FrankEV

Welcome from Florida. Nice work. How about a little more info about you. Like, where located, what kand of saw you are using, other interesting tidbits. We all like to get to know each other as we are all "family" here.

Very nice, but I would have changed the word "penny" to "Dollar and made a slot in the top of brew crew box . Nobody carries pennies these days and where can you get coffee for a few cents?

The following projects were completed in between my Physical Therapy exercises for my knee after surgery, regular 20 minute ice pack applications to keep the swelling down and a number of other doctor appointments to check out a few other maladies that need to be attended to. Ability to walk and stand for any length of time was severely hampered. Finally getting almost being back to normal. Shop time is improving. So please enjoy and critique as always. The Joker – Like it or hate it! I’m positing this project although I don’t really like the final product. The cut is not bad, but my paint work leaves a lot to be desired. Also, after the project was completed, I didn’t find the subject very interesting or the most pleasant to view. Sometimes I think it is a good idea to post something I’m not happy just to get other’s perspectives. This pattern is another I converted from a free stencil pattern I found on-line. The cut panel is 5/32” thk solid core Maple Ply x11” x14” mounted to a ¼” thk BB Ply backer painted black. All cutting was done with Pegas #2/0 spiral blades. The cut panel was hand painted with Acrylic artist paints. The assembled panel was finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. Like always, the simple 1 ¾” wide frame is Poplar stained with Minwax Early American and finished with gloss Wipe-On Poly. Buddleia Butterfly Bush - H Donavan I found this beautiful and elegant H Donavan stencil pattern on-line and converted it into a scroll saw pattern. I sized the pattern to fit on a 5/32” thk Maple sold core x 9” x 17” panel that was affixed to a hand painted ¼” thick x 11” x 19” Mahogany Backer. The site where I found the stencil, showed many colored images which I followed somewhat while painting the backer. Once again, I cut this pattern with Pegas #2/0 spiral blades which was perfect for cutting the many very small/thin cut out areas. Again, the simple 1 ¾” wide frame is Poplar stained with Minwax Mission Oak Poly/stain. After taking the picture and looking at the frame under the lights, I see a lot of runs and blemishes I had not noticed. So I’m going to sand and refinish it in the coming days. Flying Eagle – Just for me I have had this Steeve Goode pattern on my to-do list for some time. A number of other member’s hereon, have posted their version and they were all exquisite. I decided to make one for ME and sit it on my desk right next to my “GRUMPY OLD MAN” sign. I used a piece of ¾” Red Oak I purchased in Lowes. As per Steve’s suggestion I made the base ¾” thick, and planed the ¾” down to ½” for the Eagle. Since I was cutting thicker and harder material, I chose to use Pegas #3 MGT R blades for Eagle and #5 MGT R to cut the oval base. Since I have been using mostly spirals of late, it took me a little bit of time to get used to the straight blades again. I refined the oval on the benchtop belt sander and use a ¼” round over bit in my router table to ease the top edge of the base. My version is slightly larger than the original having a wing span of 12". I left the wood natural and just applied multiple coats of clear gloss Lacquer as a finish.

Yep, the white on black gets my vote...great job.

Great work with the spirals. What size spirals did you use?

Well done.

They are trully beautiful.

Peter, Glad you were able to use the pattern. Would never know you were rusty at the cutting...looks great, especially all the little pointy leaf vaines. It turned out excelent. The Red roses work well.

I don't remember the movie, but a very well cut project.

You did a great job. Your friend and his wife will be thrilled.

My Lowes also has glued up 12" wide Poplar boards. I cut up Poplar boards into 1 3/4" wide sticks that I make my frames from. Although expensive, 12" wide boards make the frames rather economical. But cant use the glued up boards as the uneven grain doe not work well for stained frames. I've settled on cutting up 8" wide 6' long boards into 4 sticks with little waste.

Very, very well Done! Every one of us needs to cut this pattern and stand it on our desk. It is a beautiful piece, patriotic to some degree and shows off our hobby/talent to the umpteenth degree. I have it on my to-do list, just keeps getting pushed back as other projects seem to jump in front of the line. I wonder how many have cut this piece? Maybe we can get a headcount as we get replys to you post.

Krylon makes a spray "Sealer". I found it at Hobby Lobby. It is made for sealing canvases and wood that will be painted. It smells and acts like a very thin Lacquer. Dries quickly. Will not soak in too much unless the wood is real soft....Walnut should not absorb the sealer too much. After painting and then sanding, the exposed wood should be like new so I would use Deft Lacquer, after sanding to min 600 grit, to coat the entire piece. I like Lacquer and I feel it does a good job making the grain pop. It works to protect the painted areas as well.

