FrankEV
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Everything posted by FrankEV
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Well Done. I presume Shadow was the Bunny's name. The projected heart is a nice touch. Nice way for her to remeber. She will love it,
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Poplar is probably about 2X the price of pine but there is a number grades of pine from the one with lots of knots to a premium grade clear of knots. Look on the Lowes Website to do a comparison. Considered a Hardwood, Poplar is much harder but much less so then say Oak. The Poplar I get from Lowes is quite stable and not as suceptable to warping, the grain is much tighter and, yes, much less likely to break. I've cut a"many hole" pattern in 3/4" thick Poplar and never had anything break unless I cut it toooooo close (my fault not the woods'.). Biggest propblem with Poplar is that the grain color is not very pretty and varies from a tan/grey to green in color. Great if the piece will be painted but not the best for a stained piece.
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Great Cutting, but....Shhhhh, you never admit to breaking a piece if it can be glued back in . Others mentioned cutting Poplar. Yes it is a good choice as long as the finish project is going to be painted. The green wood tones in Poplar are not very atractive. Believe it or not, a nice pice of Red Oak will cut very nicely for parojects like this and will really finish well.
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Great work for a first project. Dan mentioned using printer paper of velum on the inside to make it look a little more finished. I totally agree. Another choice is to put some 1/8" thk colored plexiglass inside. It would add a lot to the project. I'm attaching a photo of a lamp I did a while ago to give you some idea. You can find the Plexiglass on line.
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Extremely nice. Bill will love it. I'm ex Navy 2 year wonder, way back in early 60's. But it still gets me a 10% discount at Lowes Obviously you have been away - or maybe just lurkimng - from SVV as I had not seen any of your posts since I joined about 5 months ago until recently. Maybe the saw just kept you away from the computer, but in any case, my complements on your craftsmanship. it is very very nice. I consider myself a newbe and I am allways amazed at what others, like yourself, have a done. Thanks for shareing once again.
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You got a theme going on there...very nice work. The detail in the gun and holster is really nice.
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Just wondering if, by any chance, you might edit your original post to add a little description under each photo of what we are looking at? It is a very interesting end result, but I'm not sure what I'm looking at in the photos along the way. Also, again just wondering, what was your reasoning for chosing to use a fabric as a backer?
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Great work and a great piece to remember Brody. Nice cutting on the Rose...quick mount it on a backer so it dosen't get broken. -
Great work...a very interesting unusual process. I love that I'm seeing more of us doing projects with color. There is a lot to say about simple B&W scroll saw projects but a little (or in this case a lot of ) color adds a lot to a project.
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Very nice work.
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Nice cutting. Good trick with the washer.
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Great job, the other half will love it. I'm with you also, solid wood would look much better. I hate seeing the exposed edges of plywood. I like a lot of Steves Patterns for the scroll work, but I'm not fond of the hole and peg joinery he uses in many of his patterns like tins one. If I was to make a tray like this out of solid wood I would use mitered corners and support tne bottom in a daddo cut into the sides or daddo the bottom for the sides to sit in. Plenty of glue surface that would never come apart. And, I'm sure I could come up with a better ooking design for the feet at the corners.
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I did a full start to finish write up of this project under Works In Progress & Tutorials.
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I think it is just beautiful and well cut. The addition of color and the jewel is awsume. The use of color was really appropriate in this case.
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Yep, very nice cutting. Please do show us what you finally wind up doing with it.
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WElcome to the Village from the East Coast of Central Florida.
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That is too much work...dump in any flowing stream, lake, ocean or even dispersed by a fertilizer spreader on the lawn would be OK with me.
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JFYI. If you do not purchase a Urn from the Creamatory, you will receive the ashes in a cardboard box with the Ashes in a heavy plastic bag (At theat is how I received my Wifes). The heavy shipping box I received my wifes ashes in was about 8" x 8" x 8" and quite heavy. So basically any appropriatly sized and strength box would work but if there is an intent to bury the Urn, a wood box will probably not be allowed. Each State has rules about the kind of Urn that is allowed for burial that is why they are usually ceramic of some kind.
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You may have possibly misunderstood the answers herein. Red pattern lines are against a white background, not black.. When possible, if the cut areas are filled in with light grey, it makes it easier to distinquish the area to be removed. Often this is most important on busy, multi holed, patterns. Many patterns that are available in a photo file format (JPG or PNG) or PDF's are provided in Black lines, or in some cases totaly black areas that are to be cut. A program like Inkscape can be used to convert these black line patterns into scaleable patterns with the linework in red. That being said, not evereyone but many of us can see blade against the red ( I use a pinkish red) lines better than black lines.
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Assistance provided: Elements.pdf
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I find RED to be easier to work with. When I can, I rework the pattern in Inkscape a make the cutout area a very light gray and make the outlines a slightly less red color than the bright red and make the line thickness a thin as posssible. I find I have to often cut with the blade edge against the line instead of splitting the line because the cut out areas are so close together in many hole patterns. The thin red line allows me to do this more easily.
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The bits I get from Artcrafters will easily drill through 3/4" thick material. Just make sure you don't push the bit all the way into the chuck leaving about 7/8" projecting. With my set up, that works fine and I do not break the bits.
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In the upside down position allow about 1 1/2 to 2 inches from the bottom of the vertical post to the surface the panel will sit on. My self was just a little to low by about 1" and I had to cut off a piece of the post in order to allow thick panels to slip under the post. To clarify, I would say the underside of the mount surface should be about the height of the drill press plus 2 inches above the surface the panel will lay on. When I drill a panel I adjust the drill press so the bit is about a 1/4" above the cut panel that is set on a drill backer and set the stop so the bit will not punch into the table top. Also, if you can shine a light on the table top where the drill press is, it will help a lot in lining up the bit above the small cut outs.
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Can't you read dots?
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You should never admit to doing something wrong that no one but you would know about. You can say something like: "The backer color did not quite turn out the way I had hoped", or, "Tried a different color for the backer...not sure I lkie it". You never know, others might like it!
