FrankEV

Very nice. Your painting skills far outshine mine! Glue some aquariam pebbles to the base and it would look like is was really in the sea with that appropriate blue background.

Kinda thought that was what you were saying. Here we would use a more demonstrative word like "Crap" or "Sh..". Thanks

KInda think it looks like sombody I know You should find a zoo or the like where they might be willing to display it for you. Great cutting job, BTW.

OK Brenda, help me out. Looked up toffee and Google says it is a hard candy. Please explain...a british meaning I presume us Yanks wouldn't understand.

OK, tried to do something different. Was looking to do something that would look good in a beach house here on the East Coast of Florida. The pattern was pieced to gether from a number of patterns and and silhouettes, and some hand drawn additions. Top and bottom layer is 1/8" BB plywood. Most cuts made with a #1 Sharktooth reverse blade. The top board was partially stained with an Expesso stain and the collored areas done with acrylic craft paints. I don't pretend to be an artist and the painting took forever as I found it was necessary to paint the vertical cut edges as the unpainted edges looked terrible. This was one pain in the.... Touch upafter touch up was necessary as I do not have steady hands and I would miss spots. Hanging on a wall and viewed from 10 feet or so, it is not too bad, but up close...not so much. Good thing it is cartoonish and not meant to be serious art. I think the White frame I picked uo at Hobby Lobby helped a lot.

As a newbie, I am probably doing something that is NOT correct or proper technique, so take this with a grain of salt. When I have had a similar situation where the cut out is not much bigger than the blade access hole and close to another cut out area, I don't try to cut it out by following the line. I will eat away the material easing up to the pattern line with the tooth edge of the blade, actually gently moving the work side to side. I have found that little squares like what you have there is easy to do this way. You do need to use a very gentle touch when pushing the work into the blade. Small cut outs like that are easy to clean up afterwards with needle flles.

I know you want to get the project done when nearing the end...that is human nature. However, seriously, you really need to take a break and not push to finish. As stated previously, it is easy to lose concentration, especially if you have been at it for a while. Been there done that. Just my 2 penny's.

Nice work. I'm curious, looking at the pic of the "L" how big was the bit you used to drill a hole for the blade and where did you drill it so it doesn't show along the edge of the cut somewhere? I ordered a pin chuck for my drill as it wont close down enought to tighten on my very small bits. I'm guessing you use a bit that is no larger than the blade kerf itself? Thanks

NICE WORK. I enjoy seeing the projects that people do. However, I wish all would include some info to go along with the pic. In this case: What was the material? How did you get the pink coloring? What is it...a wall plaque? Is there a backer? Is it going to be framed? As a newbie, details are very important to me. Thanks for understanding.

I like the foot switch. I have a high stool and short legs so I made a raised support for the switch. Instant on and off is easier with a foot switch than trying to find the small togggle switch on the saw. I tend to stop the saw whenever I have to reposition or rotate the work. Also, you can stop cutting REAL quick if when the blade starts to lift the work that is not held down well (Ask me how I know). If you have one try it, you just might find you like it. I regard to sprial blades. I find the cut/kerf is very wide even when using the 2/0. For fine details that have straignt lines, or lines that intersect at a sharp inside or ouside point, I prefer to use a straight blade. Long curves are also neater with a straight blade for me. I will be practicing more with spiral baldes as time goes by. I was happy how these patterns came out and, even though I did follow the lines fairly well, when you look closely at the cut it is not smooth. I guess you never see it if you don't look real close. I have frequently used the phrase for many things I have made or built: "You will never see it from Brooklyn".

I suspect these Eagle plaques have been done by others herein many times. The patterns are by Charles Dearing and were obtained from Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts at ScrollSawer.com. It is a two pattern set including the Soaring and Diving Eagle. I reduced the size of the Soaring Eagle pattern about 10% so the cut would fit an 11”x14” panel. The Diving Eagle fit on the 11”x14” panel without any modification. It was recommended to use 1/8” thick BB, but I chose use 5/32“ thick solid core Maple plywood for the top layer and also used 5/32” thick solid core Walnut Plywood as a backer stained darker with Walnut stain. I think the color contrast works well. I mounted the panels in rather expensive pre-made frames I got at Hobby Lobby. The Panels arefit loose in the frames and held in place with framing points. This was my first attempt at using exclusively spiral blades. The patterns lent themselves to the use of spiral blades since there are no straight lines and “feathers” are not that neat anyway. I used #2/0 and #0 Sharktooth blades. I did surprise myself though, finding I was able to follow the pattern lines fairly well after just a short learning curve, first on scrap wood and then on the panels themselves. I did break a lot of blades in the beginning, but they lasted longer toward the end of the cutting session. I was learning just how much pressure I needed to apply to move the piece without breaking the blade. I also learned that when the wood starts to lift while cutting and you want to stop…you got to lift your foot off the foot switch. But that’s another story. The frame sizes are identical.

I am not doing projects specifically with an intent to sell, but If I'm going to spend the eime and associated cost of materials, I'm hopeing others will like what I do...whether received as a gift or purchased from me. So my projects have that in mind. Although I do enjoy the effort, solice, and the help to stay sane in this time of total insanity...I'm definately NOT scrolling to make firewood.

