FrankEV

I like the foot switch. I have a high stool and short legs so I made a raised support for the switch. Instant on and off is easier with a foot switch than trying to find the small togggle switch on the saw. I tend to stop the saw whenever I have to reposition or rotate the work. Also, you can stop cutting REAL quick if when the blade starts to lift the work that is not held down well (Ask me how I know). If you have one try it, you just might find you like it. I regard to sprial blades. I find the cut/kerf is very wide even when using the 2/0. For fine details that have straignt lines, or lines that intersect at a sharp inside or ouside point, I prefer to use a straight blade. Long curves are also neater with a straight blade for me. I will be practicing more with spiral baldes as time goes by. I was happy how these patterns came out and, even though I did follow the lines fairly well, when you look closely at the cut it is not smooth. I guess you never see it if you don't look real close. I have frequently used the phrase for many things I have made or built: "You will never see it from Brooklyn".

I suspect these Eagle plaques have been done by others herein many times. The patterns are by Charles Dearing and were obtained from Scroll Saw Woodworking and Crafts at ScrollSawer.com. It is a two pattern set including the Soaring and Diving Eagle. I reduced the size of the Soaring Eagle pattern about 10% so the cut would fit an 11”x14” panel. The Diving Eagle fit on the 11”x14” panel without any modification. It was recommended to use 1/8” thick BB, but I chose use 5/32“ thick solid core Maple plywood for the top layer and also used 5/32” thick solid core Walnut Plywood as a backer stained darker with Walnut stain. I think the color contrast works well. I mounted the panels in rather expensive pre-made frames I got at Hobby Lobby. The Panels arefit loose in the frames and held in place with framing points. This was my first attempt at using exclusively spiral blades. The patterns lent themselves to the use of spiral blades since there are no straight lines and “feathers” are not that neat anyway. I used #2/0 and #0 Sharktooth blades. I did surprise myself though, finding I was able to follow the pattern lines fairly well after just a short learning curve, first on scrap wood and then on the panels themselves. I did break a lot of blades in the beginning, but they lasted longer toward the end of the cutting session. I was learning just how much pressure I needed to apply to move the piece without breaking the blade. I also learned that when the wood starts to lift while cutting and you want to stop…you got to lift your foot off the foot switch. But that’s another story. The frame sizes are identical.

I am not doing projects specifically with an intent to sell, but If I'm going to spend the eime and associated cost of materials, I'm hopeing others will like what I do...whether received as a gift or purchased from me. So my projects have that in mind. Although I do enjoy the effort, solice, and the help to stay sane in this time of total insanity...I'm definately NOT scrolling to make firewood.

Absolutely beautiful work. Seems a shame you decided to use scrap ply rather than a nice piece of solid wood. I try to think of what I want a finish project to look like before ever selecting the wood for cutting and I like to think about the size and kind of frame I would want to use. Many, many years ago my Dad, rest his soul, used to do marketry and made beautiful pictures just by selecting the right pieces of wood vaneers for color and grain. I attempt to think about the whole project including looking carfefully at the grain of the wood I chose to cut. It can make a big difference in the beauty of the finish project.

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I have been using inexpensive frames from Walmart also. I get rid of the glass and strip all the do dads off the back. Then usually glue the panel into the frame. This is OK, depending on the piece. Recently I have since gone to Hobby Loby and Michaels and looked in their custom framing section. Much toooooooooo costly to have them make a frame, but they do sell some nice premade frames in a veriety of sizes and I think the are worth the money for a great looking piece of work like you have done. Especially if it is going to be a gift for someone special. I too, am struggleing with the idea of making my own frames but it is nearly impossible to purchase true Frame Moulding in stick form and what I did find was VERY costly. Even simple frames from hardwood flat stock can wind up costing as much as buying a premade fame. Up to now I have been keeping my projet panel sizes to suit standard Photograph sizes, basically 8x10 and 11x14, but I did note Hobby Lobby has some unusual sizes including 12x16, 10x13 and 11x17. They even have larger sizes for posters and such. My shop is so small now that It is not even worth me getting a good miter saw so I will have to build my own frames with hand tools for now, for the basic projects. I'll spend a few extra dollars for a nice frame when the project demands it.

I have done exactly the same type of frame using the same 3/4 corner moulding. However, I did not create the gap like you did. I think that is a better approach then my fitting the frame tight to the panel. Looking at the pic closely do I see a little gap a the the bottom right hand corner miter? I know my corners were not as neat as they could have been because I was just using hand tools. Unfortunately all my frame making tools and jigs were left behind when I moved from NC to Florida. Good clean miters are very difficult to make. BTW, love the plaque.

To think scrolling is considered an ART, I say nope...Just good mechanical skills. What you have created is true ART in the strictest sence of the meaning. Aboslutely beautiful. Your customer should be VERY VERY happy.

