FrankEV

Which/who's pattern? Anything different?

A Sue May Pattern. Cut from a Walnut 5/32 solid core ply panel and mounted on a 1/4x12X18 Birch backer. the Walnut was stained with Minwax Dark Walnut to improve contrast. The backer was stained with Minwax Natural. The assembled panel was finisshed with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Lacquer. The cut was done with Pegas #0 spiral blades. The Frame is a smple 1 3/4" wide Walnut which was also stained with Minwax Dark Walnut to enhance the color and finished with multiple coats of Minwax Satin Wipe-on Poly. Edit 5/11/2021: Just a little added information and rational. When I do a pattern like this that is applied on top of a backer so the image is raised, I'm very careful to make sure all the cut edges are stained as well to match. If left unstained, the cut edges are very noticable and a big distraction to the viewer. In addition, by making sure the cut edges are stained, the fact that the panel is plywood is not as apparent, again making the image much more attractive to the viewer. Also, it may be just me, but I realy like the presentation in a Frame rather then, how many would make it, as an unframed plaque. IMO, I think it is much more elegant. Thanks to all who have made such positive comments.

I built a panel cutting sled, but I find just using my tape measure and the table saw rip fence,I can cut my panels more accurately than with the sled. A cross cut sled is great for accurate/square cross cuts for doing big wood projects. For doing frames and the occasional need for some boards trimmed to length, my precision aftermarket T-slot tee with a wide board attached works just fine.

I totally agree with what you are suggesting. I don't expect to be able to cool the shop down a lot, but if It keeps it from being untolerable and reduces the humidity a little, it will be worth it. I had already consider the insulation on the under side of the roof if I find I really need it. There is very little exposed wall as I covered most with plywood in order to hang tools, shelves, etc. Also, the shed sits below a shade tree and is located in the space between the two adjacent houses, and does not get direct sun until late morning and during mid day. I don't ususlly work durring those hours anyway. I may not be a Mexican, but that is my siesta time.

Install a chair lift...cheaper than building a new outdoor groundlevel shop .

We get a few weeks of "cool" temps (low to mid 40's) during the winter which makes it a little uncomfortable to work, but I found a small heater designed for a work shop area that will quickly take the chill off when needed. So now I have the best of both times.

There is screen on the inside of the vents...so no wasps have gotten in yet. I get wasp nests up under the gable overhang on my house but they havn't found my shed yet.

This is just FYI. As I have mentioned more than once, my shop is a small 8X14 Resin Shed I purchased through Lowes. During the summer last year I could only work for a few hours, very early in the morning, before the temps here in Central Florida reached the high 90's and the sweat would be running down my brow and into my eyes. I had gone to Lowes yesterday to pick up a few thing I needed and as I was walking out I pased a Stack of GE small room AC units. The smallest is 5000 BTU intended for a 150 SF room. My Shop is only 112 SF...Perfect. Price $159...not terrible. Military discout kept it under $160 after sales tax. After going home and checkiing on the dimensions of the unit and the space I had in my gable end wall (the only feasible location) I went back ane purchased one. Today I installed the unit. I don't have a window so I had to make a cased opening just the correct size to fit the unit. I first made a frame to varify it was correct for the unit and then use it to mark out the openening in the wall. My jig saw made quick work of the resin wall, just above the metal header for the doors. I cased the opeing on both sides and fixed it with some screws into the metal header. The frame in place is more than strong enough to replace the cut out wall section. I slid the unit into the opening and, WALA, everything fit nicely and now is working fine. I know the power in my shop is fed from only one 20 AMP breaker circuit in my main panel. Was concerned that the AC would overload the circuit if it was on with my router or dust collector. I'm happy to report I have no problems operating those three heaviest draw items as the same time. However, I will probably turn the AC unit off when I operate the Router station with the dust collector running to make sure no overloads. Any way, maybe I will be able to work in the shop more each day with out worring about heat exhaustion . Inside Outside

Both are nice, but do agree the one on the right is a little more pleasent to look at. More delicate, but I'm not sure removing the chimney completely is the best way. Did you fix the problem with the top being loose. The ring makes it inviting to think it could be hung. I think I probably could come up with a way to make the bottom removable for replaceing the candle . Then the top could be fixed/glued to the top of the walls so it could be hung. BTW, the workmanship is well done.

Great job...guarenteed to be a hit. Love the flag as a backer. Are they going to be prizes or auction Items?

I'm going to download and add these great patterns to my to do list. However, I'm swamped with projects at the moment and Memorial Day is comming fast. So, for now, I will just plan to join you and make a donation to The Highground, a Veteran's Memorial. Thandk you, certainly seems like a good thing to do.

See my post above.

Check out https://www.artcraftersonline.com/ Danny is a member here and is good to the membership. Just in case you arent aware most regular drill chucks will not grip the bits smaller than 1/6". You will need a difernt chuck. I have found the availble chucks that is 3 parts don't work very well. I use a dremel 4 part chuck in a dremel tool to drill my small holes. It grips the drill bit nice and straight.

