FrankEV

Great job...guarenteed to be a hit. Love the flag as a backer. Are they going to be prizes or auction Items?

I'm going to download and add these great patterns to my to do list. However, I'm swamped with projects at the moment and Memorial Day is comming fast. So, for now, I will just plan to join you and make a donation to The Highground, a Veteran's Memorial. Thandk you, certainly seems like a good thing to do.

See my post above.

Check out https://www.artcraftersonline.com/ Danny is a member here and is good to the membership. Just in case you arent aware most regular drill chucks will not grip the bits smaller than 1/6". You will need a difernt chuck. I have found the availble chucks that is 3 parts don't work very well. I use a dremel 4 part chuck in a dremel tool to drill my small holes. It grips the drill bit nice and straight.

Very well done. IMHO, 15-20 hours for over 700 holes is not slow at all. That is about 5 or more cutting days for me as I only can cut for about 3 hours at one time or my control begins to go south. I will interupt cutting with frame making, painting and finishing to keep my sanity. I go through a lot of 2/0 spirals when cutting a many hole pattern like that one. Most break because I kink them while threading.

Been very busy the past few days and did not catch this post when I did a quick check in. Very interesting discussions. As for the 90-9-1 grouping Travis mentioned, I guess for now I'm in thst small 1% group until you all throw me out. Just a few day ago I was thinking somewhat along these same lines but more specifically in reguard to some of the very prolific pattern designers that have their work in the gallery but I have not, in the last 15 months or so that I have been a member, seen any recent postings or new additions from. Kinda makes you wonder where they went. Seems like many of our members are like me...yeah, I'll use the word...old. So, is SVV like the state of Florida, where one goes to ....?

Love the sign...top notch cutting and assembly. But....I hate clif hangers. Need background story. Who is the sign for? Customer? You? More info please....

Very well done. From the title I was expecting a portrait of the Musical Group!

Sled: I used aluminum T-track runners attached to the bottom of the sled in both tracks of the table saw. (The left on is visible in the second photo) You can get them on-line. Hardwood runners would also work as shown in the video. The aluminum T-tracks were the hardest to get perfectly aligned parelel to the blade with no "slop". I use a thin 80 carbide tooth blade intended for fine cutting. I'm not using the saw for more general construction cutting. Most of the saw use is in making my panels and frames, so I find this blade to work the best for me. Hardly ever cut any wood thicker than 3/4". Clamp: Not quite sure what you are asking. To clamp a panel my procedure is: After removing the top of the clamp I lay the backer on the lower portion of the clamp, I apply a nice thin uniform coatimg of Titebond Glue to the cut panel with a roller, I lay the cut panel on top of the backer, making sure it is all lined up, Being very careful, I slide the top of the clamp down the bolts to lay on top of the layered panel. The bolts prevent any side to side movement. The weight of the top helps hold the panel in place preventing any sliding of the panels while I spin the wing nuts on, to apply a uniform pressure across the panel. I will leave the clamp in place for at least an hour, but usually two or more hours, before removing the clamp. Hope this answers you questions.

I make my own frames for the portrait type panels I cut. Have been using a presice hand miter saw to cut my frames, but decided to see if I could not make a presice miter sled to make the task easier. I found a video on YouTube and decided it looked like its would work so I decided to build it. In principle it works but I had to make a few modifications to make it "more" usable. My bigest problem was attaching the runners to the sled so it had no play in alignment and getting it a true 45 degrees to the blade. After a lot of trial and error I was able to get them mounted true and now I get precice 45 degree cuts. What I like about this sled is that you don;t have to calculate the cut lengths adjusting for the rabet. Here is a couple of pics of my sled. Take note of how my sliding block clamp needed an extra piece of wood glued to the top of the square to make it hold better. I did not like his version. His sled was also too big for my small shop table saw, so I trimmed it down which resulted in me having to add the one piece back as you cab see in the pic. And, since most of my work is a cut flat panel affixed to a backer I was having difficulty applying even pressure accross the panel using my various clamps. I tried to use heavy boards on top and bottom to spread the pressure. However, the need to move the work around to apply the clamps often resulted in the panels sliding and not remaining square with each other. I decided I needed a clamping fixture that woul eliminate the problems I was having. Using some good grade 3/4" thk plywood, some poplar 1" square dowels and some 1/4-20 bolts, flat washers and wing nuts, this is what I came up with. The cross dowels are epoxyed to the plywood and the bolts and washers are epoxyed in place. Only the wing nuts are loose. The whole thing is quite heavy but makes clamping the flat panels, without fear of them sliding out of place, very easy. Hope this might help someone.