Welcome Nick, Just a few words of advice: "Cheap" usually winds up to be much more expensive in the long run and "Used" ususally means worn and has seen better days (parts that may not be available). IMHO, there is no such thing as a cheap tool of any kind that is worh the money you pay for it. Your wallet has to be your guide, but I firmly advise to purchase the BEST saw you can afford and buy new. I just jumped from a $350 18" Porter Cable that I bought in Lowes to a 21" Pegas that sells in the $800 range. The Pegas is a top of the line saw and if you ask me, I will tell you it is definately worth the price. That is an example of Cheap be more expensive in the long run...I did not do my do diligence and research, so shame on me. That all being said, if you are not sure you really want to get heavily involved in scrolling, you should find the least expensive used saw you can find to try it out (pawn shops are a good place to look for an inexpensive machine). If you find scrolling is not your thing, then not much lost. However, if you find you like it then go for a top of the line machine! Too bad you are not closer to me, I would let you have the PC for a very good price. PA is just a little to far for a quick get together.

Welcome from the East Coast of Central Florida. I know a lot of you from north of the border think Florida is just a suburb of Canada and I think you are right from the number of Canadian license plates we see especialy on the Winter.. Enjoy your new found home here on SSV and show us some work when you get a chance. Don't forget to give all the details (i.e.; Who's pattern, what wood type and thickness, what blades did you use, finish process, etc.) with your pics also.

Leonard Welcome from East Coast of Central Florida, USA. Hope you come out of the scrolling dungeon often and tell your wife thank you. I'm a newbie also and just joined the SSV a short time ago. Got to say, nice bunch of people who are always ready to help, offer advice, and offer many complements to help boost our newbie egos. Your work looks great. I have actually done the same dragon but in the rectanular board. I have the Bee pattern but have not gotten around to doing it yet. Also, absolutely love the colored background on the Wolf. BUT, where is the Shamrock, a Leprechaun or Shillalagy? BTW, what Saw are you using? And, when posting pics of your work it's great to have a little info to go along with it. (i.e.; Whos pattern, Wood kind and thickness, Blades used, Finish process, etc.) Makes good reading and helps otrer newbies like me.

I like that a lot. Bet they will like it too.

Bike? Peddle or MC? If MC, what are you riding? Yep, the loop up here is nice, but when you can ride it every day if you want it can get boring and I'm always looking for other nice rides.

They look great but I'm curious, what is wrong with double stick tape? I recently cut a dragon vase where all four sides was exactly the same. Stacked four pieces of 1/4" thick solid walnut using double stick tape. Just tiny pieces of tape in the scrap area between layers. The four panels came out identical with out hardly any deburring or sanding needed. Still a newbie, but Iwould have thought this would be the most appropriate way of holding layers together.

Ormond Beach. I looked you up in the membermap and see you are in Deltona. I frequently ride the loop along Lakeshore drive on my MC after catching breakfast at the Osteen Dinner. You can see my location there also.

You, and all, are making me feel TOOOOOOOO good. I know I jumped to a Pegas real quick, and although I do have some wood working experience, I have only been scroling for a few months now. I'm no Master Scroller, that is for sure. I'm just a newbie trying to do the best I can. Thanks, Thanks, Thanks

First I must give a big shout out and thank you to Foxfold for graciously sharing her Pattern. I modified the pattern slightly to format it to fit a standard 8x10 photograph frame. This was my first attempt at using 1/8" thk Baltic Birch plywood. Top and bottom layer is the same 1/8" thk BB plywood. The bottom layer is painted Black. Not wanting to copy Foxfold's project eactly, I decided to attempt to make the sene a little more dramatic by creating a moonlit sky. I actualy bleached the area for the moon and then attempted to fade the sky out to a darker edges using a micture of stain colors from natural to ebony. I think the effect came out fairly nice. The BB Plywood cut OK but the finished surface wood is quite stringy (for lack of a better word) and does not produce as clean a cut or sand up as nice as the Columbia Forest 5/32 and 1/4 purebond 12" X19" plywood project panels I have been using which I get shipped to my home from Home Depot. I purchased some 1/4 BB also and will have to give it a try. However, I'm leaning towards the Idea of using the BB mostly for backers. A better pic is needed. Needed to take the pic with natural light but it has been raining like crazy all day. .

Fist project completed on the Pegas. Mostly cut with a Pegas #1 modified geometry blade. Small block letters is not my strong skill, but I think these came out pretty good considering I still need more practice, but much better outcome on the new Pegas then I could do on the old Porter Cable. The Pattern from Steve Good's Scrawlsaw Workshop - Professional Beer Taster. It is going to be a Birthday present for my Son-in-law. The top layer is 5/32" solid core maple plywood over a piece of luan stained a dark walnut with his name cut out at the top and then over a bottom layer of the Solid core Maple plywood. Finished with many coats of lacquer and then permanently mounted in an inxpensive frame I got at Wallmart.

