FrankEV

Very nice work.

Nice cutting. Good trick with the washer.

Great job, the other half will love it. I'm with you also, solid wood would look much better. I hate seeing the exposed edges of plywood. I like a lot of Steves Patterns for the scroll work, but I'm not fond of the hole and peg joinery he uses in many of his patterns like tins one. If I was to make a tray like this out of solid wood I would use mitered corners and support tne bottom in a daddo cut into the sides or daddo the bottom for the sides to sit in. Plenty of glue surface that would never come apart. And, I'm sure I could come up with a better ooking design for the feet at the corners.

I did a full start to finish write up of this project under Works In Progress & Tutorials.

I think it is just beautiful and well cut. The addition of color and the jewel is awsume. The use of color was really appropriate in this case.

Yep, very nice cutting. Please do show us what you finally wind up doing with it.

WElcome to the Village from the East Coast of Central Florida.

That is too much work...dump in any flowing stream, lake, ocean or even dispersed by a fertilizer spreader on the lawn would be OK with me.

JFYI. If you do not purchase a Urn from the Creamatory, you will receive the ashes in a cardboard box with the Ashes in a heavy plastic bag (At theat is how I received my Wifes). The heavy shipping box I received my wifes ashes in was about 8" x 8" x 8" and quite heavy. So basically any appropriatly sized and strength box would work but if there is an intent to bury the Urn, a wood box will probably not be allowed. Each State has rules about the kind of Urn that is allowed for burial that is why they are usually ceramic of some kind.

You may have possibly misunderstood the answers herein. Red pattern lines are against a white background, not black.. When possible, if the cut areas are filled in with light grey, it makes it easier to distinquish the area to be removed. Often this is most important on busy, multi holed, patterns. Many patterns that are available in a photo file format (JPG or PNG) or PDF's are provided in Black lines, or in some cases totaly black areas that are to be cut. A program like Inkscape can be used to convert these black line patterns into scaleable patterns with the linework in red. That being said, not evereyone but many of us can see blade against the red ( I use a pinkish red) lines better than black lines.

Assistance provided: Elements.pdf

I find RED to be easier to work with. When I can, I rework the pattern in Inkscape a make the cutout area a very light gray and make the outlines a slightly less red color than the bright red and make the line thickness a thin as posssible. I find I have to often cut with the blade edge against the line instead of splitting the line because the cut out areas are so close together in many hole patterns. The thin red line allows me to do this more easily.

The bits I get from Artcrafters will easily drill through 3/4" thick material. Just make sure you don't push the bit all the way into the chuck leaving about 7/8" projecting. With my set up, that works fine and I do not break the bits.

In the upside down position allow about 1 1/2 to 2 inches from the bottom of the vertical post to the surface the panel will sit on. My self was just a little to low by about 1" and I had to cut off a piece of the post in order to allow thick panels to slip under the post. To clarify, I would say the underside of the mount surface should be about the height of the drill press plus 2 inches above the surface the panel will lay on. When I drill a panel I adjust the drill press so the bit is about a 1/4" above the cut panel that is set on a drill backer and set the stop so the bit will not punch into the table top. Also, if you can shine a light on the table top where the drill press is, it will help a lot in lining up the bit above the small cut outs.

Can't you read dots?

You should never admit to doing something wrong that no one but you would know about. You can say something like: "The backer color did not quite turn out the way I had hoped", or, "Tried a different color for the backer...not sure I lkie it". You never know, others might like it!

Neat, very neat. All the Dragon lovers out there would love to have that hanging in their den (pun intended).

Absolutely beautiful. Had to look up what Mandalas are..hope your dreams are fulfilled!

Great job on both! Just wish her patterns were available for purchase without restrictions of use. And wondering if all those little holes on the bee's head was actually cut on the Scroll saw or just drilled holes? Hard to tell in the photo.

Interesting subject and nice cutting. Decals are not always easy to convert to Scroll saw patterns. However, the coloration of the cut panel leaves something to be desired. Not sure what kind of Plywood you used or if you stained it, but IMHO, a nice clear BB Ply or something like a Maple solid core ply would have provided a better contrast. Cut panel grain can both improve the product or can detract. To me. it seems to detract in this case.

Things happen, and they did in a big way, in my second attempt at a fretwork/sculptured project. The pattern is Owl by Seyit that I modified to suit an 11”x14” panel and adjusted for carving. The panel ‘started out’ as a piece of 3/4”x11”x14” and the pattern was cut with Pegas #1 spiral blades. The many-hole cutting itself was quite time consuming as the pattern has many very close together cut outs and required very slow cut speeds. After completing the scroll work I attempted to lower the background using a small trim router and a router sled to create a uniform lowering. I was removing 1/4” of material and as I moved across the piece the panel began to warp, causing the cut depth to vary, making the surface uneven. I stopped and when I returned to the shop the next morning, I found the panel had flattened out and I was able to clean up the uneven cuts. I was close to being finished when, in attempt to clean up a remaining small area, I proceeded to put a big, unrepairable, gouge in the panel. In order to try to save the scroll work I cut away the background from the image area. I then proceeded to do the necessary carving and painting of the image before affixing it to a 1/4” backer that I embellished with some colored work. The Frame is just pine with a detail trim strip, stained with a Minwax water based stain called Royal Pine that turned out to be very ‘Blue’ and not the color I was looking for. I added the gold color to the beading with Acrylic Craft paint and then finished it with Minwax water based Polycrylic clear satin protective finish. The water based products do dry much faster but I don’t think I will be using this system in the future. Every project is a learning process, and boy, did I learn a bunch with this one!

Very nicely done. You handled those thin cuts very well. That Botas pattern is really unique.

Excelent work. Very nice cutting. Wondering what the frame is?

There are a zillion individual type "corner/45 degree" clamps available. All work to some extent, some better than others. I had a bunch that I used to use for making various woodworking projects when I had my full blown shop a while back. However, even though they can be used for making simple picture frames they are cumbersom, hard to set up quickly while glue is drying, do not ensure there is even pressure all around and are not necessarilly self squaring. The opposite being true is what makes the SEDY so good. Of course you are very correct, no matter what kind of clamping you use, to get good clean, neat looking, joints the miters have to be dead on. But that was the subjectr of other posts...Re: miter saws.

I tried a couple of mini chucks from different sources. The 3 split chucks do not work well. However, the Dremel 4 split chuck does work but only works in a Dremel. I posted the following a few months ago and it has worked very well since: The Dremel drill press as is, because of it is only 3" from the bit to the post, is imparactical to use for drilling blade holes in almost any fretwork larger than 6" wide. However, I had the idea in my head I could do something to make it work and Home Depot near me had the Dremel Drill Press/Tool Station in stock for $45. I took a chance (knowing I could return it if I could not make it work) and bought it this morning. After I got it home and did some investigating how I could make it work the light bulb lit up in my brain and this was the result. There is a shelf above my workbench that was just the correct height to allow me to mount the base upside down. I slid the Drill press body on the post opposite of what is normal. The press can be rotated around the post allowing it to be swung out of the way if necessary. I use a piece of 1/4" ply as a drill backer and set the stop so the bit will not punch into the workbench top. Very easy to locate the bit ove the point where the hole is needed. From the bit to the wall is about 11" so as positioned it can accomodate panels up to about 22" wide.