FrankEV

I have a combination belt and disk sander. the belt is vertical and has a small table in front of the belt. The table can be adjusted fro 90 degrees to 45 degrees. With the table tiped down to 45 degrees I simply lay the panel on the table and move it side to side while gently sanding the edge to a sharp pinted edge. Kinda like sharpening a chisel on a grinder. Here is a couple of pics...sorry about the mess.

My shop is tiny! I do not have room for a floor stand drill press or even a heavy bench stand drill press. Up to this point I have simply been using a hand held drill for bits down to 1/16" dia, or for the very tiny holes, the small drill bits chuck mounted in a dedicated Dremel Tool, to make the blade access holes. Both are just used by hand holding the drill or Dremel Tool. I recently had an occasion to stack cut a total of four 1/4" layers (1" total) of solid oak. I found that in a number of cases where the hole was close to the cut line, it was not made perfectly perpendicular to the wood and therefore, was actually outside the cut line on the bottom layers. I don't do a lot of stack cutting and I guess I should be a lot more carefull. However even on thin panels, I have found that when small cut out areas are close together, if I did not hold the drill perpendicular to the wood, the hole angles off toward the side encroaching on the adjacent cut line. My question is what are those of you, that might be in my predicament, using for a drill press. Dremel makes a small drill press, but is seems the base is only about 6" square and it would not allow drilling pieces larger tha 6" wide. I have also reviewed a few of the You Tube videos on how to build a Dremel Drill press and they don't look to apealing.

A big THANK YOU is going out to Bernd (munzieb) who was willing to share the Hummingbird pattern for the lamp body side panels. My version is also made from solid Oak. Body Panels cut from 1/4x5 1/2 x 48 and the top and base was cut from 1/2x5 1/2x24. The Base and top are my design. The lamp body is 4 1/2" square by 10" tall. The base is 5 1/2" square x 1 1/2" tall. The Top is 5 1/2 Square x 1/2" tall. The vertical edges of the body panels were beveled to 45 degrees on my bench belt sander. All the mitering and chamfering done for the base and top was done on the table saw. I use a frame strap clamp during glue up to insure the base was square. I use the scrolll saw to cut the cutouts in at the bottom of the base sides before glue up. Like Bernd, I used amber plexiglass. However, I made the plexiglass more translucent by applying velum with sparay adhesive to the inside face. The electrical components consist of a 6 ft lamp cord with an inline rocker switch, short lamp pipe nipple, candlelabra socket and LED bulb. The top is loose fit for access to the bulb. I stack cut the four sides and used Pegas #3 MGT R Blades. Cutting the 1" thick stack was slow but not too difficult. After assembly and sanding, the lamp and the loose top was finished with many coats of clear gloss spray Lacquer. Made this lamp for my lady as she loves Hummingbirds. That makes two Hummingbird plaques, one Hummingbird framed piece and now this Hummingbird lamp . She is Happy.

They are both very nice. However, the Bear is more fun to view. I would guess most who decide to cut one will want to cut the other as well.

I obtained the SVG pattern from Following Daisies/Etsy and modified it to add the oval and sized it to fit inside an 8X10 panel. Although it looked like it would work, this pattern IS NOT intended to be completed on a scroll saw as it is listed for Cricut and Sihouette. I managed to cut it, but the details of the flowers and the hummingbirds wings were very delicate tapering to very fine points and very difficult to cut as the wood lost all rigidity as the cuts were completed. The cut panel is 5/32” Walnut solid core ply that I further stained with Minwax Walnut stain to enhance the contrast. The cut panel was affixed to a 1/8” BB Ply that was enhanced with a coat of Minwax Natural Stain and the panel finished with multiple coats of Clear High Gloss spray Lacquer. I attempted to use Pegas #2/0 spiral blade with poor results so after only a few cuts I switched to Pegas #1/0 MGT R which produced much better results. The panel is loose fit into a simple Pine Frame the I made and stained with the same Minwax Walnut stain and then protected with Clear Gloss spray Polyurethane. I am totally unhappy with the finish. The stain may not have been thoroughly dry when I applied the poly and it did not lay down flat and smooth. I intend to replace the Frame and only used it for the picture. I’m attaching a PDF of my completed pattern as a challenge to anyone who might like to attempt cutting it. If you do, please show it to us and add your thoughts. BTW I was making this for my Lady who loves Hummingbirds. Already have two others hanging and wanted to supprise her with this one. FollowingDaisies_Flowers_Hummingbird.pdf

I note a lot of you use the Duck Brand Shelf Liner. I've been using the clear Easy Liner (removable) brand from Wallmart at around $6 a roll. They alwasys seem to have a large supply on the shelf so I have only been buying 2 rolls at a time. The Easy Liner brand works well for me. Is there any special reason to use the Duck Brand?

