgeous, I will listen to the video a bit later but I will have to go find the pattern to make my own copy.

Very nice looking tribute; I'm sorry for the loss of your friend

Thank you all. The nieces and cousin's granddaughter got theirs yesterday; all three said they liked them.

Very nice job

Thank you

I took another one of Steve Good's patterns but reduced the size to match what stock I had to make these picture frames. They will hold 3.5" x 5" photos instead of the 4"x6" he originally called for and are made from curly red oak. These five are for my two daughters, two of my great-nieces, and my cousin's granddaughter. Although I originally made these just because, my eldest will turn 22 tomorrow and so the one set up for landscape pictures is her birthday gift. The four dark ones have a black cherry stain with a lacquer finish while the light colored frame has just lacquer on it (that great-niece said she wanted a light colored object - still not knowing what). Small Picture Frames by Scott Baker, on Flickr

I mounted it to the wall tonight; please ignore the power cables to the left as my Uninterruptible Power Supply (UPS) sits right there and I haven't bothered to clean that up kvm switchbox mounted by Scott Baker, on Flickr

I hoped to have done that this evening but worked called at the last second and said we had to put in 3-1/2 hours OT so it's too late to set the anchors in the wall tonight for it. I'll post up something this weekend.

I have a push button that sits up on the desk

Thank you all; I really appreciate it

I built a new computer this past weekend to let me process photos and videos better. However, my desk space is very limited because I also have my work laptop, docking station, and dual monitors taking up the real estate. So I also bought a Keyboard, Video, and Mouse (KVM) switch box to swap between the two systems and not have to use multiple peripherals. I didn’t like the idea of it sitting on the floor so I made this to mount it to the wall. KVM Bracket front by Scott Baker, on Flickr KVM Bracket Rear by Scott Baker, on Flickr

Thank you Slasher. As far as mounting the TV on the wall - yea, not happening as I live in a mobile home and do not trust the walls will hold it very well. I know some people have probably done it but I just don't trust it.

I'm designing an entertainment center for the house and thought about incorporating some scroll work into it but not sure what or IF I should even do. Part of me is thinking of using any of the trivets I found in the pattern library for the area directly behind each drawer handle. Additionally, a person I knew suggested incorporating something into the top of the structure which again, I'm trying to figure out if I should or even what I can use. I also don't want whatever I do to look out of place so I'm not decided. Would anyone be willing to provide their thoughts or recommendations? Here's my current design using either White Oak or Maple. The center is 100" wide by 65" tall and 16" deep. Entertainment Center by Scott Baker, on Flickr

Good job

To offer another source, Klockit.com sells clock movements and parts. I have put their stuff into two of my clocks and will do so again for the face I made once I return from my business trip next week

Thank you for the compliments. I drilled them with just holes first but they were definitely not in any resemblance of a line. So I just made them look closer to what the wheels on my two bikes look like. But even with that, I kept touching the pattern with the chuck of my hand drill so it would mess up the marks. I need to pay more attention to how far in I go with the bit

Howdy from another Scott in Ohio - although I live over in the Dayton area