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FrankEV

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Everything posted by FrankEV

  1. Good golly, you ruined the whole piece, darn, and it was looking soooo good. Good job and nice cut, If you hadn't said anything no one would have ever noticed. And, BTW, that is what makes yours special and differnt from any other's cutting of this pattern.
  2. My Contractor table saw is easy to move and I can pull it away from the wall far enough to cut project panels and such. I take it ouside to do long rip cuts or cut large pieces of Ply. I tend to use the saw as a work surface to do finishing work with a drop cloth covering the table.
  3. A small electric heater designed to be used in a workshop. When temps are in the 40's. it takes about an hour to bring it up to a comfortable temp to work in. If it drops much below 40, I just skip a day and the temps will bounce back up. Not often here in Florida will the temps stay below the 40's. No possible A/C. Power suppy not adequate and no wall space for one. I work early mornings with door open and a fan on. Bought one of those portable personel cooling units that uses ice to cool the air and the fan operates on USB voltage (about 5 volts I think). Havn't used it yet but the high temps will be back in a couple of months. Should add a few hours a day of work time.
  4. Thanks. Thought maybe you and others might want to see the whole 8' X 12' shop: Looking in the front double door. You can see I don't have to walk very far between work stations. The shelf across the rear wall has a bunch of my extra Motorcycle parts. These will probably be relocated to my storage unit when I need the space for more wood working stuff. Right side. Light wood storage on shelf, lots of clamps, hand tools, etc. Left side. Ive had that narrow work bench for about 40 years. Top shel has a bunch of portable power tools in their cases. Lower shelf for all those small items you reach for, for every project. My home made Router table. The wood tool chest was inherited from my father who got it from my grandfather. Probably near a hundred years old. The battery in the back corner is for my box trailer and is on a battery tender There is alittle Echo Dot out of the pick just above the plugs. that lets me listen to my Sirius/XM. My Sanding station on a home made roll around cabinet. The yellow motor with wand is a slow speed carving setup that I currently have a sanding mop installed. Works great to get the furries off the back of cuttings. A few hand saws hang on the wall behind the station and a little plastic drawer cabinet for small picture hangers and such mounted in the back corner. My Dremel area with my upside down dremel drill press and separate dremel with wand for using high speed carving bits. After drilling blade holes I use the wand with a small ball carving bit to taper each hole on the back side of the cut to make threading the blade easier. I generate a lot of sawdust with hand tools (drils, sanders, small routers, etc.) on the work bench, so the drag aroung vac hose will be very nice to keep the area clean. Contractor table saw with a small pancake compressor in corner, used for pin nailer and air duster nozzle. When I have to rip long pieces or cut large panels, I move the saw outside onto the paving in front of the shed. Then it easy to clean up the generated saw sust with my leaf blower. Another view of my Pegas saw setup. Those are blade storage test tubes with caps in a flat board mounted to the side of the stand. Very convienent reach. The flooring material you can see in this photo needs to be replaced. Used a cheap thin stick down vinyl material that is not sticking well. Rain comes in the doos while ';m working weting the floor and with the high summer temps,the floring material is lifiting. I need to replace with a more durable permanently secured material. Next Spring's project. Unfortunately as you can see I have no wall space to hang any of nmy work.
  5. I was in thed process of replying to you when SVV went off line. I did purchase on of those personal cooling devices last year after the end of the very hot days. I haven't tried it yot but plan to do so when the hot temps return. I'm hoping it will give me a few more hours a day when the temps are way up there.
  6. If you have room to set it up in a corner all you would need to do is make some movable framed walls lined with sound atenuating insulation to enclose the unit. Add hinges to the walls to allow them to swing away to acces the unit for emptying the collection bag. The overall height of the unit is only about 5 feet so the enclosure would need a top also. But don't forget it would need a small vent to the ouside where the air can excape.
  7. East Coast of Central Florida. I have a small heater designed for workshop use that will take the chill off the low 40 degree temps, rather quickly, for those few days of the year we have "winter". The bigger problem is the High 90 degree days we get in the middle of our "looooong summers". I usually have to work very early in the mornings with doors sopen and a fan running, quitting by 10 or 11 AM when it gets unbearable. AC is not an option.
  8. I only have two 90 degree situations, all other turns are smooth large radius done with the hose itself. One 90 is at the bottom of the 2 1/2 vertical drop where it tansitions to 4" just inside the wll of the workshop. this spot has the maximum suction as it is just a few feet to the dust colector itself. The other is at the top of that same vertical drop where I Teed the 2 1/2 in each direction. Again just a shot vertical to the run to the dust collector. Also not I used clear hose most places so a blockage will be easily seen. That being said, you are correct that I do need to watch to make sure I don't get any blockages.