Ditto on the Awesome! What is your blade of choice for cutting this kind of font? I did just five words, stack cut two layers for a toaal of ten, in a similar (if not the same) font for a sign I made. The caps were about 2 1/2 " tall. It took me a lot of time to cut and the cut quality, although useable, was not the best. I admire your skill.

More amazing work...not much more I can add to what others have said.

Absolutely stunning. I love eagles and have cut a bunch but mine are flat and framed. I took a class on carving many years ago, Even purchased a vey expensive high quality carving tool set. Havn't ever been able to create a thing with it.. If I can't do it mechanically (like scrolling to someone elses pattern) I just can't make anything. I was a design engineer for over 30 years and always needed a strightedge or french curve to even produce a line.

True scrolling and carving art taken to a new high level. Very humbleing. Some, like you sir, have true talent, others, like me, just do the best we can and hope someone likes it a little.

Lots of great work done in only one morning. It would take me a few days just to cut all the words and the image nevermind painting the cuttings and gluing the assembly as well as building and stainimg the frame. Paint and glue dry time would eat up most of my morning. The rhyme is very tasteful.

This is an Alex Fox pattern I resized slightly to fit a 10X17 Panel. The cut panel is 5/32” Maple solid core plywood affixed to a 1/4” BB backer. The Backer was painted with a combination of wet coats of Black and Dark Green spray in an attempt to add a slight green tint to the background color. Did not quite get the effect I was looking for as the Black was dominant. The finished panel was finished with multiple coats of spray clear gloss Lacquer. The cut was done with Pegas #0 and #1 spiral blades. The cutting was relatively easy although a lot of the cut pattern consists of a many very small repetitive shaped cuts and therefore, I found, a little boring. However, the completed cut, I feel, turned out nice and very unique. The panel is set loose in a custom made poplar frame that I stained with Minwax Ebony stain and protected with multiple coats of clear gloss Polyurethane. The following pics were taken with two different lighting conditions. The first photo is more true color.

Now that is a realy nice, well done and very unique finished project. Love the spalted Oak Frame.

Very nice. My lady would love it as she loves humingbirds. I've aready cut 3 Humingbird plaques for her. What is the orange tranlucent material you used? Could you post a link to that Pinterest pattern. Would be much appreciated.

You maight want to try a lacquer sanding sealer before sanding and finishing with the lacquer. I use it on soft wood like pine.

Brown. Great cut.

Cute!! Very Cute. Bet it was quite a chore cutting that hat fuzz on the Scroll saw!

Dick, Not sure where I got them from but it is not typeable font. It is a series of individual SGV files (numerals and Upper/Lower case letters called Handwritten. It is nice because you can place the letters where you want them and they are editable in Inkscape. For example I had to stretch the "dot" in the"i" so it was not an island.. Here is a zip file: Handwritten.zip Enjoy. Show us your creation.

Velly interesting!!! Well done.

To me this was not a picture, just a play on what I think of as a FLORIDA Winter Wonderland. Most of the Winter Wonderland patterns I found had snow flakes and pine trees, which was not very appropriate for a Florida welcoming sign. Anyone who might like to have the pattern just has to ask. I put it together in Inkscape. Anything can replace the Palm trees.

You did good!

Hey Dan, Welcome to the Village from a little South of you on the East Coast of Central Florida. Better save those pennies fast as you will want to get a decent saw as soon as possible. This is a great hobby but even more great when you use the right tools and a good quality saw. This is a good place to learn and meet great people

Mr Pete (I prsume). Welcome to the village from across the pond on the East Coast of Central Florida, USA. Lots to learn here and you will enjoy a group of great people, even your country mate Brenda (Foxfold).

Your grandaughters wll love them. Nice clean cutting. Material looks thin...what is it? Was stack cutting not an option?

Tony, hope you don't mind me jumping onto your thread. Just thought I would just add my 8" dia version from the original pattern unmodified. Cut panel is 5/32" Maple solid core ply affixed to a 1/2" thk sanded ply backer. Too large and heavy to be a real tree onament so I just made it a plaque that will be hung on a wall when I decorate for christmas. I used some Red, Green and Black Acrylic Craft paint to add some color. Cut with Pegas #0 Spiral blades and finished with multiple coasts of clear gloss Polyurethane as it may be hung outside. I can see in the pic my cutting is not as good as Tony's. I think I hurried a little too much. However, when viewed from a distance it looks OK. Thanks to meflick for posting up the link to the Pattern. I sure others will jump on this pattern and cut their version.