That is just a great looking box. Great fretwork cutting and I love that you mitered the vertical side wall joints. top and bottom very nicely detailed.

They were much better together than apart. Great find on both the wood and poster. Very well done...nice cutting!

Very nice. Thanks Jim for the Pattern. Will definately be on my to do list.

Just plain beautiful. They will be cherished.

If there was (a lot) more contrast between the pattern and the bacground, I would like the oval as a wall hanging plaque. However that being said if a kick stand was added and a banding/frame added to hide the exposed plywood edges - like I did your Dolphins -, I would like the square/round for table top standing. So, there is no real "like one better that the other". It really depends on how it is finished and where and how it will be displayed. Since my Lady is a Hummingbird lover, I will probably have to get both of these patterns and make one of each for her to add to her collection.

Beautiful work. Very nice spiral blade cutting.

Nicely done.

I converted this decal pattern I found on-line, called “Animals Upon Animals” by Peter Goes, to a 10” diameter scrollable pattern. His work is referred to as Yugen Kombucha Art and is associated with Yugen Kombucha, an organic fermented tea drink, skillfully brewed with powerful herbs and fresh pure juice to create wildly inspiring flavors. I actually had to add the perimeter circle border to allow many of the parts to connect as well as adding many bridges. I cut the pattern in 1/8” BB Ply and had to take a few liberties because my blade was larger than some of the details, but I think I did justice to the original Art. I used a Pegas #2/0 spiral blade for all the interior cutting and only use a Pegas #3 MGT R blade to cut the outer perimeter. The cut panel is affixed to an octagon 1/4” thick BB Ply backer painted flat black having a 12” dimension from flat to flat. I was unhappy with the appearance of the un-stained BB Ply cut panel and decided to stain it a deep Minwax Barn Red to create better contrast. Of course, if there is an octagon backer, the frame must be an octagon also. I used my usual wood choice, 1 3/4” wide poplar, but added a profile using a frame making router bit. Glue squeeze out at the many joints is very difficult to prevent, and sanding the frame at the joints to remove the glue was very difficult because of the profile. For regular flat frames I always tape the corner to prevent the glue from getting on the surface, but the profile made that impracticable….I have to find a better way. I protected the panel with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. I stained the frame Minwax Sadona Red and finished it with clear gloss spray Polyurethane.

Very nice, well cut. However, just wish the dark lettering of the word "TIME" wasn't right in line with the dark grain streak in the cut panel. Makes it a little dificult to read.

I agaree with ben2008...very cute and well done.

Very nicly done. Might consider prarie green(ish). The viewing angle is down not up.

About 2 1/2 hours (147 miles) East up I-4 in Ormond Beach.

Making it down here to FL just in time for the Hot weather. By next weekend it is suppose to rain for about a week straight. Welcome!!

A french cleat will not allow the shelf to mount flush with the wall unless the cleat can be recessed into the backer.

I like it a lot. Very well done. From what I see, you did not use a backer behind the cut panel. A contrasting backer would make the cutting read better and would provide you with a way to make a hanger system. Two small "key holes" could be located in the backer behind solid areas of the cut panel which would allow the shelf to hang flush to the wall using small brads with heads. I made a small business card holder with a similar vertical cut panel with out a backer. I simply drilled two very small hole in the vertical panel and use small brass brads to mount onto the wall. The heads of the brass brads are visable but they look OK for what I use it for.