FrankEV

I love eagles also...great job.

The inability to sit for more tha an hour has certainly not done anything to mess with your cutting skills. May have taken a little longer to complete but it is very nice work. Hope thing get much better for you and your saw (no pun intended) time.

I'm by no means an expert, but from what I undersatnd there is BB ply and there is BB ply, and the two may not be the same quality. I'm not sure your sourse may be the quality that you may want to be using. I've been using BB Ply that come in 12"X24" panels without any cutting backer and I have not experienced any tear out top or bottom. I do get a lot of fuzzies, but between the sanding mop you reccomended and a small butane torch, I'm able to get rid of them after a cut. I do sand both sides of my panels before cutting. This mainly helps with strand pull out when removing the film (clear shelving liner I get from Walmart) that I use under the pattern. Also, after drilling the blade holes, I debur each hole on the backside with a dremel round head carving bit. Makes installing the blade much eaiser and eliminates blade causing tearout at the hole. Just some thoughts from this newbie.

I'm a relatively newbie and started out with a 18" Porter Cable, but became very unhappy with it as the blade jumped around a lot so I decided to upgrade. The 21" Pegas is a very good machine and used by many on here and is highly reccommended. E-mail Dennis Knappen (he one of us) at [email protected] for a price. He does VERY good by us. Don't forget to order the stand with it. It is good and solid. It took about a week to get mine as it ships by ground from PA and I'm in Florida. He has good prices on Pegas blades also. Dennis can get you a good magnifiying light and a foot switch also, if you don't have them....both are an absolute necessity. I'm confident you would be happy with a 21" Pegas. I know I am.

Like everyone else said: Looks Great. Unfortunately the Tablet hides that cute face. Nice scroll work.

This is a Russ Beard Marlin pattern that was slightly modified and resized to suit a standard 11x14 Frame and cut from 5/32" thk Maple solid core ply with a painted 1/8" thk BB ply backer. All cutting was done with Pegas #0 spiral blades Panel finished with multiple coats of clear lacquer. I made a simple Poplar frame stained with Minwax Early American and coated with clear satin polyurethane. If you look close you might see that the backer is painted black behind the Marlin and painted a fairly dark aqua green behind the water area.

Brown backer very appropriate. I did the same for my recent Horse portrait. The Frame is perfect and makes a beautiful finish project.

I noted in your previous post, that you were cutting to fit a 8X10 frame. From this pic I can't tell how large the pattern is or what the panel size is, but if you used a whole sheet for an 8X10 frame you wasted a lot of valuble wood. I always try to pre plan what size I want the panel (8X10,11X14 or custom) and then trim my pattern (and possibly resizing as needed), to fit a pre cut panel. That way I can usually get as much excess wood to use for another poject. For examp0le you can cut two 8X10 panels fron one 12X19 1/2 panel. BTW, very nice cut on that sad faced pooch...looks like he wants a scratch behind his ear.

Agreeing with your wife, the Fretwork version is , to me, much more apealing as is is more "ARTSY", for lack of a better word. I think all of the multi-layered projects, including this one, are nice and have a certain attraction, but to me they are more of what I would think of as a nick-nack. Sit on a shelf only to be replaced by something else in time. I don't feel they do well as a wall hanging and are better suited to the use of a table top stand. I think your fretwork version, and as is true for many of the portraits/scenes cut by our members, when hung on somebody's wall, just like a beautiful canvas painting, would remain there for many years to come. BTW, both pieces are very well done including cut panel and the interesting and unusual frame consfigurations. Curious, were the frames done with a router or scroll saw and are they rabbited to allow insetting the panels?

Just a FYI. Looking at her site she does absolutly beautiful work. However, according to her site, even though you pay for the pattern it is not yours and she specifically states that her patterns can only be for personal use only and further states the cut products can not be sold. Those restrictions will make me shy away from using any of her patterns unless I plan to hang it in my own home.

Very well done. Any car guy will know what it is. However I have seen some cuts like this have the cars brand and model cut into the background somewhere. Helps with presentation when hung where non car guys might see it. Quick question. What is the standard photo frame sizes over there? Over here standard photo sizes are 8"X10" (20.32x25.40) and 11"x14" (23.94x35.56). When I can, I will try to size my panels to suit the standard frame unless the pattern will not allow it. I will often enlarge or reduce the pattern as needed to suit a standard Photo size. An 11"X14" is not that difficut to reach while cutting. I don't use paper sizes like our Letter (8 1/2 x11) or Tabloid (11X17) for portraits, as they are not quite as proportionaly appealing.

That is VERY VERY VERY nice. Great Job! She doesn't show that pattern on her site. How can it be obtained? I don't subcribe to that mag.

As others are doing I'm getting a early start on making some planned give aways for Christmas. I looked for a pattern that could be hung eiither inside or outside and found this S Good 7 1/2 x10 1/2 Merry Christmas/Cross/Oval that I felt fit that desire. I wanted to make six plaques for my neighbors and family, so I decided to attempt stack cutting. Cutting stacks of 3/4" and 1" was not difficult but was a lot slower than what I am used too. Also, dulls the blades real quick. The Oval is 1/2" Sanded Ply that I stack cut two at a time. I rought cut the oval with a #3 Pegs MGT blade staying on the waste side of the line and then used my bench mounted belt sander to true up the oval eliminating the typical marks from starting and stopping. The ovals were then sanded to a fine finish with 1500 grit paper. The Crosses are 1/4" thk BB Ply stack cut three at a time using a Pegas #1 MGT Blade. After cleanup the crosses were painted rattle can spray Hunter Green. The final coat had green glitter applied while still wet.. I did brake a small bit off in one of the stacks and had a beast of a time getting it out without destroying the stack. The paint and glitter hides the mess in one place. The words Merry Christmas is 1/8" BB Ply stack cut all six at one time using a Pegas #0 spiral blade. After clean up the Merry Christmas was paintd rattle can spray Bright Red. And Again, the final coat had red glitter applied while wet . Waiting for paint to dry and then glue to set takes a lot of time. I first glued the crosses to the ovals and then glued the words to the cross. After which I added a picture hanger on the back side and coated the entire assembled plaque with multiple coats of clear polyurethane. . Dusting the glitter onto the wet paint made it them sparkle and added another dimension to the plaques, but it is a messy job. I'm goning to have sparkles in my workshop forever .

