FrankEV

I designed the lamp. I created the Scroll saw pattern although I did steal the actual Seahorse part from a pattern I had purchased. PM me if you want the pattern.

Outstanding. Has a wonderful sculptured look. Would be a great mantle piece.

Yep, as long as I make the same basic one over and over.

Welcome to the SVV. Lots of good people on here and all willing to help when needed...just ask. Post up pics of your work under Bragging Rights and get lots of feedback.

I wear HA's also. Mine are not BT compatable but do stream our TV sound via a transmitter plugged into the TV. However, my HA's are programable and have 3 different setups. One if for streaming the TV sound, a second is normal sound situations and the third is for noisy situations such as crowded places. When I'm in the shop I use this third setting and can listen to my "Alexa" while cutting or working. Yes the router, bench sander and table saw are loud and will block out the music but those noises are very short lived. When scrolling I can still hear the music while cutting. This setting is like what a normal heearing person would hear with ear plugs.

This Night Lamp is made from solid Red Oak, is 12” high overall, the base and top are 5 1/2” square made from 1/2” thick material, and the lamp body is 4 1/2” square by 10” high made from 1/4" thick material. The body side walls were stack cut and cut using Pegas #0 spiral blades. The top is loose for bulb replacement purposes. The Red Oak was enhanced and finished with multiple coats of a combination of Minwax Red Oak Stain and Minwax Satin Wipe-On Poly. The Clear blue Plexiglas was frosted by using spray adhesive to affix sheets of clear velum film to the inside surface of the Plexiglas. The Electrical components include a premade 6’ lamp cord with an inline rocker switch, a threaded nipple w/nuts, a nipple mounted candelabra bulb socket base and a round 25 watt bulb. I created the Lamp body Seahorse Pattern to supplement my collection of nautical themed projects I’m putting together. The construction of this lamp is almost identical to the Hummingbird Lamp I made for my Lady a while back, but this time it went together better because I knew what I was doing. Also, this time all the chamfers and the body corner joint bevel cuts were completed on the Router table. This pic shows the bottom of the top with a gluded on piece of 1/4 Oak Ply that acts as a retainer to keep the top in place. A similar piece of 1/4" Oak ply was glused to the base to provise a greater gluing surface for the lamp body attachnemt to the base. This view also shows the installed velum coated Plexiglas difuser.

Very nice!

Well done...but we know you did not center the chevron and won't let you forget it!!! #LBKU15C = ???????

All well done. Glad to hear they are a good selling product.

Very well cut! Doing a great job on the new Pegas saw. Me, I do not like cutting block font like that.

Very well done.

Great cutting.

Danj84 above said it all very well. To me using spirals is like moving a puck around on a Wigi board. Both hands move the work around and your eyes (and brain) controls your hands so the blade follows the cut line. You can't "think" follow the line. After a lot of practice, you just do it trying not to stop along the way. Restarting can often mean a little (sometimes big) wiggle will ocur. I personally find I don't care to cut straight up/away or down/toward me. I'm almost always following the line off a little from true vertical. The shape of the cut out and its location in the panel will dictate which direction you cut. For me, I always try to cut in a counterclockwise route around to cut. My brain dosn't like going clockwise for some reason. And like Danj84, I try to cut on the waste side of the line. It is easy to trim/shave off some material to get to the line, but as you know you can't put material back.

I have no argument about the cutting, it is well done, and if that is your/anyones belief, OK. I'm just not sure it is appropriate to envoke it in this kind of forum...kinda like politics..to me a no no. However I must state something about the words used in the quote. I firmly believe there is NO SUCH THING as "Right" (or "Wrong") in a pure morality sense. Right and wrong are only concepts defined by laws (supposedly for the good of the people) and/or long standing and varying cultures from all over. All of which the people have created in an attempt to define what their beiefs teach. I do believe there is a thing called "Good", which I can accept as a morality virtue. Its counterpart, often reffered to as "Evil" is simply the absence of Good. Sort of like Heat and Cold. We know sicentifically that there is really no such thing as cold as it is only the absence of Heat. This may be a subject for discussion at another place and time...but probably not on this site! With that being said, I - only me - do not find the quote to have any basis in truism or fact and my belief has abolutely nothing to do with religion or politics. Please, lets keep this forum strickly about Scroll work!