Awesome Work. Your cutting skills are top notch. Very crisp and clean. Nice to be able use real solid wood for projects. For the quanity of portraits I do, the cost factor for solid wood is just too prohibited.

No, any and all painting must be done before cut panel is affixed to the backer. I use the cut panel or a copy of the cutting pattern to act like a template to outline and then paint the backer. Very imortant to extend the backer colors beyond the cuts so there are no visable unpainted areas showing. If the cut panel needs to be painted, I do that also before attaching the panel to the backer. When the cut panels needs painting, the vertical cut edges of the cut out areas also need to be painted or the edges show up dramatically....not good. A very tedious job, but very necessary. Shading and blending of colors is the most difficult part of the painting process. Something I'm trying to learn to do better. Just let all paint dry completely before clamping the panels together or the surfaces can be marred very easily. Hope this info helps.

Your pet food bill must be very large!. Nice cutting!

Can't wait to see the finished product.

Although you may not be a religious person your prayers to follow the lines must have been answered since that looks absolutely perfect to me. Beautiful work!

Wow!!!!! Absolutely beautiful. Going to be cherished for a long time to come. Just curious, why one witn a monogram and the othe not?

FYI, you can buy the solid core Cherry plywood through HD. However, for such a beautiful project as that clock, solid wood is IMO the only way to go.

My Black Panther cut, that I just completed and posted in Bragging Rights, was actually cut because it was trully based on a nostalgia memory/reason. Back in the fifties my High School Teams were called the Panthers and this particular pattern is almost identical to the Black Panther Images use on the team jerseys and jackets. None of my other work fits the challenge criteria.

Wanting to add to my Whimsical theme, I found a free stencil Image of “Squirt” from Finding Nemo. There are tons of Squirt Images to choose from, but this one was best suited for conversion into a Scroll Saw Pattern. The cutting fit nicely on a 9X9 panel which is mounted of an 11x11 backer. The cut panel is 5/32” Solid Core Maple Ply affixed to a ¼” BB ply backer. Cutting was completed using Pegas #2/0 Spiral Blades. Both the Backer and cut panel are hand painted using Artist Acrylic paints. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The Custom Frame is 1 5/8” wide Polar, finished with three coats of Minwax Pecan Poly/stain. While searching for appropriate images that would be suitable for conversion into a Scroll Saw Pattern, I ran across a stencil pattern for a Black Panther I just had to make. Way back when, my High School sport teams were the Panther’s and the team image was always a Black Panther. Since the image was always intended to be painted, I used 1/8” BB Ply for the cut panel which was attached to an 11x14, ¼” BB ply backer. Cutting was done using Pegas #2/0 Spiral Blades. The cut panel was spray painted with Krylon All-in-one Gloss Black primer and paint. The Backer was hand painted with Artist Acrylic paints. The assembled panel was protected with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The Custom Frame is 1 3/4” wide Polar, finished with three coats of Minwax Classic Black Poly/stain. For an update on my knee surger recovery progress, check my post in Coffe House.

I have had blushing occur a number of times when using spray can lacquer. After the coat dries a subsequent coat will eliminate the blushing...don't know why, but it does. As I mentioned before, it has happened with lacquer by Minwax and Krylon, but never Deft. My Ace Hardwear used to only have one or two cans of Deft on the shelf. However, since I have been buying them out frequently, I noticed they are stocking more now. I only get two, maybe three 11x14 panels out of one can so I buy a min of two cans at a time.

I beleive any good quality brand of a gloss enamel is considered safe for children these day since lead is no longer use in paints. A good primer and then paint with multiple coats will give a hard, safe mouthable coating. Laike anything else, reading the lable is always a good I dea.

I also use Deft Spray Lacquer and prfer it over other brands. Available at Ace Hardware. I have had blushing/fogging problems with other brands. I see in you pic you use Krylon. Although I like Krylon for their paints, it is one of the brands I've had blushing problems with. I'm in Florida with high humidity and very high temps this time of year. I do have a small AC unit in my workshop, but temps still run well into the 80's in my small shop. Of all spray finishes, lacquer is the easiest to use as it dries quickly and provide a godd solid coating after multiple coats. Spray poly is hard to use with a long dry time and is effected by humidity. Oils do protect the wood, but they tend to allow the piece to collect dust and really require maintenance coats ove time. IMHO, unless you use a quick drying primer and paint, lacquer for natural or stained products intended for indoor use is you best choice. My Deft cans do not clog (at least they haven't ) on me. The proper proceedurre of turning the can upside down and flushing the nozzle after use is a good idea even though I haven't needed to do that.