Welcome from the East Coast of Central florida. I did a lot of woodworking when I lived in NC in my dedicated 24X30 Woodworking shop with all the major equipment. When I moved to Florida Had to give it all up. However, i'm able to make sawdust again, even if it is only a dustpan at a time, in my mini workshop with very limited equipment. Great people here in the Village with a wealth of knowledge and the willingness to share. Looking forward to see your work.

My Robin (my lady) likes your robin. Very nice!

Great job. That cut would take me a lot longer than 6 1/2 hours. Even though my Pegas has a lifting arm, I stll bottom feed because I can never get the blade to go through the work without kinking when threading down from the top. I think I would also leave as is. A nice custom made frame will make it a complete.

Welcome to the Village from the East Coast of Central Florida. Although I have completed a number of projects I'm relatively a newbie also. Only been at this for about 5 months. I also started with the Porter Cable Scroll Saw. It is a fairly good saw but has a tnedancy for the blade to wobble side to side, at least mine did, when starting which made it a little difficult to sart the cut exactly where you want it. After only a short time I decided to buy a better quality saw and got a 21" Pegas. I have two quick sugggestions. One buy yourself a LED lighted magnifyier lamp and get a foot operated on/off switch. Both will make scrolling a lot more enjoyable. Harbor Fraight sells a relatively inexpensive foot switch.

Very nice job.

S. Good 8X10 mutiple layer Pattern Modified. Three layers of 1/8 BB Ply. The pattern came with 4 layers, but I did not care for the 3rd layer. Seemed not to be needed Even my Lady said the same thing, so it wsn't just my opinion. All the cutouts in the Turtle completed with Pagus #0 spiral while all other areas cut with a Pagus #3 MGT. Then we both looked at it when it was just cut and in the natural wood we both said it needs to be painted. Did all painting using acrylic craft paints. Painting all the top layer holes in the Turtle was the hardest part of the project. Set in a store bought frame that can be wall hung on or use the table top stand.

Great project, your grandaughter should love it. JFYI, drawing velum, available at craft stores, makes good light difuser and is a little bit more durable than just printer paper and it won't yellow from the heat from the bulb. Would like to see a side view to see how you created the table stand and mounted the light. Thanks

Kevin, The "Pumkins" are cut from 1/2 X !2 X 12 Sanded Ply from patterns purchased from https://theholzbrothers.com/ ($3.79/downloadable). You can get any name of letter you want. Painted with rattel can orange and acrylic green for the stem. The "Happy Fall Y'All" is a Steve Good pattern. He gives you a small and a large pattern. I did the large approximately 12 X 11. I used 1/4 BB for the cut and afixed to 1/2" sanded ply backer painted dark brown. The Leaves were painted with acrylic craft paint. Applied a multi coats of polyurethane to make it suitable for outdoor use. HTH Frank

Very Very nice. Our Country will miss her!

You are absolutely correct...as I said you just can't fix stupid. When it gets on a roll it just keeps on going like the Energiser Bunny!

Made door hamging Pumpkins for the naeighbors on each side of me with their names in them, Then made a "Happy Fall Y'all" sign for the front of my house.

H. Botas pattern called Horse (not toooo imaginative name) resized slightly to suit a standard 11X14 frame. Cut from 1/8 BB Ply and affixed to a 1/8 BB Backer painted dark brown. Cut with Pagus #0 spiral blades (more than a few used). Panel set loose in a Custom made Poplar Frame stained with Minwax Early American. A fitting color, I thought, for the subject. This project had its fair share of "You Just Can't Fix Stupid" happenings. First after applying the shelf liner as normal I used spray adheasive to affix the pattern to the panel. It then sat on the bench for a few days while I finished up some other work, Now it was time to start cutting only to find I applied the pattern to the back (wood) side, not on top of the liner material. OK, so I cut it anyway as is. The bottom side with the liner on it did not cut clean and hung on to every fuzzie. Messy to say the least. Finished the cut and now had to remove the liner and the pattern. The liner came off fairly easy but in the busy areas it was hard to see if any liittle bits remained. I use clear liner I get at Walmart. Took a lot of time to make sure it was all off. Now it was time to remove the pattern. Used Mineral Sperits as some on here have said they use and yes it released the paper pattern but it was difficult to get all the adheasive off. The wood soaked up the MS and it took a few days to dry so it could be sanded. The remnant adheisive gummed up the sand paper and had to use a razor blade to scrape off the residue befor it could be finally sanded. Then I made the Frame. Needless to say "Stupid" just kept happening. Won't bore you with that story. This, what appeared to be a rather easy project, took about 4 extra days to complete. All in all I'm fairly happy with the final results, but I have to keep "Stupid" from taking it toll in the future.