Absolutely beautiful work. Seems a shame you decided to use scrap ply rather than a nice piece of solid wood. I try to think of what I want a finish project to look like before ever selecting the wood for cutting and I like to think about the size and kind of frame I would want to use. Many, many years ago my Dad, rest his soul, used to do marketry and made beautiful pictures just by selecting the right pieces of wood vaneers for color and grain. I attempt to think about the whole project including looking carfefully at the grain of the wood I chose to cut. It can make a big difference in the beauty of the finish project.

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I have been using inexpensive frames from Walmart also. I get rid of the glass and strip all the do dads off the back. Then usually glue the panel into the frame. This is OK, depending on the piece. Recently I have since gone to Hobby Loby and Michaels and looked in their custom framing section. Much toooooooooo costly to have them make a frame, but they do sell some nice premade frames in a veriety of sizes and I think the are worth the money for a great looking piece of work like you have done. Especially if it is going to be a gift for someone special. I too, am struggleing with the idea of making my own frames but it is nearly impossible to purchase true Frame Moulding in stick form and what I did find was VERY costly. Even simple frames from hardwood flat stock can wind up costing as much as buying a premade fame. Up to now I have been keeping my projet panel sizes to suit standard Photograph sizes, basically 8x10 and 11x14, but I did note Hobby Lobby has some unusual sizes including 12x16, 10x13 and 11x17. They even have larger sizes for posters and such. My shop is so small now that It is not even worth me getting a good miter saw so I will have to build my own frames with hand tools for now, for the basic projects. I'll spend a few extra dollars for a nice frame when the project demands it.

I have done exactly the same type of frame using the same 3/4 corner moulding. However, I did not create the gap like you did. I think that is a better approach then my fitting the frame tight to the panel. Looking at the pic closely do I see a little gap a the the bottom right hand corner miter? I know my corners were not as neat as they could have been because I was just using hand tools. Unfortunately all my frame making tools and jigs were left behind when I moved from NC to Florida. Good clean miters are very difficult to make. BTW, love the plaque.

To think scrolling is considered an ART, I say nope...Just good mechanical skills. What you have created is true ART in the strictest sence of the meaning. Aboslutely beautiful. Your customer should be VERY VERY happy.

Welcome Nick, Just a few words of advice: "Cheap" usually winds up to be much more expensive in the long run and "Used" ususally means worn and has seen better days (parts that may not be available). IMHO, there is no such thing as a cheap tool of any kind that is worh the money you pay for it. Your wallet has to be your guide, but I firmly advise to purchase the BEST saw you can afford and buy new. I just jumped from a $350 18" Porter Cable that I bought in Lowes to a 21" Pegas that sells in the $800 range. The Pegas is a top of the line saw and if you ask me, I will tell you it is definately worth the price. That is an example of Cheap be more expensive in the long run...I did not do my do diligence and research, so shame on me. That all being said, if you are not sure you really want to get heavily involved in scrolling, you should find the least expensive used saw you can find to try it out (pawn shops are a good place to look for an inexpensive machine). If you find scrolling is not your thing, then not much lost. However, if you find you like it then go for a top of the line machine! Too bad you are not closer to me, I would let you have the PC for a very good price. PA is just a little to far for a quick get together.

Welcome from the East Coast of Central Florida. I know a lot of you from north of the border think Florida is just a suburb of Canada and I think you are right from the number of Canadian license plates we see especialy on the Winter.. Enjoy your new found home here on SSV and show us some work when you get a chance. Don't forget to give all the details (i.e.; Who's pattern, what wood type and thickness, what blades did you use, finish process, etc.) with your pics also.

Leonard Welcome from East Coast of Central Florida, USA. Hope you come out of the scrolling dungeon often and tell your wife thank you. I'm a newbie also and just joined the SSV a short time ago. Got to say, nice bunch of people who are always ready to help, offer advice, and offer many complements to help boost our newbie egos. Your work looks great. I have actually done the same dragon but in the rectanular board. I have the Bee pattern but have not gotten around to doing it yet. Also, absolutely love the colored background on the Wolf. BUT, where is the Shamrock, a Leprechaun or Shillalagy? BTW, what Saw are you using? And, when posting pics of your work it's great to have a little info to go along with it. (i.e.; Whos pattern, Wood kind and thickness, Blades used, Finish process, etc.) Makes good reading and helps otrer newbies like me.

I like that a lot. Bet they will like it too.

Bike? Peddle or MC? If MC, what are you riding? Yep, the loop up here is nice, but when you can ride it every day if you want it can get boring and I'm always looking for other nice rides.

They look great but I'm curious, what is wrong with double stick tape? I recently cut a dragon vase where all four sides was exactly the same. Stacked four pieces of 1/4" thick solid walnut using double stick tape. Just tiny pieces of tape in the scrap area between layers. The four panels came out identical with out hardly any deburring or sanding needed. Still a newbie, but Iwould have thought this would be the most appropriate way of holding layers together.

Ormond Beach. I looked you up in the membermap and see you are in Deltona. I frequently ride the loop along Lakeshore drive on my MC after catching breakfast at the Osteen Dinner. You can see my location there also.

You, and all, are making me feel TOOOOOOOO good. I know I jumped to a Pegas real quick, and although I do have some wood working experience, I have only been scroling for a few months now. I'm no Master Scroller, that is for sure. I'm just a newbie trying to do the best I can. Thanks, Thanks, Thanks