Very well done. IMHO, 15-20 hours for over 700 holes is not slow at all. That is about 5 or more cutting days for me as I only can cut for about 3 hours at one time or my control begins to go south. I will interupt cutting with frame making, painting and finishing to keep my sanity. I go through a lot of 2/0 spirals when cutting a many hole pattern like that one. Most break because I kink them while threading.

Been very busy the past few days and did not catch this post when I did a quick check in. Very interesting discussions. As for the 90-9-1 grouping Travis mentioned, I guess for now I'm in thst small 1% group until you all throw me out. Just a few day ago I was thinking somewhat along these same lines but more specifically in reguard to some of the very prolific pattern designers that have their work in the gallery but I have not, in the last 15 months or so that I have been a member, seen any recent postings or new additions from. Kinda makes you wonder where they went. Seems like many of our members are like me...yeah, I'll use the word...old. So, is SVV like the state of Florida, where one goes to ....?

Love the sign...top notch cutting and assembly. But....I hate clif hangers. Need background story. Who is the sign for? Customer? You? More info please....

Very well done. From the title I was expecting a portrait of the Musical Group!

Sled: I used aluminum T-track runners attached to the bottom of the sled in both tracks of the table saw. (The left on is visible in the second photo) You can get them on-line. Hardwood runners would also work as shown in the video. The aluminum T-tracks were the hardest to get perfectly aligned parelel to the blade with no "slop". I use a thin 80 carbide tooth blade intended for fine cutting. I'm not using the saw for more general construction cutting. Most of the saw use is in making my panels and frames, so I find this blade to work the best for me. Hardly ever cut any wood thicker than 3/4". Clamp: Not quite sure what you are asking. To clamp a panel my procedure is: After removing the top of the clamp I lay the backer on the lower portion of the clamp, I apply a nice thin uniform coatimg of Titebond Glue to the cut panel with a roller, I lay the cut panel on top of the backer, making sure it is all lined up, Being very careful, I slide the top of the clamp down the bolts to lay on top of the layered panel. The bolts prevent any side to side movement. The weight of the top helps hold the panel in place preventing any sliding of the panels while I spin the wing nuts on, to apply a uniform pressure across the panel. I will leave the clamp in place for at least an hour, but usually two or more hours, before removing the clamp. Hope this answers you questions.

I make my own frames for the portrait type panels I cut. Have been using a presice hand miter saw to cut my frames, but decided to see if I could not make a presice miter sled to make the task easier. I found a video on YouTube and decided it looked like its would work so I decided to build it. In principle it works but I had to make a few modifications to make it "more" usable. My bigest problem was attaching the runners to the sled so it had no play in alignment and getting it a true 45 degrees to the blade. After a lot of trial and error I was able to get them mounted true and now I get precice 45 degree cuts. What I like about this sled is that you don;t have to calculate the cut lengths adjusting for the rabet. Here is a couple of pics of my sled. Take note of how my sliding block clamp needed an extra piece of wood glued to the top of the square to make it hold better. I did not like his version. His sled was also too big for my small shop table saw, so I trimmed it down which resulted in me having to add the one piece back as you cab see in the pic. And, since most of my work is a cut flat panel affixed to a backer I was having difficulty applying even pressure accross the panel using my various clamps. I tried to use heavy boards on top and bottom to spread the pressure. However, the need to move the work around to apply the clamps often resulted in the panels sliding and not remaining square with each other. I decided I needed a clamping fixture that woul eliminate the problems I was having. Using some good grade 3/4" thk plywood, some poplar 1" square dowels and some 1/4-20 bolts, flat washers and wing nuts, this is what I came up with. The cross dowels are epoxyed to the plywood and the bolts and washers are epoxyed in place. Only the wing nuts are loose. The whole thing is quite heavy but makes clamping the flat panels, without fear of them sliding out of place, very easy. Hope this might help someone.

That is just a great looking box. Great fretwork cutting and I love that you mitered the vertical side wall joints. top and bottom very nicely detailed.

They were much better together than apart. Great find on both the wood and poster. Very well done...nice cutting!

Very nice. Thanks Jim for the Pattern. Will definately be on my to do list.

Just plain beautiful. They will be cherished.

If there was (a lot) more contrast between the pattern and the bacground, I would like the oval as a wall hanging plaque. However that being said if a kick stand was added and a banding/frame added to hide the exposed plywood edges - like I did your Dolphins -, I would like the square/round for table top standing. So, there is no real "like one better that the other". It really depends on how it is finished and where and how it will be displayed. Since my Lady is a Hummingbird lover, I will probably have to get both of these patterns and make one of each for her to add to her collection.

Beautiful work. Very nice spiral blade cutting.