  9. FrankEV

    Grumps

    Welcome to the Village from East Coast of Central Florida from FrankEV another Grumps. I was only 40 when my first grandson was born. At that time I said I was much too young to be called a grandfather, eventhough I sleep with a grandmother, so I said just call me Grumps. It stuck and my kids and grandkids still call me Grumps. However, that monika stays within the family. Here I'm just...
  10. I’ve mentioned before that my workshop is a small 8’ x 12’ Resin Suncast shed purchased from Lowes. I also have a previously installed 7’ x 10’ Resin Suncast shed that is for my garden equipment. The back of my workshop shed is about six inches from the side of the garden equipment shed. Sawdust control has become a problem in the work shop. I only have 4 machines in my shed. Between my scroll saw, router, sander and table saw I have been generating way tooooo much sawdust and it was getting impossible just to sweep to keep the shop clean. My small shop vacuum was filling up the bag quickly and was not very practical to get in and around the equipment stations and work bench. A dust collection system seemed to be a necessary investment. Since my shop is small there was no room to install a dust collector inside the shop, so I decided that I would look for a system I could install in the garden equipment shed and run the collection piping and a remote switch through the walls into the workshop. Locating the Dust Collector remotely in the garden equipment shed reduces the noise of the loud dust collector in the workshop. I also did not want to spend a lot of money for a system, so after some Google searches and a lot of research, I decided to purchase a Woodstock International Shop Fox model W1727 1 HP Dust Collector that was recommended for 3 machines for about $450. Since my shop is so small I figured it would be good for my 4 machines and a drag around hose.. Four inch diameter hose was used to connect the Shop Fox through the walls into the workshop where the interconnection hoses was reduced to 2 1/2” diameter throughout the workshop. This is the hose between the sheds wrapped with foil sided tape for protection. The switch wire also under the tape wrap. This is the tansition from 4" to 2 1/2" inside the workshop. m I removed the On/Off switch that came mounted on the Shop Fox motor and relocated the switch to inside the Workshop. A twist lock male plug was installed in the gem box on the motor where the switch was and a female plug attached to the wire coming from the relocated switch. This prevents the connection from becoming dislarged due to vibration. There is a blast door at each machine so only one inlet at a time will be operated when the machine is operated. I also added a fifth blast door for a 1 1/4” dia. drag around hose for shop cleanup of sawdust generated by portable tools like palm sanders,Dremel carving tools and trim routers. This is to the back of the disk/belt sander. This is the connection to my router table. There is also a lower inlet in the back from the box below that cannot be seen. This is the connection to the back of my contracto table saw. This is the connection to the Pegas and the drag around hose. I made a collection box for under the Pegas table. Although I have not used the system for actual machine operations yet, I have tested the system and it seems to be working just as exspected. Plenty of suction and the Dust Collector can be barely heard. The air flow at an inlet is louder that the sound of the remotely located motor. Not sure if I will run it continuously while scrolling. Might turn it on when dust and pieces collect in the box below the table. The hoses, fittings (i.e.; Tee, Wyes, Blast Gates), hose clamps (lots of hose clamps) and hose mountings added about another $250 to the cost of the system. It took about 16 hours over three days to install the complete system. Hope this was not too boring and possible useful information for any one consdidering a small dust collector system. EDIT 1/14/21: There is a tour of my shop in a reply to Ken toward the bottom of this post.
  11. Great job. Love all his songs, but really like the lyrics to 'Don't Mess Around With Jim'.
  12. That's an awsome cut and presentation. The Frame makes a great job even better.
  13. Well done and cute...the best acalades I can come up with.
  14. Very nice. Not sure what your plans are for displaying it, but I could see it made into a very nice night light. If you made a round box about 2" deep with a backer, a little velum or colored plexiglass behind the cut out, a small socket w/ LED buld and a nice solid wood base....,"wal la", a night light for your daughter.
  15. Everyone has said it already, but it is worth repeating...great cutting. Those spirals work great once you get used to them. The subject is beautiful but the pattern itself is very busy. It took me quite a few minutes before I actually saw the second cub below mamas jaw. You said you still had to stain and finish the panel so, and this is only my suggestion, you might want to consider selectively highlighting the lion and cubs and/or jpossibly just darken the background a tad to enhance the viewability of the piece.
  16. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Columbia-Forest-Products-1-4-in-x-1-ft-x-1-ft-7-in-Walnut-PureBond-Plywood-Project-Panel-2-Sided-10-Pack-5159/313817256 5/32" also available as well as many other wood verieties. I like the combination of Maple and walnut for many of my projects.
