FrankEV

Looks nice, but the Intarsia forum would be a better place to post.

Great box, fantastic cutting. I have a couple of similar box patterns I want to do., just not enough time to make it happen.

Well done!! Horses are a great subjec! Display it with pride.. JFYI, I found the pattern on line in Pintest: Horse Scrollsaw Fretwork Portrait Cutting | Mike Fehrings Artistry In Wood custom, free, free scrollsaw patterns, Fretwork, fretwork portraits, handcrafted, mikefehring.com, pattern, Scrollsaw, scrollsaw pattern, scrollsaw portraits, scrollsaw signs, Woodworking

Can't help with your other questions but I'm guessing at 79 years old I'm close to you in age and just bought myself a planer. It is a Craftsman bench top planer, even though I don't have room on my bench to mount it or even just stand it for use. The Craftsman is physically quite small even though it is a 12 1/2" wide unit. I built a very small wood stand (24 " w x 16" d x 29" h with locking casters so I can pull it out when it is needed. I'll do most of my planing, like I do my table saw ripping, out side, and most of the wood will be relatively short lenghts. And, I am happy that the planer on its stand tucks away in the corner while not in use. Like yourself, I'm not sure how often it will get used between now and when my time is up, but decided I realy can't think that way and decided to splurge the $349 at Lowes (of course with my 10% military discount helping). I have a local source of rough sawn wood and I'm hoping the planer will alow me to use some different woods mostly for frames and projects such as boxes and the like.

Great work on all the projects. BUT, that bowl won't hold any water!

I see in your pic you are using Createx AB specific paints. Is it necessay to use paint that is specifically intended for air brush work. I just purchased a relatively inexpensive AB kit with compressor that came with a gravity fed pen. I plan to only use with Acrylics. I have a ton of Acrylic Art Paint that come in bottles that I use for brush work. Can that be used? Thanks

Lots of good suggestions above, BUT, Poplar is not the best wood to get a decent stain job on. On raw Poplar, stain will look "Blotchy". To get a nice uniform stain job, the Poplar it first needs to receive a coat of pre-stain conditioner. It is unfornutate the dark grain is across half of the cut are. The difference betyween dark and light will only be emphasized by ANY stain or finish. My suggestion would be to make the backer a dark brown, maybe a Walnut Stain or my preference would be a dark brown paint to eliminate any visable grane of the backer. I would then apply a Natural stain to the cut panel which will tend to change the color slightly to a nicer uniform slightly yellow tint and then apply a protective coat of either Lacquer or Poly after the panel/backer is assembled. And always apply the protective coat to the back of the backer as well to prevent any chance of warping due to uneven moisture absorbsion Poplar tends to darken over time if not finished with a good protective coat. If the cut panel had a uniform grain, like maple of white oak has, coloring by selective area staining of the Wolf and Indian Face would have been a very appropriate choice. However, I'm not convinced it will enhance this cut. BTW, very nice cutting.

Pretty, but...tell me you really did not use the scroll saw to cut that. A band saw of jig saw maybe, but a scroll saw????

I really like it. Nice job on the cutting and the framing.

very nice. Got the B4UGO, but what does the P mean?

I use a sanding mop (Silverline Tools - Dome Sanding Mop - 75mm 240 Grit), I have mounted into a motor driven carving wand, every so often during a cutting for the same reasons. On a many hole pattern the fuzzies can even start to restrict the piece from sliding freely on the table. At the end of a cutting after a quick job with the mop, I will also sand the back with 220 grit on the palm sander and then finish cleaning all the little tight spots and any remaining fuzzies with a butane torch. I do almost everything with spirals also. Just finished a cut that had a bunch of long parralel curved lines with only about a 1/16" separation...a few wiggles but no cut throughs.

One of my favorite singers of all time. Well done! Nice spiral blade cutting.

Don't you just hate it when you glue the backer to the wrong side? I won't say anything about... you know what!

I own a Craftsman Spindle sander. It is in storage along with a few of my other previous workshop large power tools that I can't fit/use in my little shop. The Craftsman spindle is very large, When I was doing large wood working projects, I used the spindle sander a lot. Would love to be able to use it but just don't have the room.

Marvelous Job and thanks for the great story. Hope you signed and dated your work so it can be remembered when Jacob gets older and wants to know where it came from.

Your "Buchery" is well done. I don't see any reason to apologize! The grain in the Poplar almost looks like clouds streaking in front of the moon. Nice job on the wood orientation.

I designed the lamp. I created the Scroll saw pattern although I did steal the actual Seahorse part from a pattern I had purchased. PM me if you want the pattern.

Outstanding. Has a wonderful sculptured look. Would be a great mantle piece.

Yep, as long as I make the same basic one over and over.

Welcome to the SVV. Lots of good people on here and all willing to help when needed...just ask. Post up pics of your work under Bragging Rights and get lots of feedback.

I wear HA's also. Mine are not BT compatable but do stream our TV sound via a transmitter plugged into the TV. However, my HA's are programable and have 3 different setups. One if for streaming the TV sound, a second is normal sound situations and the third is for noisy situations such as crowded places. When I'm in the shop I use this third setting and can listen to my "Alexa" while cutting or working. Yes the router, bench sander and table saw are loud and will block out the music but those noises are very short lived. When scrolling I can still hear the music while cutting. This setting is like what a normal heearing person would hear with ear plugs.

This Night Lamp is made from solid Red Oak, is 12” high overall, the base and top are 5 1/2” square made from 1/2” thick material, and the lamp body is 4 1/2” square by 10” high made from 1/4" thick material. The body side walls were stack cut and cut using Pegas #0 spiral blades. The top is loose for bulb replacement purposes. The Red Oak was enhanced and finished with multiple coats of a combination of Minwax Red Oak Stain and Minwax Satin Wipe-On Poly. The Clear blue Plexiglas was frosted by using spray adhesive to affix sheets of clear velum film to the inside surface of the Plexiglas. The Electrical components include a premade 6’ lamp cord with an inline rocker switch, a threaded nipple w/nuts, a nipple mounted candelabra bulb socket base and a round 25 watt bulb. I created the Lamp body Seahorse Pattern to supplement my collection of nautical themed projects I’m putting together. The construction of this lamp is almost identical to the Hummingbird Lamp I made for my Lady a while back, but this time it went together better because I knew what I was doing. Also, this time all the chamfers and the body corner joint bevel cuts were completed on the Router table. This pic shows the bottom of the top with a gluded on piece of 1/4 Oak Ply that acts as a retainer to keep the top in place. A similar piece of 1/4" Oak ply was glused to the base to provise a greater gluing surface for the lamp body attachnemt to the base. This view also shows the installed velum coated Plexiglas difuser.

Very nice!

Well done...but we know you did not center the chevron and won't let you forget it!!! #LBKU15C = ???????

All well done. Glad to hear they are a good selling product.