Lower the tension and run at a slower speed. On my Pegas, the speed knob tends to increase the speed all by itself over a couple hours of cutting. If I'm not paying attention, as the speed increases, the blads will start to break just like what yours is doing. Too much tension is also a major culpret. Back it down so you only need a light press on the lever to lock the tension after clamping the blade. I tend to use small blades and if I don't kink the blade when threading, they will last a long time. But when the speed increases or the tension is too high, they will break after only a few cuts.

You are correct about the fuzzies. I have learned to ignore them. Some amount of clean up of fuzzies is necessary on all cuts. I have a three step process for removing the fuzzies. First I use a sanding mop (the one from the UK that foxfold recommended) to remove all the very loose stuff from the back of the panel. I will do this often during the cutting to prevent a build up under the panel that interferes with smooth sliding of the panel on the table. Second, after the cut is done and the sanding mop has done its job, I actually use my palm sander with 220 grit paper on the back side. Yeah, have to be careful with delicate areas, but I really haven't had much problem as long a I keep the sander flat. This removes a lot of the fuzzies and only takes a few seconds. Third, to get any and all fuzzies left behind, especially in those small/narrow/sharp pointy areas, I use a butane torch. Poof - as long as you are quick and carefull - they are gone. Use the spirals more, and soon you won't want to use a regular blade much any more. I only go to a #3 or #5 Pegas mgt R blade when I cut the long straight/oval/circular lines of a frame area that is part of the pattern.

Very, very nice. Looking at the Pic, looks like all solid Walnut.. is that correct?. I just ordered some 1/4 and 1/8 material in Walnut and Maple and can appreciate the cost of the wood that you put into that clock plus the movement. What is you plans for it? Is it a keeper or is it on the market?

You can make a cupped board flat with a planer if you do it correctly and if it is not toooo severely cupped. You need to only take a very ligt cut with each pass throught the planer flipping the board betwee each pass. It does not remove the cup, it will simply thin the board to a uniform thickness dimension. Since the board is already cupped it will not cup any more. I've used this method to make flat many rough sawn boards that are cupped right out of the drying kiln. Most often you can get true 3/4" thick boards from rough sawn 5/4, or sometimes 4/4, material. Yep...lots of waste. This method is what commercial lumber mills use, only their planers are 2 sided and it only requires one pass to reach the desired milled thickness.

Learning to use spiral blades is intiminating to most, but once they are mastered they become the "go-to" blade for most work. I have found that even on projects that would be easily completed with a standard type blade I will use a spiral. With me it ws all about not looking on adjscent parrallel cut areas. There is a tendency for the blade to go where you look and it would always go toward the adjacent cut area. Now I can ignore the adjacent cut area and the blade will stay on the line I'm cutting. Since I do most of my work on 1/8" thick ply of various types, I find I even tend to predomintly use the very small #2/0 spiral blades so I can get nice pointy/sharp intersections and corners.

When this topic was rasied a while back in another post, I was able to order a 6 pack of the 16.75 oz 3M Super 77 Multi-Purpose Sparay Adheasive -77-24 at somewhere around $7 a can. I can't find where I ordered it from but in looking I found you can order it from Home Depot for $10.27/can. Amazon price is over $23/can and you must buy two. Here is a PDF of the HD page: 3M 16.75 oz. Super 77 Multi-Purpose Spray Adhesive-77-24 - The Home Depot.pdf

Extreamly nice cutting of the font.

Nicely done! But oh, aren't those whiskers a bugger to do? H.B. has some very interesting and unique patterns!

Poplar is a great relatively inexpensive wood that is OK for scroling, but in itself it is not a very pretty wood. The wood comes in all sorts of colors as part of the grain. Yelow/green/brown/purple can often be seen in the same board. The colors will fade and I don't think any finish will prevent it from hapening, but yopu can try. I might suggest clear lacquer. The lacquer will not restrict scrolling in any way, and is eaily sanded after cutting and hten recoated with lacquer with out being noticable. Althougnj I have cut a fretwork piece from poplar I mainly use it for making frames. Polar takes paint very well and will take stain OK but the grain can be a big detraction. That is why I search for pieces that have very little grain color. I feel very lucky when I find one board out of 10 or more that has very little colored grain.

You are correct...dont know him. However, the likeness in the cutting is fabulous. Your rouges gallery is ever expanding!

Very nice spiral blade cutting.