  17. That is very classy and a great gift. Well cut!
  18. I ditto Dan.
  19. YES. Apply the stain liberally. Let it sit for 15 - 20 min. Wipe off. Let dry. Add another coat the same way if you want it to be even more dark. Repeat as necessary. I use walnut ply project panels I get from Home Depot and stain them with the Minwax Walnut stain. Then the panel is real dark and the contrast is beautiful. The backer you show looks like Luan. IMHO, too grainy and detracts from the cutting. A better choice, if you don't have better material, would be to use BB ply and paint with a very dark brown paint. Would be almost as good as a stained Walnut poanel. Look at my "R and Hummingbirds" I made for Robin:
  20. Your Sharon and my Robin must be kindrid spirits. They both love hummingbirds. I've already made a bunch for Robin. I like that pattern an I like the cutting you did of it. Very well done. I think I have it downloaded to do one of these days. If you darken that backer a little bit more the cutting will really pop.
  21. Beautiful job. Great subject. What is the panel size and was that 3 at 1/4" of 3 at 1/8"? To me, that seems to be a large blade for such an intricate cut, but if a 3/4" stack I guess I can see why.
  22. NOPE! And BTW, I'm Frank, not Les! IMHO, an Artist has the ability to CREATE the Art in the first place in whatever form. A Craftsman can mechanicaly COPY, PRODUCE and/or INTERPRET that Art in other mediums. If it is duplicaed in the same medium, and an exact copy, it is called forgery. As an example, an Artist paints a wonderful painting. A craftsman can make a beautiful lithograph of that painting. Both result in Art but the Craftsman is not the Artist. Let me say that these are only MY definitions and my belief what the difference between the two is. PS: I guess my ability to draw (as in drafting) could be loosely mean I could be considered an Artist as what I created was an original product. However, even then my work was not a creative endevor as my drafting skills was just replicating physical objects and interpretations of various data inputs on paper. Much like how Inkscape can, using the Trace Bitmap command can reproduce a photo file, computers do many othe drafting work today. I don't consider a computer an Artist.
  23. Love your work. The wood slabs are beautiful, but how are you preventing them from splitting. I did wood turning in my real woodworking days ahd tried to do turnings with cross cut wood blocks/logs only to have them split over time even after they had been dried slowly for a long time. Nearly impossible to prevent. I also know that Burl has a lot of internal stress and tends to crack and split due to those stresses. Are you applying a backer and what are you using?
  24. I don't consider myself an artist because I have to rely on others to "CREATE" the art. My whole working career involved drawing (drafting actualy) but always needed a straightedge and compass. I can't draw freehand, in any form, for a lick. I'm quite decent at doing the mechanical work such as doing the cutting, or making frames, etc. and, I'm even learning to work a little in Inkscape to modify others work when needed. The painting I'm experimenting with is more like "Painting by Numbers" as all I do is fill in the blanks. Learning to mix colors is more logic than art. I'm very greatful that my scroll work is often touted as being nice and sometimes the end result considered "art", so I do not consider mysel an Artist but rather I do consider myself a fairly skilled, but still learning, "craftsman". Thanks
  25. This project had two goals. First it was an experiment in presentation. The 10” x 16” cut panel is 1/8” BB Ply painted flat black after cutting. The backer is a 12” x 17” 1/4” BB Ply that was left natural except for the colored pattern that was hand painted with Acrylic Craft Paints. The glued up panel was further finished with multiple coats of Clear Gloss Spray Lacquer. The oversized backer creates a matted effect when placed in the Frame. The custom frame is made from Red Oak that was enhanced with Minwax Red Oak stain and finished with multiple coats of Wipe-On-Poly. This rather simple pattern was a free decal stencil that was found online that I converted to a scroll saw Pattern in Inkscape. I cut the panel in less than two hours with a Pegas #1 MGT R blade. Second, in addition to the presentation experiment my intention was to provide the members a simple pattern for those who might be interested in attempting to make a colored fretwork piece. A very inexpensive set with a variety of color Acrylic Craft Paints and a few cheap artist brushes will get you started. I know we have some budding artist, often the Scroller’s spouse, out there who has already added color to some pieces. For those, this would be a piece of cake. I’ll be uploading both the pattern and the original color version to the Pattern Library for those who may wish to give it a try. Just a little hint for those who haven’t done any painting like this is: You start with light tints and build up in layers to the finished darker tints letting each layer to dry completely before adding the next layer. This makes shading effects easier to accomplish. And JFYI, I don’t pretend to be an expert or even an artist as I’m actually just experimenting, practicing and learning myself. Here is the original artwork:
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