Just a follow up. 1. Although I found the air tube can be remounted to extend out to the right side, I did not leave it there, but put it back on the left side where it remains set in place and does not need to be reset each time the work is relocated and does not interfere with reaching thumb screw that holes the the blade. 2. I also purchased a magnetic mounted goose neck LED light that I mounted on the right side. This light is physically much larger than the little light that is on my Porter Cable but is very bright and creates that shadow of the blade that aides me seeing where the blade is along the pattern line. My depth precetion is compromised as I have monocular vision (I only see out of one eye at a time) and i found I could not determine exactly where the blade was, even with my 5X magnifier LED lamp, with out being able to reference the shadow. 3. As all the comments I received said remove the Hold Down and the plastic dust collector diafram so I decided to take that advice and have done so. Yep, operation and control is much better and the dust and small pieces of wood fall through preventing interference with the movement of the project. I sweep and vacuum the floor between projects anyway so all is good. Thanks for all who offered comments and suggestions, they were all very helpful and appreciated. Here a few pics of the way I have the saw set up and is working for me:

You are correct. Two screws hold the air hose and it can be rotated easily to the right side. I did this but decided to put it back on the left side as it intefered with releasing the blade to reposition the work. While on the left side it remains where it is set without needing to be repositioned each time.

I could probably search, but if you would be so kind...where do you get the magnetic sheet? Brand? Thickness? Any info that is needed? Thanks

I already took the front guard off and just left the hold down in place. This way it does not interfere with me. I have more problem with the air tube being on the left. I'm use to it being on the right, but I presume I will get used to it. Having the ability to lift the arm to change blades or change the blade to a new hole is probably the best part of this saw.

My new 21" Pegas Scroll Saw with Stand arrived yeasterday around 2PM and I had the stand assembled and the saw mounted and operating by about 3:30PM. My first impression was WOW this saw is great, well made including even the solid stand. Materialwise fit and finish is top of the line. Operationalwise, it runs smooth with a nice steady blade movement making cutting control much easier. I imediately jumped on a new, relatively simple project, cutting 1/4" solid core Maple Plywood. However the pattern does includes a number of words in about 3/4" high block font, resulting in a lot of really little areas to be cut out (Not my strong skill.). Well to my amazement, I'm doing a fairly good job with these letters on this saw...I'm happy. I have completed almost all of the letters, with only a few to finish, using a #1 Pegas Modified Geometry blade without breaking any yet. Again I'm happy. I have two comments that might be subjects for some suggestions or tips. 1. The Porter Cable saw I was using had a small very bright LED light on a goose neck that I could shine directly on the blade. For the price of the Pegas, I'm disapointed they did not include this feature. Even Though I do use a 5X lighted magnifying lamp, I liked the little spot light that when pointed on the blade a shadow was created that made it easy to see just where the blade was along the pattern line. My old eyes need all the help they can get. 2. The table work surface is smooth as the preverbial "babys behind". However, it is so smooth it seems to create a slight suction betwen the table and the wood, making it slightly difficult to move the wood smoothly. This is not being caused by the work hold down which I have set close but not touching the wood. I actually had to apply a coating of Pledge Furniture Polish to help it slide easier. Would like someting more permanently slipery but do not want to use any thing that would transfer to the wood. No work from this saw to brag about yet, but it won't be too long before this little project is finished and I can post a pic. All you Pegas Saw operators, please feel free to offer any suggestion , tips, comments, etc. Looking for anything that makes using this saw even easier/better. Thanks

A 18" Porter-Cable I purchased in Lowes a while ago. Hoping the Pegas makes it a little easier. The blade on the PC Jumps around a lot when not in a saw kerf. Makes starting a neat cut diffilcult. I have a bunch of MC patterns I've done, or plan to do, but this one provided a challenge I needed to improve my skill. Yeah, Skulls are not my cup of tea either, but made this as a gift for my son's birthday. He's a lot younger and I think he will like it. BTW, read your closing sentence and did not see the punctionuations. Was wondering why you were asking God to Bless Spirithorse? Thanks

My Daughter and Gradson both have Birthdays coming up in September and October. She owns a French Bulldog and he owns a Pug. Both were appropriate subjects for a scrollsaw birthday present gift. My Son-in-law also has his birthday in October and is a Beer lover, so I just started a project for him. My Son and Daughter-in-law also have Birthdays in October. He is an avid Motorcycle Rider and she is nuts about Dragonflys. So here are my gifts that I will be sending them in the coming months: